I've learned to buy nice brushes (Purdy seems to be a good brand). Crappy brushes just make the process more difficult. Nice paint is also key for good coverage and later wear and tear. I also cover my paint tray with plastic wrap, but then I put it in the fridge to keep the paint wet. I let the tray "defrost" for about an hour before I start painting from it again. I do the same thing with my paint rollers (wrap them in plastic wrap, stick them in the fridge) if I need to continue using the same color the next day. Of course, I was lucky enough to have the time to paint our house before we moved into it, which meant a nearly empty fridge for storage.

OH, AT, these are really great!

Ditto sucrek on the Purdy brushes. I've painted every room in the last two houses we've owned, but just learned my best tip a couple of years ago. When using latex, get your brush wet w/ water, shake out the excess, and start painting. The water at the base of the bristles keeps the paint from gumming up the brush. Makes it easier to clean, too. I think you can do the same w/ oil base, but use mineral spirits instead of water, of course.

I've never had good results with those edgers. In your picture you can see the my problem. The cut in isn't straight, you still need a paint brush to get to the edge.

Edger tools suck. All of them.
Learn to cut freehand for the best results, its faster too.

i tried to get away from the tape, but i agree with the edgers, they just did not do the trick. interesting about the plastic wrap though! going to try that tonight when i go to the new house to paint. thanks!

Another great tip I learned here is to place all your wrapped paint stuff (I just used plastic bags instead of plastic wrap) into the fridge if you have to leave your paint to dry overnight. It's an air tight container.

I will occasionally paint from the can (e.g., for touch ups), but normally pour paint from the can into a "cut cup" or other disposable container, or paint from the roller tray (if rolling). This reduces the risk of contaminating the paint in the can with dust or debris; prevents the paint in the can from drying out; and provides a surface to tap the brush to load the paint.

I've never used an "edger" but I'm a big fan of using a putty knife to avoid the ceiling, and an angled Purdy brush to cut in around baseboards and door jambs.

I have also used sucrek's "fridge" method, though frequently, we use the freezer. Luckily, latex paint doesn't freeze!

I have found the more time you spend masking the room the quicker and easier the painting goes. The more you mask off the less you have to worry about accurate cutting in. Another good investment is a razor blade scraper (I am not sure of the correct name.) to scrape extra paint off of windows.

I prefer freehand edging. It always works better for me than taping.

Just don't try to edge when you're exhausted.

I wish I had these types 6 walls ago. I went on my own with no training, and I am still correcting the mistakes ... blerg.

Another article with good timing AT!

I am going to paint my bathroom this weekend. This is my frist time painting this room. Do I have to move the toilet to get behind it or is there a brush I can use?

Stupid question, but I'm new at this! Thanks.

Thank you! I need this! Keep the tips comin'! (Any advice on choosing paint type? When you're not entirely sure what is on the walls presently?)

A good angled brush with a short handle and a little practice is all you need for edging. I have stopped using painters tape all together and have found it to be a quick accurate and easy way to get straight edges.

I freehand by trim. Just have a damp rag near by. Put your fingernail or a scraper inside the rag and clean off any paint on the trim. Do this when the paint is still wet of course. Great for getting at real tough spots.

I tend to prep before I buy my paint, then I dont jump the gun on my prepwork.

I go buy my prep supplies and find a couple of paint chips or samples i want to decide on, and by the time I'm finished prepping i know what paint to get.

I am a taper, white masking tape sucks. I highly recommend the blue masking tape, easy to put down, easy to see, and comes off in one piece.

Don't cheap out on the paint, it will only cost you more. I like Lowe's Valspar. I have been very pleased with my projects: http://siera104.com/projects/MasterBedroom.html and http://siera104.com/Decor/office.html

I will have to try your wet paint brush trick peggyb!

fledgling: When choosing the right type of paint, I would suggest talking the staff at the paint store. I usually go to a actual paint shop (like Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore) rather than Home Depot because the staff gives you more attention. Also, I learned that the color mixing machines are not frequently recalibrated at the the big box stores, so colors can be slightly off.

In general, you can use latex paint for most purposes. If the walls have a glossier paint on them you might want to use a bonding primer first. If the walls or trim have oil based paint, you have to use oil based over it OR sand/prime before using latex over it. Try to stick with latex and low VOC if you can -- you will make your life easier.

As for the edger tools, I know it's controversial. I personally like them because it is neat and quick. I usually have to go back with a small brush and touch up some of the edges because the results are not perfect.

But I do agree, that as a purist you should only cut in using nice angled brushes. I just don't always feel like being a purist!

I like the edger tools. But I'm not terribly nit-picky. And I've had really bad taping experiences. Those edgers just save a heap of time.

But I'm pretty sure I have crappy brushes, and I'm pretty lazy. So, there ya go.

you actually don't need to put your wrapped rollers in the fridge. i've done both, in the fridge and in the garage (in the summer). paint was still wet and ready to go 3 days later. In the fridge one time it dripped out of the end so i've been barred from putting anything but food in our new one.

Another tip for ceilings...DO NOT PAINT DIRECTLY OVER YOUR HEAD. but perhaps this is just common sense. :)

dupontgirl - something like this should work and I think all hardware/paint stores have them. http://www.amazon.com/Shur-Line-7110-2-Inch-Trimmer-24-Inch/dp/B00004Z4HF/ref=pd_cp_hi_2

Ditto zooee on the paint can plastic spout at Lowe's. Simple, easy.

We don't bother taping anymore. It takes me way less time to just slowly paint a cautious line with an angled brush than to tape everything off first and then paint similarly cautiously. Also we have never had much luck (a) preventing paint from bleeding under the tape a little anyway, and (b) removing the tape without removing any paint.

I'm not sure I understand the nail/hammer trick. I must not have my thinking cap on today.

I am a tape proponent myself. I just find it so much less stressful than trying to do edges without it.

I love the tip about the craft paper on the floor. I am definitely using that one next time I paint (my bedroom is soon to get a new color).

Edited to add: Ah ha! Now I get it the nail hole trick. Duh.

Thank you, MistyforAustin! I'll do that. Wish me luck.

If you must paint an accent color on a whilte wall in a room with a popcorn ceiling, which must remain white, the best way that I've found (and I haven't needed to do this very often) is to:

Leave about a 1/4" or so of white at the top of the wall so that you don't have the "white popcorn" from above creating funny tiny silhouettes against your color.

What it does is that it give you a nice thin white almost-imperceptible outline that just makes it look like you did a good job.

The way I did it is by hand, and I recommend it, so that you can really see what you're doing, because almost NO ceiling is perfect, and it's more important to make that line LOOK straight in relationship to the ceiling because to make it actually straight will make the ceiling look very crooked.

"Learn to cut freehand for the best results, its faster too."

Untrue - There are some great edgers out there, and they take hours off the job.

Also:
Rather than punching a hole in the can, there are $0.15 plastic pouring spouts that attach to the edge of a paintcan that make pouring easier and neater...
...and a $0.50 paint tray liner works much better than plastic bags.

These items are available at your local paint store.

I just purchased an AccuBrush system for edging. It was right at $100. Work has caused my paint project to be on hold for a bit, but I did try the contraption and did a bit of edging with it for the paint samples I was considering. I have to say it worked really well for me. I haven't done the wall/ceiling edge yet and will be interested to see how the mechanism works on a pole.

Siera, did you make your own cornices? The room is very pretty and the paint job looks luxe.

MistyforAustin, I totally agree. Walking into Benjamin Moore or Sherwin Williams is like walking into a haute couture house of paints. I also have to agree that the calibration on the color machines can be more than just a "little off."

Paint edgers are a waste of money, imo. I've tried them several times in several places on different types of walls, all with bad results.

Finally, I invested in some good Purdy brushes in various sizes and learned to cut in to achieve a clean, straight line. If you get good brushes (like Purdy or Corona, try others if you want) the learning curve is short and you'll be an expert in no time. It's not difficult at all.

if you're going to use tape try this:

1/ use a good quality painter's tape
2/ feather-paint the trim color over the tape line on the wall side (this keeps the wall color from bleeding under the tape) and let it dry
3/ paint yer wall
4/ carefully remove the tape before the paint dries

voila! nice lines.

my post-renovation overhaul advice:
1/ take the time to properly prep (why is everyone in such a rush?) w/ drop cloths, tape or whatever you're going to use for edges.
2/ don't glop on the paint trying to get the wall covered in one coat: it just doesn't work and looks crappy: nice thin coats.
3/ don't rush. you'll hurt yourself. ;)

you only want to do this once. take your time.

1. Punching holes in the rim of your can will likely ruin the seal you need to store the paint properly. Also, the rim and hole can rust, and when rust flakes mix into your paint, it can change the color, even if you strain the paint.

2. A plastic bag won't prevent rust in the paint. And you shouldn't hammer the lid -- tap it with a rubber mallet if you must, but never bang it with a hammer. Doing so can take your round paint lid and make it not-round. If using a plastic bag means you have to hammer it closed, you've got a problem.

4. Don't paint straight from the can.

6. Storing cheap rollers or trays in plastic overnight is fine. Any half-decent brush should be cleaned the moment you're done with it.

Two more things:

1)Buy a canvas drop cloth -- so much better than plastic, since it absorbs paint instead of leaving slick spots for you to step in; and

2)Purchase a Shur-Line touch-up kit (a little kit with three tiny rollers). It costs about $5 and I've found it to be the best way to evenly roll paint in areas where even the smallest rollers are too large (much easier than trying to get even coverage with a paint brush, in my experience).

Also:
Rather than using paper and tape for the floor (which doesn't work over carpet) - invest in a one or two heavy canvas drop cloths.

They work far better than the el-cheapo plastic drapes, they still prevent paint from getting on the floor and they're infinitely reusable - not only for painting but other repairs around the house where you want to protect surfaces or furniture.

I'm reading this while sitting at my desk at work while my bedroom is being painted.

My best advice: HIRE YOUR MOM! (if she loves to paint, and mine does!!)

Sucrek, try foil instead of plastic- much more airtight. I can leave a foil-wrapped brush out for a week, versus a day or so in plastic.

1) I have used an edger and found that it did not work at all -- paint got in underneath it at points, despite my scrupulousness. Taping, although time consuming, seems to be the most foolproof method for me. That being said, you MUST get the high quality brand name -- I once ran out and had no choice but to get dollar store painter's tape, and it did not come off in one piece, and I ended up spending hours picking little bits and pieces of tape off the wall. It also made for messy edges where paint got under the tape. Also, I always go for the thickest tape they have, that way I can be more liberal about doing edges.

2) The most important thing I've learned about painting is that it is crucial to get paint samples before picking a color. In my last apt., we ended up hating two of the colors we picked and discovering that one was too light. This time around, in our new apt., I knew we had to get samples. The colors we thought we'd love ended up being much brighter than expected and way too intense -- so I ended up going through a whole bunch of samples, but now I don't have to worry that I've bought a gallon of a paint color I don't even like.

3) I find that taping down newspapers is a cheaper alternative to a drop cloth and works just as well (except for furniture, for which the plastic has always worked fine).

Our paint store threw in a Richard's roller when we last bought a bunch of paint for the house, and boy I cannot recommend that roller enough. It was like painting with the Mercedes of rollers. I swear we used less paint and got better coverage with that roller.

When edging and doing corners, I hate the brushes because you can see the streaks left behind by the brush. Instead we used mini rollers and those were great for creating a more homogeneous look throughout. These do tend to require taping, unless you are super-awesome. My husband is too impatient to do a good job cutting in free-hand, and too impatient to wait for me to do a proper job, so taping it is, and he gets to do it.

Not a fan of edgers. Every one I've tried was a mess and did a crappy job. Nothing beats a quality brush and experience for edging imo. Purdy or Pro Form brushes...no taping necessary if you have a steady hand.

My mom and I repainted her ENTIRE house last year. We went room by room so it took a little longer. We primed the ceiling, trim, & walls then painted the ceiling and trim, then the walls. Tape was our friend (the OCD makes that essential) and so was Home Depot.

We spent a lot of time finding the right colors - and no two rooms were the same. She loves it!

No matter what brand of painter's tape I use, some paint from underneath ALWAYS peels off with it when it's removed. Can someone link to the specific tape that works best?

Frog tape works well but is way more expensive than blue painter's tape, which I've personally never had a problem with.

http://www.frogtape.com/

One (obvious) thing to touch on is to make sure everything is clean and dust free! Otherwise, unsmooth paint.

huh! I've had really good luck with my edging tool- I love it!

I can't tape in a straight line to save my life, especially on the rim of the baseboards.

Great suggestions all.

Another great tool to have is the painter's 5 in 1. Makes it actually possible to clean roller covers. I throw them in a bucket of water after getting as much paint as possible off w/ the tool, then clean w/ the tool. Keep changing the water until it's clear. I find this more effective than running water at the kitchen sink. http://www.amazon.com/Hyde-Tools-04970-Painters-Tool/dp/B000XBB9WY

You can buy a small sample can of paint at most stores for under $5. I bought the actual paint (not just the chips) for my last project, and tried it out on a larger area (3x3). The natural light struck the paint in a way the chip never showed, and it helped me pick the best color. I then bought a second sample can for under $5 to keep for touch

I purchased that exact edging tool AT linked to on Amazon. It failed miserably.

I don't know why no one has mentioned using a small artist brush to cut in the paint edge. NO other method has ever worked for me. Tape is expensive and bubbles. Four different edging systems failed and left streaks on the ceiling...which we weren't planning to paint and the previous owners left no touch up paint for. A small flat nylon bristled artist's brush? Pricelessly perfect edges.

And does anyone else think semi-gloss and gloss paints are easier to edge or is it just me?

sagekitten85 - I've just registered here to let you know you can use normal tape, but put it on your clothes (jeans are perfect) before you put it on the wall - this makes your tape "low tack" as they say in the 'biz. HTH

We've had great success with 3M Blue Painter's Tape. The wider ones are better. The reason for feathering beneath the tape might be because the taped surface wasn't smooth or perhaps had dust that prevented the tape from adhering completely to the surface.

I do think that using a stiff angled brush works best for edging if you 1) have a steady hand, 2) have patience, 3) aren't using a dark color against white crown moulding or baseboards.

W/re to colors. It's important to see what the colors look like at different times of day with different light (natural and artificial).

I am not a professional painter but I own a sq ft that I have painted (with help of course) 3 times, and apparently I am a compulsive mover so I have done a great deal of painting.

I am very good at cutting in, and proud to say I can do it both left handed and right handed, and blindfolded (OK, that last part was a lie). I used to tape and then as I got better at edging and eventually caved and bought a good brush, I stopped taping because I could edge faster than I could tape then paint.

However, the edging tool was the best thing to ever happen to me (apparently I have very dull life)! It has been a win/win for me. Not only does it do a better job than I can freehand, it saves me a TON of time.

Like anything else it has its quirks and tricks, but nothing major. The biggest for me is to do one wall at a time and then immediately roll so that I am working into as wet an edge as possible otherwise you can see the band created by the edger. And whatever you do, do not, I say do not! get paint on the little wheels or you are in for a heap of fun. Other than that I can edge a room in minutes flat, without ever getting on a ladder and it looks perfect.

Ummm that was supposed to say "5500 sq ft business." I can use an edger like a champ but apparently have problems with a keyboard.