While looking into the best way to insulate our drafty windows this winter (apart from replacing them), we put together this mini-guide of solutions we found so far. For the pros and cons of everything from layered curtains to shrink-wrap film, click below.
1) Rubber Weather Sealing:
You can buy strips of self-stick rubber weather sealing at a hardware store. Cut long strips down to fit your window dimensions, then peel and stick to the frame to close any gaps and keep out drafts. Pros: Cheap, effective, minimal alterations to appearance of windows. Cons: When you peel away the rubber strips, they can damage paint or leave a sticky residue. Image via Amazon.
2) Window Insulation Film:
You can buy window insulation kits from a hardware store. Kits usually include plastic shrink film that is applied to the indoor window frame with double-stick tape, then heated with a hair dryer to shrink the film and remove any wrinkles. Pros: Cheap and effective. Cons: Gives windows a cloudy, shrink-wrapped look. Image: 3M Indoor Window Insulation Kit, $16.78 at Amazon.
3) Cellular Shades:
Cellular Shades insulate while still letting in light through the windows. They can be ordered and custom cut from home and design centers. We found a good set of step-by-step instructions for installation here. Pros: They let in light and can be custom-fitted for doors and windows. Cons: They can be expensive and may not insulate as much as heavier curtains. Image via Levolor.
4) Layered Curtains:
Use heavy fabrics or layered curtains over the windows to keep out drafts. Pros: Looks good, can be matched to your home decor. Cons: Curtains can be expensive and heavy drapes can block out light. Image via Restoration Hardware.
5) Draft Snakes:
Draft snakes are fabric tubes placed on a window sill or under a door to prevent cold air from creeping in. You can make one by sewing a tube of fabric to fit the width of your window and filling it with dried rice. Pros: Cheap, easy to make as a DIY project. Cons: It only insulates the window sill, not the glass or frame. Image and pattern for draft snake via Lotta Jansdotter's Simple Sewing.
Related Links:
Republished from a post originally published 12.03.2007.
Top Photo: Muffet used under Creative Commons license 2.0

Comments (57)
You can get clear window insulation film and it works well. But I have had problems removing the tape, so much so, I've stopped using it. But I may have to use it this year on a few windows. It's been minus 20 celcius (-4F) or thereabouts for the last week and it's not getting any warmer soon.
If anyone has any tips on how to remove the tape, I'd appreciate it!
Alana...
Have you tried Goo Gone?
www.googone.com
It works well!
I've had the same problems with removing the tape too. I tried rubbing alcohol, lighter fluid, some "junk" remover and one or two other things, but none worked. Eventually, I just scrapped the tape off and repainted. Surely someone has something that works better than that.
I made my own window insulation. This may not be for everyone but it's working well for me. :)
the tape on that stuff is usually a real problem. luckily the last couple places i lived and severely needed, were older, rental, student houses so it didn't matter if it messed things up that much. the last place, we needed them so bad, when it was windy you could see it moving in and out, as the air was suctioning in and out from inside the window/plastic.
take it off real slow when you do it, if there is residue goo gone like suggested above should work, but if it doesn't there is also "goof off". much higher power, but watch out it might strip your paint off.
you could always try heating it up with a hairdryer, should loosen the glue a little bit
i'm hoping to find some cute and stylish draft snakes this year. we live in a much much better place, and the windows are really new and good, but i can still feel a little air from underneath it.
does anyone have DIY tips for draft snakes?
sorry i see the DIY link now, good for me and not reading thoroughly before i ask questions...
I am going to try clear bubble-wrap, just on the glass. I used foam/rubber along the cracks to stop the draft.
My windows have plastic (yes, plastic) frames which are so bad it is surreal and the building is crumbling away around the frames. I have actually had SNOW DRIFTS INSIDE around the north facing windows in my bed and bathrooms. (Its all glamour all the time here in NYC.) I have done everything listed above but the best thing ever was when I discovered spray foam, available at any hardware store. They even have foam that expands a lot for big spaces or a little for small. Exciting, fun and easy to use!
Check around your window for any cracks or even tiny holes. Granted, some of these can be caulked but if there is a breeze shooting out that can make a flame flicker get that foam and spray. Any that extrudes back out can be easily cut away once the foam drys. You'd be surprised at the voids around window frames in old buildings. I used two cans on one window alone and now the place is so much warmer.
Thanks for the goo gone idea. I have tried using a hair dryer in the past and that can get quite a bit of it--but not all.
Try Mortite - it doesn't leave a residue, is very easy to apply and does a fairly good job sealing http://www.energyfederation.org/consumer/default.php/cPath/21_392_1412
If you have metal window frames, I'd bet you can adapt that great magnetic frame idea by using tiny, high strength magnets.
i stumbled upon this article a while back and found it useful... hopefully it can help someone else as well
http://www.ianrpubs.unl.edu/epublic/pages/publicationD.jsp?publicationId=687
Thanks for this post! This is my first real winter (California girl now in the midwest) and our apartment windows are terrible. I just put up bubble wrap on the windows to insulate per a comment in the How To Stay Warm Thread (the link above isn't working for me, BTW). It looks awful, but aethetics quickly became secondary to warmth, and a desire not to waste energy and money this winter. And I figure if the landlord is ok with having such broke-down, jankity windows in the apartment, she shouldn't mind a little tape residue if I can't get it all off once winter ends!
This is a pretty good idea, thanks!
ogma: Sometimes, when I describe my living conditions to non-NYC dwellers, I use the phrase 'third world'.
I am a fan of the 3m window film, but am also annoyed with the problem of removing the double-sided tape.
As a way around this problem, I discovered I could first put down a strip of electrical tape, and then adhere the double sided tape to the electrical tape (which easy to remove and doesn't leave residue), then I finish installing the film as directed. Works like a charm all winter, plus the electrical tape comes in various colors to suit your interior.
I tried all sorts of things in the old drafty place I lived, Seal N' Peel worked the best of anything, it's a tad stinky to apply (I did all but one window, left it open for an hour and left the apt to clear the stink) and then sealed up the last one before I left for the day.
It's like a caulk, dries clear, and you can peel it off in the spring. I didn't have any residue issues. In the spots where the paint was peeling it took some off but nothing horrendous. Highly suggest it for Chicago winters!
http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=20
Bubble wrap!!!!! just strips along the draft areas stuck on w water, 5 minutes up and down. Amazing difference! Super warm even in a room where I have shut the radiator due to too much heat (NYC steam, etc.)
http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/Conservation/bubblewrap.htm
I have single-paned aluminum frame windows, which means that I have condensation all over my frames. If I'm not super diligent about wiping off the window frames, I get mildew all around my windows! It got so bad that one of my windows now has a 4" icicle ON THE INSIDE. I don't even know what to do about this one...
I'm new to the Rubber Weather Sealing so I might understand exactly how it is applied but in regards to the comments on removing it, has anyone tried putting down artists tape (the easily removed masking tape) down before and then sticking the other tape on top? Then you should only have to remove the artists tape for it to come off.
I had a problem with the wind blowing through the windows and blowing the plastic right off! Now I use the double stick tape, the the plastic, then put packing tape on of the plastic and secure it with stips of lattice nailed on with small brads. It's a system now.
Ottawa's winters are long and brutal. Previous few owners took zippo care of the original (exterior) wooden storm windows, so putty had failed and was falling off in curlicues, glass panes were broken, and wood was just about to start rotting. The fix has been time-consuming but not rocket science.
Putty's cheap, so's glass, and you have to dry the wood really thoroughly before any other treatments, but then the windows work beautifully after. Recommend "Working windows" by Meany if you want to tackle this project. Lots of info. on the net too, of course.
We've liked the end results so much that we had 3 new wood storm windows made and installed, to replace the horrid triple-track aluminum ones put on 3 windows.
No condensation. Beautiful windows. Minimal drafts.... and those should be dealt with once we're able to source sash pocket boots/brushes or something, somewhere.
DeborahMcP, we just rehabbed the wood storm windows on our house. It was labor-intensive, but we're proud to have done it and they look so much better than the vinyl that covers some of our other windows.
I completely agree with the Seal & Peel by Dap. My apartment used to be incredibly drafty - even my cat stopped enjoying her favorite window ledges because it was so cold. I used to lay in bed and feel the draft while lying 3 ft from my bedroom window - not good. Anyways, used Seal & Peel on all windows but one - in case there's any need for an open window (removing smells, smoke from cooking gone wrong, etc) and my heating bills have gone down drastically and my cat is back in her favorite windows.
Any ideas on how best to cover an air-conditioner that has to stay in the window? In prior years, our NYC apt was so overheated that I would sometimes use the air conditioner in my bedroom to cool it down before going to bed. This year they've turned the neat way down and we can feel the wind coming in through the air conditioner and the flimsy accordian sides.
In reading the post on insulating windows I didn't see anything about insulated sheathing so thought I'd post this trick I tried. I recently moved and wanted an end unit for all the natural light but wasn't thinking of cold weather. When I saw all the condensation on the windows I knew I was in trouble and my electric bill confirmed it. I've tried the plastic wrap & foam stripping in the past quite unsuccessfully as many of you have posted. So off to Home Depot where I purchased 4 x 8 sheets of R5 insulated sheathing with foil on one side. This is an easy project. I measured the windows, cut the sheathing with a razor knife, laid it on fabric, cut the fabric with 1/2 inch excess on sides and 2" on bottom of one side only. Stitched it up like a pillow case, slid in the sheathing (foil side to fabric that would face the glass) and folded over the 2 inch excess and rather then velcro that never sticks I just stuck 1" straight pins every 3 inches on an angle so I can take of the coverings to wash them when needed. I used fabric on the outside that coordinated with the building color and on the inside that goes with the room. Can still use mini blinds or drapes. I put them in at sunset and remove in the a.m. usually leave tops in unless I want to open windows, but take both sides out of the slider windows. It is really no big deal to take them in & out and just lean them against the wall under the window they go in. Remarkably, the first month I saved $100.00 off my electric heat bill. The sheathing was around $11 (3 sheets did 5 windows with excess to give to my friend) & I used material I already had (I do quilting so had plenty). This was going to be temporary until I could make the quilted shades but guess what, its permanent now. A lot less work than making the shades, not unattractive, and it worked most likely better than the quilted shades as I doubt they would give me R5.
because i'm awful at sewing even the simplest of things, i have decided to make the draft snake out of tube socks (filled with the rice as instructed) and tied off at the ends.
we have 3 windows directly behind our couch, so it can get pretty chilly in the evening.
just an idea for those out there without a sewing machine like myself =)
Some great ideas in the comments, I had no idea there was such a thing as magnetic paint. RkyMtnHrse, do you have a picture anywhere of the project you describe?
I'm in a studio with no windows but one big drafty patio door. Last winter my heating bill was over $150 and my studio is only ~450ish sq.! My landlords have so many restrictions on what things may look like from the outside. I am now thinking of hanging heavy/"thermal" curtains and possibly somehow incorporating that magnetic paint... It seems to be a choice between saving on my heating bill or foregoing natural light...
I saved this post because the suggested treatments also would keep out summer heat and glare. Thanks!
We have two HUGE windows in our house that had wooden blinds (which were impossible to raise due to the sheer weight of them) and we replaced them last year with custom Bali cellular shades while JCPenny was having a sale. They are great at insulating, but I can understand how it could be cost prohibitive for a lot of people, and not at all worthwhile for renters. Also, you really need to get the double or triple cell, the single cell really doesn't insulate much.
Our Victorian house in London is so cold it's untrue. We have the secondary glazing film, thick curtains with thermal liners, heavy pile rugs, and still our noses are cold. In fact we've had to switch which room we sleep in- anyone have any tips for insulating the walls?
But I agree, the film over the windows has helped a lot.
To those talking about magnets and magnetic paint, great idea! I am in a corner unit, so some of my walls are exterior. I discovered that parts of those walls have metal running through and I can use magnets on the inside part of the wall. Also, my exterior doors, although painted, are metal underneath, so that's another place I can hang things using magnets. So, walk around your place with a high-powered magnet and see which walls you can use it on...you might be surprised at what you discover...I've created instant bulletin boards without any work, so any other lightweight material would work too.
Re: the magnetic paint - Check out Benjamin Moore, or call a local paint store (not a Home Depot, but a neighborhood paint store that knows what they're talking about).
to "everydaycraftygoodness "..Dude! you're a genius!
I have a big old glass door that makes my house freezing. Last winter I put a thermal curtain on for the really cold days (it has been up for two weeks now). It is ugly but has really helped. I got it at Target.
My recommendation is also Seal & Peel. I've got a 1930 Craftsman with beautiful wood trim around my windows. But there are gaps in that trim. I had my house professionally air sealed, and the Seal & Peel application is literally invisible. You apply it, then smooth it in the gaps with your finger. Really not noticeable, so a big change with no aesthetic downside. This is just in the trim around the window, and I can still open the windows, so for me it's a one time deal with no need to remove or redo ever.
We've got "Florida windows" on our house in NC. They are slatted glass. Talk about drafty! With global warming dumping snow in our region the last 3 winters, and the economy making it impossible to sell a house, we are definitely looking to solutions such as @everydaycraftyness' wonderful magnetic vinyl home made window treatments. Thanks!
@Pippa27, I saw on TV a few years ago that there's temperature-insulating paint for walls, now.
Try mineral spirits. It's amazing!
another recommendation of Seal & Peel by Dap -- some of my windows don't lock shut (stupid previous tenants), so I put it where the panes meet, as well as around the edges where needed. the only thing is the awful "vanilla" smell, make sure you've got a fan going!
For insulating behind pretty curtains, i went to Hobby Lobby and bought yards and yard of this stuff call Insul-bright. It's meant to be used when making oven mitts and works great on windows. I just hung it behind our curtains. It's only $2.50 a yard and you can use a 40% off coupon too. Really cheap way to make your curtains insulating ones.
I second the Mortite putty. It's really easy and it works.
I swear by Mortite AND the plastic sheeting. I've never tried the Seal and peel- that's a great idea- Thank you!
About that squirt foam sealer...
We recently had a program at my library with an energy auditor talking abut all this kind of thing. He pointed out that windows are just a hole in the wall -- the R factor of glass (even great double paned glass) is very very low compared to properly insulated walls. So
ANYTHING that creates a buffer layer of air between the glass and the room will help to one degree or another.
He also said that the hole the window is inserted into, mostly hidden under the trim molding, is often uninsulated and a main culprit in drafts. If you can remove the trim molding carefully and insulate that crack you may get much toastier! But be careful of the foam. The expanding kind is very forceful, and if you use too much in a closed space you can actually warp and break things! Just read the can carefully and be sure you know what you are getting!
(Another place to insulate is behind switch plates and electrical outlets. Apparantly you can use foam here, too, but I have questions about the wiring being exposed to the foam. Get some advice on this one!!)
Forget the sticky stuff! I saved $700 in heating last winter by making interior storm windows for my plaster-framed, aluminum windows that no sticky stuff in the world will stick to. Simply buy plastic sheeting on the roll and insert instead of screening in the metal screen window strips. You'll need the metal strips, the plastic cording to press the sheeting in, and the little roller gizmo. About $200 for nine 3-1/2 x 5' windows. Had to use one extra strip in the middle for bracing-just stuck in. Looks nice, and if you get the plastic just right, it's nearly invisible. Used plastic weather stripping tucked into gaps around edge to hold in place. Eliminates condensation, too. Hope lots of people see this and are able to lower their bills, too!
McBride - what was the cost for Seal n Peel installation. Have a 2 year apt lease and it's very, very cold because they're stingy with the heat. Wondering if feasable to pay someone to install for me.
You'd be amazing what you can do with cotton balls and some tweezers. I went around and shoved as much cotton as I couldn't into all of the cracks where I could feel air coming in, and it's worked amazingly (not to mention super cheap)!
You'd be amazed what you can do with cotton balls and some tweezers. I went around and shoved as much cotton as I couldn't into all of the cracks where I could feel air coming in, and it's worked perfectly (not to mention super cheap)!
Loved watching Amy Sedaris show Stephen Colbert how she makes draft snakes out of old neckties on the Colbert Report. I'm going to fill some thrift store find ties with beans and give it a shot.
This is a great article on what you can do now that it is cold, but to prevent the drafts before they start check out this article: http://www.oldhouseauthority.com/archive/old_windows.php.
I just tried the Ace Rope Caulk Weatherstrip this weekend to seal my sliding glass patio doors and windows. It worked great, was very inexpensive (bought a 90ft roll for $10), no tools needed but your fingers, comes right off without a mess, is flexible enough so you can fit it into awkward nooks and gaps and worked amazingly well. I'm no handy man so when I say it was easy, it was EASY! :)
Got it at my local hardware store. Check it out: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1386305&cp=2568443.2568451.2626208.2626341.2627448
just bought a drafty house. considering building wooden frames for each window to fit inside of rough opening, with felt strips to insure tight fitm then apply the plastic/hairdreyer seal on one side and place into window opening. Anyone ever tried this?
Spray foam insualtion is the best option for sealing window and door drafts. Unlike caulking, it expands and contracts to create an airtight seal.
The best quality products in the marketplace that I have seen are Arctic Foam and Greatstuff.
How well do these hold up to blower door test s? I have no idea what a blower door test is but it sound violent. Please help!
I've heard of the bubble wrap idea before. I tried it in my bathroom last year because traditional plastic is such a pain in there. Single pane, aluminum frames... yes ice builds up sometimes. IT WORKS Great!! Not even a smidgen of ice last year. And It makes me feel good to find a use for this stuff besides wasting an hour popping the bubbles. :o) What I like about it is you still have use of the window.
This year I want to try making window covering from cloth, bubble wrap and one of those emergency blankets to add to the mix.
As for the poster from the UK... Look to history. Thick rug-like tapestry is what our ancestors used... or put up some foam rubber panels covered with upholstery. Diamond Tuck like a car might be cool looking. I would think thin MDF would make them easier to put up and take down and stow somewhere.
Just a quick report: I got the idea from the bubble wrap idea. I have this southwest facing window that really heats up my house in the summer. Unfortunately, it's in my master bedroom area and makes it miserable to get any sleep. I decided to try something. In my camping equipment I had a couple of those silver emergency blankets. After cleaning my window, I sprayed it with water and used a squeegee to smooth on a layer of the blanket. The benefits are amazing. I can still see out. It darkens the room for sleeping. And the best part is it really reflects a lot of the heat from the sun. It's almost time to swap out the silver film for bubble wrap. But next summer all south and west facing windows are getting this treatment.
Can anyone recommend a way to "insulate" a sliding glass door? It's basically the only light into our tiny kitchen, so I thought of going with plastic insulation, but unfortunately going out the sliding glass door is also the only access to our storage area (think Christmas decorations). I'm getting to the point where draft snakes and some curtains might be the only options.
Bubble wrap sounds fantastic!
I live in a condo building. Home Owner Association has not helped for ten years getting me heat when the temperature drops below zero. I have the coldest condo in the building because lower condo owners and renters keep windows wide open all year and the warm water never gets to my floor. I have more windows than most other units as well. The windows are all metal-frame and gather frost well. Bubble wrap may be the cure!
I am also going to rent an infrared camera to show the Home Owner Association where the heat escapes from our building.
Another alternative to layered curtains or heavy fabrics covering the windows is new technology known as "solar blinds". Krumpers Climate Control Solar Blinds are a Canadian-manufactured window insulation product designed to regulate the temperature of your home year round to save on heating and cooling. Reduces solar heat gain by 68% in the summer and heat loss by up to 71% in the winter. Reversible and Reflective.