If you've never lived or spent a significant amount of time in Baltimore, then I know what you're thinking. Why in the world would I want a to visit this city? Yes, we definitely get a bad rap, but there is way more to Charm City than crime statistics and The Wire (granted, it is a superb show!). Baltimore is a diverse city with a rich history — and while we might be known for the Inner Harbor and Camden Yards — this guide will take you out of the tourist traps and give you a small taste of what Baltimore has to offer. Excellent restaurants, strollable neighborhoods, and a thriving arts scene, to name a few. But above all, get out and meet some of the people that live here, they are the true heart of this authentic city.
See:
• American Visionary Art Museum: The AVAM is just a rare gem and truly my favorite museum. Visionary art is art made by self-taught individuals that comes from listening to the "inner voices of the soul, and often may not even be thought of as 'art' by its creator". Every year in May, the AVAM brings us the Kinetic Sculpture Race, where human powered works of art must race through land, water, mud, or whatever is thrown at them! While you're at the AVAM, be sure to visit the Sideshow shop for quirky wares as well as grabbing a bite to eat or a fun cocktail at the AVAM restaurant, Mr. Rain's Funhouse. Make sure you go outside and enjoy the view!
• Federal Hill: If you want a fantastic view of the city, a walk to stretch your legs, or a place to let your dog run, head up to the top of Federal Hill. It earned its name in 1788, when thousands of Baltimoreans marched from Fells Point to the hill to enjoy a picnic and fireworks in celebration of the ratification of the Constitution. It has been a public park since 1879.
• Baltimore Museum of Industry: Located in an old oyster cannery, the BMI offers exhibits on the manufacturing and industrial industry while documenting inventions and processes discovered first in Baltimore and Maryland. A flash-back in time where you can see early vacuums and the world's first typesetting machine.
• The Charles Theater: Take in a movie at The Charles, a true Baltimore place to see and be seen. Opening as Baltimore's first all-newsreel movie house in 1939 as the Times Theatre. Shortly later it was renamed the Charles, and later went on to become a calendar revival house. This now five-seat theater shows first-run specialty movies, foreign films, and don't miss out on their revival series. Grab bite at Tapas Teatro or Sofi's Crepes and then head across the street to Club Charles for a drink afterwards and a possible John Waters siting.
Tour:
• Creative Alliance: Located by Patterson Park, this non-profit organization promotes and presents all genres of art. From burlesque shows to music performances, meet-ups and workshops of all kinds. They offer a residency program, do community outreach and even rent media equipment. Don't miss their Great Halloween Lantern Parade. Check their calendar to see what their latest events are.
• The Baltimore Tattoo Museum: If you're in the market for some ink, they surely can help you out, but don't forget to allow yourself enough time to wander the museum. The museum's goal is to preserve the myths, truths, stories and images of electric tattooing dating back from the late 19th century to the present.
• Druid Hill Conservatory and Botanic Gardens: The Conservatory, an architectural relic from the Victorian era, is the last hothouse of its kind in Baltimore. Visit The Palm House, Orchid Room, or three greenhouses that each mimic desert, tropic and Mediterranean habitats.
• Visit A Market: Unlike many cities, Baltimore is still home to numerous public markets. Our public market system dates back to 1763 when the first market was erected with funds raised through a lottery. Eleven markets eventually encircled the city, each serving a distinct neighborhood and clientele, often with stalls run by families dating back multiple generations. To name a few, check out Lexington Market, Broadway Market in Fell's Point, or head to Cross Street Market in Federal Hill for an enormous happy hour beer and some raw oysters. If it's Friday, be prepared to stand.
• The Waterfront Promenade: Almost every tourist or person who's been to Baltimore once, thinks the Inner Harbor is all we have to offer. I beg to differ but also believe it's worth checking out. If you're a bit more adventurous, take it in and then some by walking the entire promenade. The promenade is a paved walkway that hugs nearly seven miles of the waterline of the Inner Harbor from Fort McHenry to the Canton Waterfront Park. It will take you through many different neighborhoods and you'll see countless attractions. Grab a drink at J. Pauls outdoor bar and settle in for some serious people watching. Once you've grown tired, head over to the USS Constellation for a tour. If you're lucky, you might get to hear a concert taking place at Pier Six, and if you do get tired, you can always grab a water taxi to take you back across.
Shop:
• I might be biased — full disclaimer this is my hood — but head to Hampden for a fun day of shopping in a neighborhood that will give you a healthy campy dose of Baltimore. Walk along the "Avenue" to wander in and out of independently owned shops and boutiques of all kinds. Be sure to check out the numerous antique stores, Paradiso and Denova to name my faves, along with In Watermelon Sugar and Trohv. Sixteen Tons offers timeless apparel and goods for men in a hip setting or Doubledutch Boutique for modern or indie designs for the ladies. Grab brunch or a night cap at Golden West (you might catch an awesome band if you stroll in at a later hour), some seriously tasty coffee at Spro, and dine at the newly opened Food Market, Corner BYOB, The Dogwood, or Grano. If you really want to see Hampden bustling, come during HONFEST or the winter holidays for the light display on Miracle on 34th Street.
• Second Chance: A non-profit that sells salvaged building materials and architectural elements from homes and buildings around the city. Old doorknobs, tiles, claw foot tubs, light fixtures, tin ceilings, even movie set props — if you need to replace something in your old home, chances are they have it.
• Housewerks: Not as expansive as Second Chance, but also worth a visit to is Housewerks. This architectural salvage company is housed in an old 1885 gas valve house making it almost just as much fun to wander through the space as it is to check out the goods.
• Baltimore Clayworks: Baltimore Clayworks is a non-profit ceramic art center that offers ceramic art classes and exhibits. Be sure to check out the shop featuring works by their residents and member artists.
Eat:
• Woodberry Kitchen: Crabs aside, if you don't think Baltimore has stellar food options, then you obviously have not eaten at Woodberry Kitchen. Sourcing all of its ingredients from local growers and farmers, this farm-to-table restaurant is a bit off the beaten path but completely worth the drive. Not only will you enjoy superb comfort food and inventive cocktails, but also an atmosphere that doesn't disappoint! I highly recommend reservations, but if you're patient you might score a seat at the bar.
• Artifact Coffee: Artifact, which just opened this month, is the latest project from the folks behind Woodberry Kitchen. Made-to-order coffee is the focus here, but they also offer a seasonal menu that serves similar but more casual fare to what you might sample at WK. They hold free cuppings every Friday at 10am.
• The Helmand: Owned by the brother of the Prime Minister of Afghanistan, the Helmand has been around for over twenty years serving up excellent Afghan food at super reasonable prices. And every regular will tell you, you must try the pumpkin appetizer.
• L.P. Steamers: A no-frills place in Locust Point where locals go to drink Natty Boh and eat steamed crabs that they can actually afford. Get there early to get a seat at the small rooftop deck.
• The Brewer's Art : My favorite place to kick back and enjoy a great beer. Not only do they brew their own (some of which are now offered bottled or you can bring in your own growler), they also have an extensive beer and drink list along with excellent food. The ambience is also worth checking out, set in a grand Mt. Vernon townhouse with a chandelier not to be missed. After dining upstairs, be sure to slink down to the dimly lit bar in the basement. If you can't get a seat at the often packed bar, look for a table or couch in one of the brick alcoves. 
Stay:
• The Four Seasons: Just opening last year, this luxury hotel is located on the water in Harbor East. If you can't afford it but want a taste of its scene, grab a coffee at Lamill Coffee or food and drinks at Wit & Wisdom. The decor in both is worth a stop in.
• Hotel Monaco: Located in the once Baltimore & Ohio Railroad headquarters, the hotel features the original marble and Tiffany stained-glass windows in this grand building. Dogs are welcome and they offer free bikes, a great way to check out the city! Be sure to try one of the cocktails at B&O American Brasserie, their drinks have won numerous awards.
• Admiral Fell Inn: Located smack dab in the heart of Fell's Point, the Admiral Fell Inn is a historic, European-style hotel. Consisting of seven different buildings dating back to the 1770's, over the years the Inn has served as a ship chandlery, a theater, a boarding house for sailors and later, a Seaman's YMCA. While you're in Fell's, walk down to The Cat's Eye for beers and live music every night. This bar has been around forever, mostly unchanged, and a true glimpse at the diverse folks of Baltimore.
(Images: Kimber Watson)
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AVAM alone is worth the trip to Baltimore. A few years ago they had an amazing exhibit on drag queen costumes. Our house has a ton of (cheap) stuff from their gift shop that we framed and put on the walls.
Having lived in Baltimore for almost 6 years (I just left this February and I miss it dearly, but love my new city, Boston), I can speak to the charm of this city (they don't call it Charm City for nuthin'). The city can best be described as quirky, and it has a lot of great eats (check out Salt, One World Cafe, Mezze, and Minato, just to name a few), as well as a terrific art/music culture. The Baltimore Museum of Art has one of the best Matisse collections (the Cohn sisters whose collection is part of the regular exhibits were close friends with him), and there is a lovely outdoor sculpture garden. For earlier work, especially African and Asian art, check out the Walters Museum in Mt Vernon. Also in Mt. Vernon, visit the Peabody library at the Peabody Conservatory (also check out some of the terrific student concerts)--anyone who has dreamed of being in a library similar to that of Beauty and the Beast should definitely check it out. I also recommend wandering around the cobblestone streets of Fells Point and checking out the historical row homes.
Baltimore is also home to the largest free arts festival on the East Coast, Artsfest (just last weekend), which has artists from all over the country, great musical artists, free opera and dance performances, etc.
I urge people to go and visit this underrated city!
I would add Tera Cafe to the list. My FAVORITE place to eat, it's in Charles Village and has great food for dirt cheap!
They dropped the nickname Charm City in the 90's. It even made the TV news and the papers back in the day. I wonder why? Ugh.
We moved out in 2002 when our landlord said he could no longer guarantee our safety after 12 years in our sweetheart of an apartment. The last weekend we lived there a woman got beat up on the back of my car 7 o'clock in the morning on a Sunday. We hadn't set foot in downtown except for jury duty for at least five years by then. There is nothing down there worth risking life or limb for.
@tarainsevenvalleys where were you living? I think it's so unfortunate that crime is the only thing Baltimore seems to be known for. Yes, you need to be smart, it's a real city, and it's important to know the neighborhoods, but I lived there, as I mentioned for almost 6 years, and really never felt unsafe. It's a city, and you need to be realistic about walking alone at night, not leaving things out in the open in your car, and locking your home. But I only have positive things to say about this city.
Agree whole heartedly with stam487. As long as you aren't buying or selling drugs, I don't think BMore is any more dangerous than any other city.
And while I'm at it, if you're looking for good eats in federal hill check out Metropolitan or Hirsch's ( it's a new pizza place, maybe more locust point than fed hill). Dukem is an amazing Ethiopian place in Mount Vernon, and you def can't miss out on Iggies pizza up there either.
As for shopping, my favorite place to buy art is at MICA's Art Mart in December, when the students sell cheap crafts, prints, pottery, jewelry, and more.
I really love this place and strongly recommend it to anyone!
I've lived in Bmore for 8 years, and this is an excellent guide to the city! I just have to add The Wine Market (www.the-wine-market.com) and Baba's Kitchen (www.babaskitchen.net) to the list of restaurants. The Wine Market has consistently delicious food and a lovely patio on which to languish during warm evenings. Baba's is a cute little restaurant with fresh and tasty mediterranean meals dished up by Fareed, the owner, who will greet you like you're family when you walk in the door.
I have to add Atomic Books (www.atomicbooks.com) as one of the must-see shops of Hampden!
We were living in Hamilton/Lauraville, Southern Avenue, a couple houses up from Harford Road. A few years before we moved out I saw the neighbors apartment get cleaned out with a UHaul. They had crawled in through the window on the porch.
Another neighbor duct taped his dog's mouth shut and animal control was afraid of them and wouldn't do anything.
My husband shared a ride to Hunt Valley with a guy at work and I would pick him up at Harford and Northern Parkway every day. He had a stalker that would wait for him at the fire station there with a Polaroid camera and take pictures of him.
By the end, since we didn't have a washer dryer in the apartment, I was driving to Cockeysville to do our laundry. Too many stories to even tell of scary experiences by myself at the laundromats that line Harford Rd.
The last time we visited Harborplace we witnessed a group of people harassing a salesperson in a store that sold knives. I could write a book on my experiences of jury duty alone.
My family and husband's family are originally from the city. My mother does genealogy and visits the old cemeteries. When she goes they usually give her an escort (without her even asking) and they always tell her to lock her purse in her trunk and be aware of her surroundings.
Fun times!
And why did we stay 12 years? Three walk in closets, walk in pantry, apartment up in the trees. Moved there in 1991 for $355 a month and we had the best landlord who took care of everything. And he never raised the rent!
Other places to check out:
- The Book Thing (http://www.bookthing.org/) - Weekend warehouse of free books
- Walters Art Museum (http://thewalters.org/) - Also free, and make sure to check out my favorite room, the Chamber of Wonders (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cbustapeck/1634960878/)
- Trinacria Italian Deli (http://www.trinacriabaltimore.com/) - buy their freshly baked bread, it's incredible!
- Avenue Antiques - three stories of eclectic vintage items
- Milagro - Mexican/Southwestern inspired jewelry and decor
- Hampden Junque - tiny store crammed with fun, kitschy vintage stuff
Also, if you're traveling to Baltimore by car and have bit of space for purchases a stop at Home Anthology (http://www.homeanthology.com/) is a necessity. They mostly sell MCM furniture but they have smaller-ish items like clocks, lamps, and bowls.
Don't forget Charm City Craft Mafia's shows, Pile of Craft and Holiday Heap: http://www.charmcitycraftmafia.com/shows.html If you can brave the crowds, it's well worth your time!
We love Baltimore! I lived in Mount Vernon at two separate times in my life, and although we're now living just south of the city, my husband and I dream of owning a vacation home downtown so we can spend our weekends there. One of our favorite places is Nacho Mama's: http://www.nachomamascanton.com/
Love Baltimore, and it's interesting now to go there as a resident of another city. You really do see it with different eyes. Thanks for the awesome post. There are some places here that I didn't know that are now on my list for next time I go home. :-)
Baltimore does have a bad rap, and it is based on the sad reality of urban poverty, crime, and drug trafficking. This plagues all American cities and clearly we need new solutions and we need to work together. The Wire is a pretty honest show. BUT if people are too afraid to enter the city and enjoy its rich history, art and culture, and food, it will deteriorate even more. The city government values tourism and the revenue these places bring. It protects the neighborhoods where you will find these great shops and restaurants. I have never had a bad experience in the city, because I don't live in fear. I'm realistic and take necessary precautions, but I live my life and enjoy my hometown! I walk with a smile on my face like I know where I'm going and I stay out of the worst neighborhoods. It's best not to walk alone at night anywhere, but don't be afraid of Hampden, Federal Hill, Canton, Fells Point, Mount Vernon, or the Inner Harbor. They're too great to pass up! Call me a crazy hippy, but the energy you exude is so important. Don't give up on B'more!
Baltimore is a fantastic town. We lived downtown for 3 years. I was mugged outside of our apartment and will even say it was a great town. They have fantastic neighborhoods, great food, and a wonderfull farmers market. I miss Baltimore (almost) everyday!
love and miss my hometown!
I am so TIRED of the bad rep Baltimore gets. It's my favorite city in the US. (I may be a little biased, haha.) Why must Baltimore always go hand-in-hand with crime when other cities are worse (hello Chicago, St. Louis, New Orleans!) yet they are aren't given the same grief Baltimore gets. (I to this day refuse to watch The Wire because of the negative picture it paints of Baltimore.) Baltimore is a beautiful, quirky, and amazing city and I would suggest any traveler visit to see for yourself.
Let's not forget Station North! North Avenue is not what it used to be, and most weekend nights you will see the place teeming with young artsy people milling about from one place to the next. :)
Liam Flynn's (Bar)
The Windup Space (bar/venue)
Bohemian Coffee Shop (rest/venue)
Joe 2 (restaurant/bar/venue)
I'm from Baltimore, but it's been a few years since I've actually "lived" there. Home is still in a really awful part of the city crime wise so I avoid visiting when I can, but this guide has actually made me want to rediscover my city. A tough feat. Of course my faves are mentioned (but how could you leave out Atomic Books in Hampden?), but there are quite a few spots I've never heard of. I'm looking forward to the next time I head home.
@MorningGlorie
I used to live upstairs from Liam Flynn and his wife!
Baltimore is pretty freaking cool. Moved away years ago, but still think of it fondly.
My husband and I, and our 11 month old son live in Downtown Baltimore on the Westside. We LOVE it. It's such a great walkable city with so much to see and do. Living downtown gives us access to so many great neighborhoods - Fell's Point, Harbor East, Federal Hill, Mt Vernon on foot, and by taking the light rail I can be in Bolton Hill, Hampden and Mt Washington easily. I love that we have the Charm City Circulator to take us anywhere for free. There are great restaurants (Byblos, Thai Arroy) and the best salvage stores I've ever been in (Second Chance and the Loading Dock are favorites). Oh and we just got a gorgeous Anthropologie that opened on Friday.
It's fun to live in Baltimore right now. It feels like it's on the cusp of greatness. The architecture in this city is breathtaking. I have a feeling that if in 5 years we wouldn't have be able to afford our amazing 1100 sq foot converted warehouse apartment with my husband just starting his career. It's nice to be here and see all the wonderful growth firsthand.
Thanks for the positive perspective of Balmer, hon!
Don't forget the aquarium and the science center - great for kids.
I am originally from NYC but I too lived in Baltimore (for a hellish three years) and it has got to be the most socially and intellectually backward city I have ever encountered. When I left I had no plans of ever returning and for ten years I stayed far far away. I went back for a short weekend trip and just when I thought things had changed I witnessed a drug addict woman screaming obscenities and threats at the paddle boat operators down at the inner harbor....after the screaming fit she flashed her crack riddled breasts to everyone in sight.....Yeah....Baltimore is just one of those places...it's ok to visit (not sure why you would want to though) but I would NEVER EVER want to live there.