Q: I found four Tolix chairs for cheap on Craigslist because someone had left them outside without the proper weatherproofing and they rusted. I like the rusty look but need to refinish them to keep them from continuing to rust through, since I want to use them outside on the patio.
I can't find *anything* online about refinishing Tolix chairs specifically, but from my research about refinishing steel and metal more generally it looks like my basic steps are scrubbing with steel wool, naval jelly/phosphoric acid, lots of sanding, repaint. (Using rust paint? Is rust paint weatherproof? Other recommended paint/finish options?) Does this sound right? Does anyone have tips on specific products or techniques that I should look into? Since I'm not anti-rust, is there a way to just remove the top layer of peeling paint and seal to prevent further rusting? Am I crazy to DIY this? Thanks in advance for any advice!
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Rust is corrosive so just like on a car body, a little rust on steel will continue to eat away/corrode the steel. If you're going to tackle rust removal, the idea is to get rid of all of it to preserve the metal that's remaining. I suggest you talk to a good paint store in your area.
I'd suggest getting a bid from a powder coating shop just to see if that's a viable option.
I bought some old motel chairs that were in much worse condition. I looked up sandblasters in the yellow pages and the place I went with charged me $25 a chair. As soon as you get them back you'll want to prime them with spray paint that is specifically for metal. Let dry, then coat with a couple of rounds of good quality spray paint. My chairs stay outside and look brand new a couple of years later.I looked into the powder coat option but it was prohibitively expensive.
See if an auto body shop will do it for you, they often will.
good suggestions , just want to say how nice those chairs are.
yes. sandblasting and clear powercoating (or clearcoat from an auto body shop).
if you were intent on DIY, if you get them really, really clean, but not to bare metal (i.e.: no flakey rust and no oil whatsoever), some clear wheel lacquer from a rattle can might be durable enough for use. i've used this with success in the past, but it's temperamental to use (practice) and you need to do it in a warm, dust-free environment. however, it's super durable... unlike ordinary crystal clear.
based on the work i've had done in the past, i'd expect to pay between $75 and $125/chair for blasting and powdercoating or painting.
I'd go with the professionals - either sandblast & powder coat, or a car body shop. Otherwise you'll sand and sand and sand and in the end you won't be happy, so you'll take them to the sandblaster anyway. They *are* nice chairs - worth the effort. Lucky you!
If you like the rusty look try using Penetrol. It's designed as an oil paint thinner but also works as rust stopper.
Love the rust. I've always loved rust. Mock if you will, I don't care. Of course, you have to stop the rust . . . sounds as if Shlafoo has this all wrapped up. Also, let me mention that I am sick with jealousy that I've never found a great deal on rusty Tolix chairs . . . no, really, I'm perfectly happy with my overstock.com knockoffs. Actually, I am, but I would ditch them in a New York minute for rusty, dented, banged, distorted, whatever Tolix.
The more I see these (cyberly; never in person) the more I like them. Great find & hope they find a place for you indoors as well as outdoors (protected from the elements).
To keep the patina use a rust inhibitor i.e.:(naval jelly, penetrol) and a clear topcoat, I like poly. When you treat the patina on steel the "cancer" is still there so theoretically it will continue to eat at the metal, but it will be slowed way down, the chair will outlive you.
I have tackled this project before. You could use a rust converter such as Ospho (brand name, local paint store) to make the rust inert, but it turns the rust black. Looks cool, but If you don't want the look, use a wire bristle brush/scraper and sand to remove as much rust scale as possible and then seal with a rust-inhibitor clear coat (like Rustoleum, again, see local paint store). Chairs will continue to rust, but as expressed above, much slower. Your other option would be to forget the rust look, use Ospho on them, and then paint them with a DTM (Direct-to-metal) product. Ben Moore makes a wonderful one, you can get it in any color, and it's full of rust-inhibitors as well. Easy enough undertaking, good luck!
While the idea is correct, sandblasting is actually an antiquated term and not what you want. The more generic media blasting is what to ask for. Sand is actually very harsh for a metal surface. The chairs deserve a good finish once the rust is taken care and powdercoating as others have suggested would be ideal. Most of the time a good powdercoating business will clean/blast the chair for you so there would be no need in taking it elsewhere if you went this route.
If you want to DIY, use an angle grinder with a knotted steel wire brush to get the rust off. It will only take a couple of hours, and they will look brand new and be ready for a new coat of paint.
Rust will only continue to do damage if exposed to air. I never usually like the rusty look but these are cool. You could lightly sand/steel wool the rust areas then clear coat the entire chair. It will lock in the rust so it will not get on your clothes and seal out air to prevent further corrosion. Apart from that I agree with having them sandblasted however you will be left with a satin metal surface unlike the original metal finish. Please don't paint them... Good luck!
Get the rust off with a wire brush and then do a clear coat of rustoleum.