Q: I recently purchased a bookcase called BORGSJÖ by Ikea. It has glass doors on top and wood panel doors on the bottom. I'm not loving the dark brown color (it's much darker than the picture on the website). However, it is the only option that fits in my narrow hallway. I would like to paint the bookcase a light color (either a very light brown or spring green).
The bookcase has a glossy feel to it and is made of fiberboard, particleboard and foil. What is the best way to paint BORGSJÖ? The glossy feel of it makes me wonder if the paint would stick? My first thought is to sand it a little then prime and use exterior paint so that it will last. Did I guess right or is there a better way?
Sent by Allison
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After sanding, I would use a "high adhesive bonding primer". I've seen it at Lowes, etc and it's designed for glossy surfaces. I've used it with great success.
1.) Get a deglosser. You can find them at the home improvement store.
2.) Sand and prime
3.) Paint
Actually, the website says you don't have to sand after using the deglosser. I think I did anyway when I painted my kitchen cabinets.
Here's what you're looking for:
http://www.homedepot.com/buy/ready-strip-32-oz-safe-deglosser-68832.html#.UEZYmUJQZS8
Then, get a paint with primer in it or just paint and prime separately.
The chalk paint people would have you believe you can paint right over most anything with no sanding or priming. Worth some investigating.
For the paint coat, use a self-levelling gloss paint and a high quality brush
There is a really good primer called Stix. It's a waterborne bonding primer that I've used on furniture with great success. You just have to lightly sand beforehand. As with any primer, you can have it tinted to be close to the colour you're using so that it is easier to cover with your finish coat(s).
"Foil" is IKEA-sprech for verrrry verrry thin veneer. (Also, I think foil contains no actual wood, unlike veneers). On most IKEA furniture, it really is almost like leaf--just molecules thick. For that reason, and based on my own past experiences trying to paint over this stuff, I would recommend 2 things:
1) Don't sand. It'll just unevenly remove the foil layer, and then you'll never get it smooth. The previous suggestions to use a deglosser are good, but use it sparingly, because...
2) Don't get it too wet. Multiple thin coats of deglosser/paint, with plenty of drying time in between, are greatly preferable to getting the piece soggy with thicker coats. Furniture constructed with these materials is EXTREMELY sensitive to moisture, and can and will warp, crumble, and bow on you. And if you partially or completely disassemble the piece before painting, You will NEVER get it soggy, warped panels to slide back together again. Trust me on this.
That's my advice ! Good luck, and remember-- that's why the Scandinavian gods gave us IKEA-- fun with few consequences. They must love us a lot.
Agreed on the sanding -- I did this with a file cabinet and sanded until my hands were raw, and yes, you can see the unevenness from where there's still laminate/veneer underneath.
Centsational girl has a good post on painting laminate: http://www.centsationalgirl.com/2010/04/go-right-ahead-and-paint-that-laminate/
and fiberboard: http://www.centsationalgirl.com/2010/08/the-boys-dresser/
Couldn't you just spray paint it with Rustoleum all-surface paint? I know that's a lot of spray paint, but you'd avoid a lot of prep work and possible swelling of pressed materials. Glass panels can be removed or just masked. Hinges ditto.
We recently painted a Hemnes dresser for baby #2's nursery, and deglossing was not enough to make the paint adhere. It all flaked off in sheets and we ended up going with the big guns and using oil-based paint instead. It wears much better for furniture than latex anyway, so I'm not really sorry. I only wish we'd gone that route from the beginning.
Go to http://www.centsationalgirl.com she gives step by step instructions for painting IKEA furniture.
The answer is Annie Sloan Chalk Paint. Google it.
No priming. Easily applied even for the novice. You can even customize your color. Seal with a wax, then distress to your liking
I would use an oil-based primer (something like Zinsser Bullseye 1-2-3). I painted a laminate IKEA Billy bookcase using two coats of Zinsser primer and then just regular household paint that I had lying around. If you let the primer fully cure (the time should be on the can) before painting, you shouldn't have any problems with tackiness or flaking.
I did sand lightly, but I agree with Thatkris and Averymckenzie that IKEA's foil is difficult to sand evenly.
Good luck!
I just painted this very cabinet. Primer, paint, then I put a satin poly to keep it from scrataching. Worked like a charm and I love it.
Annie Sloan's Chalk Paint
QUESTION :
When painting Ikea furniture, has anyone tried painting the pieces BEFORE assembly, at least the interiors? Getting ready to do just this to a media cabinet with sliding glass doors that's been sitting around in my studio in a box for over 2 years because I can't decide about painting it and the espresso color was always going to be too dark for the room. I concur about the Zinsser primer and I don't think sanding would be necessary. I read that Krylon has a new spray paint in many pretty colors that will stick to anything, including plastic furniture, without a primer but I haven't used it yet.
Thanks.
I've used BIN primer in both brush on and spray. That stuff sticks to anything - no sanding needed. I once painted laminate kitchen cabinets with BIN. I dripped onto the shiny porcelain sink below. Just a drop. I couldn't get it off without damaging the sink, so it stayed there. ForEVER...
Chalk paint. No need to sand or prime. Mix 1 tsp unsanded grout with small amount of paint of your choice to make a smooth paste. Add 1 cup of paint. I use it all the time and it works great! Way cheaper than Annie Sloan chalk paint!
Oh, and after you've painted you can use Minwax paste wax to protect it.
I am never going to sand & prime ever again. Annie Sloan Chalk Paint, or CeCe Calwell's Chalk Paint. Really! Self priming. Paints any surface!
This chalk paint is sounding VERRRRRRY interesting! If you want a different gloss though, I agree with @THATKRIS and others - foil is just that, it's foil. Too thin to sand.
But @MILEHIGHDIVA's suggestion of the primer that Lowe's sells, I can vouch for that. I've seen it used on high-gloss bathroom tile, and you couldn't scratch it at all once it cured. Ditto for the "for-plastic" spray paints, though I found the top coat needed to cure for several days before you could no longer just scratch it off with a fingernail. I used the plastic spray paint on vinyl siding on my house (exterior) and then followed it with flat exterior latex, and after two years, there's not any problem at all.
Zinnser BIN primer! I used it on a bunch of Billy bookcases that I made into built ins. http://www.storefrontlife.com/from-billy-to-built-ins/ . DON'T scrimp on the primer. I learned the hard way and had to re-do it all!
Hey thanks Jraposa and AveryMcKenzie for the links! Yes, you can paint laminate, I've done it many times. You need a good bonding primer that adheres to glossy surfaces, Zinsser's Cover Stain is my favorite, it comes in spray or brush/roll on formulas. I recommend a disposable foam roller for application if using the quart/gallon product. After that, coat with your latex or enamel paint of choice. Annie Sloan Chalk paint is also great, no priming, you can even paint indoors, but it is more expensive an comes in limited colors. Either method works!!