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Good Questions: Where is the Paint Line; Where to Hang Curtain Rod?

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Dear Apartment Therapy, I just moved into a new apartment and we're planning to paint, however we have an odd architectural feature: there is no real line where the ceiling begins—the walls curve up into the ceiling. So we're trying to decided where we should stop the paint. We don't really want to paint the entire room, ceiling and all. Do we stop at, say, the tops of the windows and doors, or do we just pick a line where we think the ceiling starts and tape it off?...

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My next dilemma comes in my bedroom. The moldings around the window frames have a unique design, and I'm not sure where I should mount my curtain rods. I'm carrying over my old tab top Ikea curtains from my old bedroom, and I like a bit of darkness in the morning, plus I think it looks weird to have space between the tops of the curtains and the top of hte window. Any ideas?

Unfortunately, my camera is still packed away somewhere, so I attached cell phone pictures, which aren't great, but hopefully give you an idea of what I'm trying to figure out! Thanks, Michelle

Michelle, we would suggest dropping a paint line significantly lower than where the ceiling starts to give the illusion of a larger space by allowing the white of the ceiling to come down the walls a bit. This would avoid your dilemma altogether. Anyone else with advice for the painting or the curtain questions?

(Hey Boston! Send us your questions and Include a pic of your problem and your question gets posted first. Email questions and pics with QUESTIONS in subject line to:
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Comments (22)

In this case I would go ahead and paint the ceiling the same as the rest of the room. It would certainly be easier for you! There's no hard and fast rule saying you have to paint the ceiling a different color so go with what you like.

posted by Monica on September 23rd 2008 at 6:22am
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i think it's going to look weird if there's a forced line, definitely paint the ceiling

posted by madfish on September 23rd 2008 at 6:24am
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You can also add a crown moulding or whatever its called to mark the line - you can see it at the top of this picture - in fact it looks like the room even has the same cieling issue!

http://www.dominomag.com/galleries/rooms/bedroom/budget_bedroom?slide=1

posted by Clairepetrol on September 23rd 2008 at 6:31am
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oh, i think it may look interesting to paint that wall and the ceiling one color, and the other walls a coordinating color, maybe the same color in a lighter shade... that would break it up, so the room doesnt feel cocoon-ish.

posted by jln3681 on September 23rd 2008 at 6:38am
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The shadow line in the first picture seems the best place to do it. But I would keep both colors within the same family

posted by chusmabilly on September 23rd 2008 at 6:39am
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The standard for Victorian or Vernacular houses that have this type of issue is to stop paint at the level of high picture rail moulding, 12" to 18" from the ceiling (pick the middle of the curve toward the ceiling as your measuring point).

A more modern vairation on that standard is to make the paint line come just below the moulding a the top of the window, making the paint line level with the bottom of the flat (usually 1x4 or 1x6) board.

A thin 1" to 2" band of another paint color between the white and your paint color can also help define the area, but this is most effectively applied in period architecture where the windows have white trim and dark frames.

posted by JaxByDefault on September 23rd 2008 at 6:41am
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Paint the ceiling and hang the curtains from a ceiling track.

posted by hejiranyc on September 23rd 2008 at 6:41am
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My apartment has the same problem. We made a tape line where the straight part of the wall ends and the curved part served as our "faux crown molding." It looks fantastic.

posted by UWSretreat on September 23rd 2008 at 6:47am
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Our house has coved ceilings as well, but still have the rail to define ceiling from walls. the rail is a few inches below the top of the window/door trim. we've painted wall and ceiling the same colour (white!). It flows better, feels more spacious.

posted by bullyproofvest on September 23rd 2008 at 6:51am
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NO don't paint the ceiling the wall color! GAH

The poster talking about the picture railing is right if you want to paint in the "correct" place. I'd measure down and tape, its really a lovely effect and you're lucky to have such a detail in your home, enjoy! In fact, i'd even try to talk to the landlord about letting me re-install the picture moulding if i were you (then no more holes in the wall!)

For the tiny window i'd hang the curtians in line with the top of the window moulding... unless your tab tops actually have a pocket as well, I have a set that does. In that case run the rod through the pocket and fold the tabs over behind the curtians, I don't think tabs really work here but I applaud re-use.

posted by DahliaCactus on September 23rd 2008 at 6:51am
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P.S., you can get all sorts of moulings quite cheaply from any of the big box home improvement stores, and maybe even salvage.

posted by DahliaCactus on September 23rd 2008 at 6:52am
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Pt moulding up there, it not only looks nice and finishes off the room, but it will solve your problem.

posted by Tiffany on September 23rd 2008 at 6:53am
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I have the same situation. Ceilings are 9.5 ft., and I put a picture molding at 8 ft. Painted ceiling down to molding with photographer's white (sort of eggshell gleam), painted molding same as all woodwork (pale linen semigloss), and walls different colors in different rooms. I haven't grown tired of it in 12 years.

posted by beyd on September 23rd 2008 at 7:10am
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This is Michelle....thanks for all the suggestions! Unfortunately, putting up molding isn't an option with our landlady (also, I'm not a fan of adding it to an older house with existing original molding). From what people have said, I'm liking the idea of starting a lower paint line at picture rail or somewhere in the window level, so that the architectural feature won't be erased by one solid mass of paint...if we start low, we can always make the line higher if we don't like it!

As for the curtains, the other day I noticed pre-exisinting screw holes in the plaster that have been painted over. I'm probably going to use those for my curtain rod brackets and hope for the best!

posted by michpc on September 23rd 2008 at 7:13am
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If you can manage it, I would vote for shading the wall color lighter and lighter until at a point you can't quite determine, the color is gone and the wall has become ceiling.

posted by kuroneko on September 23rd 2008 at 7:15am
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I agree w/ the line 12-18" from the ceiling - and would encourage you to add a contrasting shaded line of color for a couple inches above that to help add interest.

As far as the windows - the old tab-tops need to go. Your windows are crying out for some inside-mount Roman Shades.

posted by bepsf on September 23rd 2008 at 7:17am
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Well, I was going to suggest this - http://www.blendmate.com/home.html - but you have a concave situation instead of a convex one. I haven't seen any kind of blending tool for that. You might have a problem creating a clean line if you decide to paint two distinct colors on the wall and on the ceiling. Even with painter's tape, it is likely that paint will seep under the edge in places. Good luck if you decide to go that route.

As far as the window situation, have you considered mounting your curtains outside the window molding? There is no rule that says the curtains can only just cover the window. You can use the curtains to trick the eye to think you have larger windows.

posted by BigD on September 23rd 2008 at 7:33am
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It might work to use a spray gun and blend the wall color into the ceiling color in some selected area between the two.

Another idea would be to use the wall color everywhere and then do a sky theme over it on the ceiling as appropriate for the room's flavor.

Finally, one might try to use a contrasting band of color between the two areas of the ceiling and wall color. The width of the band would be chosen as best includes the transition space details.

This may be an opportunity to be creative and very distinctive in your approach. If you can afford help, you might even consider hiring a professional for the more artistic details you wish to achieve.

It sounds like to me that you have a great opportunity. Best of luck.

posted by KitchM on September 23rd 2008 at 7:59am
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i think you should stencil in a gradient from the suggested paint line from AT to the ceiling curve. Do something of a halftone pattern that breaks from teh solid wall to the white ceiling. Something like this:
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a74/begraphics/grad.jpg

posted by wonderboy on September 23rd 2008 at 8:10am
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I live in New Mexico where lots of the houses have curved walls and this painting dilemma is common. I've seen some people put up moulding to demarcate the wall from the ceiling; usually it ends up looking a little heavy, especially if the ceiling is only 8'. I've also seen people paint the wall and ceiling the same color; it works just fine, especially if there's no moulding. But very common here is to see an accent color used on the wall paired with a white ceiling; the accent color definitely stops JUST BELOW the curve, not in the middle of the curve. Measure from the floor, tape a line, stand back, close one eye, and see how it looks. I've often found that by using a strong accent color on the wall and white on the ceiling, and stopping the accent color at the base of the curve where the wall meets the ceiling, the ceiling will appear higher.

posted by ddg425 on September 23rd 2008 at 9:43am
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I had kind of similar issue with my very modest bungalow. The old plaster walls were really meant to be papered and were pretty rough. It was impossible to cut a nice neat line between the ceiling and the walls. I dropped the ceiling color down on the walls about 4 inches. I hand cut the paint in without painters tape. I've done a lot of painting and have a steady hand. Now I have a neat edge and and it looks age appropriate. I have also had a house where the walls and ceiling were the same color and that also worked. I'd say how much light your rooms get and how dark your wall colors are should determine which way you go. Good luck!

posted by Annieo on September 23rd 2008 at 9:56am
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Annieo, any tips on getting a good un-smudged line? I don't think it will be a HUGE issue as we are planning on going with a lighter color (easy to paint over when we move out). But I know from experience that painter's tape isn't really all that great at making a smooth line.

posted by michpc on September 23rd 2008 at 11:06am
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