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How To: Remove Wallpaper / Hang Drywall
Transforming Dark Wood Panel, Part Two (We Need Your Help To Finish!)

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Last week we took you through a step-by-step guide for painting dark wood paneling and cabinets in our 1960's kitchen and hallway. This week we'll continue with Part Two: removing "wallpaper," hanging new drywall (yeah, you read that correctly), and trying to salvage a paint color nightmare. The key to home improvements is knowing when to say when, or — once you're in over your head — staying the course, no matter what. This is a story about the latter.

Follow the jump for a paint color survey and help us finally finish this job!

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Entering the Unknown
There are many methods for removing wallpaper, mostly dependent on what your wallpaper situation is. We would suggest beginning with the least invasive and go from there. A tip from This Old House said to use a spray bottle with a 50/50 mix of liquid fabric softener and water to soak the paper. This works like commercial wallpaper removers by causing the paste to release from the wall. In our case there was no soaking in — probably the first sign something was not quite right — but once we started pulling, the wall covering came off in big sheets very easily because it was vinyl, not paper. This tuned out to be the easiest step...unfortunately. More on ways to remove wallpaper here and here.

Staying the Course
What we found underneath the vinyl wall covering was a mixture of thick wallpaper paste, old plaster, torn wallpaper with plaster over it and generally a big uneven mess. No matter how much scraping and cleaning we did we realized we’d have to, at minimum, skim coat the entire wall to make it smooth enough to paint. But even then we worried that it would not adhere properly to the old wall and we’d be in an even worse situation. So, partly for practice and partly because it seemed simpler, we chose to hang new, thin sheets of drywall to make a nice, smooth new wall. If you’re gonna do it, do it right.

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Easy as 1, 2,...
It’s should be as easy as measuring, cutting, and screwing it to the wall — that is unless there’s brick behind your wall. Not only would our screws not go in, there was also nothing to securely anchor the wall to. A quick trip back to Home Depot for shorter screws and construction adhesive and we were back in business. We applied the construction adhesive on the back of the drywall in quarter size mounds (blobs hold better than lines because they act more like screws with large contact points). Our shorter screws held the drywall in place until the adhesive dried. We used 3/8” drywall because it was the thinnest we could get but 1/4” would have been adequate. More on hanging drywall here and here.

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Patience Makes Perfect
This is the part that takes a little finesse. Apply drywall tape between the joints, then mud over the whole thing to create the illusion of a continuous, flat wall. This takes time and patience as you progressively build up the wall. We did three passes — allowing each layer to dry completely before continuing (we did 1 per day). The first pass is 4” wide to embed the tape, the second is 6” wide and covers the tape, and the third is about 10” wide and feathers out across the wall. Do the same for the screw holes, inside and outside corners.

Having the proper tools definitely makes a difference even if it’s only in confidence. We bought a stainless steel mud pan and a 3 1/2”, 6”, and 10” wide knife. You can sand lightly between coats and do the major sanding at the end — this was the messiest part. We sealed the room off with plastic drop cloth, wore a mask and immediately cleaned the walls and floor to minimize dust covering the rest of our apartment.

Don't Cut Corners!
Caulk the joints between the trim and drywall to avoid cracking where the two materials can expand. It is important to prime new drywall because it seals the paper — otherwise you end up painting the mud and it soaks into the drywall paper. The walls we didn’t replace had to be cleaned multiple times with a sponge and warm water to get the wallpaper paste off. We primed them, also, to seal them and keep a consistent base.

Cost of buying, hanging, mudding and priming new drywall: $110 ($70 without tools)

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Paint: Do As We Say, Not As We Do
Now that you have beautiful, wallpaper-free, freshly mudded walls, TEST PAINT COLORS. Yes, yes, we here at AT make mistakes, too, and this is Wes & Kayla’s. We’ve been lucky with paint in the past and haven’t always painted test swatches. This is a window-less hallway with a single overhead light and we should have been more cautious. We’d like the hallway to be “yellow” — what we now know is that rich, orange yellows (like Ralph Lauren’s Mango Gold) can be OVERWHELMING in confined, window-less hallways. Half a coat in and we realized we now had a hallway only Big Bird could love...

Help Us Fix Our Paint Color!
On the left you will see the current color of our hallway. Here’s what we hate about it: its too orange, too saturated and too bright (it glows). Here’s what we would like: a “yellow” that is pleasant, colorful but softer (without looking like a nursery school). We have left the closet unpainted wood on purpose, for now. After more research, we’ve decided the solution is to go greener. Our favorite options are on the right.

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You can see a more flattering Mango Gold in Jason and Ryan's Colorful Combination.

Mark Chamberlain wrote a Color Therapy post on Sweet Pear here.

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How To..., paint, plaster, drywall, removing wallpaper

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Comments (9)

To me, all those colors are more orange than yellow, though I know that color differences in monitors can be what I'm seeing--instead of paint.

If it's any comfort, we made paint mistakes just a few months ago, ending in the kitchen being painted three (yes, *three*) times. Part of it was the fault of a Sherwin-Williams associate who told us some things about a paint that were not true (like that a bottom-line contractor paint was "just as good, and no different" than the top-line DIY paint) and part of it was our fault for not testing paint swatches. We'll never do that again!

posted by Sprouted in the Kitchen on November 19th 2008 at 3:38pm
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What?
Choosing a paint color based on what you see in a picture of someone else's apartment doesn't work?

IMO - Yellows are the MOST DIFFICULT color to get right because it bounces the light everywhere - You always have to go a tone or two lighter than you think because yellow's reflectivity makes the color more intense when all 4 walls are painted that color.

You'll have to prime over that yellow no matter what choice you make - otherwise it will show through the next shade. I'd choose a nice soothing Prussian Blue for your entryway - the last thing anyone needs when coming home from a rough day at the office is to be slammed with a startling bright color when first walking in the door.

posted by bepsf on November 19th 2008 at 4:17pm
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Kayla here -

Brief side note: this is not our entryway (we don't use that door), its just a hallway. Also, every other room in our apartment is some form of blue or gray so we'd like this little pocket to be different...

posted by bostonkayla on November 19th 2008 at 4:29pm
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My vote is the Cypress Grove. The Golden Delicious is going to do almost the exact same thing as your original color, and the Sweet Pear is going to look dingy. At least, that's what it reads like on my monitor. I think the Cypress Grove will be a little more cohesive with the colors you mentioned you have in the rest of your place.

Best drywalling tips ever are at: www.drywallschool.com - I learned so many time-saving things, and felt more confident. Great tip on smoothing out texture: Mix the mud with enough water so it has a pancake-batter consistency, use a roller to get it up on the wall, then use a long tape knife to smooth it out. I had horrible "orange peel" with about 10 coats of paint on it, and I got rid of it in a day. Also, very little sanding!

Your kitchen looks amazing, btw. Congratulations.

posted by mysoultokeep on November 19th 2008 at 4:54pm
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I'm impressed - the kitchen and now this? Good job you guys. Very inspiring. Good luck with the new paint color - hope it turns out and I hope you post pics. --Tara :)

posted by tara1979 on November 19th 2008 at 5:49pm
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At the risk of being roasted like a luau pig I'll offer the following non-constructive comment: I like the look of the stripped wall before the drywall went up. It has a patina and richness, like what one might see in Havana or Prague, that makes a good contrast with the new renovation. There is a painterly quality to the textured surface and compositionally it's quite good for the space.

I know that the owners don't like it and it's theirs to do (to have done, since it's done) with as they choose, but if I had found such an unexpected treasure, I would have scraped off any loose bits, applied a couple of coats of paste wax and called it a day. Softly lit, with maybe a B&W photo in the left space, it would be a unique installation illustrating the building's relationships over time.

posted by amed studio on November 19th 2008 at 8:46pm
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My favorite yellow is Montgomery White by Benjamin Moore. Very soft and soothing.

posted by leepert on November 20th 2008 at 9:10am
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so inspiring what you've done; don't stop now. i vote for sweet pear: warm and bright but not in your face

posted by formosagirl on November 20th 2008 at 11:58pm
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This probably doesn't help, but we painted our living room Benjamin Moore Goldfinch, which I think is a warm yellow without being overbearing. Our living room is on the north side of the house, so it never gets a lot of daylight.

during the day:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/extramundane/295710284/in/photostream/

at night:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/extramundane/295710044/in/photostream/

I'm not very good at picking paint colors - from your choices above, I think I would pick the middle one, Sweet Pear. Good luck!

posted by ace on November 22nd 2008 at 6:40pm
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