apartment therapy changing the world, one room at a time

The most important function in my mind is a needle that always stops in the up position. Way less bobin jamming, other than that computerized stich selection is cool... but less important.

I have an OLD (1930's) singer table machine, the only stitches it has are forward and backward. I love it, and the level of simplicity makes it really hard to muck up.

As for those who want something new: look for quality, not low price. A low quality sewing machine will drive you BONKERS; you'll hate it and never ever sew.

As an accomplished dressmaker, I'd like to strongly advise against the machines noted above. These are the equivalent of recommending that a novice at DIY home improvement go out and buy the cheapest power drill available to them. After just a little bit if use, you'd become frustrated with the lack of power or the cheap quality and wish you hadn't wasted your money -- or worse, become totally discouraged at installing shelves or whathaveyou on your own and give up completely.

If you're ready to invest in a power tool to get the job done right, shop for a mid-range product.

Stitch functions sounds exciting, but in reality 99% of your sewing will be a simple straight stitch. Don't get sucked in to that detail. Same with automatic needle threading, etc.

What you do want:

--A motor with the power to drive the needle through 3-layers of upholstery fabric (think hems).

--Easy and quality buttonholes (this is a zig-zag stitch and the machine is programmed to make the buttonhole automatically for you)

--Speed control. You don't want a machine that sews too slow, or too fast, and you want to be able to control the speed easily with the pedal or with a manual throttle.

--Easy-to-change needles. And for the love of sewing, please be sure you're using the right size needle for the fabric you're using!! this will make a night/day difference in a succsessful project.


Skip JoAnne's and go to a local sewing machine shop. Get the best *used* machine you can afford. And play with several models using sample fabric. Take the machine through some of the basic steps you'd do at home.

I have the Singer that's the last one pictured. It replaced a much beloved machine I'd had since childhood. I've put it through its paces for a year or so - everything from quilting, to sewing my own clothes. It's no Bernina, but it's a good value, has a bunch of different stitches, and the automatic buttonholer is very convenient. So far it's held up quite well. No complaints.

If you're starting out, I highly recommend a class or two. I took several from my sewing machine store and it gave me a good footing to tackle more advanced projects and teach myself from there on.

my mom has had the same kenmore since the 70's. so when i bought my own machine, i went kenmore too. i have the model just below that $199 model shown above - it looks the same. i approve that machine.

This might be an odd question but how much space do you need for sewing. I have been wanting to take up sewing but put it off because I don't think I have enough room in my home office.

What is a good size table and what else do you need for a sewing area.

Can these sewing machines featured here sew heavier fabrics like upholstery?

This is a great post. I've been polling the message boards at work and looking online and there doesn't seem to be very consistent advice re: brands.

kimg has the best advice.......

Ha, I'm at the same point in my life too...ready to rediscover sewing! I bought a refurbed brother sewing machine off Overstock last week for a little over $100. It had really great reviews and you can't sneeze at the price. I thought a refurb would be a good way to go for me because I didn't want to spend a ton of money on a machine I may not use as much as I *think* I'm going to use, plus it still has good mid-range quality to it but at a fraction of the price.

I just started sewing on my grandmother's machine after a class last weekend at The Needle Shop in Chicago. Love the old machine, and cannot recommend The Needle Shop strongly enough. The fabrics are a little more precious than I like, but the course was unbelievable. Well worth the money.

I received a new Singer Inspiration (probably one of the less expensive of the models) as a gift and I had only had it 9 months and used it a handful of times when it jammed up so badly that I had to have it repaired at a service shop. Before you buy a Singer, look into whether there are any shops in the area that service under warranty. I was in Philadelphia at the time and I would have had to drive many hours to the nearest service center. After having it repaired for nearly $100 I had more issues when the bobbin case broke. I purchased a new one and then it broke again. Needless to say, a couple angry letters to Singer later, I was sent a shipping label and was able to exchange for a new one.

*I wish I would have bought an older used machine...

I bought a little refurbished Kenmore machine off eBay - after some fruestrating fits and starts (oiling the machine and getting some proper needles helped) it does just fine for hemming curtains and the like.

"how much space do you need for sewing."

If all you're doing is some hems, your breakfast table will suffice. If you're cutting things out with patterns, etc - you'll need a larger table - or a wide & very clean clean floor - to work on.

"The most important function in my mind is a needle that always stops in the up position."

Funny enough, I hate that function. How are you supposed to quickly turn sharp corners or curves if you have to dial down the needle every time into the fabric?

My grandmother borrowed a friend's machine to do some quick sewing on some table decoration squares, and you should have heard her yell at the machine for always stopping with the needle up...

I second KIMG's recommendations! I bought a 1950's Pfaff 332, and I LOVE IT. It has an incredibly powerful motor, and has all metal construction. It's a work horse and reminds me of very high end powertool. I paid $150 for it and took it to my local sewing/vacuum shop and had a full tune up.

What kimg924 said :o)

And I love my 25 year-old Pfaff. You can't go wrong with German engineering. It has the "always stops with the needle up" feature, but has a button you can push if you want it do stop in the down position, which is so great when sewing around corners and curves.

As for space, the machine itself doesn't require much, it really depends on what you'll be sewing. For quilts, drapes and other large items, it will obviously be easier to have a larger surface. And also remember that successful sewing is as much about precise cutting and pressing as actually stitching on the machine, so you'll need ample space to cut out and a good iron and ironing board.

kim924 is right. A beginner doesn't need a zillion fancy functions.

My husband bought me a rather expensive machine as a gift, but it was so complicated I never figured out how to use it. I finally gave it away.

All I want to do is hem curtains and make cushions and other one-straight-seam projects. It shouldn't take a 20 page manual to do that.

Ok, so I have a lot to say on this subject:

I'm a seamstress/tailor in Minneapolis and I also teach private sewing lessons, and I get asked this question a lot!

I agree with kimg924 above. I would strongly recommend you do NOT get any of the above machines!!! In fact, stay as far away from newer model Singers as possible; they are utter junk. I grew up using a Kenmore from the 70's and have used current Kenmore models and feel that they continue to be quality machines, still made with metal bodies in most cases which is rare these day. They can really power through several layers of denim without breaking the needle. One of my students had the $89 Kenmore and it worked well for the mose part but the button hole attachment was F-ed up!

Currently I have a Necchi, model 3434D and I wouldn't give her up for the world. She is such a work horse! Made entirely of metal which gives it a good weight to prevent it from jiggling around as you sew at higher speeds. Look for a Necchi at a used sewing machine shop or from a dealer. Won't find them at JoAnns.

For a beginner I recommend going to a sewing machine/vac store and getting a nice refurbished used machine. Some of the best machines I've used were Vikings from the 1970's. Skip the 50 different seam options; you'll never use them. Get a machine with 5-10 stitches. Also, get a front-loading bobbin rather than top loading. Although it takes a bit to get the hang of loading it at first, when something gets tangled or jammed you have much more control and access to the mechanics. Look for a machine with traditional control nobs for stitch length and stitch width. Many newer machines try to combine functions like these in an effort to make things "easier" but you end up having much less control once you've learned the basics.

I have a Brother, picked the brand after some recommendations from sewing friends. It is at the $100-$150 price range. After a year plus of sewing with it, making everything from baby clothes to reupholstering a chair its been totally fine for me (and sews just fine through many layers, makes button holes, etc)

great post. thanks kimg for the advice - very comprehensive :-) and also kaete - i'll use all of the advice except for the "up" position.

I agree with the other posters arguing against the cheapy machines listed - I went through 2 of them before I wised up and got a 70's Viking - the new love of my life! All metal, solid, reliable, cute, and can sew though almost anything.

I recommend checking out Zigzaggers: "The low-down on used sewing machines, from crafty people with first-hand experience sewing on them" Great, honest reviews from crafters.

- Then head over to ebay. Re-Use!

http://zigzaggers.typepad.com/

"how much space do you need for sewing?"

It depends on whether you want to leave everything out all the time, or are willing to pack up when you're done. I have a spare bedroom as my "studio space." But I've also been able to keep all my supplies and machine stashed in a china cabinet.

For most projects, you'll want the same ergonomics as a computer workspace. That is, your elbows and forearms should bend and rest at a 90 degree angle. You need a good chair and table surface at the correct height. If your shoulders are raised or if you have to hunch over, your neck and back will ache. For most people, a 28" to 29" tall table will work. Round tables are not great for sewing, but if that's all you have, then that's where you sew.

Best general sewing book available: Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing. Get a used 1970's edition for about $3 and skip the $50 new edition. The only "new" content is the photos.

Top 10 Essential Sewing Tools:
1. For your machine: bobbins, machine needles in various sizes, small screwdriver, machine oil
2. Shears – a.k.a. large, sharp scissors. Cut only fabric and thread with them; paper will dull the blades.
3. Small scissors for snipping threads
4. Seam ripper
5. Measuring tape (retractable are my favorite)
6. Straight pins (my fav have the big jewel-toned balls on the end)
7. Hand-sewing needles, and thimbles if you’re a hemophiliac
8. Steam iron & board
9. Tailors chalk
10. Fabric and thread (my favorite thread is Gutterman)


Non-essential but very-nice-to-haves
11. Rotary cutting blade and self-healing cutting mat (not required but a major plus if you’re cutting shapes for appliqué or making clothing)
12. Pattern weights (again, not required – you can use canned vegetables)
13. Button hole spacer – these are great for equidistant marking for buttons, hooks, snaps, holes, trim, etc.
14. Seam roll and pressing ham (no, these are not food!)
15. Various feet for your sewing machine, e.g., rolled hem, invisible zipper, etc.

http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00133.asp
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00130.asp

Great sewing machine comparison chart and machine comparison articles.

I saw that Consumer Reports is doing a test of sewing machines and I believe it's to be coming to newsstands this mornth as the March issue.

Might want to check that out. there are 2 kinds of machines, electronic and purely mechanical out there (the mechanical ones have actual dials).

I am going to be looking at one that's not terribly fancy but can sew on shirt buttons and make button holes when needed and can do a zig, zag or a blanket stitch and a handful of other basic stitches outside fo the straight stitch but nothing complicated.

I'll be checking that article out myself.

In general, I'd agree with the "get a refurbished machine" comments above BUT, just wanted to add that I got an entry level Singer a year ago and haven't had a single problem. I have sewed canvas curtains, shopping totes, zippers, stretch fabrics, even repaired my hockey pants (!), you name it and have yet to have a problem.
I also like having the needle stop in the fabric as well to do corners (this one doesn't do that).
The only problem that I can see with mine is that if I were older or didn't have good eyesight, threading the needle might be an issue (and I don't think the threader option really helps all that much).
Easy bobbin winder, nice free arm (I highly recommend a machine with a free arm), responsive foot pedal. I love my machine. It also packs away easily so the desk I use can be changed from computer desk to sewing desk quite easily.

kimg and laurabelk gave great advice.

If you can get an older refurb'd machine, then do it. They're solid workhorses. Unfortunately, my sister laid claim to mom's machine and I had to hunt for a new one. Ended up with a simple Janome machine and LOVE it.

You rock, kimg. Great advice.

I have to agree with the refurb/old stories here! I have two 1970s machines, and each of them is twice the new Singer my folks got me a few years ago. With a little service, they both worked far better than the new one. I also like the heft of the older models... you should be able to throw them down the stairs and only have to worry about the stairs! No more of this plastic silliness!

Also, buying used is a great way to recycle!

The two seamstresses above have GREAT advice.

I come from a long line of seamstresses (we're talking several centuries back!), being only an "above average" one myself though, and have a Pfaff 1030 that's now about ten years old. It's great. The best advice I could add is to try out a machine before you buy it, using contrasting top and bottom threads. Do a straight stitch, take out the fabric you've sewn and take a good, hard look at the stitching. Is it even? Is the tension regular throughout? (There should be no loops formed, and the bottom and top threads should be balanced, not "poking through" the other side, so long as the tension was set correctly for the fabric used.) Modern Singers I've tried out never have regular tension, which means they're simply not built well and will wear out much faster than higher-quality machines.

My ~30 year old Kenmore is super. Has a buttonholer (a bit more complicated than new machines, but functional) and a few cheesy decorative stitches (made with inserted cams) that I never use, but it does the basic home dec stuff really well. A used one is usually a good find.

As for space, I got myself a 4' plastic folding table from Lowes that fits behind the door when not in use. I can cut projects out on the floor or on a bed (as long as I am super carefult to not destroy the bedding! ;^) ) The tools and fabrics go into closets. So you don't need a huge amount of space unless you leave everything set up. A Quilter friend just has the end of her guest room to work in, and she makes gorgeous stuff. (She uses the bed to lay out her designs, unless someone is visiting...)

I love talking about sewing. If anyone wants to contact me to discuss this stuff, you can reach me at kimg924@gmail.

I definitely would not recommend any of the under $100 machines found in Target or WalMart. They are not well made at all. Definitely check out Zigzaggers, and then look on Craig's List or the newspaper or Pennysaver for something decent. I have a 30 year old Bernina 801 that doesn't have any of the fancy stuff, but it has been a real workhorse for me. I sew everything on it. If you want to buy new, go to a fabric store that sells machines and try them out. I wouldn't go too expensive until you have an idea how much sewing you'll actually be doing. Also, sometimes places that repair sewing machines will have some used ones to sell.

I have a Janome which I love because it's arm can be raised for thick furs and fabrics - I make soft sculptures and puppets a lot so that feature was super important. You can also control the speed which is very important.
Good luck!

Just want to echo the sentiments on older machines and all-metal construction. I have a 70s era Singer which is wonderful, but it's still not powerful enough for really heavy duty stuff. I use my mother's 70s era Viking for thick denim, upholstery, or tent repair.

Buy an old machine. I have a vintage kenmore from the 70's and love it.

Go to a real sewing machine shop. Not only are you supporting a local mom and pop shop, you would be amazed at how helpful they can be!! You can try out machines, borrow or rent them to make sure it's what you want, and many offer classes included with your purchase to help you learn how to use it. It's also great to build a relationship with the shop for when your machine needs servicing. Keep in mind that a good machine should be serviced at least once every one to two years to keep it in good working order.

It's not hard at all to sew and it's very satisfying to be able to say you made something. I've made slipcovers, pillows, ottomans, quilts, drapes, etc. The larger your project, the more room you'll need (think about the fabric bunched up on the table). But the majority of my sewing I've done at the kitchen table.

yes I agree about going to a real sewing machine shop. the expertise there is worth the trip!

I have a brother pacesetter. it was about $200 8-9 years ago and sews very smoothly - barely have to push to get a straight line. would highly recommend!

I just learned how to sew last year and I love my Janome

this is good for basic sewing:
http://www.allbrands.com/products/abp14099-1583.html

I too have a Janome - which I bought because I'm a fibre artist and ask my machine to sew unspeakable things. I originally learned on my mother's Elna. Both machines were basic and a million times more dependable than my friends machines. Definitely avoid fancy features. I test drove the machine - forwards, reverse, threaded it and the bobbin, made sandwiches of weird materials to shove through and tried to purposefully gum up the works in the store. It made all the difference when making a choice.

I paid about $400 dollars and it has paid for itself a couple of times just through usefulness. (This year I made bags at x-mas for all my gifts.)

Good luck on finding your dream machine.

I took a sewing class at a local store and we learned on Janomes -- very easy to use. One girl brought a machine her mom bought her (a new Singer, much like those above) and it broke/got stuck about an hour into the class, which would make me wary of buying one.

Don't rush into your purchase and make sure you try out every machine you're considering. Kimg's advice is very comprehensive -- listen to her!

As for thoughts on brands, I have a 1970s Bernina Nova and I love it. It's a very basic machine with only 7 stitches and a buttonhole function, but it works extremely well on different types of fabrics and is perfect for a beginner. Old Berninas can cost as much as new machines, but you might find a reasonably priced used one on Craigslist and get it tuned up.

A caveat for those of you considering buying vintage: after doing much research my husband purchased a Bernina Record 830 (considered by many to be the gold standard of sewing machines of the 1970's) off of eBay for me for my Christmas present. I didn't have an opportunity to use it until almost a month later when it became clear that there were some mechanical issues at play. After dropping it off with an experienced Bernina repair person I was informed that it was 'unrepairable', but by that time it was too late to return it to the buyer and eBay wouldn't/couldn't get involved. I've just brought it to a different repair person for a second opinion but the outcome my be the same.

So, while I totally agree with going vintage, do yourself a favor and make sure you test it/have it looked at immediately (or at least within the return timeframe) and if the seller says 'it works' but 'as is', look for another seller.

Marymarymary, so sad to hear that the Bernina you purchased on ebay didn't work out for you. That is the risk with used machines. Thanks for sharing your lesson with everyone here. I'm glad that you're still for trying out old ones with the caveat of getting them tested quickly.

It is heartening to see so much good advice being offered here by experienced sewers. I have been through many different makes and ages of machines as a result of working at many different theatre and dance costume shops in my line of work, as well as from home experience, and I'd echo what many have said here: go for metal as opposed to plastic parts, which is why the older machines are often great, because newer, cheaper models incorporate much more plastic, which will warp, become brittle, and crack over time.

As for brands, I grew up with an old Singer in my mom's home and remained faithful to the brand when I bought my first machine of my own, but my training and professional work converted me into a Bernina devotee. The brand isn't as important as the machine's durability and functionality, but working Berninas are a safe bet if you can afford them. My students like them (we have 10 Bernina home sewing machines in my shop) because they are user-friendly and the symbols on the controls are rather intuitive once you learn the basics. And they can really take a beating from my students when they are just learning how to use the machines and don't yet understand that a big crunching noise means you should stop sewing and check on the poor machine.

Something else that may have been been briefly touched upon earlier: unless you're planning on doing some major machine embroidery or fancy stitches, don't go for the souped-up computerized machine with a computer screen built-in. Not only are they a hassle to learn, but if you have to get it repaired, it can cost a ridiculous amount of money if there is computer software involved in the problem. I recently did a summer gig at a theatre where the well-intentioned company founders bought two new machines of that nature. It was heart-breaking because it seemed like such a waste, but we didn't want to seem ingrateful or make them feel bad, so we sucked it up and used the wimpy computerized machines.

And yeah, I hate those computerized machines where the needle always stops out of the fabric rather than stopping wherever it was when I took my foot off the foot pedal, because usually it means that the machine will take an extra stitch after I have taken my foot off the pedal, which is really annoying if I'm trying to carefully pivot around the corner of a collar or pocket or the like.

Happy stitching!

I have used every type of machine from my vintage 1912 singer handwheel to the most modern computerised models (I used to sell them!) and most modern machines are rubbish as they are made of plastic - they are so light that they vibrate and you can never get a proper straight line - for topstitching you need a really good, straight line - if at all possible get a machine with a metal body - you may have to heft it around a bit but the quality of your sewing will be far superior.

All the above advice is great - things I personally look for are the widest zig-zag stitch possible - and an excellent buttonhole stitch - this is vitally important as it is stitching that is VISIBLE - you can get away with stitching a seam a bit wonky but wonky buttonholes scream homemade.

Definitely try out some machines if possible before you buy - and don't accept a sticky presser foot - it should press down and change speed smoothly without suddenly jerking to a faster speed and running away with you.

As for space you don't actually need much - I have a fold-up board:
http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog.jsp;jsessionid=HN1UVX5LLPWOOP4SY5GVAFJ50LD3OUPU?CATID=cat3351&PRODID=prd48124&_requestid=1226264
that I open up on one of my double beds and use it to cut out the fabric - then it gets put away in a cupboard
The sewing machine is on a table that is no more than 1m x 0.5m - remember that you'll need more room at the "business" end of the machine so don't position it in the middle of the table - place it to the right-hand side as you want more table on the left to balance the fabric you're working on.

For curtains of any decent size there really is no option but to push all the fabric back and cut out the fabric on the floor - the last pair I made that are not even floor length took the whole of the floor in an empty bedroom - curtains take a lot of room!

Lots of great advice in the comments section on buying a sewing machine - however, as an absolute beginner, I can't try out sewing machines in a shop because I don't know how to use one AT ALL. What I want to do is to buy a sewing machine and then take a few classes before I start trying to hem curtains, make pillowcovers, and complete other simple projects.

All that said, would it be wise for me to buy one of the sewing machines that Consumer Reports recommends? CR recommends the Kenmore 15358 as the best "basic sewing machine."