apartment therapy changing the world, one room at a time

first of all, I'd really want to see more pictures, but from the one you've provided, I can only a little bit of advice.

Like AT said, if you're concerned with the value of the table, get a pro to do it. other than that, wood glue may work, but it is fairly slow drying and you would need a good way to clamp the part in place while it dries (at least 4 hours to fully cure). from the looks of it, that's not an option. You could try some "gap filling" model glue. it's a 2-part application (glue and catalyst) but it dries almost instantly and is ridiculously strong. obviously, do it with some test pieces first before "going for the gold." as far as the visible gap is concerned, I would try to find a piece of wood that closely matches the table and then glue that in to place. I wouldn't use wood putty or trust wood glue to fill the gap.

good luck.

Not having a picture of the wobbly leg or how it is originally attached giving advice on this is difficult. Most danish modern pieces have detachable legs. I would first remove the leg and fill the joint partially with wood glue and toothpicks. This acts as a wood filler. Do not use a puddy type wood filler (elmers) for joint applications, they are meant for surface restoration only. The toothpicks are a more stable solution and will fill in an holes and should fix the wobbliness in joints.

As for the chip on top, I would buy a stain pen. Stain the visible edge where chipped piece a broke on both the piece itself AND the place it broke off on the cabinet. Do not stain on the interior section of the chip (only on the outer edge) as the stain may prevent the glue from drying properly. Place a small amount of glue on the broken section and cover the surface where the chip occurred. wipe off any excess glue and hold in place firmly with tape. Come back to it in 15-20 minutes remove tape and scrape of any glue you missed or may have leaked out of the crack.

Most of Jens Risoms pieces are mortise & tenoned together, or dowel pegged. Wood glue will repair any wood to wood contact and will actually be stronger than the wood itself. However, you need to clamp it firmly for hours, and then you will need to scrape off any squeeze out, and then use wood filler for the chipped area.

Obviously a pro is going to do a good job, but you can DIY if you're handy. I just glued a busted Risom lounge chair (odd coincidence) last week and its holding strong.

If the movers broke it - Why are you DIY-ing it?

Take it to a professional for a proper repair and send the bill to the lousy movers.

I agree with Modfan. I'm a furniture maker and I would suggest using regular yellow wood glue ("titebond") providing that there are no gaps in the joint. If there are gaps in the joint, use a colored epoxy. You can buy epoxy for $5 from the hardware store and color the glue with RIT dye (also purchased for a few bucks at the drug store). No matter what type of glue you use, make sure that you use clamps while the glue dries (you can buy clamps at the hardware store). I would suggest wiping away any excess glue before it dries (for certain if you use epoxy) or you run the risk of scratching the finish when you scrap away the dry glue.

If there is a visible chip on the surface, you can try filling it with the same type of wood with grain in the same direction. In order to do this properly, you'll most likely need to make a cut into the chair before inserting the wood (to insure that you have a tight fit between the chip and the new piece of wood). You should probably have a furniture maker fix the chip. If it's not that bad, do what comic geek says and stain the piece.

If you need to sand the joint after you scrap off the glue, you can refinish the area in just that spot using a small amount of Tung Oil and mineral spirits on a rag. This type of application is very easy.

Good luck! :)