Last week we talked about getting your drivers, plans and wood together. This week we are going to actually build. These are comparatively easy to build in the world of speakers and if you follow the instructions, they are just boxes with some added little parts inside. Follow along...
Again, this design is owned by commonsenseaudio.com and we can’t give away everything so you will have to buy their products to make their box.
Now that you have your wood cut out from Home Depot or wherever- remember- no holes, just panels, it is time to assemble everything as directed by the instructions. There are a couple of ways of doing this within the dimensions of the box but if the fronts and backs are the same dimensions and the sides are all the same dimensions, you will have an easier time setting them up. Not a big deal, just something to plan for, if you can.
In the image to the left, we see clearly that these youths are in the mood for destruction. We, on the other hand, are Creators. Designers. Builders. Patriots. It is important to remember that we are making something beautiful and that we need to put our hearts into the task. We will do right by our pile of wood.
As mentioned last week, we reused some MDF from some stuff we found discarded after a presentation at a local college. We needed to cut and paste it all together to meet the dimensional requirements. Some of it had some water damage and had to be sanded down a bit. See above for the ugliness. Totally fine, it will all be covered up and the story just adds to the spirit in all things, Amen.
To get good clamping power that provides even pressure over the entire box, put a screw in every six inches or so along every seam. Bear in mind that you will need to drill pilot holes for your screws so that they don’t crack the wood when you screw them in. In the top piece of any given joint, you will have to drill a hole that is large enough for the screw to pass through without having to turn it through. In the bottom piece, you will have to make the hole smaller so you need to turn the screw through with force. This arrangement provides clamping action during gluing so you won’t need clamps to put it together. Take a look at the image above for clarification.
The image above is another angle which explains countersinking. It also shows an actual countersink in the bottom, right corner. You will have to countersink all your holes so that the screw heads hide below surface level. This will allow you to fill the tops in with spackle or wood filler and sand them flush with the surface … unless you want the screws to show, which is your god-given right.
When you are ready to screw it all together, start with one side meeting another. Apply glue (titebond 111, or equivalent) to BOTH parts where they will touch and smear it over the whole contact area. Then quickly screw all the screws in on that joint such that glue starts to squeeze out. You should really tighten this as much as possible. Then wipe off excess glue with a damp rag and move on to another side, building on what you have. You should put the tops and bottoms on it when you have finished the 4 sides (per speaker). It will look like a solid box now. To speed up the drying process, try staring at it intently. Don’t do anything else until it dries.
Up until this point it is really a one person job but it is good to have a second set of tentacles to help hold things together while gluing and screwing… not to mention a second set of eyes to help it dry.
Tune in next week for cutting holes and finishing work.