Last week we discussed the brilliant designer Eva Zeisel, born November 13, 1906. What else was going on in 1906? The San Francisco Earthquake struck, the first radio broadcast was aired, the muffuletta was invented in New Orleans, and a lady named Mrs. Frank Learned published The Etiquette of New York To-Day, a handbook for high society. In honor of Entertaining month at Apartment Therapy, let's look at Mrs. Learned’s tips on dinner party customs and etiquette from yesteryear.
Our lifestyle has changed dramatically since 1906 — and we should be mostly thankful. The assured dictates of the etiquette book only thinly conceal a deep anxiety: the more rules there are, the easier it is to make a mistake. Our anything-goes culture is much more forgiving of even the gravest missteps — WHAT would Mrs. Learned have thought of, say, starlets unable to modestly exit a limousine?! — and is generally founded on a more egalitarian worldview vis-à-vis class and sex.
That said, there is still something to learn from the rigid expectations of the past, when people were bound by etiquette to treat one another thoughtfully and to keep their panties on. Here are some genuine gems from Mrs. Learned herself (with page numbers). I’ll let you decide which ones are still relevant today:
On the prompt RSVP: “The first duty when receiving an invitation … is to reply immediately” (224)
On the importance of dinner parties even when one is not loaded: “True hospitality is not in inviting guests to a lavish display of flowers, viands and wines, with the object of astonishing them by such profusion. Life will be robbed of much of its good cheer if we hesitate to bring people together because we can be neither magnificent nor wonder-making hosts. A well-cooked, well-served dinner where a few congenial friends are assembled, may be delightful.” (78)
All that glitters is not gold: “Hospitality is not in giving elaborate feasts or displaying fine furnishings, costly gowns and jewels, but is the sweet and noble practice of receiving and entertaining guests in genuine liberality, and this liberality is not merely in material things but in the heartfelt and inspiring kindness which gives to hospitality its true meaning and value” (218).
Appointing the dinner table: “Table linen must be white, spotless and of finest damask, glass sparkling, silver and cutlery well polished … As a general rule three forks are at the left, and at the right are one or two steel-bladed knives and a silver knife, if there is to be a fish course. A tablespoon to be used for soup is at the right of the knives, and an oyster fork, if oysters on the shell are to be served; an orange spoon, if grapefruit is to be served” (63-4).
On a good handshake: “The manner of shaking hands expresses much or little, as the case may be. There is the cordial, the honest, the indifferent, the inert, the affected, the exaggerated way of shaking hands, all being suggestive of character. The friend who takes our hand cordially and looks straight into our eyes produces a feeling that the owner of the hand has a warm heart. The person who extends a limp, weak, lifeless hand and looks over one’s shoulder is not a person on whom to depend in an emergency” (97).
On being a gentleman (and a mama’s boy): “A well-bred man is free from arrogance; he is courteous, unpretentious, natural, simple, unaffected – in a word, true. He is considerate in his feelings, polite and kind to his inferiors as to his equals … He is chivalrous towards women and reverences their sex because he bears in mind his love and respect for his own mother” (103).
Smoking at parties: “A guest does not smoke without being asked to do so by the host” (106).
On note-writing: “Neglect of the art of note-writing may be traced directly to the haste in which we live in the present day. The telegram and telephone are tempting to many persons who will not take time to concentrate their minds or trouble to express their thoughts in careful language” (192).
On thank you notes: “The best rule is to write the notes with as little delay as possible, before the feeling of pleasure in the receipt of gifts has subsided. It is well to mention the gift definitely — the charming clock, the beautiful silver dish, the attractive cut-glass vase, the handsome lamp, the lovely piece of silver. People like to have their gifts specialized, and adjectives of enthusiasm are allowable” (198).
On conversation: “Subjects to be avoided are private affairs, illness, servants, food, money, dress, household difficulties, disagreeable happenings, grievances … One must renew constantly one’s stock of varied subjects of interest. It is even allowable to ‘cram’; that is, read up subjects and be able to introduce them deftly, and thus be prepared with something to say” (206-7).
Who knew: “Tea gowns are not worn at teas” (248).
On age-appropriate dress: “Women who have passed their first youth are careful to study the style of dress adapted to their coloring and figure” (250).
On table manners: “Bad habits at table are crumbling bread, or cutting it with a knife, or eating it between courses as though one were hungry. Unpardonable habits are leaving a teaspoon in a cup even for a moment, or sipping tea or coffee from a spoon.” (76)
The main takeaway for our modern life is simple: to excel as guest and host, be always considerate of others and mindful of your own impact, and never, ever, leave your teaspoon in a cup.
Source: Mrs. Frank Learned (Ellin Craven Learned), The Etiquette of New York To-Day. New York: Frederick A. Stokes Company, 1906. Full text available online here. Thanks to a very soignée hostess, Christiane Lemieux, for lending me the book.
Images: 1 William MacGregor Paxton, Tea Leaves (1909) at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York; 2 Mrs. Frank Learned's book, The Etiquette of New York To-Day (1906), photo by Rob Meyer; 3 Alonzo Myron Kimball, Parlor Scene (1906), at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.
More 1906 trivia: to put Eva Zeisel’s longevity into perspective, also born that year were Josephine Baker and Dmitri Shostakovich, both of whom died in 1975.




White Enamel Flatwa...
So...what ARE tea dresses worn for?
Such a great, humorous synopsis of a fantastic book. Anna - you can borrow from my library anytime.
Man, I wish my friends would adhere to that first one.
Wow, I must have offended so many people in wearing my tea gown. Now I know.
I wonder if tea dresses were for tea dances. When I was in high school (mid-1970s), one of my girlfriends brought me to a tea dance at the Naval Academy. I think I was expecting something rather courtly and elegant; instead it was a stilted, uncomfortable occasion with a fussy, old-ladyish vibe. I never went back a second time. I can't imagine they still exist.
Tea Gown: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tea_gown
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_41.html
(this is an amazing vintage clothing site--:)
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_41.htm
Sorry--the other was a bad link :)
I think tea gown means house coat -- it would be like showing up in your robe and curlers.
Let's implement a mandatory refresher course on the rules of conversation! I WISH I knew more people who adhered to those.
I've found it increasingly common that I get stuck talking to someone who "hijacks" the conversation-- they get started on a subject, and, no matter how awkward or unpleasant it is, they just keep prattling. If you can't find a good opportunity to change the subject, they take your quietness as an implicit agreement to keep going with the subject at hand.
For example, I'd love to hear about how you twisted your ankle at softball last week, but for the love of Pete, that doesn't mean I want to hear about every sport's injury you've ever incurred.
Of course you can tell me about the crappy thing your boss did, but please don't go on to tell me the crappy things that also happened last week to your boyfriend, mom, sister, roommate....
What a fun post! Thanks.
OK, got it: if your guest know you well, you may wear something a bit more casual than them. After all - they cannot possibly leave the house in a tea dress!!! But since you are at home and it is casual entertaining, you may wear one. Is this still true? When you are entertaining at home, do you dress more casual than your guests?
One time I wore my tea gown to get the mail and all these old ladies fainted.
I love old-fashioned etiquette - though times have changed so much, I think so many of the tips can still apply today.
And speaking of etiquette - albeit cyber-etiquette - I'm going to be terribly rude and point out that you've spelled the artist's name wrong in the first photo credit. It's William McGregor, not MacGregor.
damnit, there goes talking about how unfortunate that the scullery maid ran off with the neighbor's valet
Akay is basically right. A tea gown is a sort of glorified robe that women could put on and come down to breakfast looking reasonably respectable, but - and this is key- without a corset. One couldn't leave the house or entertain guests without a corset, but during private hours women understandably put off donning that uncomfortable an object as long as possible.
I imagine an etiquette guide is addressing the question because a risque or slovenly woman might consider that she and her girlfriends might be allowed to sit around having tea without wearing walls of whalebone. Wrong!
What fascinates me about etiquette books is the intended audience. They're like romance novels, only the fantasy they sell is a fantasy of social class.
Pages and pages delineating how to properly address and serve tea to a duke who is also an ordained minister and a professor of classics, written for and read by thousands of anxious, eager women whose will almost certainly never meet any duke at all, much less entertain one.
So the tea gown evolved into hostess pajamas 50 years later?
Thanks, emmabemma - how uncouth of me! I've corrected the problem. - anna
These are all quite interesting, but how can food not be an acceptable topic! Sharing restaurants and recipes is a great conversation starter.
as someone who is a stickler for proper etiquette, I love this post.
I love the comment about handshakes and one being a gentleman.
Call me old fashion (I'm 27), but I think it's shameful how manners have gone out the door and how casual people are these days. If it's one thing I can't stand, it rudeness. I wish some etiquette rules were still followed.
I love this blurb from wiki re. tea gowns :
"Every one knows that a tea-gown is a hybrid between a wrapper and a ball dress."
WTF's a wrapper? ;)
"wrapper" = bathrobe
The seated woman is totally checking her Blackberry.
I'm still confused about the orange spoon with a grapefruit. What, pray tell, does one do with a grapefruit spoon. Oh well, at least I'm kind to my inferiors, so that must count for something. It's cold. I think I need my wrapper....
WTF's a ball dress? and hostess pajamas?
You use a grapefruit spoon to eat grapefruit. They're narrower with a little serrated edge for cutting into sections. Very handy and elegant. I guess.
I, too, am wondering about the hostess pajamas.
I've been thinking that it'd be really fun to do a series of get-togethers/book clubs/movie night with my girlfriends going through the decades and having food and drinks from that period...as in, having a tea with petit-fours and cucumber sandwiches and discussing a book written during that time period (The Jungle? What a scandal...) or perhaps doing some sort of crafty thing as well. Seems like it could be really fun!
We taught our kids how to shake hands at a very early age. It's a small thing, but I was really proud at their kindergarden "graduation" that they remembered what to do:
Look the other person in the eye
No loosey-goosey hands but no breaking fingers
Two small shakes of the other person's hand (because you are not drawing water from an outdoor pump.)
But then there's that germ thing...
Hah. My grandmother gave me a book of etiquette that she'd been given upon getting married. Second printing, 1921, I believe. I took it home and promptly began reading random passages out loud to my mother's amusement, little trivia that we'd never even notice these days (and some I knew already).
Then I got to the part about how, if at dinner, you drop a utensil, it's very bad form to call attention to the fact that you've done so, and you should *never* actually reach down and pick it up. The proper etiquette is to simply wait quietly, and a servant will bring you a fresh utensil to replace the one you lost.
My mother's comment: "you're going to be waiting a long time in this house, then."
These outdated guidelines also just go to show that one doesn't need to know every little fussy rule of etiquette... just some common sense, decency and consideration can go a long way...something that is becoming more and more rare in our modern society, I'm afraid.