this helped me
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a5BatDn6TdI

or go to Holly's blog she has great info
http://www.inthefunlane.com/2009/07/furniture-painting-questions.html

Melamine paint. It's worth the effort - no sticky afterwards, plus it's so thick and rich, it's very easy to work with, despite it being oil-based....and I find the smell is minimal compared to regular oil-based paint (but it is still there).

Furniture that I've painted with acrylic/latex paint - I've always sealed it with polyurethane, and then there is no sticky aftermath. But again, it's somewhat stinky and a little more difficult to handle than acrylic paint.

Use oil-based enamel.

i've used zero VOC latex paint, followed by Vermont Natural Finishes poly whey furniture coating (in satin)...no odor, extremely durable!

You say "no matter how long I wait for it to dry" - but that can't be true or else things wouldn't stick.

Some painted finishes - particularly high-gloss latex paints - need a few days to dry completely.

Bepnf, I imagine she means within reason(several days.) This has happened to me before as well. Usually means the paint is old or it's too cold or humid outside, sometimes because it's going over another paint, sometimes I don't know. Lately it's been white spray paint, it just wont cure properly.
I wish I could help, but beyond painting in the right temperature and humidity conditions I've got nothing.

Go to a local paint store for your paint and tell them what you are doing---they will be able to give you good advice about which paint to use for a project, taking into account the local weather.

maryman has it right: Enamel. That's what it's for. It's especially important with shelves.

I know EXACTLY how to fix this and have done this with great results: mix in baby powder or talc. You can put a decent amount in without it turning the paint gritty. It completely works and means you can use any paint you want.

I have never had this happen to me. I've painted a lot of stuff, sometimes with prep, sometimes without, wood, metal, fabric......

Make sure you select the right type of paint. You can use enamel or oil or latex. If you use a latex paint, use one designated for trim, or kitchen/bath paint (it will be more durable) I recommend Mythic brand: high-performance and low-VOC.

Make sure you don't thin the paint. If you are using a latex paint, don't add more than around 4-5% water by volume to thin it (no more than 6oz water/gallon of paint). Likewise, over-thinning oil or enamel paints with chemical thinners will increase the tackiness of the surface.

Make sure you prime the wood with the correct type of primer (made for wood, and the type of paint you will be using). Some primers are made for multiple paint types, others for a specific type. Let the primer dry completely.

Most importantly, build up several layers by applying thin coats. You have to be patient when painting. Trying to coat in a single heavy coat can prohibit the paint from drying completely no matter how long you wait between coats. Just because it doesn't rub off when you touch it, it doesn't mean it's dry.

Best of luck!

I have certainly learned the hard way that you HAVE to use oil-based paint. And primer, of course.

I am so glad this question came up, because just today I was thinking of submitting the very same one. Can't wait to read all the comments in depth. Thanks!

You coats might be too thick. Try using very, very thin coats, and let each coat dry completely before applying the next.

In the past I too had this problem and have just found my new love and solution. It is a top coat by General Finishes. I used a polyacrylic water based top coat in a Satin finish on a recently refinished table and it gave it a professional factory look and feel. Their top coats are also self leveling which makes it easy to apply it evenly. I acquired this top coat from a wood furniture factory near my house that sells unfinished and painted wood furniture, and this is what they use. I also have full instructions on my blog on how to paint wood furniture and get a professional look and finish. I will never use a different method or top coat again when painting wood furniture, and plan on using this same product when refinishing my kitchen cabinets.

Sorry for the broken links! Here they are again.

The Wood Connection

the Bird and the Berry blog

Recently refinished table

Furniture or shelves are best painted with an interior alkyd paint. Pittsburg Paints makes one that is available in many colors or can be custom mixed. Sherwin Williams also makes.

I am a latecomer in posting this, but I have to jump in and add my two cents worth. I, too, sanded, primed & painted a chest of drawers - YEARS ago - with a semi-gloss latex enamel paint, and things still stick to it. I have it in my upper hall with a lamp and a picture frame, both of which stick. Arrrg. I am on my way to the store to get some General Finishes Semi-gloss Armor Seal. Here's hoping it works. I have several painting projects I have been putting off because of this!

It doesn't have anything to do with cure time. It has to do with the type of paint. Any latex gloss surface will stick if you let it cure 10 years. If you already have a gloss surface you can buy a can of clear laquer and spray on several coats and it will stop the sticking. Or just use a flat or oil based enamel to start with. If you want shiny, you can use a flat paint and spray on a gloss laquer topcoat.

Setup: I live in FL (high humidity) and painted a bunch of outdoor furniture 6 months ago (heat/humidity very high) and was advised by Sherman Williams (with my painter's concurrance) to use their very expensive "All Suface Enamel Latex Base" paint. Color is highly pigmented black/green.
Painting: First, my painter prepped the surfaces and used Kilz primer. Having given the primer a few days to fully cure, he spray painted all my furniture.
Problem: After 2 weeks, paint was tacky. Went to Sherman Williams who said it does not dry fast in highly humid FL (was not told this when I purchased). They suggested waiting awhile longer. After another month passed, paint still sticky. Went back to Sherwin Williams who said they would have their expert meet with my painter at my home.
Expert concludsion: Paint will eventuall dry. Highly pigmented paint takes extra drying time. Maybe an oil base topcoat will help. Painter did not like oil base as it may mildew. Expert said just give it more time to dry. Expert would not offer to pay for any additional work or to excalate my problem.
Today: It has been over 6 months. Humidity is very low, and avg. temp about 70. Paint is still a bit tacky. However, dust and an occasional fingerprint have left the finish unacceptable compared to what it should be. Painter has given up.
Conclusion: I will probably never use another Sherman Williams product again. I have no solution.

Follow up to Paint sticky above: After sending an Email to customer support at Sherman Williams Corp. they agreed to send another expert from the Miami area. About a month later he showed up to assess and determine that I was experiencing "blocking." He concluded there was nothing wrong with their paint. He offered to paint over one of the removable shelves with oil base to prove/solve the problem, and I let him do that. After he painted the shelf and it had only two days to dry, it was still a little sticky and the rep said it just needs a little more time. He returned to Miami with only an offer to reimburse me for the cost of the 2 gallons of paint that cost me $85. It has now been over a month and to my chagrin and amazement there has not been much of an improvement. The shelf is not as sticky as it was, but it is sticky. I set a fixture on the shelf, and two days later when I lifted the lamp there was a definite stick and audible click as they separated. I refused the refund offer only because this is not a problem I have any idea how to correct, and I had hoped someone at Sherman Williams would sympathise and offer assistance. So far, no one has contacted me. I then sent a request/plea for help to the customer service rep at Sherman Williams Headquarters (who sent the Miami rep), and he has not responded or answered my request. What went wrong????
BTW... I did a little research on "bocking" to only find that Benjamin Moore's website says that blocking only occurs when either: "paint has not had enough time to dry when two pieces abut each other (such as a door and door-jam)," or "the paint is of poor quality having an inadequate additive to minimize blocking."
When I bought my paint I asked for the 'best" paint from the salesman. I was surprised the best paint cost over $40 a gallon, but nonetheless I paid the price to get two gallons of their best paint. So, I assume I did not purchase "poor" quality paint.
I have now had nearly a year for my paint to cure and dry and it is sticky. The oil-base overcoat on the shelf has had almost a month to cure/dry and it is sticky.
The only conclusion I can come to is that something went wrong when the paint was formulated. Most distressing is I do not know what to do, and Sherman Williams does not seem interested to find out why their paint failed, or find out what went wrong, or help me (or guide me) to solving my problem.
If anyone has any idea or suggestion, please let me know... Thanks in advance.
Frank

A search on latex paint being sticky brought me here. I am having the same issue with Sherwin WIlliams paint. I told the salesperson I would be painting furniture, he mixed up a gallon of all surface latex acrylic enamel. This paint was not cheap ($55) the piece of furniture that was painted has been sitting for over a month and is still tacky. I have used Benjamin Moore's waterborne satin impervo before with excellent results. From now on I'll either go with that or oil based and stay away from SW.