this helped me
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a5BatDn6TdI

or go to Holly's blog she has great info
http://www.inthefunlane.com/2009/07/furniture-painting-questions.html

Melamine paint. It's worth the effort - no sticky afterwards, plus it's so thick and rich, it's very easy to work with, despite it being oil-based....and I find the smell is minimal compared to regular oil-based paint (but it is still there).

Furniture that I've painted with acrylic/latex paint - I've always sealed it with polyurethane, and then there is no sticky aftermath. But again, it's somewhat stinky and a little more difficult to handle than acrylic paint.

Hmmmm, maybe good prep work like sanding and primer may help? I'm sure you will have to seal it, too.

Use oil-based enamel.

i've used zero VOC latex paint, followed by Vermont Natural Finishes poly whey furniture coating (in satin)...no odor, extremely durable!

You say "no matter how long I wait for it to dry" - but that can't be true or else things wouldn't stick.

Some painted finishes - particularly high-gloss latex paints - need a few days to dry completely.

Bepnf, I imagine she means within reason(several days.) This has happened to me before as well. Usually means the paint is old or it's too cold or humid outside, sometimes because it's going over another paint, sometimes I don't know. Lately it's been white spray paint, it just wont cure properly.
I wish I could help, but beyond painting in the right temperature and humidity conditions I've got nothing.

Go to a local paint store for your paint and tell them what you are doing---they will be able to give you good advice about which paint to use for a project, taking into account the local weather.

maryman has it right: Enamel. That's what it's for. It's especially important with shelves.

I know EXACTLY how to fix this and have done this with great results: mix in baby powder or talc. You can put a decent amount in without it turning the paint gritty. It completely works and means you can use any paint you want.

I have never had this happen to me. I've painted a lot of stuff, sometimes with prep, sometimes without, wood, metal, fabric......

It sounds like you aren't prepping your surface properly. Make sure you sand it with an 80 grit, then wipe off the remaining dust, then apply a thin first coat, then wait 24 hours, do a light sanding once it's bone dry with a finer 100 grit, wipe, add second coat, then repeat until surface is smooth and hard, stepping up in grit with each coat.

Make sure you select the right type of paint. You can use enamel or oil or latex. If you use a latex paint, use one designated for trim, or kitchen/bath paint (it will be more durable) I recommend Mythic brand: high-performance and low-VOC.

Make sure you don't thin the paint. If you are using a latex paint, don't add more than around 4-5% water by volume to thin it (no more than 6oz water/gallon of paint). Likewise, over-thinning oil or enamel paints with chemical thinners will increase the tackiness of the surface.

Make sure you prime the wood with the correct type of primer (made for wood, and the type of paint you will be using). Some primers are made for multiple paint types, others for a specific type. Let the primer dry completely.

Most importantly, build up several layers by applying thin coats. You have to be patient when painting. Trying to coat in a single heavy coat can prohibit the paint from drying completely no matter how long you wait between coats. Just because it doesn't rub off when you touch it, it doesn't mean it's dry.

Best of luck!

I have certainly learned the hard way that you HAVE to use oil-based paint. And primer, of course.

I am so glad this question came up, because just today I was thinking of submitting the very same one. Can't wait to read all the comments in depth. Thanks!

You coats might be too thick. Try using very, very thin coats, and let each coat dry completely before applying the next.

In the past I too had this problem and have just found my new love and solution. It is a top coat by General Finishes. I used a polyacrylic water based top coat in a Satin finish on a recently refinished table and it gave it a professional factory look and feel. Their top coats are also self leveling which makes it easy to apply it evenly. I acquired this top coat from a wood furniture factory near my house that sells unfinished and painted wood furniture, and this is what they use. I also have full instructions on my blog on how to paint wood furniture and get a professional look and finish. I will never use a different method or top coat again when painting wood furniture, and plan on using this same product when refinishing my kitchen cabinets.

Sorry for the broken links! Here they are again.

The Wood Connection

the Bird and the Berry blog

Recently refinished table

Furniture or shelves are best painted with an interior alkyd paint. Pittsburg Paints makes one that is available in many colors or can be custom mixed. Sherwin Williams also makes.

I am a latecomer in posting this, but I have to jump in and add my two cents worth. I, too, sanded, primed & painted a chest of drawers - YEARS ago - with a semi-gloss latex enamel paint, and things still stick to it. I have it in my upper hall with a lamp and a picture frame, both of which stick. Arrrg. I am on my way to the store to get some General Finishes Semi-gloss Armor Seal. Here's hoping it works. I have several painting projects I have been putting off because of this!