Q: I'm currently in a rental (7 months in), in which I plan on staying in for 5 or so years. My landlord has granted me permission to paint, refinish, and re-do as I please, since it's nearly impossible to make this unit any worse (it was a high-rise university dorm for 30 years, and has since been taken over by a local property company, in the midst of a major remodel). My issue is with the tiling in the bathroom.
It's heinous. I could live with the tiling around the bath, but they used the same WALL TILE for the floor! There are chips and cracks everywhere, and I'm not quite sure I want to take up the floor. Is that my only option? Painting is out of the question, since it's so high-traffic. I am beyond stumped on this one.
Sent by Erin
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Comments (39)
Maybe there's a peel & stick solution you could put over the top. But I think covering might be your best bet.. bummer.
It's a bathroom - so a floating floor isn't going to work.
The tiles are broken - so reglazing isn't going to work.
Outside of a house fire - pulling up the tiles everywhere and starting from scratch is the only correct way to go about it.
Depending on how much room there is perhaps you could put down some cement board and tile over that. You could also explore floating floors. They can be difficult in such a wet enviroment. Good luck!
I've heard you *can* put the "pop and click" flooring over tile. In particular, I've heard that cork works in the bathroom, though it may have to be sealed.
I think it would be nice in the bathroom, much nicer under foot than cold tile.
Buy a big rug.
try the trafficmaster allure brand (homedepot sells it, and probably lowe's - not sure)... it's a floating VINYL floor so it's 100% waterproof (if you caulk or seal along the perimeter).
i put it down over my industrial-grade kitchen tile in my rental and it cost me about $150. it would have been less if there were any right angles whatsoever in my kitchen (old building, and curved).
i couldn't be happier with it.
If you shop correctly and frugally, a DIY re-tile job of a bathroom floor is quite easy and pretty cheap. A basic and cheap tile project might cost you less than $100 for a smallish bathroom floor. Rent a tile saw from Home Depot for about $35.00 for a half day. Learn how to tile from the internet...I have completely done a bath and two kitchens for less than a thousand dollars.. It really pays to learn tricks like this.
Bepsf is right... peel & stick would be disastrous and waste of money. It's best to start from scratch. The way those tiles are cracking means that they weren't laid correctly. Anything that you attempt to use to cover them would only be a band-aid.
What's under the floor? It might be concrete, in which case, maybe finishing/staining it? I've never done it but I do have friends that have done it themselves with great results. I don't know how much it costs...
Looks like whatever you do it will be an improvement. That is some really awful tile. Good luck!
I've seen people lay down a natural fibre rug (like a grasscloth rug or those IKEA mats that are like woven grass) and cut it to size, even cutting perfect holes to fit it around the toilet and cover the whole floor. They are inexpensive, so if you ended up having water issues it wouldn't be a disaster.
please remove them and start over. maybe with salvaged wood and porch/deck paint?
yes that tile is ugly...you should have never rented that apt. I agree with bethaneebee...a fiber rug cut to size will be your cheapest option. You dont want to spend alot of money on a rental !
my two cents, you plan to be there for 5 years, if it cost you $500 to redo it, and from what jefland said it sounds doable for less, that'd be at most $100 a year, $8.33 a month - frankly that seems worth it to me to not have to look at the hideous tile (and the germaphobe in me thinking about the bacteria that could be growing there). And hey at less than $10 a month, that's certainly cheaper than flowers to brighten up the place.
Oh and sometimes Home Depot does free classes showing you how to tile, etc. so it's definitely worth checking out the one in your area.
Either way, whatever you do will look better than what's there now.
I think if you are planning to stay there for 5 years, a $100 loss to fix the tile floor would be a good investment. That's an extra $1.66 a month. Is a better looking bathroom worth a minor rent raise to you?
Have you talked to your landlord about reimbursing repair costs? It wouldn't hurt to ask. If you are going to do something neutral that will raise the rental value, I bet they would be receptive to the idea.
Actually your landlord should replace that. I'm sure it is some kind of violation to have wall tile on the floor, because it's not strong enough to withstand walking on (and that's why it is so cracked and chipped in the first place).
I think the quickest solution would be to go wall to wall with rubber flooring. Use paper to map out a template, and then cut to fit. You could "finish" the edges by nailing or caulking some quarter round, and use some double sided tape along the way to keep it from slipping.
http://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Cal-Elephant-Recycled-Rolled-Flooring/dp/B001UP81PA/ref=sr_1_47?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1270680524&sr=8-47
Your best bets are probably tearing out the tile and sticking down vinyl tile. The floor tile is probably cracking because the concrete underneath isn't level, and you don't want to tackle releveling by yourself, without which new tile will just crack or won't adhere properly, same as the current tile.
You could also try using a garage floor-type epoxy paint, if you can get decent ventilation in the bathroom. The epoxy should also help hide any superficial veining and cracks in the concrete substrate.
The concrete beneath the tile probably won't be in good enough condition to stain it if you remove the tile, but you could also try painting it with marine-grade paint and sealing it. I would worry about mildew growing in a rug in the bathroom...
Wow, that is ugly tile. Agree that there is nothing to do but start from scratch. Some questions:
---If the property company is remodeling the place, are they also going to do yours? If so, why not wait? Or will that only happen when you leave?
---Are you willing to spend the money to replace the floor? And if so, can you stop there? New flooring will only make the old wall tile look worse. You need to decide what level of investment you're willing to make.
---The tile should come up easily, but who knows what lies beneath. Prepare yourself for unpleasant surprises, and have a plan for how to deal with them. (And if there is rot, termite or other damage, your landlord should foot the bill for that).
This would be a fun and potentially low risk way to learn how to tile. If you're willing to spend the money, I'd go for it and choose something very basic and low cost.
I suggest getting a few of these wooden spa mats to cover the tile. Kind of expensive, but cheaper than tiling over and you can take the mats with you when you move.
http://www.amazon.com/Roll-Teak-Mat-Natural-Wood/dp/B001G7JY2Q
The damage to those tiles look significant. Could you work out a deal with your landlord in which he pays for materials to re-tile and you do the work and maybe get a break in your rent? If the tiles are in such bad condition, water leaking through will damage the structure. It's in the landlord's best interest to fix the problem.
If you decide to tile, you should think about hex tile or another small tile because it will be able to handle a little more irregularity in the subfloor if it has to.
If you can get used to tripping, or don't mind taking a tiny step up, try covering all that with a layer of thinset to level the floor (it'll fill everything in and seal the current disaster). After that, try laying cork tile or something that's not likely to crack in 5 years. Before you pour the thinset, you'd have to do some minor prep like cleaning, sanding, more cleaning and making a board "tray" at the doorway and around the toilet hole so the thinset doesn't spill over. If you don't want to take the time to pry up the existing tile, you'll have to seal it all off somehow anyway.
I used the Allure vinyl plank for my dining room. At less than $50 a box it is a quick solution, somewhat forgiving over uneven surfaces, but only waterproof if the seams are perfect. But the landlord should really fix that. Did they do any repairs before you moved in?
I've done a fair amount of tiling. It's not all that complicated but you do have to do each step exactly right to get a good result. It's really hard to undo any of it once you get going.
Those tiles are most likely cracked because either there is insufficient mortar or someone set them with mastic, which is not really for floors or wet areas. OR the subfloor may have some flex in it, in which case it would have to be stiffened with another layer or two of plywood and then backerboard over to provide a good tiling surface. You shouldn't retile without figuring out the cause of all the cracking.
But before all of that, find out what your landlord is obligated to repair.
I appreciate everyone's comments and ideas! I'll mull over the options and get a start on it as soon as I decide..
My unit wasn't reno'd before I moved in. I got a great deal on it because it had literally just been taken over the day before, and they needed a certain number of tenants confirmed before they'd start reno's. I am the first tenant in my unit that hasn't been a student, for the last 30 years. My guess is that they'll do what they need only once I move out. I'm not banking on assistance from the landlord - I'm lucky they came to fix my leaky windows in last month's rainstorm.
I'm a bit concerned about what my flooring options are, colour-wise, if I'm going to keep the tub surround tile.
And if you think the bathroom floor is bad, you should see the mix 'n match stained/painted/water-damaged parquet flooring throughout the rest of the unit.
-Erin
I hope the rent in a steal.
Between the bathroom tile and the parquet flooring you describe...resulting in the "great deal"...I say take a bit of the money you are saving...and save your sanity.....
you accepted the deal, so now just do what you can to make it livable.
I agree with the others that say for the few hundred dollars...just redo the floor.... and be happy rather than miserable for the next 5 years, the cost will be well worth it.
Go to HomeDepot...they might not have the hex tile, but they have the octagon tile...dirt cheap...it's app. $2. a sq. foot...it will cost you less than $200. if you do it yourself, or with a friend that's willing to help. For that amount, you can probably manage to do around the tub as well.
As for the parquet floors that sound destroyed....why not have them sanded, and polyurethane them, whitewash them, or paint them? Renting a sander is cheap....
You just have to be willing to do the labor.
Skimstone is a product that covers anything. It's a portland cement product so if you wanted that look, it could work for you. There are how-to videos on line and loads of assistance from the manufacturer.
Erin, I don't have anything new to add about the bathroom tile, but I sure hope you take the opportunity to paint your "mix 'n match" parquet floors. I want painted floors so badly, but can't ever justify painting over hardwood that's in decent shape. But you can totally go for it! White, or black, or something striking like cobalt blue... so fun!
My brother and sister-in-law refinished their bathroom by having a contractor use an epoxy paint on their out-of-date tile with beautiful results. Basically, any grout is repaired and the tiles are prepared with a bonding agent or an acid etching. Then an epoxy paint, like what is used on bathtub refinishing, is sprayed over the entire surface. It's self-leveling and creates a very hard, durable attractive surface. Doing it yourself for a small bathroom seems completely doable and affordable. Research the right products and it should be a perfect DIY project. This looks like a good article on it. http://www.house-painting-info.com/article-simon_phillips-painting_bathroom_tiles.html
First I agree that if you are planning on being there for 5 years, you may want to consider doing a real fix now. I moved into a NYC 1 bedroom with worn wood floors that I should have refinished. 10 years later I was still wishing I'd done it.
So a few ideas for you...
A friend of mine painted a vinyl floor with heavy duty paint. It was a hideous floor and he used the type of paint you'd cover a garage floor with. He picked a pop color and it turned out amazing...just be prepared to allow for several days for it to dry, more if the room doesn't get great air. You'll still see the texture of the tiles but they will all be the same color.
Second idea which was mentioned is cut a wall to wall sisal rug. It's cheap and instant and a nice look. But plan to use rugs and towels to keep it dry or it will age quickly...it gets black and can even mold if you are not careful. If you do this, I'd remove the few chipped tiles on the wall. They will be easy to patch.
Third idea: I've used adhesive tiles from home depot before. You'll have to cut around any odd shapes and corners but it's easy (use an iron to heat them for easier cutting). They don't wear that well in the long term, but for 5 years, they should get you by.
Fourth idea: move? Buy a large bath matt now and when your lease is up, look for a place that you can grow into over the next 5 years.
Good luck!
i am in the same boat you are- i am renting a place that needs SO much work but the rent is low...
so i've been making changes that don't cost TOO much but make it much more liveable.
i just re-did my kitchen floor with peel and stick vinyl tile (i bought it on amazon- it was black/white tile and i got free shipping).
it cost about $1/square foot and it looks amazing (well, compared to how it looked before- LOL). it's not perfect by any means, but i don't really care. i bought an extra box for doing touch-ups later. i would try that- and just buy some extra for if they peel up. i would also get a little rug to cover and put down a towel when you get out of the shower to avoid getting a lot of water on the floor.
it doesn't have to be perfect to look so much better!!!
hang in there!
-erika
oh, and get an extacto knife to cut your tile at the edges- you just need the vinyl tile, an exacto knife and a ruler...
-erika
So, I suppose the laws where you live are different from here, but in this country it is quite difficult to DIY a bathroom because it all has to be absolutely water proof and if you can not prove that it has been done 100% correctly, the insurance company will not pay you back if something happens.
That said, I would suggest something like this. The site is in swedish, but I am sure you could see the pictures. It's kind of a snap-on plastic floor that can be removed when you move out (and maybe used at a balcony or similiar). I think that would cover up the terrible tiles, and since you can re-use it later you wont be loosing your money.
Have a look:
http://www.flooring.se/SE/produkter.asp
Otherwise, why not have a look at the wood paneling options for balconies and terraces. I once covered up a terrible bathroom floor with two or three of those wooden squares and it looked really nice.
(Although both options should probable be lifted from time to time to clean under.)
Good luck!
We are home owners and even we just put vinyl over our ugly unglazed tiles in te toilet. It's a grey mosaic print and cost almost nothing. I really wouldn't put too much money in it!
I suggest you read this thread about working on a rental - http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/boston/good-questions/good-questions-112459
Different question, but still you share some of the issues.
Personally, I wouldn't undertake this as it is rife with potential problems you can't anticipate. I would try and get the landlord to replace as wall tiles shouldn't be on the floor, and if he won't just get some sort of non-skid mat/rug on the floor.
A box of subway tiles is $50.00.
Get to it.
easiest fix would be a rug. softer too ;)
This might be too whacky, or not fucntional for other reasons, but I have seen snap together wooden deck tiels that are meant to give a wooden surface to a concrete pad outside. Maybe those would be an option and if they did work, you could, I believe, unsnap them and take them with you when you move and have an actual patio to use them on!