Good Questions: Painting Over Linoleum?

Hello AT,

How do I paint over worn linoleum flooring? Do I have to prepare the floor first?

Thanks, Ronnie

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Dear Ronnie,

we're sure we've answered this question before, but we can't find the post so we'll have to try again. Linoleum does not like to be painted over and most painters or shops will tell you not to do it. However, we have painted over it a few times and been fine with the results (which are not beautiful, but better than what was there before).

The trick is to really really prep the linoleum before you paint it. We recommend a good hard scrubbing, followed by a light sanding (or scratching with a wire brush), followed by an oil based primer and then an oil based paint. It's a bit heavy handed, but you want this stuff to stay down.

We also found This thread helpful, and you might want to heed Fiona's advice and skip the sanding.

Anyone else?

Comments (14)

Just a warning - if it's old vinyl tile, there's a chance it contains asbestos in which case you absolutely should NOT sand it first.

Hi ronnie,
I have a similar issue in my downstairs hallway. It was originally a seperate entrance for the garden apartment and the cellar, but now we've converted this level with the first floor into a duplex, it has to be changed. i don't want to rip it up, it's just faded, and since i've got beautiful hardwood floors every where else, i thought/think painting it is my best and cheapest bet. i found the follwing link to be pretty helpful, and will do it as soon as time allows.
http://www.msbuilder.com/lib/ms041.shtml
Incidentally my color choices are high gloss black, midnight blue or taxi cab yellow floor paint - i want it to glow!

Ronnie, do keep us updated with what you do. I have a long hallway with linoleum sheet flooring that is fugly (think yellow faux brick with grey grout) - I'm thinking of painting, but it's essentially the main hallway through the house so it's got to be a perfectly scheduled process...

I'd love to see what you do with yours!

Yes, Vanessa is right. I am just about to send a sample of my kitchen linoleum (which I am 90% sure has asbestos, since it was installed in 1982, according to the previous owner) to a place in California called Western Analytical Lab. (You can google it)

I'm sure there are place in NYC to get it tested, but this seemed relatively painless. If it comes back with asbestos, then I'll figure out who here can remove it safely (although it should be pretty easy, since it's practically coming up by itself).

We'll see.

Fiona, if (god forbid!) it IS asbestos, brace yourself for mucho dinero- regardless how easy-removable it might look to you. There are standards of disposal the demo crew has to follow, and it's pricey.

fiona,
asbestos tiles are usually 9"x9" (but not all the time)

One thing I can think of that MIGHT work. Roscoe is a theatrical supply outlet (you can find them on the web) and they make a variety of scenic paints. They also make one product called Tough Prime which is a water based primer. It is really just that: a VERY tough primer. I have used it when I have had to paint set designs on Marley, (which is a vinyl dance floor). After painting, I sealed it with regular old Mop and Glo, and the painted marley has been rolled up and unrolled countless times for touring productions, walked on, danced on, had furniture rolled across, and it still looks like I painted it yesterday. Because of Tough Prime, it took the paint, and doesn't scratch off. Might be easier than an oil based primer.

Asbestos is dangerous only when you inhale it. You can sand safely if you sand it wet. Either use a 3M pad, or use wet/dry sandpaper -- either one with water. When you're finished sanding, clean up with a damp cloth. Whenever I sand anything indoors, I wet-sand, because the dust is very messy otherwise.

Dan, that's a treasure trove of useful info.
[if only I would know what Mop and Glo are...they sound like some Sesame Str characters...]

What paints oyu use for actual design/pattern painting? (on top of the primer)

I've decided to paint the linoleum in my two bathrooms until I have the money to do something with a mosaic tile I have my eye on. My place was built in 1969 and after reading I have concerns whether my flooring contains abestos, though my floors are a continuous sheet, not 9"x9" squares. To play it safe I'll take Claudia's advice and wet/sand it.

I see the consensus is that oil based paints are best to use. Any brand in particular? Plus, I've heard that at least 3 coats of an oil based clear urethane varnish should be used to seal it and help maintain it's integrity, correct?

I'm nervous about doing it but excited about doing a very unique and artistic floor that I may never tile over!

Hello. It seems that all Urethane is designed for wood, but people are suggesting a coat on top of the oil paint. Other directions that I've read/heard about do not mention the urethane. Is there a special Urethane designed for this type of project? Thanks!

I have the same issue. I have a neat little basement apartment and cannot stand the linoleum flooring. Although I am not a contractor
I have asked the owner if I can rip it up, but he is resistant and I priced replacement tile and linoleum and it is not exactly cheap. If I can get approval from the owner, I intend to clean, scuff and apply some white paint to this god awful linoleum with moth wing vomit pattern.

I'm so very passionate about this topic. We've been in a rental house for a few years and really couldn't stand the bathroom linoleum floor. I guess technically it's vinyl. In any case I tested several types of paint on a spot and it didn't stick. I did one more internet search before giving up and found this stuff called Linoleum Lacquer. It must be new I've been looking for years for a special product and haven't seen it. It was genius! They have tons of colors. It's help up perfectly and it's been 9 months and that bathroom is our only one (between 3 people) so it gets a lot of use. Our only concern is the landlords reaction when we move out. It's still worth it though.