Hi Apartment Therapy — I just got my hands on a couple of old chairs that have sat stored away in my parents' attic for the past few years. The chairs are probably about 30 years old and they're in need of some TLC, including re-upholstering. Having done quite a bit of fabric searching online and in/around NYC, the fabrics I'm most drawn to are not upholstery weight. Unfortunately, conventional wisdom (confirmed by a great sales associate at Perl Soho) leads me to think that using non upholstery-weight fabric risks serious wear and tear. That said, looking around AT, it seems like many people have no qualms with using lighter-weight fabrics on certain pieces of furniture (look, you even used a skirt!). Note that each seat cushion is about 26" x 26" and the chairs will see infrequent use. So, here's my question - Is it fool-hardy for me to attempt to use non-upholstery weight fabric for my chairs? Thanks! Amit
Who has advice for Amit?
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Fantastic chairs, very Ed Wormley. If they really will see infrequent use, I say go for it, use the lighter fabric.
It may be foolhardy, I don't really know as I've done only one upholstery project, a small bench...but I fell in love with a lighter weight fabric too. I ironed on a fusible backing to give it a bit more heft and staying power. The piece is used to catch clothes in my bedroom more than to sit on, but so far it's been a year and it's worked out ok.
That said, after all the hard work was done and since I love the result, it makes me sad that it probably won't last as long as it should. And I bite my tongue to keep from asking family members not to sit on it -- which you really can't rightfully ask if it's a chair!
I prefer the look of heavier fabric for upholstery. But you could attach some fusible interfacing to the back to give the fabric more heft. You just iron it on.
Fantastic chairs - i would err on the side of caution and use a heavier fabric...
one word -
lining!
Since these are just going to be accent chairs, any cotton/linen fabric should be fine. I obviously wouldn't recommend silk or even synthetics since silk can bleach out easily when exposed to much light, and synthetics are bound to stretch. I think jmandel8's idea of ironing on fusible interfacing to the back before securing to the chair is fabulous. That will give it lots of strength and keep it from stretching and creating wrinkles over time.
Good luck!
Ditto on the fusible fabric. I got that tip from a lady at the fabric store. I haven't tried it yet thought. Didn't even know it existed.
I am having the same dilemma you are, I find the fabrics I like but not upholstery weight -- that's. within my price range ;-).
I see no reason why you couldnt use a lighter weight fabric, but there are a few things you might want to keep in mind when selecting. Cotton and linen do tend to stretch more, and yes, a backing would be great. A good way to test whether or not the backing is needed is to take the fabric swatch in your hand and try stretching it diagonally. If it stretches considerably then go with the backing. If it only pulls a little then you should be fine. A cotton-poly blend will hold up nicely. Also, when you take the chairs to get re-upholstered, take the fabric with you. If your seat is too soft then the fabric will give with every seating and look stretched out quickly. Address your concerns with your upholsterer - a good one will properly advise you on how firm your seat should be.
Hope this helps- those are great chairs!!
If you have cats with nails, like I do, definitely go for the heaviest, sturdiest fabric you can find. I bought some lightweight cotton with a gorgeous print from purl soho for some dining chairs I recently reupholstered and I'm now paying the price!!
Upholstery weight fabrics usually look and feel more appropriate for upholstery... usually.
Lighter weight fabrics often have a texture or pattern that screams DIY when used for upholstery. Solids with obvious texture and prints that aren't too small, busy or fussy have worked best for me.
Good luck!
Yup, fusible backing would work fine. Ask the fabric store people which would be best. Pellon is one of the major brands of the stuff.
Worst case scenario: they look terrible in a few months because you used the wrong fabric and you need to have the seats properly redone. As long as you factor that financial possibility into the overall scheme, go crazy.
If you're a person who likes to keep an interior look you create, go for upholstery weight: if you change looks a lot, it really doesn't matter. Especially since you say the chairs won't be used all that much for sitting.
Do NOT use fusible backing.
I agree that light weight cotton on this chair is so wrong, and will be a dead giveaway of poorly done DIY.
Or someone that did not know better.
The right fabric can turn your so so looking chairs into stunning statements!
I work in a fabric store and we often tell people that if the chair isn't going to be used frequently then you don't have to worry too much about the wearing. You want to make sure the fabric is strong enough to take a staple (some fabrics can run if you staple them, kind of like nylon stockings) but other than that the suggestions of lining it are good. Not fusable backing though, just a cotton lining.
Every fabric has a rub count determined by the Wyzenbeek method so if you think about it, a fabric with a low rub count that is not used often theoretically has the same durability as a fabric with a high rub count.
This being such a light and airy chair, I don't think you should be concerned with it looking "too DIY".
hope this helps!
Just had to comment - I LOVE those chairs.
Try looking for “multipurpose” fabric. I have a feeling the “upholstery” weight fabric you’re finding is intended for high traffic public spaces. The width for home furnishing fabric is 54/55”, relating to the size of cushions on couches and chairs. 44/45” goods are mainly apparel weight, which I would not use. No matter what fiber (manmade or natural) using a multipurpose weight fabric 54/55” intended for furniture will work fine. You shouldn’t need to back it. Residential fabric has testing requirements. Most reputable fabric houses will only put fabric with good test results into the market. Ask the store about these results. Wyzenbeek doesn’t need to exceed 9,000 double rubs. Unfortunately for you, NYC doesn’t have good fabric resources. If you have time, go to the D&D Building. You can wonder from showroom to showroom see what you like then try to find it online. Good luck!
Without reading other answers (so sorry if I'm repeating something that's already said): why don't you use an upholstery fabric in neutral color, and than add pillows in your preferred fabrics on top!?
Use the lighter fabric but DO reinforce by fusing to a heavier weight fabric. The only scenario you wouldn't want to use the fusible is if you expect to have these chairs around in a hundred years. Otherwise, having the two separate layers unfused may cause friction abrasion with frequent use. And also, if the lighter weight fabric you're using is from Purl Soho it's most likely a much better quality than a lightweight from Jo-anns fabrics or other bix-box retailer who more often than not, stock lower quality fabrics.
Please do NOT fuse the fabric. Odds are a wrinkle will be ironed in or the pattern will get distorted. Then every time you look at the chair, that’s all you’ll see. If you want the fabric backed send it out for a “light kiss coat” to a facility like Perferred Finishing in South Carolina.
As for the fabric content… It matters more how the fiber is processed and fabric finished, then what the fiber is. For example, a thin cotton duck might be a champ. The cotton may be combed, yarn count high and the end product mercerized. Or it can be a dud, a bad crop, short staples, carded and loomstate. One Indian silk mill may use domestic dyes, the other one may use Imported German Dyes, making for great color fastness to light. Please don’t discriminate.
i covered the seats of my dining chairs with regular weight cotton twill (fell in love with the fabric) and they've held up great so far...only been about 9 months though...
I re-covered a piano bench in a cotton blend fabric, much like what you are showing above. After a couple of months, they began to wrinkle (light use), and I opted to replace the fabric with a dense upholstery grade fabric.
I would recommend searching for an upholstery fabric. The results will look better for longer.
I realize this is an old discussion but I found it in my search as I was trying to figure out what to do with a couch I was reupholstering. After reading all the comments, I thought of a solution to using non-upholstery weight fabric for upholstering. I bought some medium weight herringbone wool that I really wanted to use for my couch. As I began to cut it out and staple it on the frame however, it seemed much more flimsy than I first thought and the weave a lot looser. I bought a cheap small roller brush and some Gem-Tac permanent adhesive glue. The glue is washable and dries clear and is made to use with fabric. I poured it in a pie tin and and ran my roller through it. On the back of my fabric, I did quick passes with the roller, coating the whole thing in a light layer...enough to cover but not to penetrate to the other side of the fabric. It worked wonderfully and now my fabric feels like the upholstery fabric at the store...with the stiff gluey layer on the back. Also, the fabric is not snagging nearly as easily as it did before. Hope this can help someone else.