One of the first things people look to when designing or renovating a home is good, energy efficient windows. But, with the ever changing window technology and tax incentives, it can be hard to sort out the good from the bad, so after the jump we've highlighted the most important things to look for to save money and energy.
Type of Window: Typically when you are designing a home, you will pick the window that will work best with the overall aesthetic of the building. Most modern houses use awning and/or casement windows, while traditional and historic homes have single or double hung units. There are a number of options and possibilities, but if you are a real stickler about finding an eco-friendly window, you'll want to stick with a casement or awning window. These units open and close like a door using a crank, and when in the closed position, the unit is fully sealed shut, something that double hung windows cannot do.

Frame Material: The most common window frame materials are wood, vinyl, aluminum, fiberglass, steel, composites, or a combination of the above.
- Vinyl: Within the last several decades there has been a huge increase in vinyl building products; however, vinyl is a very toxic material, and should generally be avoided.
- Wood: Wood frames are generally seen and used in historic and high-end homes. Wood is a beautiful and strong material, can be painted or stained, and work well as part of an energy efficient window unit. However, the drawbacks of using wood windows is they require a high amount of yearly maintenance to repaint, stain, or repair any rotting or split sections of wood. One very popular option is to get a wood window that is painted or stained on the interior, but clad on the exterior with aluminum or fiberglass. The exterior won't have the same look, but the window will still perform well and have much less maintenance requirements.
- Fiberglass: One common issue with windows is glass doesn't have same compression and expansion rate of its frame materials. Because of this, fiberglass frames make for a very efficient window unit, and the fiberglass material is generally much stronger and durable than vinyl, aluminum and wood. Windows can be made as all-fiberglass units, or wood units that are fiberglass clad on the exterior.
- Aluminum: Aluminum is a common, durable window material, which can be used as the entire frame or as an exterior cladding for wood or composite windows. If using full aluminum frame windows make sure these have a thermal break so that heat and cold isn't conducted through the frame.
- Steel: Steel windows are traditionally thought of as a more industrial building element, but they have been making a comeback in modern homes with large, sleek expanses of glass. Because steel is so strong, larger windows with low profile frames can be made, which other windows can't do. Similar to aluminum windows, make sure steel windows have a thermal break.
Glass:
- Number of Panes: At a minimum a window should have 2 panes of glass, also known as dual-glazed windows. Depending on where you live and the design of your house, some or all of your windows could be triple-glazed for additional layers of insulation.
- Fillings: The air space between the panes of glass can be filled with a variety of types of gasses, the most common being argon or krypton. These invisible gasses improve the insulating value of the window unit.
- Coatings: The panes of glass can be coated to control the amount of UV rays, infrared light and heat that is transferred to the interior — look for windows that are labeled as 'low-E' (low emissivity). Most coatings are barely visible to the eye, and like gas, help improve the efficiency of the window unit as well as protect the interior of the building from UV damage.

U-Factor, SHGC & NFRC Label: To be labeled as Energy Star and qualify for federal tax incentives, windows must meet U-Factor and SHGC requirements. Third-party organization, National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC), rates windows on their performance, two of which, U-Factor and Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC), are used to determine whether a window qualifies for tax rebates. While it varies by region, a good rule of thumb is to look for a window with a U-Factor and SHGC rating equal to or less than 0.30 to get tax incentives (not all Energy Star windows qualify).
- U-Factor: Similar to 'R-values', the U-Factor measures the rate of non-solar heat transfer and is an indicator of how well the window insulates. U-Factor values are generally in the range of 0.25 to 1.25, the lower the number the better.
- SHGC: While U-Factor values represent non-solar heat transfer, SHGC values measure the amount of solar heat and light transmitted through the window. SHGC values range between 0 to 1, the lower the number the better.
Lastly, don't be afraid to use a window company's 'builder's line' collection of windows. Most window companies have several different levels of windows, and 'builder's' level windows are usually lower cost not necessarily because they're lower quality, but actually because there are few sizes, configurations and colors available, but more than likely they'll have what you're looking for.
For More Information:
- US Department of Energy
- Products Eligible for Tax Credits Through 2010
- Energy Star
- The National Fenestration Rating Council
(Images: Celeste Sunderland | Jacob & Caitlin's Green Mountain Manse, Energy Star. Originally published 2010-09-01)


White Enamel Flatwa...
we installed Marvin windows a couple of years ago (wood interior, exterior clad with aluminum) and have been very pleased with them.
we went with home depot's windows & couldnt be happier. Their quality is really quite nice & they replace parts for free if they're broken (including the glass). They had the highest R value for the price.
Thanks for this info -- we do need to replace some of the ugly, broken-down midcentury replacement windows that were unfortunately put into our 1870's house at some point, so I'll look forward to what people have to say about specific brands they like.
Just a note from a historical preservation perspective, however: if you are lucky enough to have original wood windows that match the age and style of your old house, please please think very seriously before replacing them. According to everything I've read and what I've been told by the fantastic inspector who did my home-energy audit, windows are a comparatively small factor in home energy efficiency. The window companies, of course, want to convince you that if you have older, single-glazed windows, you're just pouring money out of your house, but it's simply not true -- insulation and air sealing is vastly more important from an energy savings perspective, and storm windows and/or appropriate window treatments (lined drapes, honeycomb shades, etc.) can do just about as good a job as new windows at retaining heat.
Sorry for the rant -- I'm just saddened that so many older houses get their perfectly functional and historically appropriate windows ripped out when the actual energy savings (again, from everything I have learned) is minimal. For new houses, though, bring 'em on :)
sorry philadelph, but i have the original 1920's windows in my home and i cannt wait to replace them all! they still function with the old chain pully system. and i can't stand the screen/storm windows and the years if grime on them. would you like me to pass them along to you to install in your home after i change out my windows? i'm sure you'll be singing a different tune then ;)
@ philadelph: you took the words right out of my mouth. I lived in a house built in the 1920s with brand-spanking-new windows on it, but the rooms were freezing in the winter and burning up in the summer because the house lacked insulation and there were no sweeps at the bottom of the doors to prevent air infiltration. Insulating your house (attic, walls, which can sometimes be done through the attic with blow-in cellulose insulation) and caulking properly around penetrations through walls, roofs, and slabs, and proper weatherstripping around doors is the key to keeping a tight thermal envelope that prevents air infiltration, not the fancy schmancy new windows.
Unless, of course, you live in a glass box.
while it feels better in our home since we changed out the windows, i have not documented our energy costs well enough to know if we are saving much. it's just hard to compare the "before" and "after" bills given that the severity of the summer & winters have more to do with the bills than anything else.
i do notice the humidity level is better and the new windows offer better sound insulation than the old ones. we also replaced divided/multi-pane windows with undivided ones, which let in better light and offer a less obstructed view (which I like - it's like the yard is in HD now when I look out) and these are much easier to clean.
We are looking to replace our windows one by one over the next 2 years. We'd like to get some really good low-E windows (we live in the Deep South) but I just recently read that they can create problems for your neighbors if the houses are close together. I can't remember where I read it, but it listed upping neighbors' energy bills, causing paint to age and peel faster, and even melting siding off their house as problems attributable to getting low-E windows.
Does anyone know how much of a problem this is? I can't find the article I read before and I don't think it listed any criteria to check to see whether your own situation would cause problems. We're trying to be green, but we want to be good neighbors too!
My husband and I just had our old windows restored. Windows with the pulley and chain system can work well and be efficient, as long as they are well maintained. Plus the price is comparable to replacement.
When we moved into our 1920s house, we kept the original leaded glass windows, but had new custom storms/screens put in. These were a HUGE improvement over the old storms and screens and really highlight the beauty of the windows; the cost was quite reasonable at about $100/window, and the installer specialized in old homes, which made a difference. So, yes, if you have an old house, please look at the range of options for improving window function--there are alternatives to simply replacing all the windows.
I also learned from reruns of sarah's house, that if you want to reduce noise, get the outer and inner panes of glass at different thicknesses - I think she did 6mm and 4mm respectively. the different thicknesses interfere with different frequencies of sound. I think it did add to the cost, but not sure how much. maybe only do the windows opening to the street or the fighting neighbors.