What You Need
Materials
Cork tiles (we used Capri Cork)
Cork adhesive (check with the cork manufacturer to see what they recommend)
Chalk line
Tools
Skinny, low nap rollers
Paint tray
Roller extension rod (for applying the glue to the floor)
Soft blow rubber mallet
Utility knife
Straight edge
Cutting mat
100 lb roller (we rented ours for $20)
Small hand roller
Knee pads (recommended)
Instructions
1. Prep the floor. (Cork can be applied over different subfloors, but the surface must be level and flat or the imperfections will telegraph through. We used a self-leveling compound to fill any crevices and divots in our plywood subfloor.)
2. Determine where you will start and snap two perpendicular chalk lines to mark where the first tile will go. (Make sure your lines are parallel to the walls.)
3. The adhesive acts like contact cement. Apply a thin coat to both the floor and back of tiles.(We found that rolling the glue on the diagonal kept the roller from slipping off and getting glue on the edges.) When the glue is transparent but still tacky, it's ready to go.
4. Place the first tile and set in place with a rubber mallet.
5. Install the next tile by setting it in at a slight angle next to the first tile to ensure a tight fit.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5. Every hour or so, use the 100 LB. roller to press the tiles firmly to the floor.
7. At the edges of the room, use a utility knife and straight edge to cut tiles to fit.
8. For edges and hard to reach areas, use a hand roller instead of the 100 LB. roller to ensure the tiles are fully adhered.
9. Celebrate, you're done!
Additional notes: Our tiles came unfinished (we had a wax finish put on later), but they are commonly sold with a water-based polyurethane finish.
Thanks, Lauren!
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(Images: Lauren Zerbey)











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I'm really interested in installing cork flooring in my kitchen but I've heard that it's easily punctured and dented (by furniture, high heeled shoes, etc.). How has your cork held up?
@probablykk, there are inherent pros and cons with cork. While it can be scratched or dented more easily than tile or concrete, it also has some self-healing qualities that make it a better choice than softwood floors like fir or pine. Because there is a bit of cushion in the floor, it's a great choice for rooms like kitchens that require a lot of standing (other perks - if you drop a dish it's less likely to break and the mottled color of cork is good at hiding dirt and crumbs!). We've only had our cork for a few weeks now, but so far, so good. We also implemented a no-shoes policy (to keep the floors looking nice and to help with indoor air quality) and put felt pads under our furniture legs. We do have a large dog, which pushed us in the direction of a through-body cork with a wax finish. Glue-down tiles are typically through-body (meaning it's the same material all the way through), while the click-together option is typically a sandwich of MDF, natural cork and then a thin veneer of the finish color or pattern on top. If the veneer is much different than the natural cork middle layer, then a scratch becomes more obvious. Also, while polyurethane is a common finish, we chose wax because it allows a homeowner the ability to spot repair (whereas a poly finish had to be redone entirely). If you do get a slight scratch, it's probably going to be in the wax finish rather than the material itself, so it's totally fixeable. Hope this helps!
Well written! Thanks Lauren-I love your blog!
Nicely done, we are considering cork as well. I am concerned about indoor air quality though. Were you able to find a low VOC glue and finish.
@CRobb, the glue we used has zero VOC's and the for the finish we used low-VOC, OSMO hardwax oil.
Good to know it's available. Thanks.