Rubbing them with teak oil and 0000 steel wool or extra fine sandpaper would go a long way to restoring them. I'd do that first and see how they look before doing anything else.

Lucky you, by the way. Those are great chairs.

As far as the cracks go I used wood glue and some string on an odd shaped piece that broke off of a carved table. Squirted the glue in, pressed pieces together, wiped off excess. Padded with fabric I think and then wrapped string around to hold it together while it dried.

You can find some pretty good how to videos on youtube if you want more detailed info. I found one for removing your popcorn ceilings. Doable but a big project, by the way.

Ok, first my disclaimer: I am not a professional when it comes to restoring anything. From my experience as a DIY'er with some refinishing and refurbishing, I would recommend as Dulcibella did, that you start out with 0000 steel wool. If there is any old finish or wax or old oil, you might want to try rubbing it with steel wool and mineral spirits. This is also a good way to clean them expecially if they are sticky at all. I use no odor or low odor mineral spirits and work out of my apartment and it doesn't bother me a bit. It removes the old wax and can help remove any of the old finish. If that doesn't get you to wood, I again agree with Dulcibella and recommend very fine sand paper just to even things out. Once you get the wood prepped, then you can work on any repairs. For the cracks, I would use Gorilla Glue. It's great but it does expand while drying so you will need to clamp any areas that you glue that could possibly be forced apart. If it does expand out of the crack (very likely), you can remove the excess with a razor blade and sand paper. If there are gouges or voids, fill those with a wood filler. I know you can get it to match different wood shades but I'm not sure about teak. You might have to experiment with that to find a shade that won't show too much when finished.
After that, go to town with the teak oil and 0000 steel wool or a good rag. If you search some of the previous posts, there are varying experiences with teak oil that you might want to read. Personally, I've never used it since I have no teak. I'm a walnut fan.

Hope this helps.

i've used wood glue and "injected" it into the cracks with a syringe. may sound silly but it works surprisingly well. the real challenge is figuring out a way to clamp the piece safely once the glue is in there.

I purchased two large clamps from Home Depot a few years ago - best investment ever. $30 total, and I use them all the time. The joints come out tight and clean, haven't had one repair fail yet.

As for these chairs, I'd probably rub them down with some Watco Danish Oil (natural finish) and be amazed at how nicely they come back.

Oh, another suggestion for clamping. Depending on where the cracks are or whether it's a loose joing, it might take a bit of creative thinking to clamp it. I've also used one of those small ratcheting nylon straps that you can get at home improvement stores or auto part stores. Those can come in handy especially if you have an awkward location to clamp in and it can reduce the need for multiple clamps. Just remember that depending on where the ratchet part ends up, you might need to pad underneath it.

No real additional advice here. Just kudos on the find. I have 10 of these exact chairs (black seats however) as part of a dining set I bought years ago. Love them. Though the joints do tend to loosen with daily dining. I too will be restoring the lot of them. Good luck.

Yes -- I've used a ratcheting nylon strap to clamp (with wood glue) loose chair legs several times. The straps weren't very expensive and they come in handy ALL the time, such a great investment!

You can also try Kwikwood, a wood repair epoxy putty stick. This product can fill in gouges so I'm sure it's great for cracks. You can sand it after 15 mins and paint it after an hour.

Great chairs. I'd just add that Elmer's makes a stainable wood glue that has worked remarkably well for me. Of course that's only if you end up staining them. I agree with the 0000 steel wool and mineral spirits first. Personally I'd stay away from Gorilla Glue because it expands.

An ACE bandage works pretty well to help hold awkward shapes together. You may want to put a piece of waxed paper between the adhesive and the bandage.

Ditto the 0000 steel wool and mineral spirits. It is amazing. Do not be wary of the steel wool.0000 grade is very, very fine. Like a gentle grade of sandpaper.

Don't FILL any cracks. Glue and clamp what you can (proper hide glue would be the best thing to use, but it's not like we all have some around the house). But don't fill anything. If there are any cracks/gaps/chips that cannot be closed and glued, just leave them alone and consider them character. Unless you're a repair expert who's able to find a sliver of wood with a matching grain to patch into the crack, an honest crack will always look better than a big wad of wood putty.

Don't use glue. Give them some oil and see how they are at first. The wood is thirsty, i will come back faster than you think when you give it some moisture.

Thank you so much for all the tips! I'm going to go to Home Depot tomorrow to get some steel wool and Danish Oil and see how it looks. I'm a little nervous to clamp the arched backs because I don't want it to crack more ya know. What type of wood glue do you suggest I use?

Elmer's wood glue should be perfectly fine for what you're going to do. Glue/clamp before you do any cleaning/refinishing--that way any glue that oozes out onto the surface will come off easily when you clean away the surface dirt instead of soaking into the grain.

You need to be able to clamp TIGHTLY--as much pressure as possible. But don't affix the clamp directly onto the wood. Use spacers (I always use scraps of basswood). Otherwise you risk the clamp making dents in the wood.