Brand New Bedding!
Nicole Marie's instructions for making your own bedding are very detailed and descriptive — another reason for readers to possibly attempt this seemingly difficult DIY! Click above for the pics and head below for all the instructions. Give Nicole Marie a THUMBS UP if you find this project helpful....
58/60” Bedding-weight fabric: 10 yards with an additional 1 1/2 yards contrasting fabric*
All purpose thread
Straight edge/ruler, tape measure and hemming gauge
Sewing machine (borrowed again!)
Graph paper or drawing program
*When I bought it, I thought 10 yards was an infinite amount of fabric, and my additional plan included piping and a bedskirt. It was not enough! So now I'm going to make a bedskirt from an IKEA sheet and use my remaining scraps for a contrasting pleat. The 1 1/2 yards contrasting fabric was a little more than I needed, so I made a decorative pillow with the excess (with piping in my first fabric).
After tackling my reading chair slipcover last year, I figured making a duvet cover and pillow shams couldn't be that hard and bought some great fabric at a sample sale for $5/yard; a year later, I was still looking for the perfect complementary fabric. I finally found a great fabric on sale at the Silk Trading Company — just in time for a February Jumpstart Project! Now all I have left to do is figure out what color to paint the bedroom walls (suggestions totally welcome!!)...
Measure and Cut These measurements are for a queen/full duvet cover on a full-sized bed and allow for a four-inch border around the contrasting panel. I also offset the contrasting panel lengthwise instead of centering it so that the contrasting panel is centered when the bed is made. The backside of the duvet does not have a contrasting panel. Using a piece of graph paper (or visio) to represent the length and width of the fabric, draw a scale version of each piece so you can work out where to lay each piece of the fabric. Once you've determined where to cut, layout and cut the fabric on a clean floor (you really need a long, flat surface to cut pieces this size, and in my apartment that means the floor!).
Duvet: W x L Contrasting front panel: 47” x 55” Side panels (x4): 21” x 87” Front top (x1): 47” x 16 1/2” Front bottom (x1): 47” x 21” Back center: 47” x 87” Pillow shams: Contrasting panel (x2): 12” x 15” Front sides (x4): 8” x 17 1/2” Front tops (x4): 6 1/2” x 22” Backs (x4): 16” x 23”
Sewing Piece together front and back:
1. Placing the front sides of the fabric together, measure/mark a 1/2-inch seam allowance and pin the front center panel together (place pins in cross-wise).
2. Sew along the seam allowance.
3. Once the front center panel is sewn together, use the same process to sew the back center to the back sides.
• This also needs to be done on a long, flat surface like the floor. I tried using the bed first, and found it was very hard to keep the pieces straight for pinning.
• Once you make sure you're working from a straight edge, like the edge of the fabric, use a corner square/straight edge to mark the seam allowance and pin along that. I have a roofer's tool that I got from the dollar store that works great for this. Much faster and more accurate than using the hemming gauge along all 87 inches!!
• Put the pin in the fabric at the seam allowance so you can use the pin entry spots as a guide when sewing.
• If your contrasting fabric has a directional pattern, don't forget the front top is smaller than the bottom front.
Create button placket: To close the finished duvet, I created a 2-inch button placket on the top center panels by creating a 2-inch hem on those pieces.
1. Working on the backside of the center panels, measure two-inches, fold up and iron. Fold these two inches over again, iron and pin. I doubled this up so that pressure on the buttons wouldn't tear the fabric.
2. Sew a seam 1/4 inch from each edge of the folded over piece.
3. Repeat the process on the other center panel.
4. On the front panel, create evenly spaced buttonholes following the instructions in your sewing machine's manual (about every 5-6 inches for 6 buttonholes).
Sew front and back together and finish
1. Placing the front sides of the fabric together, pin and sew around all four sides of the duvet cover. The top seam allowance should match up with the inside seam on the button plackets.
2. Finish up by finishing all your seams with a zig zag stitch on the edge, reinforcing and trimming the corners and iron your seams open/flat.
3. Sew the buttons on the back center panel. The easiest way to do this is to turn the duvet inside out and place the button behind the button hole to line it up, and use your first stitch instead of a pin.
Pillow shams: The pillow shams are basically just smaller versions of the duvet cover.
1. Sew the fronts together in the following order (iron seams open and flat when finished sewing): * Top/bottom panel to contrasting panel (line up left edges on the top and right edges on the bottom—see the diagram). * Side panels to contrasting panel (line up top edges on the right, and the bottom edges on the left side—see the diagram) * Join the tops and sides
2. Finish the backs by creating a half inch hem on one side of each panel.
3. Place the front of the fabrics together, overlapping the back panels, and sew together.
4. Finish and trim seams.
5. Turn right side out and iron flat.
6. Mark and sew a seam one inch from the edge of the entire pillow sham. This creates a nice border around the pillow sham and makes them look more finished.
I got most of my fabric for $5 a yard at a sample sale for interior decorating fabric. There are sample sales through out the year, so keep an eye out for them. I found out about the sale at Silk Trading Company from their website (sadly it's over now, but they do have some clearance stuff on the website).
Give Nicole Marie a THUMBS UP if you find this project helpful....