You Will Need:
- 1/2 yard of medium-weight, 54" wide cotton fabric (We used a faux bois print from Home Ec.)
- Lace Doily
- Coordinating thread and a needle
- 18" square pillowform
Instructions:
- Cut the following pieces from the fabric: One 18" x 18" square, plus two 12 1/2" x 18" rectangles. If you'd like, stitch around all edges of these pieces with a zig-zag stitch to help keeping the edges from fraying.
- Pin the doily to the center of the 18" square. Hand-stitch the doily to the fabric, starting from the wrong side of the fabric. It's best to concentrate your stitches in thicker areas of the doily, to help hide the thread. Be sure to secure the center as well as the outer edges of the doily.
- Take one of the rectangles you cut and fold one long edge over 1/2 and press flat with an iron. Pin it in place and stitch down the fold, sewing about 1/4" in from the folded edge. Repeat with the second rectangle.
- Lay the 18" square right-side up, then place the rectangles right-side down on top of the square with the folded and stitched edges overlapping in the middle. Pin around all edges.
- Sew around all edges of the pillow with a 3/8" seam allowance, backstitching in the corners for strength.
- Turn the pillow cover right side out and press seams flat. Insert your pillow form and enjoy!

And be sure to check out Jenny's DIY project last week, How To: Make Over a Lamp
Jenny Ryan is the recent author of Sew Darn Cute: 30 Sweet & Simple Projects to Sew & Embellish and also and is also co-owner of the Home Ec. Department at Reform School.












Sprout Side Table
Awesome--this is a project I can handle. Coincidentally, I have just about a half yard that exact fabric. Thanks for the instructions (although I'm going to skip the doily part).
The only way I've done pillows for years because that's how all of my pillow shams are made. Plus, I hate putting in those darn invisible zippers.
love! the fabric
Another quick way to do it, if you hate putting in zippers / closers, or if the pillow is too big: use the line of buttons from an old button-down shirt.
Thank you so much AT!
My envelope backed pillows often turn out floppy, like they want to open at the back. Maybe it's a question of dimension... they were dinky pillows... but I hate zippers, and buttons, so I'm probably not going to quit doing them.
In regards to whytephoenix's issue, I have sewn quite a few of these same pillow cases, but I add two or three snaps (depending on pillow size) to the opening. It keeps the case tightly closed around the pillow. There are different snaps you can buy. Some you just sew on, and others you have to hammer in with a tool included in the kit. They are very easy to install. The sew-on type is easiest and most discreet if you don't like the look of buttons.
Thanks for the kind comments everyone!
Whytephoenix, I know the exact issue you're talking about and have never been able to pinpoint exactly why it happens. But I usually have the most luck when sewing my pillowcases without an added seam allowance (like with this project, an 18" square pillowcase for an 18" pillow)...once the pieces are sewn up it makes the pillowcase slightly smaller than the pillowform, which seems to create the best look (ie not soggy). But I also love Emika's suggestion of using old shirts (genius!) and MCBfly's suggestion of adding snaps. My all-time fave snaps for ease of use AND color selection come from www.snapsource.com.
I love these. They are super easy to make, wash and store. Plus no zipper lines on your face.
I have another tutorial on how to make envelope back pillows on my blog: http://skyturtle.net/how-to-make-a-5-minutes-envelope-pillowcase/