Many of us recycle and reuse, but there's something vaguely intimidating about making the move to composting. I'll admit that I was guilty of hesitation, worrying about the smelliness of the endeavor and never entirely sure of what can and can't be composted in the first place. But after a bit of investigation and minimal effort, I've realized that composting is really easy, affordable, useful, and sustainable.
It promotes soil fertility, playing a key behind-the-scenes role for those vibrant and verdant outdoor spaces we all love, and it significantly reduces waste, making me feel much better about my ecological footprint. So if you're anything like I was, and you have doubts about the process or just don't know where to start, here are some tips to get you started.
Why: The purpose is to convert organic materials into compost for garden beds and potting soil. Composting recycles kitchen and yard waste, diverting up to 30% from the trash and consequently reducing landfill waste. Compost adds nutrients and introduces beneficial organisms to the soil, and helps promote plant growth.
Where: The first thing to do when starting a compost heap is to select a good location for it. You want to choose an area that's fairly level with good drainage (so the pile doesn't sit in standing water when it rains). Avoid windy areas, and try to find a location with half-day sun. If the heap gets too much direct sunlight, it will dry out, but if it's in heavy shade, it might not receive enough rain water, or it might remain over-moist. For your convenience, try to keep it close to a water source and at a convenient distance from the house, so you don't have to walk too far every time you want to add kitchen scraps. Finally, keep it away from dog areas, since pet waste can contaminate the heap, and don't place it in contact with wooden buildings, since the process of decomposition will attack the walls just as readily as the materials in the pile.
What: A good compost heap strikes a balance between nitrogen-rich green matter and and carbon-rich brown matter, all kept barely moist (a squeeze test should yield a few droplets of water, but no more). If a compost pile has too much wet, green vegetable matter, it can get rather smelly, and if it has too much dry, brown matter, it takes longer to decompose. Some composters recommend an even ratio of brown to green matter, while others recommend keeping the balance at 1/3 green matter, 2/3 brown. You can tweak the balance as you see fit, and sometimes it will vary depending on season.
What to compost:
• coffee grounds
• used tea
• leaves and stalks
• vegetable/ fruit trimmings
• grass clippings
• weeds
• straw or hay
• shredded paper
• manure (from herbivores)
• hair and fur
• wood chips
• dryer lint
• nut shells
• fireplace ashes
What NOT to compost:
• meat, fish, and their scraps and bones
• oily or greasy food and paper
• dairy products
• pet waste
• plants treated with herbicides
• coal or charcoal ash
• black walnut leaves or twigs
Materials will break down at a faster rate if the pieces are relatively uniform, so break any larger pieces of wood, etc., into smaller bits before adding them to the pile. Smaller particles also improve the pile's insulation, which will keep the core temperature warm enough to encourage maximum decomposition. The core of the pile can reach 140ºF because of microbial activity, and optimal decomposition occurs between 110º and 160º.
How: Once you've selected your location, start with a layer of straw or twigs, and then alternate moist and dry layers. Add a nitrogen source (like manure or clover) to activate the pile and to speed its decomposition process. When getting started, keep the layers relatively thin and uniform. Once the pile is active, you can add materials by burying them in the center or just incorporating them more fully when you turn the pile, but to get started, try to disperse the elements fairly evenly, as in the diagram below.

Covering the heap with pieces of wood, plastic tarp, or old carpet scraps will help it retain its moisture and heat, and it can also protect it from elements that might upset its balance (like too much rain).
To maintain care of your pile, water occasionally, or let the rain take care of it if you live in a place with sufficient rainfall. Again, you want to keep the pile barely moist, not soaked. Every week or two, give the pile a turn with a pitchfork or shovel to aerate it. If you aren't adding new material very frequently, you can turn it once every four or five weeks.
When: The time that your compost will be ready depends on the particularities of the heap, but generally, it's ready when the material at the bottom of the heap is dark and rich. With a pile started in the spring, it's probably safe to say that some compost would be ready by the fall.
For more in-depth directions, scientific information, and troubleshooting guidelines, here are a couple of helpful links:
• The United States Environmental Protection Agency
• University of Illinois Extension: Composting for the Homeowner
(Images: 1. Shutterstock, 2. University of Illinois Extension)

Commercial Flour Sa...
awesome and informative! for city-folks without the space for a compost pile of their own, here's another little compost trick: http://www.readingmytealeaves.com/2012/04/two-fifty-life-in-tiny-apartment.html
One key point often missed:
Do NOT compost oranges or lemons. They contain natural chemicals that will kill the bacteria you want in you compost heap. If you've been doing this, notice that the rarely if ever break down? That's why. These are actually bad for the heap.
Really well "working" compost piles steam. I only had this happen once. My former yard had tons of oak trees, and trying to compost those is a real pain. One time I got a huge mound of fresh grass clippings (we used a mulching mower, so I had to get them from a neighbor) and I soaked the leaves and mixed about equal amounts of grass and well watered "dry" oak leaves to fill a compost bin about 1 cubic yard. I threw in some yard fertilizer and dirt, mixed well, and waited. The quantity, moisture level, nutrients, etc must have been in balance, because that time it worked great.
Usually, though, it didn't work so well and the leathery oak leaves lasted year to year un-decomposed. Maple works better.
Another tip for urban folks: check with your city's environment department for programs that offer rebates on compost bin purchases. For example, the City of Chicago has a Sustainable Backyards Program which offers rebates for compost bins, rain barrels, native plants and trees. Happy composting!!!
http://www.cityofchicago.org/content/dam/city/depts/cdot/SustainableBackyards/CompostBinRebate_English.pdf
http://www.cityofchicago.org/city/en/depts/cdot/provdrs/conservation_outreachgreenprograms/svcs/chicago_sustainablebackyardprogram.html
Or you can just do what I do and take everything out there and throw it in!! I don't turn, I don't layer, I don't baby. Anything that's compostable is thrown in a pile. We used concrete blocks to form a bin so the dog doesn't view it as a giant dog dish. We probably have animal visitors at night but since I don't see them, I don't care. No it doesn't break down as quickly as one that is tended properly but I don't have the time to do everything the books say I should. Eventually I get enough compost to mulch around my plants and shrubs and it works for me. Plus I'm keeping compostable materials out of the landfill.
For those who are new at it, don't worry, it smells NICE! Yes, if done as mentioned in the post, it should smell sweet and earthy, like pine needles. I find that I don't even have to water mine as refrigerated veggies and fruits have lots of water in them already. I thought I would feel like I had done something nice for the planet after starting my compost pile, but it goes way beyond that. I have fallen in love with the damned thing.
Egg shells! A good source of Ca++ for the garden.
My DH is a life-long composter, and like Emmi, he loves our pile. Last summer I got chickens, and he never loved them so much as seeing how their dropping make the compost pile steam and produce lovely soil.
The most important part of layering is to prevent the heap from going anaerobic. We occasionally have problems with this if we put in too many grass clippings.
Sherrybinnh, what if you run over the oak leaves with your mulching mower? You probably have too many, but half of composting is getting the elements you put in small enough.
My own problem is keeping it moist enough, since I live in the desert. We finally figured out that we should put a dripper on it.
I am officially inspired!
I do have a silly question though. What kind of wood do I need to use to close the pile in? Also, the pile is flush against the ground right? It's not, ie. a raised bed you're using here?
Thanks for not laughing me off of here.
Like rntravelgnome I more or less ignore my compost and it doesn't smell too bad. It is under a shady tree about 12 feet away from our patio table and I can't smell it sitting there, even on a hot day. I toss in all sorts of forbidden items like citrus. I do have a magic bullet though - chicken poop and pine shavings from their nesting boxes. Ummmm...nitrogen. So, if you're thinking of giving it a try, know that you can be really lazy and still get good compost, it just takes longer. One thing I would warn against is adding mature weeds - their seeds won't break down and will sprout new weeds when you add it to your garden.
@ Girlblue, I think you can work with whatever resources you have at hand.
At my previous hand (with a huge back yard with tons of maple leaves that yielded over 80 brown bags of leaves each fall) I smartened up after a couple of years and I built a compost from scrap fence posts (which were sitting in metal spikes, so no digging) and scrap boards. The posts and the boards were used to create a rough frame and I ran plastic mesh (with about 1/2" eyelets) around it. Second layer was landscaping fabric (basically just to keep the all the stuff in one pile). THe front was had horizontally positioned boards that I could slide out (for an easy access). I used some screws and the mesh and the landscaping fabric were just stapled to the frame (My right hand hurt for about 3 days from all the stapling). It served me great for the remaining 3-4 years I stayed in the house and it turned most of the maple leaves into a wonderful compost. I basically used nothing but maple leaves and here and there some birch leaves.
Great tutorial, thanks. My family is excited about working on our gardens this spring, and a compost heap would be a good addition. We also have a good place to put one -- out of sight behind the garden shed.
Thanks! I have an old firepit that is dug into the ground but that we are no longer using. I have been stumped with ideas for how to re-purpose it. Problem is that It is about 5 feet from the corner where we let the dogs do their business. I am not sure if that is far enough? Any thoughts?
Do they attract critters? I imagine that skunks and raccoons must be very interested in compost piles...
By keeping dairy and meat out of the compost pile, you will make it less appealing to critters. And if the skunks and raccoons offer to turn your compost pile for you...
If you don't have yard space, there is now an indoor composter available that uses earthworms and is actually cute. It's called the City Bin. They are raising money on IndieGoGo now to go into production. I got one and can't wait to get it!
Here is the IndieGoGo site http://igg.me/p/84405/x/273821