We are about to install Ikea butcher block countertops, but I'm wondering what we need to use to seal them? Can anyone recommend specific products?

cynmc76,

You may want to look into beeswax sealer for furniture and/or look into professional products for butcher blocks.

I'm glad to see that in addition to not subscribing to newspapers, AT is also recycling their own posts.

our ikea butcherblock is pretty, but doing the dishes has become a process now - covering the wood with towels, cleaning up immediately after cooking or spills or dishes, etc.

in a little over 2 years, i have had to sand and reoil (a process that isn't so horrible, just an afternoon of mild labor) because of splits, unevenness, and black funky spots from under the dishdrainer.

but it IS good looking. it is NOT, however, durable.

If you must have stain-proof, chopping-proof, hot pan-proof, bacteria-proof . . . get Corian. It comes in about 2000 colors (including solids and granite looks), and because it's machined to order you won't have ANY seams -- even between the countertop and the backsplash.

That said: I love the warm look of butcherblock and am pleased to find out Ikea still has it.

In our last house we had the Varde series cabinetry in our kitchen, and I really hated the upkeep on the butcher block counters on them.

When we installed our Ikea butcher block counter tops in our current house about a year ago, I decided to justs seal them. We used a salad bowl finish, which is (or is like) a poly that, once dry, is non-toxic. It has *some* shininess to it I guess, but it's not what I would call "high gloss". If you've ever seen, well, wooden salad bowels, that's about how shiny they are.

So far they still look great, though they're not aging or acquiring any sort of patina, which for some people is the draw.

That's "bowl" not "bowel".

nothing wrong with bringing back posts periodically. After all, we learn as we go, especially with products that wear and require maintenance.

kdkaboom,

where the butcher block meets a constantly moist environment was a concern of mine when researching butcher block material. Of course wood wicks moisture. There must be some sort of precaution to take when sealing sinks, drainboards and pipes in butcher block countertops. Something like kerdi or one of those liquid membranes perhaps. I would think you could slap enough beeswax or food grade mineral oil on that countertop though to get it so that water basically beads up when splashed on there.

art,

next time i get ambitious enough to sand/reoil again, i'm going to try another product. we were using ikea's wood oil when we first installed it and for this first reoil. so...probably not great quality, nope.

katy

They're just not practical near a sink. Some folks don't mind all the extra work that goes into caring for the wood, but really, it will absorb water if it gets wet. And then bacteria will grow in there. Imagine cooking and constantly worrying that some raw chicken juice might drip onto the counter.... it's a hassle. I cook a lot, and I need a non-porous surface that can be easily cleaned every time I cook.

If you have a portion of countertop or island that is not adjacent to the sink or the stove, I think then it would be do-able.

I'd rather invest in some really thick good wooden cutting boards to use as necesary and clean, care for and put away, as necessary.

I bought the birch ones on Friday, they are being installed tomorrow...if you click on my name below you can follow it to my url and I'll put up pics. I'm so excited. Not only did I say about $3000 but the super-fug green formica counters that the previous owner put in will be gone-gone-gone-gone. You see pics of the super-fug green countertops up on my blog now. Warning...they are truly super-fug.

My folks had butcher block counters installed from Ikea and had an extra couple of feet that they used as a cutting board. When they moved, I took the board with me to my new place. It's now used for all manner of pastry making, since we have a tiled countertop at our apartment, and it comes in handy when we need more prep area, as it fits perfectly over our small kitchen sink!

I'm redoing my kitchen from the studs up, and I installed the ikea BB counters temporarily until I relocate the water heater (then I'm going for something dark.) I like them but agree about they aren't great near the sink. If you go to cut them yourself, like I did, you really need some good tools. They take a while to cut out for sinks, etc.

We just put in Ikea butcher block countertops (in the thicker, oak style) and I love them. I don't find it that difficult to wipe up spills/ splashes near the sink after I wash dishes - I mean I'd do that with ANY countertop. Oiling it every few weeks (with plain old mineral oil) is pretty simple too and makes it look great. I couldn't be happier.

We've just moved into a house with these in the kitchen, and they really are quite nice. The rest of the Ikea kitchen isn't horrible either. In fact, I can't say I mind it at all. Great for the price.

This post set off the AT stylebook alarm. Perhaps intended as an in-house comment?

I like butcher block and it's way cheaper than any other decent material. I suppose it's not for some people, though. Ikea is OK, but if you want real maple butcher block, try this place:

http://www.butcherblockspecialist.com

They have good prices and carry just about every type, from the inexpensive (finger-jointed maple) to the super-deluxe (true end-grain butcher block in maple, cherry or walnut). They will cut to size for you and ship it in a well-constructed wood container to help prevent damage. A good deal, and convenient too! I bought a finger-jointed maple counter and it's way nicer than Ikea and not that much more expensive.

We put these in our kitchen. I agree with the comments suggesting they not be used around the sink. First, they are thick, and most sink installation kits do not account for their thickness, so you will need additional hardware (or a Dremel). Further, ours have warped ever so slightly - but I notice it.

One installation tip: we had to join two pieces close to the sink. The store staff recommended the joint be under the sink itself, so that's what we did. Only later, after I had cut the wood, did we watch the CD they gave us about installation. It is actually recommended that the joint between pieces be several inches from the edge of the sink.

Has anyone used pronomen/butcher block countertop in the bathroom? I see this in the Ikea catalog, but I wonder if it is really practical. We have 3 young kids who splash and get toothpaste all over-wouldn't the wood need to be sealed?? We want to get a colorful Mexican talavera sink (to go with a blue Marmoleum floor and simple white vanity) and are thinking that wood would look nice and and not contrast with the floor. Other ideas for a countertop?

chris-if you are using the counter top, I honestly would go with either a traditional bread-kneading bowl, stainless or laminate-wood is too porous even when it is oiled to be good lots of scraping for cleaning-then the whole issue if you have butter, eggs or milk in your dough? I have baked for 35 years, taught by my gran, and wood has butcher block has been my least favorite=if you could even afford it, a small counter top area of marble or granite would be lovely-less "sticky"

Mimi, if your still here (or anyone else following up on a similar research), I suspect that junkers oil is among the choices of sealants to be used on butcher block countertops, only if not intended for use as a cutting block in food preparation; hence, perhaps, all the confusion.

I have an IKEA butcher block counter that I love. My biggest problem is around the sink, as others have mentioned. I should have put in a double sink so I could use one side for drying the dishes, but didn't think of that at the time. So now my drain board tends to drain down next to the sink under the drain board because I don't have it hanging over the edge of the sink. (My stainless steel sink has a very high lip around the edge, so if I prop the end of the drain board over the edge of the sink, it drains backward!) Maybe all I need to do is get a different drain board that has a steeper incline and I can place it over the edge of the sink. Does anyone have any other suggestions? I tried placing a towel under the board, but as expected, having a wet towel there wasn't any better. The wood is starting to warp, and it's only about a month old . . .

A better way to seal the counter tops...
Tung Oil!

..That will give you a better seal, more of a warm glow and more of a glossy shine than mineral oil. It is non-toxic as long as you get "Pure Tung Oil", and not "catylized" or some other such thing.

Put the can in a bowl in the sink and run hot water over it for about 10 minutes to warm it up, then use it the same way you'd use that Ikea finish stuff (which is crap, IMO). I.e. pour it on thick, spread it with a rag let it sit for 10 minutes, wipe off the excess. Let it dry for 24 hours and repeat the next day, and the next... do 4 - 6 coats when the counter tops are new. You shouldn't sand between coats, the oil will fill the pours.

It will do a great job of sealing - including around the sinks. I've read the Chinese used to seal boats with the stuff... Like mineral oil, it won't go rancid, but it gives a nicer finisher (IMO - YMMV).

Oh, and BTW, I wouldn't go using my countertops as a chopping block because I'd be too lazy to clean them properly, but if you do... ignore some of the posts here saying it's dangerous. You can disinfect them just fine with water-diluted vinegar. Wipe or spray it on, let it sit for 2 or 3 minutes, wipe it up, then apply a fresh coat of oil.

Cheers,
Chris

It seems like there are many opinions about a variety of concerns about butcher block. I have seen Ikea Butcher Block tops and the ones I have seen have been cracked or warped or both. I put them in the same category as Plastic laminate "faux" butcher block. They are low quality prone to failure and therefore impugn the industry as a whole. There are several good quality butcher block manufactures which supply top quality goods. Michigan Maple Block Co out of Michigan has been making them since the late 1800s. Bally Block out of Pennsylvania is also a reputable manufacturer. There are others. The cheap imported tops Ikea sells is not what I would recommend...in the end when they fail it will be "wood tops" which will pay the price in reputation.
Also, as far as being safe for food prep. Yes both Michigan Maple Block and Bally block produce NSF certified tops which have always been safe for food contact. You can read more if you visit the www.mapleblock.com website.