apartment therapy changing the world, one room at a time

This was my question and I should clarify. I pulled apart the chair very carefully, photographing each step, and I used the original fabric as a pattern to cut the new fabric. (Yes, the arm sections are separate from the back... the back is one piece, the front is three).

Any help would be appreciated!

I am about to attempt this exact same project -- found the same chair in white on the street and am looking for some fabric this weekend. I've never done anything like this before, but like a good challenge. I'd be very interested in any specific tips!

Hi Jennifer,
I do upholstery (as a part time job) and I would recommend you take it to an upholsterer. The rounded back requires "curve ease" and you need to know how to apply those. Also, when I can, I try to follow the original pattern: I would lay down those three front pieces, trace them and cut them out following the outline. The seams would have to be traced exactly, the outer edges (the ones you staple) I'd allow an inch or more (afterwards you trim the edges). Then you have to sew the "inback" to the "arms" and staple away. I don't know where you live but an option is to sign up for an upholstery class at your local community college. My local comm college charges around $90 for 10 classes (10 weeks) If that was a job I'd need to do, I'd charge between $80 & $130. The difference in price is because I'd need to see what kind of fabric you want to upholster it in (need to match pattern? Is it stiff and it doesn't stretch easily?, etc) & what condition the foam and the original chair is in. These are all things that an upholsterer bases his pricetag on.
Hope this helps a little.

Did some upholstery of Platner chairs and ditto to all of the above...judicious cutting of V shapes into the fabric to eliminate overlap and bulking and also trimming close. Mine turned out better than the next reupholstering job done by a professional! Don't forget the role of steaming. Think it through and then go for it!

You might try cutting that piece on the bias?

heavier weight fabric will help...

I agree with Martita. This is a difficult job, even for a professional.

Use a fabric with two way stretch and make it slightly smaller?

wow, you guys are making suggestions that i dont even understand! this is why i will never upholster something myself...i DIY almost everything, but i leave upholstery to the profesh'es.

Hi!
Wow- this is an ambitious first time project!
I haven't tried anything this complex myself, but I'm betting that when you look at the chairs closely you'll notice that the original vinyl cover fabric will have a plastic "skin" glued/heat bonded to a thin stockinette (a thin double-knit) backing AND that the fabric is actually molded/stretched to fit the curve of the seat edge where the most skillfully placed seams would have a tough time doing the same thing with a woven fabric.
In cases like this, I'd have to agree with the pro above- you'd most likely be happier saving your pennies and going to a pro and just congratulating yourself on getting two really really cool chairs so cheap.
But if you're super-determined to tackle this on your own, there's only two fabrics I know that can be molded that way:
A- Heavy, woven wool that's cut so the curviest parts of the chair edges are covered by fabric on the bias. (which could be steamed with a thin dish cloth between the fabric and the iron, and firmly teased and pulled into the tight wrinkle-free shape when finally on the chair)
or
B- Heavy-gauge vinyl upholstery fabric of the same type already on the chair. This would use an iron on "low" and a cotton sateen press cloth (to avoid heat-pressing terry-cloth nubs or woven texture into the vinyl) to heat the fabric and then gently stretch/mold it over those edges.

Really, go pro here. If you use stretchy, the seat will buckle and not cling to the concave seat, and veggie or synthetic fiber won't "mold" around the edges without wrinkling. And the seams will have to be flat felled or ironed flat and double-seamed...a really tough job.

great suggestions, everyone!

I recently recovered my kitchen chairs (there was much less fabric/time involved in my chairs, I must admit!) but just to make it easier on me, I embraced the creases. I am definitely not a perfectionist, but I do love symmetry and I did my best making the creases match on each side. I feel this gives my chairs a more handmade feel (if you're into that kinda thing!) and it was much less stressful than attempting to eliminate creases completely.

jako is right...heavier fabric will make a big difference. But being a seamstress and occasional re-upholsterer I would take those gorgeous babies to a pro.

thanks, I just bought two chairs like this and was wondering how much to expect for upholstery.