I have a confession: I'm a design writer who, until recently, had never actually painted a room. I've spent countless hours staring at fan decks, and I've memorized more shade names that I care to admit, but as someone who has hopped from rental to rental, rarely staying put for more than a year at a time, painting never quite seemed worth it. But as of this month, I'm proud to say that my neophyte status is no more.
While this will probably be old hat to many of you, my guess is that I'm not the only first-time painter out there. Luckily, my boyfriend's dad was a contractor, and he's spent many hours with a roller in hand. But not all first-time painters are so fortunate, so here are a few things I learned on my first go-round:
• I had read that one gallon of paint would cover about 350 square feet. While this is a good place to start your estimate, be prepared to alter your paint amount based on the color, wall texture, and how many coats you need to do. I chose a rather deep, dark hue for slightly textured walls, and it took a lot more paint than I expected to get sufficient coverage. So in short, keep your paint chip handy in case you need to buy an additional quart or two.
• Using primer is a good way to save some money, since you'll need to use fewer coats of mixed paint, which is more expensive, and it will also help give your walls a truer color. I assumed that because my walls were already a light color that primer would be unnecessary, but because I was using a supersaturated hue, it still helped me avoid having to paint lots of extra coats. The process has been streamlined with a number of paint-and-primer combos, which I found to be a huge help.
• Before you use a new roller, dampen it very lightly. Then gently shake it or run your hand down the roller to get rid of all the moisture. You could also roll it on a drop cloth, grocery bag, or other spare material that does not have print or ink on it. This will help you get any hidden lint particles off the roller so they can't create tiny, lumpy messes on your wall.
• Paint in a "W" or "M" motion, without lifting the roller from the wall. This will help disperse the paint evenly, and on walls with some texture, it will make sure that problem spots are covered from multiple angles.
• Start your first stroke with an upward motion, because if you roll down on the first stroke, the paint can puddle under the roller and run down the wall. You'll also know if you've overloaded your roller if the roller drips or smears instead of rolling across the surface. On the flip side, don't be timid about the amount of paint you get on the roller. There were some patches where my roller was too dry, and they definitely had to be fixed later.
• Paint one wall at a time. Tempting though it may be, don't paint all the eye-level surfaces in the room and then come back with the extension pole. This can create visible lines in the painting.
• Leave at least two hours for drying between coats, especially with deeper, richer colors. Even if it seems like the paint is dry, it probably isn't, and taking ample time between coats will ensure that your color looks more even when all is said and done. I found this to be a useful window for pizza and a movie.
• Pull off your tape while the paint is still slightly wet for a smoother seam. If you let it dry too much, there's the danger of pulling a bit of paint off with the tape. We used Frogtape with excellent results. There was virtually no bleeding, and the lines were very clean.
• Invest in a good trim brush. A better brush will save you lots of time, and it will really make the job look so much better.
For those pros in the audience, what other tips do you have for first-time painters?
(Image: Carolyn Purnell)

Shaw's Original Fir...
Buy good paint. Nowhere is "You get what you pay for" more true than where paint's concerned. You'll get better coverage and it won't spatter so you won't have to waste time cleaning up. I am a die-hard Benjamin Moore fan and I never even cover stuff in the room that I'm painting. The stuff goes on like a dream. It's like painting with cake batter.
After painting the entire interior of our home after a remodel, I would recommend an extension pole for the roller. Even just painting the walls, I could paint all day and my wrist, arms, and back were never sore.
Dropcloth--always use one. I think one of the first times I was painting a room (age 12) I just had to do a little touch up and brought the can of paint and a paintbrush across to the other side of the room (not on the dropclothed area) set down the paint can and just happened to knock it over. Paint is not easy to clean off carpet :( I think a chest of drawers ended up going in that spot...
Excellent tips from article and comments so far.
If your room requires more than one gallon, "box" or mix all the paint together. This way you're guaranteed exact color matches from gallon to gallon. Otherwise, you risk having two slightly different colors on the same wall.
The house I recently purchased had horse hair plastered walls that were covered in wallpaper. I hired a professional to remove the wallpaper and paint the walls (ceiling & trim) because I couldn't be bothered dealing with horse hair plastered walls. I'm not made of money, but this was the wisest investment I have ever made. My walls came out beautiful.
*has* horse hair walls (not had). Sorry.
Frogtape is good (really good) but painting the edges with no tape and a good angled brush is better--and I think, in the long run, not any more time-consuming.
If you need to take a break and your rollers are full of paint, put them in a gallon sized ziploc bag. It will seal out the air and keep the roller from drying out. No need to wash out the roller.
great list. agree about priming. esp if you are using expensive paint, it really improves coverage of finish paint and you end up using less of that.
also we typically have a lightly damp rag nearby to wipe up anything that isn't covered that accidentally gets painted. easy to remove paint when it's wet, not so much when it's dried up.
finally, don't skimp on brush clean up. brushes will last longer if you take care of them. i made the mistake of being lazy and wrapping my brush for too long (more than a day) and it took forever to clean.
After years of using drop cloths (basically old sheets) I have found rolls of paper (in the paint department) to be way tidier and easier to use on the floor. I still use the drop cloths to cover furniture.
I need a lot of light, and prefer to paint during the day.
Agree with Lori's suggestion above, but I like Saran wrap around the roller. Keeps it from drying out even overnight.
I like to tape my drop cloth to the baseboards. I find they will move around a lot while you are working
I can't paint to save my life. I've botched up so many times it is tragic. I don't even try anymore; I call in the pros. Much less stress on everyone.
If you are painting an accent wall or meeting a wall which is painted in a different color, paint the tape edge on the new paint side with the color wall you are meeting.. that way when you pull the tape off any bleeding will be in the color of the wall you are meeting instead of the new color.
Forget the tape - I agree that a good angled 2" paintbrush and a steady hand is faster. Make sure you cut in first (paint around the edges) but my main tip is to make sure you cut in enough! I did a good job on the edges and then when it came time to do the rolling I hadn't made that edge paint thick enough...ended up rolling paint onto the ceiling because I had to get too close to the edge. Now I'm about to move and have to go cover it up with white paint. Grr.
Don't discount preparation. If your walls are dented, have bumps, or paint dribbles, you can get rid of those before you paint. A good razor blade, spackle, and sandpaper will help you get a smooth wall.
To add to the suggestion about wrapping the roller in saran wrap when you take a break -- put the wrapped roller in the refrigerator, and it can last that way for a couple of days if you're doing another coat on another day.
And if you do misjudge the amount of paint you need and have to go back and get more, go to the same place and have them use the same machine. Because different machines might mix the same formula slightly differently, and it will show. Learned that one the hard way.
There are so many great suggestions here! I have found that some drop cloths tear easily, so I use plastic shower curtains from the dollar store instead. They hold up pretty well and they can be re-used.
Always paint in one direction. If you are going up-down any strokes that are side-side will show up when the sun hits the wall.
When changing wall colors (i.e. - an accent wall) it is best to have the transition at an inside corner than an outside corner.
Paint in your bare feet! That way if you have any drips or dribbles you'll know you stepped in them and can clean your feet with that wet rag SKNY0104 mentioned, and you won't track paint around the house. If you paint in shoes you'll never know you stepped in anything. Besides...it make it more fun.
Use painter's caulk.
If you don't have a utility sink in your house, set-up a station outside (with hose, bucket, etc) for clean-up in advance of painting. This is especially helpful when you are painting with more than one color.
Most paint and primer duos need 24 hours in b/w coats. I learned that the hard way. Took 3 coats of that when I just gave it 2 hours between coats.
Stir the paint.
Cut in (!)...then roll.
Order an extra quart and leave it sealed to cover marks later on.
Good paint will stay on the brush -- no need to wipe on paint can lip. The paint should be "loaded" up into the bristles.
Dark and/or moisture-prone areas (bathrooms, closets on north sides of buildings in coastal areas, etc.) would do well with coat of a mold-repellent paint.
Paint does not come off concrete.
This may seem obvious, but don't underestimate how long it might take to tape. Painting is generally the quick and easy part, good taping is the long and tedious part. Also, even after you're done painting, have some paint on hand so you can see the paint in all different types of light. Some missed spots only show up in certain light and you'll want to retouch.
I was glad to see painting in a W motion on here. I was taught that years ago and people always look at me funny when I do it that way.
If you purchase in a good angled 2" brush for cutting-in, you probably don't need tape, except between the baseboard and carpet, or trim and glass. I never use tape between trim and wall, or wall and ceiling any more.
Instead of wetting your brush to de-lint it, wrap it in masking or packing tape, then pull the tape off. This actually removes the lint vs smearing the lint between the dry surface and the damp roller.
No tape for me either. Unless your walls are perfectly smooth with no texture whatsoever, paint will get under the tape and you're just going to have to redo the edges. Total waste of time.
+1 to SKNY0104 on cleanup, an essential part of every project.
Keep a wet rag/paper towel in your back pocket for the inevitable drips. They're much easier to clean up right away, when they're wet! Having it handy is especially nice when you're up on a ladder cutting in at the ceiling.
Paint in bare feet!
This way, if there's a drop you feel it before you track it across the room, or worse, the house.
Also, I discovered that while painting the ceiling is easy, be sure the paint finish is the same. I used eggshell and the previous coat was a pearl finish so even after two coats there were strange spots of shiny lines. It took forever to fix, and months later I still will catch flashes of shininess in stubborn spots when the light is just right.
To save water, I clean my brushes and rollers in the utility sink when the washing machine is draining.
I have painted many rooms along with 2 of my friends. The tallest of us begins with the upper trim, I follow with the lower trim, and my other friend comes along last and rolls the middle. We get done really fast!
For some reason, greens are especially prone to showing lines. When trimming, fan out the edge so there is not a hard line...and then roll into the wet trim as soon as possible. Doing all the trim, and letting it dry before rolling is a big mistake. Having 2-3 people is really helpful for this.
--Lock out toddlers & pets ...WITHOUT blocking their route to the bathroom/litterbox.
--After you prepare your surface, and before you start painting, take a break so you can do a last inspection with fresh eyes. Wipe down the dust again with a new cloth.
--If you're painting in humid weather, close everything up and put the AC on high to help things dry more quickly. This trick from a decorator friend in a coastal town.
--If your children like to help, it will be less stressful for you to involve them with primer than with final coats. When primer is a big contrast with the previous color, they'll really see progress and that will thrill them.
--When using spray paint, mask ALL DIRECTIONS around the surface to be painted -- including the floor and your face. I forgot my mask recently when I blew my nose the metallic black boogers thrilled my 5yo. I can't let myself think about what that did to my lungs....sometimes I think my life's purpose is to serve as an example to others.
--Don't lean on the ladder rail, because if it wasn't firmly clicked in place, you can do a nice Olympic flip onto the floor. (Yep...that's the Voice O' Experience ® speaking.)
--If you have to leave materials outside, make sure it's completely covered against weather -- even exterior-grade plywood will warp in the rain before it's painted.
Good article!
Before painting:
Go slow, take your time and do it right. It's more fun that way.
- Remove the switch plates and outlet covers, hinges and hardware whenever possible. If not possible, tape them off carefully, cutting around the edges with a razor to get a crisp line.
- Fill cracks and holes and sand them smooth.
- Wash and clean all surfaces and wait for them to dry.
- Fill gaps where the trim meets the walls with a tiny bead of caulk.
- Keep a damp rag in your pocket to clean up spills, drips and crooked edges.
- It really is better to forego the tape and slowly paint your edges with a trim brush. If you make a mistake, wipe with a damp rag and try again.
- 2 coats always.
- Once you are done and the paint is dry, go around the room with a small round art brush and a sponge. Clean up the edges with the brush, and sponge a little paint over any little spots you might have missed.
- Paint dries in a couple hours but it takes several days to cure. For things like furniture or trim, be very gentle with them for the first few days so you don't scratch your new paint.
-Oil based paint cleans up with vegetable oil and dish soap. No need to use solvents.
-Wrap brushes and rollers in plastic bags overnight if needed. I use regular shopping bags -- just squeeze all the air out and twist closed.
Cover your hair!
I disagree with "paint in one direction," if you're talking about rolling. Most everything I read said to paint deliberately in two directions: Ms and Ws, then Zs (if you get the visual).
I'm a teacher and have summers off, and I generally make sure I do it in breaks:
Day 1: Clean, move, and prepare
Day 2: Tape
Day 3: Primer or first coat
Day 3/4: Second coat
This way, I can do all my dirty painting jobs in my sloppy clothes first thing in the (cool) mornings, then take a shower and go about my day. I really hate painting in hot, humid weather (in fact, am waiting until Sunday to do interior closets, because it's sticky sticky sticky!), and I don't like having to clean myself and my space up numerous times in one day.
If you do two coats, do you pull of the tape while the paint is wet both times, or just the second time??
Love the barefoot-painting idea! Also, Parnassus, amazed to hear about vegetable oil and dish soap for oil paints!!!! It makes sense though - hydrogenated oils were actually first used/marketed as degrreasers (before some monster realized it would be extremely profitable to market them as food, thus ruining the health of millions upon millions of people... but I digress...)
True, a bead of caulk where wood-trim meets wall makes things look unbelievably better; BUT, I find the caulk makes it really hard to get a straight line so if the paint colors are different, I ALWAYS try to leave the caulk till after I've painted. I just make sure the bead is tiny so the caulk isn't obvious. I'm sure many will disagree, because the traditional way (which has to be right, right?) is the opposite of what I'm saying.
Also, I'm amazed nobody's talking about those little pads, about 3x5". For edges like at the ceiling, they are unbelievably faster than using a good angle brush, and give a great, even line. I also use them in corners. They have a texture similar to a roller, so the difference between the brushed and rolled areas isn't so obvious.
Third, I take a very bright light, like a halogen worklight (or tip a halogen torchiere over to direct it at the walls), and scan the whole area. That way I see every tiny place where I've "missed a spot." Otherwise, I'm finding areas that need touch-up for weeks afterward!
I love painting, but I hate the clean up. My top tips, after much, much painting over the years are as follows: Invest in a box of disposable latex gloves. They are a quick and easy way to avoid having to scrub paint off your hands and have saved me many a manicure! I also use plastic shopping bags to cover my paint trays before pouring paint in. You can easily squeeze excess paint from them back into the tin once you have finished painting, and then toss them out, leaving a clean tray. And in the interests of full disclosure, when I'm feeling especially lazy, I budget mid-price brushes into my painting costs. At the end of a couple of days of painting, there's nothing more satisfying then just tossing them in the bin as you step back to admire your hard work!
Protect the floors! I prefer painter's plastic over drop cloths. I find the drop clothes move too much and paint drips can bleed through.
Recently, I used the trim and the tape overhang to seal the floors with painter's plastic.
http://designingalifesheloves.com/2012/08/09/pesky-paint-protected-floors/
I like to roll the color onto the wall first before cutting in the edges. That way if you get the color up and decide you don't like it, you wouldn't have wasted all that time cutting in only to do it all over again...not saying this has happened to me or anything. ;)
i watched a number of "hot to paint without tape like the pros" videos on youtube and have never gone back! taping takes so much time and the results are not always great.
A variation on the paint in bare feet suggestion--paint in old socks, that way drips are absorbed and not accidentally spread around.
Re: when to re-affix your outlet plates post-painting
When you paint you will (hopefully) have removed the faceplates on your outlets and switches. My advice is to be sure that the wall has cured (usually 24-36 hours, but check the label) before screwing the plates back on. I recently learned this the hard way when we painted, then put the ugly almond colour plates on after the paint "felt dry", then had some paint peel/get stuck to the plate when we got around to re-wiring and replacing the outlets and plates with nice bright white ones. So annoying!
i have a couple of questions... 1)how to you clean your brushes and 2) what do you do with the stuff that you cleaned you with?? (liquid that is) if it is water is it ok to just pour it onto our yard?? or down the sink???? I know I have to take the paint buckets to the dump,but do they take the other stuff??? thanks as you can read I don't paint much and might just hire someone to come do it for me. Asthma and paint fumes don't go good together.
There's nothing more frustrating than seeing people on design shows, commercials, etc paint in a zig zag motion.
I also never ever, ever tape. Invest in a really good brush and practice steadying your hand in an inconspicuous spot, once you get the hang of it you will shave off so much time by not taping.
- Preparation: Firstly, unscrew all switch plates, receptacle covers, doorknobs and light fixtures. Unscrew anything that's attached to anything you intend to paint. Then. a sharp scraper and a piece of sandpaper are your best friends. Run your hand lightly over the whole surface. Caress every square inch. When a tiny lump causes your hand to hang up, scrape or sand it away. Run the edge of a scraper or an old screwdriver along a crack to open it slightly before filling it. I use pre-mixed drywall compound. A deep crack or hole will need two fillings, but it is worth it for a smooth result. Do not over-fill. That means extra sanding and dust. Before painting, vacuum first and then wipe down all surfaces with a damp dish towel to remove dust.
- Tape? Don't. Edges end up looking hard and industrial, or lumpy with built-up paint.
- Brushes? Buy the best in the shop. You really do get what you pay for. Cheap brushes are difficult to control, lose hairs and make you grumpy.
Angled brushes? Brilliant. Use one for cutting in between walls and ceiling, along base boards and windows. Again, buy the best.
- Roller? Don't. Use a 4" or larger block brush. It will give you a lovely, smooth finish. It is faster, neater and less wasteful than using a roller. Rollers, even fine-napped ones leave a horrid orange peel finish. Yuck.
- Plan? Yes. Paint the ceiling first. Do it even if you don't think it needs to be done. Then start at the door and work around the room in one direction. Work from top to bottom. Finish one wall before beginning the next. When you get back to the door, you're outta there.
- Sand and undercoat woodwork if you plan to use oil-based paint.
- Carpet? Push a length of masking tape about 1/4 inch under the baseboard with a scraper. Paint. Remove the tape within 15 minutes. Don't leave it any longer.
- Helpers? Make sure that they understand that the agenda is to paint a room, not to have a visit and a lot of laughs. Save that for the meal you will have delivered when the job is done and looking great.
Done? Leave the room for a whole day, if at all possible, before putting it back together.
Picky? Yes I am. People pay me good money for excellent results and I want to feel proud of my work.
@Mary BC, painting in multiple directions only works if you are compeletely consistant on how you do the walls. Trust me, one roll of paint going the opposite direction than the others will definitely show when the sun or other lights hit the wall.
I agree with those who said buy good paint. We only buy sherwin williams or benjamin moore. The color options are better + they give better coverage than cheaper options
I learned the hard way, as one commenter also did, that even when using latex paint you should allow the paint to dry 24 hrs before painting the next coat. This is especially true with supersaturated colours. I painted a wall red, did a second coat three hours later, and the paint literally pulled off the wall in sheets.
If you are going to need more than 1 gallon but less than 5 gallons here is a good trick. Open 2 gallons of paint at the same time and mix half of one with half of the other. I once painted a room using two gallons of paint, but used one can first and finished with the second. The result was terrible. You could tell where I changed to the second can of paint because the shades were just slightly off. By mixing you can reduce any subtle differences in shade. Of course if you need up to 5 gallons then buy a 5 gallon bucket of paint instead of 5-1 gallon cans.
If you are painting a pattern or stripes using painters tape, paint over the tape using the background wall color before painting the accent color. This seals any gaps in the edges of the tape eliminating bleeding underneath so you end up with crisper lines when you remove the tape.
What Painter Tim said. Also:
Prep is everything. Sand all the walls with a pole sander and inspect or feel every square inch. Patch and sand as needed.
Never work out of the original paint can. Work out of a clean, empty 1-gallon can or work bucket. You'll always have a clean can to store the leftover paint in, clearly indicating the brand, color, finish, and any other specs.
Lose the painters tape. You're wasting time. Except for baseboards.
Wear your helpful tools: keep a damp rag in your back pocket, a 5-in-1 tool in another pocket, and a piece of sandpaper in another pocket. Saves time.
Don't use plastic drop cloths. Use heavy cloth drop cloths. Paint doesn't dry on plastic, and you can easily track it around. Painting barefoot sounds like an invitation to injury. Wear closed-toe, comfortable shoes, pay attention to what you are doing, and check your soles before stepping off the drop cloth onto carpeting.
Don't put paint rollers or brushes wrapped in plastic in the fridge. Your foods will smell like paint. Ask me how I know.
Forget those silly roller pans. Use a 5-gallon bucket with a grid in it. Saves bending over, and there's less chance of spills.
Never paint holding just the roller handle, unless you're painting a room so small there's no room for a simple extension handle. Give your wrist a break. Even a broom handle screws into a roller handle.
Hmm... Interesting.
I always paint in a zig-zag, trying to do as I read on the web, and go both directions (horizontal, then vertical). I can honestly say there's not a single paint line showing in any room of my house - whether the sun hits it or not.
I don't think I've ever done it any other way, and it's always been fine. ::Shrug::
http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-use-a-paint-roller.html
http://lowescreativeideas.com/Home101/Paint_Interior_Walls_0811.aspx
Don't just wrap wet brushes and rollers in plastic to store for later---wrap a wet paper towel around them first. Wet, not damp. You can also cover a paint tray by sticking it in a large plastic bag and tucking the bag close around it. I've left rollers in the paint this way too with no problem BUT it's a good idea to refill the tray generously before storing. The larger the quantity of paint, the longer it takes to dry up.
To cut in: get a 2" angled sash brush with the right bristles for the paint you're using (no natural bristles for water-based paints, they get soggy after awhile!).
Decant your paint into a small container that you can comfortably hold in one hand. The little buckets sold for this purporse are great with their handles that just kind of strap your hand to the bucket. No need to actually grip it.
Load only about 1/3 of the length of the bristles with paint. If you're right-handed, start at the left end of the ceiling line and paint about a 6" stretch at a time, going from right to left. Start about 1" below the ceiling line and move up and over to the line, that way you'll discharge any initial blob of paint below the actual line and there will be less chance of it getting on the ceiling. I also bend the bristles of the brush as I paint so that I'm actually pushing a bead of paint ahead of the brush onto the wall instead of dragging the paint on behind the brush---if that makes sense.
I can do about 3' before needing to move the ladder. I find it helps a lot to have a ceiling light on, or at least a work light that is high up.
Slather your hands up with lotion before painting---makes washup WAY easier when you're done. I don't mean leave them greasy, just get them good and moisturized and that way the paint won't stick so much.
Paint some primer over your repaired holes. If you don't, the repairs will have a different finish from the rest of your walls.
I've painted every wall in my home at least twice(many with faux finishes over the years). Start in the upper left corner and work to the right. Standard rule in any paint job is left to right, top to bottom.
So many good ones. I just want to echo the 'use a pole extender even on walls' hint - I *just* taught my 16yo son that one this week, and even at his totally fit age, he found it much easier all around.
Also, someone once told me to budget 50% of your 'painting' time for prep and clean-up, at that's a minimum (if you don't have to strip wall paper, for instance). So if you think you're gonna knock out that whole living dining room by yourself in a weekend, maybe think again.
done a lot of painting--i vote primer, decant into an easy to hold container, barefoot, no tape, use an extension handle, best brush possible, wrap your brushes in plastic, and no drop cloth. i also favor the small, "hot dog" rollers. they don't cover as wide an area with each roll, but the lighter weight allows me to get a lot more done before i get tired out.
When you cut in at the top of the wall (if you don't have crown molding), paint a little way (about an eighth of an inch) onto the ceiling rather than stopping the paint on the wall. If you stop it on the wall, you will see a gap. I like to use a long-handled artist's brush (about 5/8 inch wide, bristle) to cut in, as it gives me much more control than even the thinnest house painter's brush does. Then I use the angled house painter's brush to create a wider band of paint.
If you mix more than one color together, don't mix finishes, because they won't blend properly and you'll have streaks of texture. (learned the hard way)
Here's what I've learned from my painting contractor husband:
1. Clean everything first. Wipe everything down so there's no dust, cat hair etc.
2. Caulk. Run a thin bead of caulk along all molding where it meets the wall. Wipe off excess with a damp sponge. You'll need a bucket of water to rinse out the sponge as you make your way around the room. This makes a HUGE difference. Don't skip this.
3. Paint the ceiling. Don't think that it will be fine. It will look dingy next to new paint. Cut around the edges with a 2.5 inch angled brush out of a separate pain pot. Don't use the can.. If you keep the brush loaded with enough paint you won't need tape. Then roll.
4. Paint the walls. Cut one wall at a time wall all the way around, then roll.
5. Use a roller extension handle so you can roll all the way from the floor to ceiling in one stroke.
6. Use a 5 gallon bucket and roller screen for the paint. This is faster and has less potential for mess than the flat trays. You can cover the 5 gallon bucket with a plastic grocery bag between coats and the roller with another. This will keep overnight.
7. Then paint the trim. Like the ceiling, it won't be fine as is. Use a 2.5 inch angled sash brush and good enamel paint. I prefer oil based, but acrylic enamel is ok. Buy the best brush you can afford.
8. Don't bother with tape. Spend the money on your paint.
don't worry too much about the rules and have fun?
Um, I also painted for the first time, 6 weeks ago. I wanted to puke after hours and hours of trying to get a small kitchen painted and swore I would never do it again (but I think I will). But definitely ditching the idea of painting my whole house. The boring bland off white color will have to do, thank you. The trouble was I am really petite, so going and down the ladder and standing on tip toe got old super fast. My tip, invest in a long roller.... Also, buy the thin, trim, finishing brush earlier on. After 2 days of painting, went to Home Depot to get the small paint brush to put finishing touches on unfinished edges in and 6 weeks later, I have still not done it. Hahahaha.
@Nidesy - I'm short too, so the key is to find a tall friend who can get the high portions of the wall. And there's no reason to go up and down the ladder. You get up once to do the cut-in, then start rolling up top. Roll until you reach a height you can reach without being on a ladder, then get down to finish the rest of the wall. Then, repeat.
Like MARYBC said, multiple days!! I am having a "painting party" with a few friends next weekend to paint my bedroom. I have already started taping off baseboards and trim. I can live with it for a week, and I want to get down to the main event when they arrive.
That said, also: employ friends. Strength and speed in numbers! Feed them, booze them (post-painting), trade crafty labor (my friends don't sew, I'm making throw pillows and curtains for them). Put on some music and make it fun.
Is it better to paint the wall first or the trim first? Also, what's the easiest way to protect the carpet when painting the trim along the floor? My whole house needs a fresh coat and I've been putting it off...
@nwatrous - Do you mean trim as in the baseboards or cutting-in along the top and bottom of the wall? If you mean baseboards, I always recommend painting the walls first. If you get paint on the trim, you know you'll be covering it up later and you get a better opportunity to fix the line between the wall and the baseboard. But if you paint the baseboards first, you might still have to bring out the paint for your baseboards it later if your lines are uneven.
If you mean cutting in, I always cut in first and then paint the wall. The rationale is that when you roll, you want to get close to, but avoid touching the ceiling. If you haven't cut in, then you have to fill in with a brush and you'll see brush strokes or unevenness when the paint starts to dry before you can finish filling in.
As for protecting the carpet when painting baseboards, I recommend frogtape plastic drop cloths. What you want to do is line the edge of the plastic tarps with your tape and push down on your carpet as you tape the carpet down. It should help protect your carpet against the paint and get it as out of the way as possible so you can paint all of your baseboards.
A few years ago when paint stores realized folks were using their raw cotton drop cloths they sold for drapes the prices of these items began to escalate. I had a large area to paint. I went to the second hand store and in the area where they had living room drapes I found 10 pairs of latex backed curtains. I removed the pleats and put them through the washing machine to straighten. I now use these as drop cloths. The hemmed edge is perfect to butt up to the baseboard on a floor. They were very inexpensive - perhaps 2 dollars a pair. I prefer these to plain cotton drop cloths now as I place them with the latex side toward the floor and there is no leakage of paint through to the underside. They dry at the same rate as the wall you are painting and they can be recycled for every paint job. I keep them in a cardboard box in the basement.
Nidesy, did you have an extension pole for your roller? Even the shortest people can paint the tallest walls with a pole. The best kind are the lightweight telescoping ones---they cost more but they're worth it. The cheap broomstick type gets the job done, too.
Nwatrous, I can never decide which is better to do first. I think it just depends on what the trim is. I find it very easy to paint the trim on the left side of a window last, but much easier to do it first on the right side. My eye-hand coordination just works best in that arrangement of parts. Baseboards are way easier to do last, but always a pain in the a** because I have to practically lay on the floor to get as close as i like.
I've seen a few people recommend Benjamin Moore, so I'm going to go further and say use their Aura line. It's expensive, but it's SO worth it. I've painted MANY times and I've been poor so I've used the junk paint. It splatters everywhere and makes a big mess. I bought the Aura paint, prepped my room as usual (drop cloth over the whole floor) and when I was done, I was surprised to see there wasn't a DROP on the cloth. Nothing. It's thick, creamy and looks gorgeous. No, I don't work for B. Moore. :)
Nwatrous, there is a long red plastic blade-type thing that you can get to stick between the carpet and the trim to hold the carpet out of the way. I have only used one a few times and it was kind of a pain in the neck. You have to constantly wipe paint off it. Even though the paint is theoretically on the side of the blade that doesn't touch the carpet, it does ooze over to the other side after a little bit and then it gets on the carpet. I would probably just tape a plastic dropcloth right up to the trim if I had to do it again. I've had very little experience painting carpeted rooms, though. There's probably a better way.
My tips: have an artist's brush on hand to help with fixing any difficult spots on or next to trim.
If your baseboard molding is unremarkable, consider painting it the same color as the walls instead of a contrasting color. This was a timesaver and also looked better in our upstairs converted attic with low ceilings.
If you don't like to be barefoot, you can paint in rubber flipflops and slip them off anytime you leave the painting area.
It's also good to wrap your roller in tape to remove extra fuzzies. I use my old blue tape for this job since FrogTape came out.
I normally do not tape but when I have to I love FrogTape. A good angled brush is normally all I need to get a nice straight line when edging.
I don't invest in drop cloths. I just use a few old towels and move them around as needed.
On paint, you get what you pay for. I used to hate Behr but now I love the new all in one paint they developed. Also like Benjamin Moore and Valspar.
I also second Benjamin Moore, but Aura is beyond what I'm willing to spend on paint. I used the ben line (about $36-$40 a gallon depending on your store) and it's really great paint. Really consistent color and it goes on very smoothly.
instead of taping, hold the brush as you would a pencil when doing the edges. it gives a super-clean line. also, if you do tape, pull the tape off at a 45 degree angle to avoid pulling the paint off the wall.
I don't think this has been mentioned above: Get a paint edger. I don't even know how many hours this saved painting four rooms. As long as you keep the wheels clean, it gives a perfect clean line faster than I found I could do with a paint brush.
i'm painting a 1600 sq. ft. space so i am using scaffolding instead of a ladder for much of it. got it delivered from amazon! it saves on trips up and down the ladder though it is a bit more wobbly.
The paint color is only as good as the person mixing it and the equipment used. Be sure they put a sample of the color on the lid before closing it and you walking out the door. Check the color. I once had a color mixed that was so off that when I had to buy more, it was not matching at all. I then had to go back a third time and have them remix the first batch. It the nozzles are not clean, the right amount of color will not dispense properly. Or if the person mixing it cannot read, that's a problem. This happened to me at a store selling Benjamin Moore paints !!!
Never, never, never pour un-used paint in the bathtub or toilet! I used to work in property management and I was mortified at how often people did this. Not only is it a huge, stain-y mess (and toxic!) but the paint will settle and dry in the pipes and can cause a plumbing nightmare.
Some cities have hazardous waste drop off sites where you can take your unused paint, you can also let it dry out completely (it's only considered a hazardous material when it's liquid) and just throw it in the trash. Also, churches and other orgainizations would probably apprecaite a donation if they have any upcoming projects!
Reading about painting I'm reminded of the one episode where Mr Bean paints his room. Directly over the wallpaper, with his teddy bear's head as a brush. Until he gets bored and decides exploding a fire cracker in the paint bucket is the better option. Then he covers everything that shouldn't be painted (including the individual fruit in a bowl) in newspaper.
Object lesson in how not to paint your room.
My professional painter buys paint in 5 gallon buckets. A the end of the day, he just slides off the roller and stores it in the bucket of paint (totally covered) until the next day when he uses his plastic gloved hand to pull it out and put back on the roller!
Some great tips and comments here! I've done some things "wrong" but have generally been happy with my results, now I know for next time.
I don't think this tip has been mentioned:
Use a hammer and nail to pound a few small holes in the rim of the paint can so that after pouring paint, the excess can drain back in to the can with less mess.
This will save me more time to think what should I do in remodeling the paint in our house! I also find streamline painting to be a great help with regard to painting houses. Roller is really a great help to avoid any pain in the neck.