Summertime is a season for rustic retreats, a time to tune out the world and go on a hike, visit farmer's markets, sit in an Adirondack chair by a quiet lake, maybe even start raising chickens in the backyard. The allure of the rustic is not a new phenomenon, going back at least as far as the Romans, whose philosophers and scholars did their best thinking in countryside lodges. Somewhat more recently, European monarchs and aristocrats created pastoral pleasure houses as an escape from the pomp and rigors of court life. Let's take a look at the most famous of these rustic retreats, Marie-Antoinette's fake peasant village on the grounds of her Petit Trianon at Versailles, the Hameau.
Marie-Antoinette had a lot to escape from. She was overwhelmed by the etiquette of Versailles and unable to win over her many critics. Her mother, Habsburg Empress Maria-Theresa, was annoyed by her ineffectual attempts at diplomacy on behalf of Austria. Her husband, King Louis XVI, couldn't consummate their marriage for 7 years, which left Marie-Antoinette's position at court highly vulnerable. (You can read more of the backstory and more information about the Louis XVI style here.) As a wedding gift, Louis gave her the Petit Trianon, a small chateau on the grounds of Versailles, where Marie-Antoinette and her friends would retreat for overnight stays, casual meals, garden walks, and amateur theatricals.
Marie-Antoinette began constructing charming follies in her Trianon garden: a classical temple (image 15), a carousel, a fake mountain. For the last addition to her garden, she asked her architect, Richard Mique, to create a peasant village, or hameau (French for hamlet, and pronounced a-MO), on the outskirts of her property. The results were similar to many other aristocratic gardens at the time. Marie-Antoinette had acquaintances, like the Duc de Condé, who had fake peasant houses on their estates, as well.
There are a few reasons why aristocrats might have been interested in the rustic aesthetic on the cusp of the French Revolution. For one, "rustic" was just another genre, like Gothic or classical, to use as a reference in garden architecture (since garden architecture could be theatrical and fun). Rustic life was also the focus of plays and novels by writers like Jean-Jacques Rousseau, who equated simplicity and virtue. (In fact, Marie-Antoinette may have asked Mique to base the village design on the stage set for one of the plays she and her friends had performed at her Trianon theater.) Dutch and Flemish genre painting, featuring images of peasant life, were incredibly popular in France and England at the time, while contemporary painters like Gainsborough were creating scenes of thatched cottages and hardworking laborers. And, of course, the vernacular aesthetic was the perfect foil to the grandiosity of Versailles, which was oppressive and old-fashioned for the nobility whose business was centered there.
While Marie-Antoinette's hameau was not unique, it was probably the most elaborate, since she was, after all, the Queen. The structures were built in a rustic aesthetic that was not specific to any one region or type. The buildings were mostly half-timbered, and many had thatched roofs and false windows so as to look like they had been built and repaired over centuries. Flowers were planted to grow out of the roofs, suggesting picturesque decay.
The Hameau was composed of several structures: the Queen's House, the Mill, the Boudoir, the Tower, two Dairies, the Guard's House, the Grange, the Kitchen, the Dovecote, and the Farmhouses. About half the structures were for the Queen's use or comfort, like the Tower, the Boudoir and the Kitchen, with its twenty-two burner stove.
The rest of the structures were devoted to the utilitarian aspect of the Hameau. Chickens and pigeons were raised in the Dovecote, the Grange housed feed for the livestock, and a Swiss guardsman named Jean Bersy lived in the Guard's House and was the caretaker of the village. The Farm was a real working farm, run by a family named Brussard, who lived there and oversaw other full- and part-time laborers. The Queen's farm raised rabbits, pigs, cows, and a goat, and grew alfalfa, barley, buckwheat, flax and turnips, among other crops.
There is some archival evidence that Marie-Antoinette was consulted on many of the day-to-day operations of the farm. She was devoted to the farm's produce, and had the fresh milk and other goods delivered from her Hameau even when she was imprisoned at the Tuileries in Paris in the 1790s. Before the monarchy went south, she would invite friends to the Hameau for fresh berries and ice cream, which they would sometimes eat in the Pleasure Dairy. Of course, her involvement was limited to oversight and enjoyment from a distance, as the Farm is at a bit of a remove from the other structures of the Hameau, and it is unlikely that she went often.
The Hameau has long been at the heart of criticism of Marie-Antoinette, much of which was fabricated in the service of an increasingly revolutionary agenda. For instance, she never dressed up as a shepherdess or a milkmaid, though that story has been repeated for generations, even by reputable historians. This legend helped characterize the Hameau as a sort of mean-spirited mockery of peasant life, the royal equivalent of blackface. Another rumor was that the interiors at the Hameau were encrusted in jewels and other over-the-top extravagances. In 1789, a revolutionary committee came to inspect the Queen's domain for evidence of irresponsible overspending, and were surprised by the relative modesty they found.
Let's not get carried away, though. To be sure, Marie-Antoinette had used considerable state funds to create her peasant village, which, despite its functional farm, was essentially an Epcot Center of peasant life. But it was understandable within the context of aristocratic garden estates at the time, an attempt by a Queen to get in touch with a simpler life that must have been more alluring for her than the cold marble vaults of Versailles.
Images: 1 Wikimedia Commons; 2-15 Anna Hoffman.
Sources: I wrote my master's thesis on this topic, so I have too many sources to name with regards to peasants, farmers and queens in the 18th century. But if you're interested in learning more about Marie-Antoinette, I recommend Antonia Fraser’s biography. Sofia Coppola used Fraser's book as the basis for her movie, Marie Antoinette, which includes a wonderfully evocative scene in the Hameau. And Caroline Weber wrote a fabulous biography of Marie-Antoinette through the lens of fashion called Queen of Fashion: What Marie-Antoinette Wore to the Revolution.
MORE MARIE ANTOINETTE
• Marie Antoinette's Petit Trianon House Tour
• Candy Color Combinations from Marie Antoinette
















Ercol Bar Stool
very interesting
I love this history lesson on such a beautiful grounds! Thank you.
"an attempt by a Queen to get in touch with a simpler life that must have been more alluring for her than the cold marble vaults of Versailles."
Pretty sure she'd have felt differently about the allure of peasant life if she'd ever actually been a peasant. I can see where being unpopular in the royal court might be something a person wants to escape from, but really, it doesn't much compare to your kids starving to death.
One of my favorite topics! Sometimes I forget and love to be reminded, thank you.
Beautiful! She had the best of both worlds as far as living quarters - the OTT opulence of Versailles, and this picturesque rustic 'village'.
If I had a ton of extra money, this would be a very fun, relaxing and charming way to spend it--at least for the modern equivalent! It's beautiful, maybe tone deaf for the time, but it would be so relaxing.
The only thing that could make this photo essay better would have been for the photos to be inhabited by historical reenactors wearing costumes appropriate to the picture.
Does anyone know if they ever stage those there? I.e. similar to Colonial Williamsburg?
Nice and interesting article.
Just one little note: the one represented is a green tunnel, or a pergola (I think I recognise a climber) or a bower if made with trees.
A Bowling Green is where people play Bowls and looks like this: http://www.stroud.gov.uk/img/pictures/park/fac_1.jpg
Fantastic post. I was just there last summer and while I enjoyed walking around the hameau so much, I didn't take the time to read much about it or get an audio or guided tour. This explains a lot and makes me grateful to have had the chance to see it in real life. It is very beautiful and was one of my favorite part of Versailles! Great job, AT!
*"...one of my favorite parts.."*
Oh, Retrospect, je vous adore! I was just wondering when we'd see another installment. They are always interesting; I always learn many new things (I'd always believed the milkmaid costume lore, for example); they're always well-illustrated, and they are always just the perfect length. Merci, Retrospect!
I finally visited Versailles on my 3rd trip to Paris. I thought I would do a quick visit and ended up staying the entire day. During the trip I read "The Queen of Fashion," by Caroline Webber. It was a great read and differrent view of the queen and her role in history. I highly recommend the read and renting a bike if visiting Versailles.
"Pretty sure she'd have felt differently about the allure of peasant life if she'd ever actually been a peasant. I can see where being unpopular in the royal court might be something a person wants to escape from..."
If you read history, you'd understand that Marie Antoinette was raised in a relatively informal, quite private household and a large closely-knit family unit. When she was sent to France at the age of 14 to marry Louis XVI, she was completely unprepared for the very formal, ceremonial and abnormally public life of Versailles - and her new husband, who should have been a comfort to her, pretty much ignored her for a number of years. She was actually quite lonely in France as there were few people within the French Court whom she could trust and feel at ease with. She was manipulated, lied to, denied communication with her family, spied upon, accused of being a spy for Austria, gossiped about, blamed for her husband's lack of sexual performance and generally despised by the French Court and the French public during her sad life at Versailles.
So understanding all this, an escape to the idyllic, carefree life as a simple Milkmaid in the country would have been a dream-come-true for her.
Wonderful post... lovely pictures and scholarship to back it up! Would love to see more like this.
I was at Versailles in March and I didn't have time to see Petit Trianon - the bus was leaving!! This post helps make up for missing it in person. And it also makes me want to go back!
I wonder how poor Americans would feel if Sasha and Malia had a housing project or trailer park "play house" on the white house grounds.
If Marie Antoinette's hameau represents the aristocracy's attitude toward the French peasantry, it's no wonder there was a revolution.
I just finished reading Antonia Fraser's biography of Marie Antoinette a week ago, so this was a welcome surprise! Also a very nice way to add some depth to the way I'd imagined the Petit Trianon.
Also, bepsf makes some excellent points. And I can really believe we're arguing about a woman who's been dead (and misunderstood) over 200 years. AT shows us beautiful spaces. This is a beautiful space. Why all the trollish snark, people?
*...CAN'T really believe...