apartment therapy changing the world, one room at a time

If this is a new development - Why not just ask/pay the developer to either install more of the tile on the sidewall, or get the resource from them to do it yourself?

I would ask the developer for the tile brand and color info and match the side wall to the backsplash exactly.

I lived in an apartment where the landlord had used new pressed tin (like the tin on old ceilings) as a backsplash. Not sure what it would look like with the tile, but I though it was really clever and looked lovely.

seems that a stove against the wall would not be code b/c of heat/fire-issues (especially a gas cooktop)... assuming it's copacetic (you might ask the developer what type of drywall they used there -- hoping it's type-x), you should definitely protect it with something that's fire-resistant. tile would be a good choice, but beware of your adhesive (use thinset, not adhesive). you might think to bring the tile out past the face of the microwave (to the outside edge of the burner plate) and continue up to the ceiling...

I recently moved from an apartment that had a similar set-up (stove next to cabinets), and the cabinets had stainless steel over them. I really liked it, and it might work better than tile as the upper edge of your tile may look awkward/sloppy here unless that type of tile also has those curved end pieces.

"seems that a stove against the wall would not be code"

It would have to be up to code, or the developer wouldn't be able to pass inspections or deliver a certificate of occupancy...

...tho I agree that it would be best to continue the tile all the way out past the front edge of the stove, and floor to ceiling - if not the entire wall (assuming it's a separate room from the living area)

where could one get that pressed tin? great idea!

Would said tile or sheet go down to the floor, too? I would think so. I like the idea of having a sheet of stainless steel between any cabinets and the stove. ....At least get one of those strips that fit between the stove and your countertop.

No. not true about code. My contracter did the same thing and my gas stove lit the wall next to my stove on fire one night while I was boiling pasta. get steel or tile on that wall. When I came after them for it, I found out that the kitchen design specified a sheet of steel there and that they had just never done it.

Regarding "new pressed tin" -- I have the non-stainless type as a backsplash behind my sink. It was installed by the previous homeowner and has rusted in spots over the years. I guess you can say that it looks "authentic". I would definitely install the stainless type, even thought it costs about 4x as much as the regular steel. Home Depot (and I'm sure Lowe's) sell both versions. The stainless is about $4-5/sf if I remember correctly.

I am gut renovating my kitchen and putting in 3x6 glass tiles in vertical brick pattern, will be doing the same for the side walls. Doing it all the way to the bottom edge of the top cabinets. And yes should be as out as the stove itself for aesthetics as well.

It should be against code as you don't have a 30" x 48" clear space on center in front of the cooktop as per Fair Housing which is a Federal law. All kitchen appliances must comply with this regulation. The building I live in here in Chicago has the same situation with 24" gas ranges right against the wall. I don't necessarily know how they got away with it especially since it's most of the kitchens in the building are renovations. You could try tempered back painted glass on that wall as one solution. Just adding tile would not look finished as how would you deal with the tile edges and where would you stop the tile? You would probably have to tile the whole thing but then again you don't want your kitchen looking like your bathroom. Ask for the drywall specs to see if they used type "X".

"Regarding "new pressed tin" -- I have the non-stainless type as a backsplash behind my sink. It was installed by the previous homeowner and has rusted in spots over the years. I guess you can say that it looks "authentic". I would definitely install the stainless type, even thought it costs about 4x as much as the regular steel. Home Depot (and I'm sure Lowe's) sell both versions. The stainless is about $4-5/sf if I remember correctly."

the pressed "tin" they sell at the big box stores are made of a plastic material..so i would suggest you not use it.

tile the wall or get some stainless for the wall. we run a metal shop and a lot of customers come and ask for a piece of stainless for the backsplash, all you need is some spray adhesive.

A piece of tempered glass would look good too.

as noted above, just because it's new and has a certif. of occupancy doesn't necessarily mean it's to code, oddly/unfortunately/ironically... since you haven't moved in yet, you might think to get a really good home-inspector to come in and check it over and put these items (the non-code items) on a final walk-through punch-list and get a credit back from the seller or have them fix them.

we purchased a new condo (new = ground-up) in 2001 and sold 4 years later... on the walkthrough with the inspector for the buyer's agent, he commented on several things that were not to code in 2001 that we were living with: lack of GFCI outlets being one of them. fortunately, all of our fixes were DIY and not life/limb threatening (save the GFCI outlets), but the inspector said he's noted worse transgressions on the part of new construction (that shouldn't have passed, but did)...

it's a buyer's market nowadays... you have the power. you're the one with the money. be crazy picky on the walkthrough. paint scuff? note it. crooked cabinet door? note it. funny story... my grandfather bough a corvair new from the factory in the 60s. when he inspected it post-delivery, he found it acceptable and signed off on it, but the dealer told him to come back the next day to pick it up because they wanted to wash/wax it. when he came back, they had drilled 2 holes in the trunk to mount their dealer plaque... my grandfather said "that wasn't there when i signed off on it and i don't want to be a rolling advertisement for your dealership unless you're going to pay me to do it. weld them up and repaint the trunk or give me my money back"... they fixed the trunk. i never knew him to be a such a hard-ass, but my respect for him went up a notch that day.

"my grandfather bough a corvair new from the factory in the 60s. when he inspected it post-delivery, he found it acceptable and signed off on it, but the dealer told him to come back the next day to pick it up because they wanted to wash/wax it. when he came back, they had drilled 2 holes in the trunk to mount their dealer plaque... my grandfather said "that wasn't there when i signed off on it and i don't want to be a rolling advertisement for your dealership unless you're going to pay me to do it. weld them up and repaint the trunk or give me my money back"... they fixed the trunk. i never knew him to be a such a hard-ass, but my respect for him went up a notch that day."

Funny - Similar thing happened to me back in '89 when I bought a new Mercury in Colorado - and I had even told them not to put the plate on the back of the car...
...and I also refused to take delivery until the plate was removed and the car was fixed.

how about a chalkboard wall...with chalkboard paint...easy to clean!!

also saw pressed tin and such styles at home depot specific for a backsplash.

also going to second the suggestion for tempered glass. the backside can be painted before it is mounted on the wall. anyway, glass backsplashes are really popular here, they look simple and clean

Ikea sells a stainless backsplash that can work with an organization rail (part of the Asker system I believe). I put it above and on the sidewall next to my gas stove, and now I use magnetic containers for spices, hooks for my utensils, etc. It's super convenient and looks great. We used liquid nails to attach it to the drywall and it has held up wonderfully.