apartment therapy changing the world, one room at a time

Acoustilog is the best. Check out an old AT thread:

http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/ny/good-questions/good-questions-does-insulation-paint-work-005453

Can't speak to your specific question, never having used either company, but it occurs to me that you might save a ton of money if you approached this as a DIY project. Late last year, I helped a friend construct a sound barrier in a redundant bedroom doorway using Homasote, and it worked like a charm.

Searth the AT website for a recent posting on Homasote; lots of good discussion about this cool stuff (one of the original "green" home-building products). Also, check out the company's website http://www.homasote.com/ for info on their 440 SoundBarrier® material.

Hope that helps,
D

I think you should do it yourself... it's not that hard, even as a novice DIY project.

At the most basic level all you need is Steel Wall Studs (very light and can be cut with tin snips), Fiberglass Insulation, 1/2" Drywall and a bit of hard work.

If you have a friend or relative who can help, all the better.

There was an excellent article on May 17 in the NYT House & garden section called "The Dream of Absolute Quiet"--you should try to download it. Full of info about how sound travels (a lot is through the floor), drywall with special sound-deadening qualities (called QuietRock), etc. They mentioned SH Acoustics and CitiQuiet. Check out the article--very interesting.

Thank you all for your comments -- I am definitely a super novice DIY'er which is why I am now an AT fanatic:) I've done a fair bit of research, and the thought had crossed my mind to try to create a barrier myself -- however, the previous owner of this apartment was both an architect and engineer, and seemed to have constructed a fairly solid wall (drywall instead of original plaster) with insulation, and a homasote backing. so at this point, I'm unsure whether I just need a double layer, or if there are other acoustical issues that I need to work on/around...again thanks for the suggestions (yes NCB, I did see the article in NYT -- very good!) Best, Christine

There is this product called Acoustiblok, which is a thin rubber mat. You can find installation instructions and tons of product info at their website, http://www.acoustiblok.com/

I am an intern architect (which means not yet licensed), and my office recommends this product for these types of scenarios all the time.

Also, fiberglas insulation does almost NOTHING for sound proofing. The best methods for sound proofing involve solid material (such as foam or rubber products) and physical separation. A new, conventional stud wall put up directly against your existing wall will do little to combat sound that vibrates through the wall.

If you want to DIY, buy Green Glue from www.audioalloy.com and slap up another layer of drywall on the offending wall. Be sure to use acoustic caulk around the edges, and be prepared to refit outlets with tighter seals.

We used quiet rock -- it comes in several densities and they have recommendations for different levels of soundproofing (including the aforementioned aluminum studs trick to create an air wall between you and the offending sounds).

Any contractor (or you if so inclined) can install it, but it is actually a system of the sheets of quiet rock and a goo that is used to isolate the quietrock from surrounding walls, ceiling, floor and outlets, etc. by 1/4" so no sound can travel through adjoining surfaces. Otherwise the noise will just reroute and you'll spend money for little effect.

This has worked wonders for us.

Richatnest - did you attach quiet rock to your existing wall or did you build a new wall? And if you attached to existing wall, how many inches of space did you lose? So glad to hear that worked wonders...Thanks all! Christine

Re: Homasote... When I was researching it, I was told it works best as sound barrier when 1) two layers are used, and 2) they're separated by at least a few inches of air space. -D

I would recommend using QuietRock by QuietSolution. I had two commercial tenants (one was a psychologist with clients) who shared a door that, even when closed, wasn't effective in keeping conversations private. I installed QuietRock on one side of the door, and it completely blocked out the sound, so I can only imagine how effective it would have been if I had done the entire wall. QuietRock comes in 4 x 8' sheets, maybe 5/8" thick, and requires two people to move one sheet because, as I discovered, the sheet is literally a thin sheet of metal sandwiched between a type of gypsum material. I am considering putting it in a residential unit with a shared wall between apartments. You'll need a special saw to cut the metal, but I was so relieved to have a solution to my accoustical problems.

Another soundproofing company is http://www.soundproofingamerica.com . Another cost effective product is Green Glue from www.greengluecompany.com. Instead of blocking sound it converts sound to heat. It is especially effective with low frequency sound, which is the type of sound you are probably experiencing from your neighbors stereo. All you need to do is install another layer of drywall with a layer of Green Glue in between. Checkout the follwing articles.

http://soundproofingwithdave.com/2007/03/using-green-glue-to-soundproof-party.html

http://soundproofingwithdave.com/2007/03/green-glue-phenomenon.html

Also download the "Sound of Silence Document" from Pratt School of Engineering at Duke University. It compares QuietRock which uses viscoelastic damping material similar to Green Glue to mass. http://soundproofingwithdave.com/2006/02/sound-of-silence.html

You will also find more info at the AVS forum.

thankyou thank you thankyou for all the input -- much appreciated AT! Christine