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i do the same with the pebbles for drainage, though the container should also have drainage holes. make sure the plants used are meant for full sun, partial sun, etc, and corresponds to the spot they're in. and yeah, when they look dry, give em a drink. they sell things like this, but i don't think they're necessary (nor do i think they really work hehe): http://www.smarthome.com/3119.html

These are the days I wish this was my day job :). This is what I have time to tap out here, just a few ideas based on some flower box trials:

My experience so far is that no device can truly replace careful attention and personal care.

Choosing the right plants for the right sun exposure is one good place to start, then making sure they have a proper watering schedule that is flexible with Mother Nature. If you combine a few days hot sun with a lack of water you can fry less drought tolerant plants (many annuals) easily in the summer. Also as the season progresses an area that was once in the sun might then be shaded by foliage - or someone may hire someone to trim a tree and you suddenly have a sunny spot!


Watering deeply (not often) is also important. Sometimes soil, especially when there is a lot of peat, will contract. Water will then run around the insides and out the bottom and it looks as if your job is done. But in reality very little of the soil absorbed by water. Make sure the soil gets a good soak when you water. (This was a point that John Rattigan at Root Stock & Quade brought up about learning to water houseplants when I visited their shop recently).

There are also flowerbox liners of moss or coconut coir that will retain water and help the plant from drying out as well as control flooding and run-off through excessive rainfall. And with the way the weather has changed so much recently in the Northeast, I could see people having their flower boxes flooded - mulch is another way to keep water from evaporating and also stopping runoff. Mulch also provides a bit of nutrients as it decomposes.

I have not tried the flower boxes that are self/bottom-watering, but the claims are that they promote stronger root growth and they seem easier to keep your plants hydrated. My initial reaction is that the coconut coir might be a better solution and allow for better drainage and aeration.

If I were forgetful about watering or if the sun were very intense, I might look into some type of slow watering system, either a sweat hose, or simple drip irrigation system.

I've found that small pots and hanging baskets dry out quickly, and need to be watered much more often than larger or ground level containers. I have a moss hanging basket full of annuals that sadly got completely parched after a weekend away - it bounced back, but not nearly as nice as before. Since then, I've taken my MIL's suggestion of perching it on top of a bucket of water when I go away for a few days... it might get a bit over-watered that way, but it sure beats drying out totally!

Make sure the plants are full sun and water twice a day in hot weather. In the summer, during hot, humid stretches, even once a day is not enough.

I've discovered some crystals that you add into your potting mix as you pot the plants. It slowly releases the water to the plant and seems to be really helping with my potted plants. I think there are many brands and you can ask at a greenhouse for water absorbing crystals....even Home Depot has them but the plant staff sometimes doesn't know what they are. Look around by the time released fertilizers in the small containers.

I tried everything for my southern exposure on bricks box and what worked was the self watering window boxes from Gardener's Supply. http://www.gardeners.com/39--Windowbox/default/34-502RS.prd I was watering 2 to 3 times a day and still not having good results with my other types of boxes. I have a few pictures from a few years ago. My results continue to be the same.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78794694@N00/sets/72157601585066664/

I have never had a problem relating to flooding or root rot. I generally water once a day or every other day unless it is cloudy or cool. This is an extreme site so others might differ.

An important consideration is the color of your planters. Stay away from black. Also, putting your planters into a decorative "overplanter" will help with overheating, since the overplanter will absorb most of the heat, keeping the rootball cool. Plants I had good luck with in very hot locations are Thousand Belles and Petunias and Snapdragons, but even they need shielding of their rootball from the sun. And if you have a very hot balcony, one can also create great arrangements using succulents.

i've learned a lot in this regard this year, and so far the plants are flourishing the most in the windowbox that i hung inside my terrace railing with the plants at the level of the railing. the sun doesn't beat down on the rootball but it does on the growing plants. My terrace is so small i originally didn't want any boxes on the inside, but next year i'm lining them ALL up on the inside, the plants are much much happier that way.

jen c, your pictures are fantastic, do you have 2 rows of windowboxes there? or are all of those growing out of just one box?

i am so proud of the window boxes i made this year-- it was my first time! i live in hot hot hot Los Angeles, so i planted flowering succulents with some creeping ivy in the same box. i only have to water them once a week or so, which is great. i have yet to experience even a drop of rain since planting the boxes, but i believe the succulents i got will survive a few good consecutive downpours without getting waterlogged...

give 'em a try!

Thanks edgertor! There are two separate boxes shown there - mine and my neighbor's - but each set of flowers grows from one box. I put hers in after she saw how great mine did. There are upright flowers, such as marigolds and geraniums, and trailing flowers, such as wave petunias and verbena. I always try to do something a little more creative and new every year (sweet potato vine that particular year) and I think hers, with the more traditional flowers, looks better every year.

Nice flower boxes, Jen C!

goodnightdean, do you remember which succulents you used?

Not sure if this is true but a friend, who is a landscaper told me not to use metal window boxes/containers as they heat up during they day and will burn your plants over time by heating up the soil. I haven't had a problem since getting rid of mine.

My simple guidelines based on eight years of window box failures and successes:

1. Pick flowers that will not "drown" if you have a week of cool wet weather. I love begonias, but they fail miserably during wet spells. Petunias, morning glories, and pansies are pretty durable, and will flower most of the summer if fertilized periodically. Mandiville are fabulous, and have big glossy leaves, as well as beautiful, sexy blooms.

2. Add polymer granules, that hold water, to your potting soil BEFORE you plant. This really does work, and serves as insurance for missed waterings during hot spells.

3. Plants get tired. Fertilize every two weeks during hot spells and once the plants are flowering. It is unreasonable to expect miraculous blooms to last more than two months or so, under the best of conditions. Plan on adding new, younger plants that are more appropriate to the season in mid August. Except for Mandiville- which should keep blooming right through October if you can protect from Frost.

Good Luck!

Pansies and cyclamen are cool weather plants. Marigolds, zinnias, petunias and portulacas and the like are heat lovers. The cool weather plants need to be replaced come mid-June or July with ones that can take the heat. You may need to do another replacement in August as well (as suggested above). I concur also about frequent fertilizing.

On very hot summer days plants in containers may have to be watered as often twice a day. There is no substitute for feeling the earth with your finger to see if it is moist.

If you have metal containers you could try lining them with bubble wrap for insulation, but they will still dry out quickly if it gets above 85 and they are in the sun.