apartment therapy changing the world, one room at a time

I'm moving into a new place and its got this ugly brown rubber stuff along the bottom of the walls instead of trim. It's like what they use in offices and hospitals sometimes. It's a trim simulator. A trimulator, if you will. It's a rental, so I'm hesitant to pull it out and put trim in.

I've been thinking of a painting the living room/main area of the place with wide (~6") stripes (probably in BM dune grass and BM tree moss) above a chair rail. The chair rail and below we'll be something like BM Abingdon Putty or Linen, I'm thinking i'll do this bit in semigloss, top stripey bit in matte. So I would presumably paint the horrid rubber things the same color as this section.

I told this plan to my mother. She was like, "worst idea I've ever heard. It's going to look ridiculous without a normal baseboard." What do you all think? Thing is, I'm new at this and my mom's a professional decorator. It's hard for me to pull off my typical youthful disregard of her advice in this case. I'm probably going to do it anyway(I don't think she fully understands the beer-champagne divide we are facing here), but if everyone agrees with my mother, I will reassess this plan.

If you've got any good stripe painting tips please share those as well. Every DIY website says to just tape them off like you'd think, but I noticed that at Janovic they conveniently sell 6" wide masking tape. I'm thinking I'll just roll out two base coats, then slap that tape on every six inches, then roll on the contrast. Seems easier than taping off both edges of where you want the stripe.

The baseboard is called cove base or cove moulding. It may be plastic or rubber - you will need special paint in order for it to stick properly.

I have removed these before. They are held on with strong adhesives, which will remove some of the sheetrock paper and/or plaster with it. If these are plaster walls, I would not even consider removing them. If sheetrock, you need to be prepared to do some repairs, and have a sharp razor blade to cut the paper if it starts to peel. You also need adhesive remover to get rid of the residue that will remain on the wall.

Don't paint it. It's not that it won't look okay, but the paint will not adhere unless you take extra steps to prep the vinyl.

what are the extra steps? or can I just get different vinyl-compatible paint? It's hideous right now. Its the color of turd.

Well, a high-adhesion primer, to start, but I'd still be skeptical it would scratch off REALLY easily at the slightest provocation (like when touched by the vacuum cleaner).

Why not install wood baseboards right over it?

The main reason not to do wood baseboards was time money, especially given this is a new rental and I have no idea how long I'll be in there. I didn't consider the option of just going right over that stuff, which would seriously make it a way easier job. You really think that would work? I was picturing scraping it off, having to spackle back together the damaged drywall, sanding and prepping that, etc. But slapping it on top means I could just go to HD and grab some preprimed baseboard and mitrebox it up and be done with it in a day.

Sounds like a plan. But can any half-empty (sorry, "practical") ATers find a reason this may not be as simple as it seems (deforestation not withstanding)?

Wood baseboards will not easily go over these because there is a tapered edge on the bottom where it meets the floor.

Painting them will be a fair amount of work but it is doable. You need to thoroughly clean the surface, and scuff it up with 120 grit sandpaper. If you can stand the fumes, you can mask off the area and paint with a vinyl paint like Krylon Fusion. Otherwise, you need a good acrylic exterior paint, and probably should prime first. I would not be as worried as others about scratching the paint, it is after all on the base of the wall.

If you are feeling more industrious, you could dye the vinyl.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=482&itemType=CONTENT

What about razor blading the bottom edge?

Whoah. Upholstery dye. I like where your head is at. Plus it would be cool to get my own section added to my landlord's rider: "Thou shalt not upholstery dye any vinyl surfaces".

lightenup--

You could easily find a profile of baseboard that would account for that taper of the vinyl.

Upholstery dye sounds like a "oh no they di'nt" moment form Trading Spaces.

hey guys--- i hope someone out there can help me
i have been watching greys anatomy since it started (LOVE) and in the hospital scenes, all the walls have these amazing pictures--sort of native american symbols/drawings of some sort--they are the only art used in the set--sorry i couldnt get a screen shot
i cannot find who makes these, or what they are--tried grey's fan sites and boards--no one even answers me
anyone know anything?

patrick-- sounds like you are probably right. I think my next step here is going to have to be photoing/measuring the "cove" crap and then hitting up a home depot or a lowes to see what kind of baseboards they have. The baseboard I put in my last place was almost flush with the wall where the cove would be, but they certainly could have something. I can't remember now exactly how far it sticks out, how curved it is, and how far up the wall the curve starts. If this doesn't work, its back to the painting idea.

One advantage of a small apartment is even if its a lot of work per square there aren't many squares to deal with.

It's a long story, but I have a choice between a GE fridge and a Fisher & Paykel fridge. They are used but in good condition and about the same size. Both are stainless.

Is one fridge known for being better than the other? I'm tempted to get the F&P one just because it looks better (IMO) but I imagine the GE fridge has merits as well.

Eliza--
If not mistaken, there was a Fisher & Paykel debate on here very recently.

Patrick2-

I saw that, I just wonder how they compare to the GE. I'm leaning towards the F&P but know little about the rather similar (lower freezer) GE. Design vs function, I guess.

I guess since I'm writing already, I'll also ask if any NYC folks have experience donating used appliances. Once I get this fridge I'll need to get rid of my old one. It still works, it's just a cheapy sponsor white GE. Are there charities that would pick it up?

grr. does anyone have the link to that AT post about the keyholder that was like a magnet you attach to the wall? or the one that was a little man and you put a key through his groin?

it's driving me nuts.

Think how HE feels. :)

Here's the groin thing... there *was* another post about this one, too, but haven't found it yet.

http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/ny/slinks/slinks-001547

And this one:
http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/ny/organizing/keyhanger-by-present-time-023963

Couldn't find-- but remember-- the other one (the magnetic strip).

Ultimate DIY Pendant Lighting Project?

Does anyone think something like this can be done?

http://tinyurl.com/yodhgj

Just a update for the archives in case someone comes across this thread in the future:

1) Home Depot doesn't sell baseboard-style trim big enough to cover normal cove molding. For the record, most HD baseboard trim is around $1.50/lf

2) That poly trim stuff (available in more stores) is 3x more expensive than wood.

3) The cove molding is barely attached in my place at least. Before developing an elaborate cover plan, try peeling it off. It comes off easier than tape.

southernwayfarer-- I've been thinking of working on a similar project. My previous DIY light fixture projects have had decidedly mixed success. It doesn't look too crazy to me though. One thing funny about the light projects is looking for bulbs. The bulb websites have a bizarre terminology that is totally non-intuitive.