apartment therapy changing the world, one room at a time

I have their VARDE base cabinet which comes with a separate 6' butcher block top. I adore the entire thing. Living in a loft, it has single handedly given me the best work space I have ever had.

One thing is that you have to treat the top. I'm not sure how mine was supposed to come out. I treated it twice with linseed oil and mineral spirits and it didn't seal the wood completely, just made it like a cutting board, which I suppose is right.

A link to the cabinet I have, tinyurl.com/4htdm .

we originially wanted soapstone countertops but couldn't swing it in the budget, so we used ikea butcherblock, and it turned out great. it adds a nice warm rustic contrast to our otherwise ultra sleek white and steel kitchen. ikea offers two types of butcherblock -- one is thicker than the other. get the thicker block as it looks more polished.

seriously, go faux. either formica or wilsonart (or both) makes a great, matte finish butcher block laminate. you shouldn't cut directly on it (as i would guess is the case with the ikea product, because you need some serious hardwood to do real, all purpose butcher block - otherwise, you've got a health hazard on your hands), but it's the best way to acheive a natural look w/o spending a ton. just got them put in, looks great.

I was thrilled to see this post. I'm a huge fan of IKEA's butcher block counters. We had them in the last apartment we rented and liked them so much, that when recently renovated the kithcen of the place we just bought and used both IKEA butcher block counters and cabinets. Great look, awsome value!
However, I have to disagee with "a". Laminate butcher block just can not achieve the same warmth as real wood.

So Ikea really still has the butcher block counter? It did use to be on their website last year, but not anymore. Has anyone bought it recently to confirm?

I currently have the faux butcher block counters as they came with the place. I hate them with a passion and I'm looking forward to the day when I get to replace them. I have had the Ikea butcher blocks in the past and agree that they are a nice option for the cost, but definitely make sure to keep them oiled.

I'm currently in the process of redesigning my kitchen, and i was thinking about getting the butcher block, but everyone keeps trying to dissuade me by saying how hard the upkeep is, so i was going to go with the laminate ones from ikea. any thoughts?

Last time I checked at IKEA [January], they were still selling the butcherblock.

Vane -- The upkeep isn't so much, you just have to remember to do it. You can get Formica and laminates in the same color, but they just don't have the same texture as real wood. If you want something that's easier to keep up, why not install a small butcherblock area for food prep and have the rest be something that doesn't require as much oiling?

"you shouldn't cut directly on it (as i would guess is the case with the ikea product, because you need some serious hardwood"

a, the ikea product is solid birch wood. With the thicker top, I wouldn't see any reason you could not cut directly on the surface. With the thinner version (what I have) you wouldn't want to wear it down too far, but it is also replacable.

One other thing about my VARDE, the top was completely separate, so there are no easy screws and holes in it for mounting specific to the unit. You screw it into the cabinet at your own discretion, and by the same token when it is worn, it can be replaced at any time. Thus if you want to cut on it, there are no worries about ruining the cabinet.

You can't cut raw meat on it, as it's impossible to disinfect. Salmonella might be your new room-mate. Butcherblock looks great, but if you're a serious cook, don't get it. It'll dent, scorch if you put a hot pan down, stain if you cut beets--it's cute, but not for a real cooking kitchen.

Well there is evidence that wood cutting boards are more sanitary than plastic (www.city-net.com/albertfp/cutboard.htm not very authoritative but mentions the parent study). I would assume that that would go for butcherblocks as well. However, meat should always be kept separate from anything else, so I wouldn't cut meat on a butcher block top that you use for cutting anything else.

Oh and Kate, why are you putting hot pans down on your countertops? Wouldn't only granite survive that? Stainless steel and laminate would warp or burn. I cook every day, and I can't really think of a time when I'm putting hot pans on my prep surfaces, especially not frequent enough that would factor into a countertop purchase. There may be a gap in my memory.

well i wasn't planning on using my butcherblock countertops as cutting boards, thats just madness! but i DO prefer the look of it to laminate. how often are you supposed to oil it?

oh, and you can find the countertops in IKEA"s special kitchen catalog.

Cross-contamination? ewwww... Yet another reason I'm glad I'm a vegetarian. How is it that you see those old foot-thick butcherblocks in antique stores then? Was that just a time before people realised what causes food poisoning?

I once lived in a house with a small piece of butcherblock counter. I was able to just shine it up with some sandpaper and take out some burn stains from the last guy.

You can get Salmonella from bean sprouts, too, you know.

definitely get the block and not laminate. the upkeep is easy. just wipe down the block and apply the mineral oil they sell at ikea and let sit overnight. i find that i need to do it maybe once a month. and as i do it more often, the color of the wood gets richer. for minor scratches and burn marks, just sand with fine sandpaper and apply oil. this is minimal upkeep when you think of the huge savings in cost. for my 11 foot long counter, it cost approx. $200 (we installed ourselves), vs. $1500 for stone or corian.

Please given me a price and sizes for your kitchen blutcher block counter tops. Thank you.
Pam

I am working on a remodel for an older home. The home has Butcher Block type counter tops. Not solid but more of a laminate. These are dried out and dull but the home owner wants to keep them there. What can I do to 'rejuvenate' them? What kind of oil do I use? I am having a very difficult time finding any information on this on the internet. Perhaps someone from this forum can assist? Thanks a million!

Wow, lots of information on treatment and so-forth. However...no-one has mentioned "HARD MAPLE END GRAIN UP." Hard Maple is very closed grain hard wood, and heavy too. The "end grain UP" issue is important for a couple of reasons. On a microscopic level, the grain opens when the knife or cleaver make the cut, then it closes again. This prevents dulling the knife as quickly as the cross grain. Additionally...end grain up prevents organic substances from infiltrating the wood more than cross grain. Cross grain invites substances and seals it into the wood. Thus making bacterial poisoning an issue. I make this stuff on a hobby level and have been doing so since the late 1970's. As I mentioned before, it is time consuming to construct...but once completed, it's way too cool. It stands out from among all the other mass manufactured items.

What a great post! I've been thinking of replacing our kitchen counters with butcher block but have had a hard time finding info/a discussion from people with actual experience!

I've looked at the IKEA tops and they're great. There's also a local store with a great deal on maple butcher block.

My question is this: Is it possible (and if so, how/what products) to stain/darken the countertop? We really like the darker look of mahogany and it would go better with our kitchen design. Just wondering if you stain it like you would furniture, prior to finishing it with oil...

Anyone have any experience with this?
Thanks!

There is a new product called Lyptus, which is dark in color and, like bamboo, very environmentally-friendly, which can be installed. Have no idea how it compares in price buy I saw it on the following website:

http://www.mapleblock.com/main/butcher-block-countertops-11/

just bought the ikea butcherblock countertops- i think we ordered them in birch, they also have beech and oak too... Glad i came upon this post, 'cause i was getting worried that they wouldn't look good or hold up~ now i can't wait to get them... As far as oiling them, Well, isn't that just the Zen of cooking? Taking care of your work area on a regular basis? I don't think I would want something i could just ignore, or hose down and forget it.... ;)

Thank you all for sharing in the discussion. I have learned alot and now am seriously considering IKEA's butcher block countertops? Question: Can they be stained with wood stain to be made darker?

Thanks.

Maria

We are considering the Ikea butcher blocks. They look great, but we are concerned with upkeep. In particular, we are worried about water damage that might happen around the sink. Sure, the stains and scratches can be easily removed with sand paper but with the continuous splashing of water around the sink area (despite using the linseed oil) make the countertop warp and unhygenic?

I've had the Ikea oak butcher block countertops for a year now, they are so beautiful and easy to maintain. I bought a sink w/built in drain pan from ikea, so it gives a great surface to dry dishes and minimize water from getting on the counters. I haven't had any warps at all. I just treat them every two months with linseed oil and takes 15 minutes just before I go to bed. I highly recommend them for a unique and warm rustic look. You'll get lots of compliments!

Looking to get a IKEA countertop, but a third party to me she heard they split. Has this happened to anyone?

I just installed an Ikea countertop - birch. Plan to use it for baking - kneading bread. I still must finish it. I am debating several finishes - walnut oil - recommended in Paula Baker-LaPorte's book - Healthy House (econest.com). The Seattle environmental store sells three finishes - OX hardwax oil, a bio-herbal oil (all organic) and a danish oil that is organic. I am looking for food grade finish - low VOC's. some linseed oils have toxic additives. Another site recommends mineral oil and beeswax. I googled butcher block finishes. My links bar is not operating, so I can't give the site for the beeswax salad bowl finish. The counter looks great!

we just moved into a house that has great butcher block countertops from ikea, but they have some water stains and i'm not sure what to do to smooth them out-- just sanding with sandpaper, or is there more to the process? also, for upkeep, can you use mineral oil? that's what butcher blocks, wooden bowls, etc. often say to use, so i'm assuming that's right for the wooden countertops as well. anyone had any experience with using mineral oil? how do you apply it?

Hi, we are also considering the Ikea butcher block, but I do have one concern? What about the corners where the blocks meet, did you use the Pragel cover strip or the Numerar joining set? I really don't like the look of the metal stip.

Thanks for your help!
Tanner

Wife just bought a 48" 2 bowl commercial stainless sink for utility work from a restaurant supply house.

I bought 2 pronomen butcher block square from IKEA for $29 each and fitted them to cover each bowl as she wishes. They look great.

Is there a special "Junkers oil" for butcher block countertops or is that different. It seems to be a very confusing issue. Have asked in lots of hardware stores and can't get a decent answer. Had mine treated by installer eight years ago and have never maintained them. They still look good but I intend to sand them now but dont know what finish to put. Can anyone help?

We installed Ikea oak countertops last September. I found this discussion because I was searching online for a more durable sealant than the mineral oil we have been using. Even though we've oiled them at least once a week, they are splitting in several places, and whenever anyone sets a food can or an iron pot on the counter, we are left with a black ring. The metal seems to be reacting to something in the wood, maybe the tannins. My husband is tired of my yelling at everyone to use coasters, trivets, paper towels, whatever. I haven't used polyurethane except around the sink and stove, like Ikea says. I hate the way it gets all shiny, even the satin formula, and the wood doesn't get that lovely darker color and silky feel that an old, well-oiled butcher block gets. Even in the short time we've had the counters, the parts that aren't coated with polyurethane have darkened nicely. I've seen beeswax pastes around. I'll try those next, I guess. The organic salad bowl finishes look interesting, but my impression is that they might be kind of shiny. I guess for the little we paid for our cabinets and counters, I shouldn't be so picky. Any thoughts, anyone?

Hey all those folks that have installed their own butcher block counters - can you talk me through it? What hardware do you use? How do you affix to cabinets, or do you?

Any info would be helpful. Thanks!

We are about to install Ikea butcher block countertops, but I'm wondering what we need to use to seal them? Can anyone recommend specific products?

cynmc76,

You may want to look into beeswax sealer for furniture and/or look into professional products for butcher blocks.

I'm glad to see that in addition to not subscribing to newspapers, AT is also recycling their own posts.

our ikea butcherblock is pretty, but doing the dishes has become a process now - covering the wood with towels, cleaning up immediately after cooking or spills or dishes, etc.

in a little over 2 years, i have had to sand and reoil (a process that isn't so horrible, just an afternoon of mild labor) because of splits, unevenness, and black funky spots from under the dishdrainer.

but it IS good looking. it is NOT, however, durable.

If you must have stain-proof, chopping-proof, hot pan-proof, bacteria-proof . . . get Corian. It comes in about 2000 colors (including solids and granite looks), and because it's machined to order you won't have ANY seams -- even between the countertop and the backsplash.

That said: I love the warm look of butcherblock and am pleased to find out Ikea still has it.

In our last house we had the Varde series cabinetry in our kitchen, and I really hated the upkeep on the butcher block counters on them.

When we installed our Ikea butcher block counter tops in our current house about a year ago, I decided to justs seal them. We used a salad bowl finish, which is (or is like) a poly that, once dry, is non-toxic. It has *some* shininess to it I guess, but it's not what I would call "high gloss". If you've ever seen, well, wooden salad bowels, that's about how shiny they are.

So far they still look great, though they're not aging or acquiring any sort of patina, which for some people is the draw.

That's "bowl" not "bowel".

nothing wrong with bringing back posts periodically. After all, we learn as we go, especially with products that wear and require maintenance.

kdkaboom,

where the butcher block meets a constantly moist environment was a concern of mine when researching butcher block material. Of course wood wicks moisture. There must be some sort of precaution to take when sealing sinks, drainboards and pipes in butcher block countertops. Something like kerdi or one of those liquid membranes perhaps. I would think you could slap enough beeswax or food grade mineral oil on that countertop though to get it so that water basically beads up when splashed on there.

art,

next time i get ambitious enough to sand/reoil again, i'm going to try another product. we were using ikea's wood oil when we first installed it and for this first reoil. so...probably not great quality, nope.

katy

They're just not practical near a sink. Some folks don't mind all the extra work that goes into caring for the wood, but really, it will absorb water if it gets wet. And then bacteria will grow in there. Imagine cooking and constantly worrying that some raw chicken juice might drip onto the counter.... it's a hassle. I cook a lot, and I need a non-porous surface that can be easily cleaned every time I cook.

If you have a portion of countertop or island that is not adjacent to the sink or the stove, I think then it would be do-able.

I'd rather invest in some really thick good wooden cutting boards to use as necesary and clean, care for and put away, as necessary.

I bought the birch ones on Friday, they are being installed tomorrow...if you click on my name below you can follow it to my url and I'll put up pics. I'm so excited. Not only did I say about $3000 but the super-fug green formica counters that the previous owner put in will be gone-gone-gone-gone. You see pics of the super-fug green countertops up on my blog now. Warning...they are truly super-fug.

My folks had butcher block counters installed from Ikea and had an extra couple of feet that they used as a cutting board. When they moved, I took the board with me to my new place. It's now used for all manner of pastry making, since we have a tiled countertop at our apartment, and it comes in handy when we need more prep area, as it fits perfectly over our small kitchen sink!

I'm redoing my kitchen from the studs up, and I installed the ikea BB counters temporarily until I relocate the water heater (then I'm going for something dark.) I like them but agree about they aren't great near the sink. If you go to cut them yourself, like I did, you really need some good tools. They take a while to cut out for sinks, etc.

We just put in Ikea butcher block countertops (in the thicker, oak style) and I love them. I don't find it that difficult to wipe up spills/ splashes near the sink after I wash dishes - I mean I'd do that with ANY countertop. Oiling it every few weeks (with plain old mineral oil) is pretty simple too and makes it look great. I couldn't be happier.

We've just moved into a house with these in the kitchen, and they really are quite nice. The rest of the Ikea kitchen isn't horrible either. In fact, I can't say I mind it at all. Great for the price.

This post set off the AT stylebook alarm. Perhaps intended as an in-house comment?

I like butcher block and it's way cheaper than any other decent material. I suppose it's not for some people, though. Ikea is OK, but if you want real maple butcher block, try this place:

http://www.butcherblockspecialist.com

They have good prices and carry just about every type, from the inexpensive (finger-jointed maple) to the super-deluxe (true end-grain butcher block in maple, cherry or walnut). They will cut to size for you and ship it in a well-constructed wood container to help prevent damage. A good deal, and convenient too! I bought a finger-jointed maple counter and it's way nicer than Ikea and not that much more expensive.

We put these in our kitchen. I agree with the comments suggesting they not be used around the sink. First, they are thick, and most sink installation kits do not account for their thickness, so you will need additional hardware (or a Dremel). Further, ours have warped ever so slightly - but I notice it.

One installation tip: we had to join two pieces close to the sink. The store staff recommended the joint be under the sink itself, so that's what we did. Only later, after I had cut the wood, did we watch the CD they gave us about installation. It is actually recommended that the joint between pieces be several inches from the edge of the sink.

Has anyone used pronomen/butcher block countertop in the bathroom? I see this in the Ikea catalog, but I wonder if it is really practical. We have 3 young kids who splash and get toothpaste all over-wouldn't the wood need to be sealed?? We want to get a colorful Mexican talavera sink (to go with a blue Marmoleum floor and simple white vanity) and are thinking that wood would look nice and and not contrast with the floor. Other ideas for a countertop?

chris-if you are using the counter top, I honestly would go with either a traditional bread-kneading bowl, stainless or laminate-wood is too porous even when it is oiled to be good lots of scraping for cleaning-then the whole issue if you have butter, eggs or milk in your dough? I have baked for 35 years, taught by my gran, and wood has butcher block has been my least favorite=if you could even afford it, a small counter top area of marble or granite would be lovely-less "sticky"

Mimi, if your still here (or anyone else following up on a similar research), I suspect that junkers oil is among the choices of sealants to be used on butcher block countertops, only if not intended for use as a cutting block in food preparation; hence, perhaps, all the confusion.

I have an IKEA butcher block counter that I love. My biggest problem is around the sink, as others have mentioned. I should have put in a double sink so I could use one side for drying the dishes, but didn't think of that at the time. So now my drain board tends to drain down next to the sink under the drain board because I don't have it hanging over the edge of the sink. (My stainless steel sink has a very high lip around the edge, so if I prop the end of the drain board over the edge of the sink, it drains backward!) Maybe all I need to do is get a different drain board that has a steeper incline and I can place it over the edge of the sink. Does anyone have any other suggestions? I tried placing a towel under the board, but as expected, having a wet towel there wasn't any better. The wood is starting to warp, and it's only about a month old . . .