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I've used this a bit on a bannister with about 5 layers of various types of paint on it. It's not completely odor-free, but it does smell much much less than other strippers I've tried & I didn't feel the need to keep the windows open the whole time it was on.

It did strip the paint off pretty well, though I found that it worked best when I ignored the 20-30 minute minimum time the bottle told me & let it sit for 8-12 hours (covered with some plastic to keep it wet).

I use another of their products in the print shop I work for - it's a near-identical product used to clean silkscreens. While it is considerably safer than most - please please please be aware that it contains n-butyl acetate, which is not a particularly safe chemical. Even though it's a relatively mild smell, and very distinctive, don't breath it in an enclosed space for a long weekend.

That said, I have a quart of this waiting for my next rehab job - stripping this sweet metal nightstand-cum-storage unit in a couple weeks.

p.s.

It should be noted that it is one of the very few paint strippers out there that comes in a PLASTIC bottle - in spite of not being totally completely 100% safe, at least that should give you some idea of just how different it is from the rest.

I've used "soy clean" stripper from http://www.soyclean.biz/
The gallon size was only $34.99 ... and shipping was only $9. I used it in a closed room... and had no problems with the odor. It smelled like oranges! I'm use to the Methylene Chloride... so anything is better than that evil. So far I've used the gallon on an oil finished teak dining table, coffee table and end tables... and still have much of the gallon left. Highly recommended!

con't...

I just realized I also used it on a desk, and two dining chairs and a decorative wood bowl... and to my surprise, I still have a 1/2 gallon left.

thanks Kryz, I'll probably use that one my next project. Did you do anything other than the stated directions?

I used this in my tiny apartment in NYC on some old french chairs. Great stuff.

AT is repeating itself, all over the place.
http://www.re-nest.com/re-nest/painting-fixing-repair/soy-gel-paint-varnish-and-urethane-remover-033094

Go further back in the archives, and you'll see that AT first discovered SoyGel on CoolTools, which was submitted by none other than Yours Truly. All questions posted here have already been addressed.

Lizzy, I didn't do anything different than the stated directions... except there's no mention of what kind of steel wool to use. I used #00 steel wool to scrub it down. (first a scrapper to remove the gunk, then applied a second coat and scrubbed with #00) It's important to wash it down with water afterwards, cause it leaves a greasy reside. If that isn't removed it's difficult to sand and finish. Good luck!

I used Ready Strip, which is also supposedly eco-friendly.

http://compassandcoffeespoons.typepad.com/compassandcoffeespoons/2007/12/take-it-off-tak.html

http://www.ibacktonature.com/Pages/homeowner.html

I will say--be aware of what you're getting into before you do it. You might have to end up sanding...it was a lot more work than I expected.

Works fine if you're patient, but I also factor time into the equation since paint stripping is such a drag. I just go with methylene chloride and #4 or #3 steel wool, and glop it on. I use the steel wool to strip and sand at the same time.

Really nasty work, but really effective and satisfying. I also keep the windows wide open, in winter, and even run fans. BTW, I have also used Peel Away 6 and 7, which I also find slow but effective. I think Soy Gel and related products work best if you can lay them down on a horizontal surface, ie. a door you've removed.

I also wonder about the claims for eco-friendliness: If you're stripping off lead-based paint/polyurethane/stain/etc., that's going to have to be disposed of anyway. I don't particularly worry about the stripper itself.

Justin (the first one), we don't assume that everyone who reads the AT city sites also reads Re-nest or vice versa. But thanks for upping our page count with your link.

I've never used this product before but if someone is claiming it contains n-butyl acetate then I highly recommend wearing a 3M organic vapor respirator especially if you are using this indoors.
The cost of a proper respirator vs the cost of slowly inhaling chemicals that over time can kill you is an easy choice. Make sure to change your respirator cartridges as directed, and keep the mask in a sealed plastic bag after using. This keeps the cartridges from going bad too quickly.
Another thing to keep in mind is that respirators come in different sizes as well as with different attachments. If you don't feel a good seal around the sides of your nose (the respirator doesn't suck in a bit when you breathe) then you probably don't have a good seal and are not being protected the way you should be. Also, some heavy duty gloves from your local hardware store are a good idea.

i've used this, it's great.

Anyone know if I could use this product on the painted concrete floors in my loft? If not any ideas on what I could use I have to remove about 1500 sq ft of paint.

Ummm, yeh, I'd love to a response to Roger's question: has anyone used this product on the painted concrete floors?