apartment therapy changing the world, one room at a time

hmm...if you're not concerned with value, i'd strip it/sand it, and refinish it. very cute!

If you tried sanding it, you'd quickly sand down right through the veneer.

You could go to a chandlery/boat supply store like West Marine and get some Teak Restorer. Interlux makes good stuff and theirs is pretty non-toxic.

But probably the best choice would be to have somebody take off the old veneer and glue a new one on. Sorry I can't recommend a place to do that, but there are many furniture restoration pros that work out of their garage, and that would be a pretty easy job for them.

I wouldn't recommend re-veneering as you could ruin what value the table my have. And as recommended prior, do not sand. To deal with the water stains I see in the photos you could remove them by rubbing down with Murphys Oil Soap and a very fine steel wool pad. Don't be afraid to be liberal with the oil soap. This will also remove all the gunk and scum which your eye isn't seeing, but is there. After you clean it up with the oil soap go and seal it with tung oil or the commercial brand oil sealer Watco. This will give it a new life and may conceal any water stains that the oil soap couldn't get out. Try a few coats, it's pretty easy work. If needed buff out the seal with a fine steel wook. The oil seal will give a whole new luster and after the oil has cured you give it a nice once over with a high quality paste wax and buff it out with a cloth. Word of caution, tung or Watco can both self combust if you do not dispose of the rags and brush you use properly. Read the label for safely disposing the rags when you are done. Have fun, this looks like a great table.

Oh, one thing I neglected to mention, don't apply the oil until the old sealer is removed, this can be done with steel wool without concern for sanding through the veneer. Although you may have to use a rougher steel wool to get old sealer removed.

Before taking drastic measures, try hydrating wood with Natchez Solution. Bonus: it's all-natural.

Then, apply a coat of Antiquax Brown Wax.

This will give you good indication of the overall condition of the piece, and if sanding or veneering are necessary. As for the small places where the veneer has peeled, they can be seamlessly filled with a dyed putty at home, or a professional can even duplicate the wood grain.

Good luck!

I think I'd take it to a professional refinisher so that replacement veneers can be inserted where the chips are, the scratches and dings can be smoothed and a good durable finish can be applied.

THANK YOU everybody for great advices!
I actually went ahead and contacted Chris from Antiques and Modern and we agree that he will cure my table!
As for all suggested products, I sure will need them for my next project - reviving my latest craigslist find - mid century dining chairs. :)

I've seen some amazing things done with Howards Restore-A-Finish:

http://www.westernwooddoctor.com/restoreafinish.htm

We were at an antique mall in Palm Springs earlier in the year and there was a guy outside putting this stuff on an old teak credenza. When we went in the store it looked pretty rough, by the time we left it looked almost as good as new. It might even minimize the chips.

I'm a HUGE fan of restore-a-finish; I got some to touch up a craigslist find, and was so impressed with the results that I used it on all of my vintage and hand-me-down furniture. Just be sure to get the correct (corresponding) wood tone. It does minimize the appearance of (minor) chips as well.

just fill in the chipped places with wood putty, then go to a wood place and buy wood veneer sheets and glue and while you are in the store read a book on how to do it. it is really easy.
good luck

Holden,
Just curious, what color Restor-A-Finish do you use for your teakwood? I've heard of some people using Golden Oak, while others feel Cherry is better. Your suggestion?

Definitely agree with the recommendations for Howard's Restore-a-Finish. It works like a charm and is the go-to product of choice for many people in the antiques business.