apartment therapy changing the world, one room at a time

When I rented, I would do the kitchen cabinet shelves and drawers in contact paper. There was a slight other-people's-ick factor going on there.

But when I moved into my own place, I didn't. Now I'm wondering if I should. Is there another rationale for doing the contact paper?

it's easier to clean. and it can add color to your cabinets without painting. (that's my rationale)

Lowes has a good selection too. They're one of the few to carry the "aluminum" contact paper. I bought two rolls but have yet to do anything with it.

Along those lines, check out the link below. They go *way* beyond Contact Paper.

They sell sheets of real metal that's very thin and can be abblied "like" contact paper. They have examples of counter tops and all kinds of projects and some videos showing how.

It's about $10 per square foot.

http://alsacorp.com/products/sheetingfx/shfx_video.htm

I'm not extremely proud of the job I did, but I covered a shelf/counter in my kitchen that had been stained and was really ugly. I used cheap contact paper from the hardware store, I think it was $3 for the roll. It's surprisingly easy to clean too.

http://poofyoureafrog.blogspot.com/2007/06/faux-wood.html

Michelle of Montreal, that's exactly my experience. Although I lined the shelves in our previous house, I've never done it in the one we live in now. Maybe it's because I HATE the cupboards and spend as little time as possible thinking about them? Anyway, the suggestions, supra, are awesome.

I use contact paper in almost all of my artwork. In fact, I just finished a 30'x20' installation of a mexican restaurant. You can see it here if you want:

brittanypowell.com

Click on "mucho mas" to see that specific one.

The only place I've used shelf-liner in years was our last apartment, as the umpteen layers of paint on the shelves created a surface that things stuck to.

I've used contact paper for my glass door too. to prevent people from walking right into it. doesnt really work tho. maybe i should cut out a larger design.

http://www.curbly.com/Affinity/posts/1720-Prevent-people-from-walking-into-your-glass-door

i used silver metallic contact paper to cover the bar/counter top between my living room and kitchen. it is a great cheap, way to change up your kitchen.

Just last week for the first time ever I bought contact zebra patterned contact paper, cos it was funky (my opinion) and dirt cheep (2 euro per roll)
Have a spanking new white and steel kitchen but could not afford a new table, so for a long time kept the dingy old brown thing I got along with my new house.
after contacting top and sides, anyone who saw the outcome thought I'd spend loads of dosh on a new designer table. one of the very few times my renovating projects has not turned out to be a total flop! Hurra for contact paper, I'm now addicted!!!!!!

IKEA also sells a super-cheap roll of plastic shelf / drawer liner. I like it cause it has little bumps on the surface, so if you sit a plate or glass down that isn't quite dry air can get under and help finish drying it off.

They have an amazing selection of contact papers at www.DesignYourWall.com. They have wood grains, metallics, felt, window films, stone, marble, solid colors in glossy or matte, and all kinds of decorative patterns.

I ordered a few of these, including the aluminum one, from Aubuchon about a year ago. I've been pretty happy with them. Lot's of choices and uses for them.

I have open shelves, and it looked like they either left the last contact paper on, or they (I can't really believe) put up some neutral stone-y beige contact on the shelves. I picked out some paper with cherries on it. Sometimes I think of changing it just because it's been 3 years, and sometimes I think back on the project it was to line it up. I also still actually like it and wondering if forcing myself to change it is what you're supposed to do. I've never lived somewhere so long, so I don't know if it's skeevy to keep it up longer than 3 years, and whether I could find something I liked so much if I had to re-do it. Then again, once in a while, it's kind of corny and boring to look at, which makes me wonder if I really need to change it. I have a lot of other things in prior position on the to-do list. It's strange that it bothers me only sometimes and I don't know where the voice that tells me it needs to be changed comes from.

I ordered the cherry wood grain paper from Aubuchon. It is quite nice. I wanted to cover up an old cheap dresser, but I'll need about 2-3 more rolls! I have yet to do it. I also would like to cover a light-colored wood desk I have, but I'm always hesitant because I'm afraid I won't do it right, and it will look stupid... I've been waiting for the brass-colored paper to come back into stock. I'd like to add that shopping at Aubuchon.com was a pleasant experience, too.

Question: can you remove contact paper once it's attached, and if so, does it leave a sticky residue behind?

For lining shelves and drawers I always cut posterboard the size needed, cover that with contact paper, and then slide it into the drawer or cabinet. These liners can easily be removed for cleaing. They can also be taken with you to the next apartment if you move frequently.

I have a really nice shaped bookcase that clashes with my current wood furniture. I want to paint it for its current location, but know that in a few years, when I move it to a different location (and upgrade my other furniture), I'll want it back to its beautiful natural wood finish.

So, I was thinking an excellent "temporary" solution would be to use contact paper. Would this destroy the finish? Could I cover it in some fun contact paper and then safely remove it a few years down the road? Would it even look decent?

Thanks!

http://www.designspongeonline.com/2008/09/hemmendorf-floor-design.html

Meep! Hey lookit, there's my table! On Apartment Therapy! Picture me thrilled!

I can't speak about newer versions, but I have tried (unsuccessfully) to remove old contact paper from a desk top and am here to warn you that if left for long enough (and I'm not sure the amount of time before the problem begins -- the desk application was years old) the adhesive kind of soaks into the wood or paint and becomes a real nightmare to remove. (Strippers or Goo-Gone *might* help...) I would proceed with real caution if you are thinking of covering something you may later want to refinish to real wood.

Also, if any edges are curved, or if you need to wrap square corners, it's very hard to get a really tight bond that doesn't bubble and look sloppy. Not saying it can't be done, just be sure you want to risk it!

Me -- I would stick to the heavier weight products and only use on flat surfaces. Of things that I won't want to reverse later! (But I'm kind of conservative that way!)