One of the first things I do when I arrive in a new city is to head straight to the market. I love discovering each region's new-to-me foods and seeing how the locals feed their families. That's why as soon as I touched down in Toronto, I headed straight to the market named by National Geographic as the world's best.

The St. Lawrence Market is the bustling heartbeat of Toronto's downtown. Established in the early 1800's, the building's history is a varied as the vendors that sell their wares inside the vast structure. The market is split into two buildings, St. Lawrence Market South, filled with permanent merchants selling fresh and prepared foods, and St. Lawrence Market North, which houses the Saturday farmer's market and the Sunday antique market.

Over the years, the St. Lawrence Market was not only a place to buy food, but housed the city hall, the police station, and deterred would-be fruit thieves because the basement was home to the city jail. The market also has an unfortunate history of fire and floods, and slowly fell into disrepair in the 1970's, when city officials proposed knocking down the historic structure.

Public outcry against this idea was strong, and Toronto quickly rallied around the remarkable building, securing federal funds for a renovation. From the 1970's up to the present day, the buildings have undergone a massive facelift, making this extraordinary marketplace the world's best place to shop for dinner.

More Info:
• St. Lawrence Market
• National Geographic's Top 10 Food Markets
(Images: Smith Schwartz)


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The above comment (about market vendors sourcing globally) is one of the reasons I usually avoid these kinds of markets. Do people actually believe those bananas were grown down the road in some greenhouse?! I'd just as soon shop at the local supermarket - better prices, less crowded, just one cashier transaction, and air conditioned. I do, however, enjoy a good farmer's market with artisan products, organic local veggies, etc.
Thanks for the home visit! I love Canadian profiles on AT
Canadian mangoes... yum!
yeah the photos of scallops and mangoes..not really a good representation of the best of the market (meat, cheese and then produce on saturdays!)
peameal bacon!
as someone who's lived in Toronto for a number of years I really don't think St Lawrence Market is the "the bustling heartbeat of Toronto's downtown"? More like a tourist trap? I can't think of any Torontonians I know who go there much, perhaps except when they show visitors around. Overpriced produce, too.
The best of St. Lawrence market are items like cheeses and local honey. It's a fantastic place.
I'm a long-term resident of Toronto and live/work near the market. It's vibrant, colourful and full of something from every corner of the world, as well as everything local. Thankfully, some of the things it doesn't have are air conditioning, one cashier transactions and no crowds.
@Astaver - I haven't been to this market, but it reminds me of Pikes Place Market in Seattle. It's an actual farmers market, yes, but it does attract the tourists. It can be both, and it can be a good thing, but I don't see many tourists coming into DC and gushing over going to Eastern Market. Do they?
I think Torontonians who live and work in the area (and there are many) shop there, and some make a special trip down every once in a while for particular items. It definitely attracts lots of tourists, but the bread-and-butter (heh) of the place has got to be regular people. Tourists don't usually buy fresh produce, meat or fish to cook in their hotel rooms or take home in their suitcases.
Yes, that's my favorite travel destination, as well! I think you can learn so much about a culture by checking out their food shopping scene. I love to walk slowly through each aisle of a grocery store... And catching an open market is an extra-special treat!
@melissapauline: fair enough. The produce there is really over-priced compared to other areas of the city, in my experience, so I can't imagine why anyone would, still.... I guess lots of condo buildings around there and somewhat limited alternative grocery options. The Saturday farmers market is nice, though.
@pi - I guess the Pike Place comparison is fairly apt, although I've only been briefly. I think I have in fact been a tourist at Eastern Market, too..
As a long-time Torontonian and current St. Lawrence area resident, I disagree with the comments above that it's a tourist trap, overpriced, and that no locals shop there. Your impressions are so off, I wonder if you've actually visited it?? While it IS crowded, the prices and quality and well-worth it. Amazing cheeses, fresh cut flowers for a song, home baked goods, and those fabulous bagels are well worth the trip. Not everything is locally grown - true - but I'd rather support a family butcher than another mega big-box food retailer. The Market is vibrant, diverse, and a fun morning well spent. Love when Toronto is represented in AT! Thanks!
I have lived in Toronto my whole life, and while the St. Lawrence Market is not my usual stop for groceries, I do make a point of going there when I want something special. The cheeses, meat, and honey alone make the trip worth it. Not to mention the peameal bacon sandwiches! It is crowded, but I love that it is. It would make me sad if I went there and it was empty.
I've grown up in Toronto, and now live in the burbs but I've always found the prices high. Kensington Market is where it's at!
@abanana - I end up at Kensington way more than St Lawrence, largely because it's closer to my home base. But notice how much Kensington is changing. There might actually be fewer food shops than 10 years ago, and more trendy/hipster bars and restaurants. It's gentrifying rapidly, and so the chaotic, messy, raggedy, multicultural Kensington that I grew up with is disappearing. Sad.
@Rustypatina,
thanks for the compliment!!! :-)
This is my neighbourhood, I love the market, both north and south side!
The south side market in the basement is best for a vegetarian like me and has some amazing organic produce vendors (wider variety than any larger grocery store), a fantastic bulk foods store that has just about everything you could want, a vendor dedicated to every type of rice that exists and hand made tofu that is tender and so much better than the overly processed brands. Cruda, the raw foods cafe, is also worth a visit if that's your thing.
If a recipe calls for some sort of obscure or hard to find ingredient, you can probably find it at the market. The kitchen gadgets store on the main level is my go to when I need some sort of specialist item. The peameal bacon sandwich at Carousel Bakery is famous and used to be a favourite while the Eggplant Parmesan sandwich at Mustachio in the basement is my current go to.
The north market has organic meats, in season produce (not much organic, but you can ask the vendor about their pesticide use) and amazing home baked goods. Oh and the baked samosas you can get there are incredible.
The antique market is largely junky, but occasionally there's a great piece usually at good prices. Most of the art in my place has come from there. And you can bring your dog with you on a Sunday only.
Bagels! Mustards! Cheeses!
Love this market.
I am a Toronto resident, too, and bike to the market with my family early Saturday mornings: pastries, fine meats, superb cheeses, (samples), fab local veg in the North Building, fab organics in the basement, crowds of locals, musicans (the string quartet is rediculous) that seem to migrate weekly, outdoor picnic benches on the upper floor that skirt the building...
It's a colourful, vibrant market.
True, it's not for the 'supermarketer' or for someone in a hurry who craves ultimate convenience (many people in the city) , but for those looking for an experience with their weekly shop: the St. Lawrence is great.
St. Lawrence Market is fab. It's the place to find things you can't find anywhere else.
Elk, kangaroo, or ostrich anyone?
For sure it's better if you can avoid the peak hours so you can ogle the goods before buying, but hey. Not everybody can.
Markets are my go-to destinations when I visit a new city. I recently spent the weekend in Barcelona and our lunch at the Boqueria market was definitely one of my favourite moments. (you can read all about it and see the amazing stalls here: http://bunniesandstripes.blogspot.fr/2012/06/los-conejos-en-vacancia-part-3-food.html) It's so easy to get a feel for the town and the local foods, and I the people are usually extremely friendly. I only wish I had brought back more turron and sausage!
I LOVE the St. Lawrence Market!!! They have a great little kitchen store in there that has everything you could ever possibly want for your kitchen. Such a cool market!
St. Lawrence market is great! If you do get a chance do check out Brickworks, Sorauren and Dufferin Grove as well!
Love this market. I blogged about it too. Check out the treasures I found there ( Iwas a vistor, but I was there with Toronto residents who go there for lunch frequently!). http://www.loveumadly.com/2012/03/o-canada-with-glowing-hearts/
I go to this market twice a month, I live about 45 mins east. I LOVE IT. My son and I go to be foodies- we literally walk around and buy a bit of things here and there, mostly cheese, veggies, bread, wine. Then we go for a walk around downtown, take some pictures of buildings we love, and sit in a park and enjoy our goodies. It's am amazingly diverse place, and while NOT cheap overall, there are great deals to be had. And I agree with a previous comment-- the cheese there is to DIE for. Ah. Love it.