
If there's one concern that shows up in our "good questions" posts nearly every month without fail, it's whether or not to paint wooden cabinets. Having decided to take the plunge myself in our current home (pictured above), I have a few tips for getting the job done without a lot of hassle.
First, it's totally worth it! Ok, ok that's not really a tip, but it is true. Cabinets take up a large amount of visual space especially in small kitchens, and if you're even considering painting them then you probably aren't digging the look of stained wood to begin with. For me, deciding was as easy as asking myself — and my husband of course!— whether or not we liked look of the existing cabinets. Not whether or not we liked wood in general or whether we had a moral opposition to painted wood, but whether we actually liked the vibe that the honey stain brought to our particular space. Once we came to the simple conclusion that no, we didn't, it was an easy decision even for my husband who is normally quite opposed to painted wood.
Obviously, painted wood is a matter of personal preference, but I have never fully understood the reverence many people pay to staining but not to painting. Even though wood stains allow the wood grain to show, in many cases they alter the visual weight of wood just as much as paint—case in point: the early 2000s trend of cherry-stained cabinets.
Ok, now onto the real tips. When we decided to ditch our honey stain for fresh white we scoured the internet for painting tips. These were the most helpful:
• Remove the cabinet doors and all hardware. Kind of a hassle, but totally worth it because it makes actual painting much easier and will ensure that you keep the hardware paint-free.
• Fill cracks and nail holes with wood filler before priming and painting. You would think this would be a no-brainer, but I managed not to do this on two separate previous occasions, so I thought that it was worth mentioning. I've used Elmer's carpenter's wood filler, which works just fine. Squeeze a little bit of filler into the crack, wipe off any excess with a paper towel or edge of a putty knife, wait for it to dry, then sand of any excess with fine grit sand paper.
• Use Zinsser's B-I-N shellac based primer. I promise that I'm not getting paid to promote this, but I had to mention it because it is by far the best primer I've ever used, especially on wood with knots. When we started the project we used a regular water-based primer, but within a few days, the knots began to bleed through (not the fresh look we were going for in our clean white kitchen!), so we switched to this one and loved the results. Another great perk is that either oil or latex paint can be used over it, and it can be used over most surfaces (including laminate) without sanding. Most Benjamin Moore stores carry it.
• Use a foam brush to paint the inside corners. I didn't discover this helpful tip until I was halfway into the project. The flexible foam brush was much easier to get into the tight corners and crevices than a regular paint brush, and it didn't drip nearly as much.
• Wait until paint is completely dry before rehanging the cabinet doors. Again, another no-brainer for most of you, but one that my impatient self needed to be reminded of. Attaching the doors prematurely may mean risking them sticking together or causing some of the new paint to peel off.
So those are my cabinet painting tips, what are yours?
To check out more details of our modest kitchen makeover, pictured above, in this post from last year.
(Images: Leah Moss)
Comments (19)
Well timed post! I am painting my knotty bathroom cabinets in the morning! The zinsser primer is on my shopping list! Thank you.
thank you so very very much for writing this post without resorting to the idiotic royal "we" so prevalent on this website.
also, really great job on the cabinets. wood is not always good.
-I always say sanding is never a bad idea even if you are using a good primer, sanding will give the primer that much more to hold on too.
- I also put toothpicks in the holes that I know I am going to use again for hardware and such so that paint doesn't get into them.
- if you are using a glossy paint I recommend using a high density sponge roller to give a good even coverage without having brush marks or roller marks (yuk).
Beautiful results by the way.
Also, don't forget to label each door and make a little diagram that shows where each one goes. It's like a giant puzzle if you don't. I make "labels" out of painter's tape.
Depends on the wood. Average not special pine/whatever cabinet doors with flat surfaces that could be stripped if you changed your mind - go to paint town!
Beautiful carved walnut - heavens to betsy, just take the doors down and replace them with some cheap board that you can paint instead.
These are beautiful results! I have a few pieces of wooden furniture lined up to pain - I will defintiley try out that primer.
Kaete - for Walnut, would you suggest staining if it REALLY needed a pick me up?
Thanks!
Erin at YAYDIY.com
Stunning and classic "After", your hard work has really paid off. And I know it's not technically the kitchen, but that shade of blue visible in the next room is just perfect with your new black and white look, I love it.
My husband was a pro painter for many years and I recall the paint crews talking about "BIN" quite a bit . It works great but they always made sure to have extra good ventilation .I guess the fumes are pretty toxic. With any paint it is a good idea to open up the windows , just be extra cautious with the BIN ! To the Polish Chick.......I am with ya on the "We" thing ! I couldn't figure out if they were doing everything as a group or just had multiple personalities! What is up with that anyway? ........I started painting my kitchen cabinets yesterday by the way so I was thrilled to see this post. Good tips! Thank you !
I've painted two sets of cabinets and I have to say that I always love the results. In addition to a really great oil primer, I also strongly recommend a good oil paint as well. Yes, it is stinky and a pain to clean up, but the results are far superior to latex. Oil paint dries to a crystal hard finish that is a breeze to keep clean (wipe with a damp cloth, scrub if necessary).
The first time I painted, I used oil primer and latex paint. The paint job started showing flakes and chips almost immediately and took constant touch up. In my current kitchen, I used oil primer and paint and I am so much happier with the results.
I also heard about that primer - a little too late for a few of my projects, but just in time for bath/kitchen redo. A guy at Home Depot recommended it saying that anything else is just not as good (and most of the time more expensive).
For paint options - oil is the best, but I'm not going to do that - just too messy for me. I was suggested a latex based porch paint. Supposed to be the most durable latex verity, and also self levels, so any uneven surfaces should be not as visible.
Also - paint the back of the cabinet doors first, let it dry well, then switch to fronts. I've heard you can get dents and marks on freshly painted surfaces for quite a while, and if you start with fronts, you'll have to put them down on the most visible surface.
Is it necessary to paint the insides of the cabinets? I have been thinking about painting my cabinets and was planning on leaving the shelves and interiors alone.
snailsalot: I left the shelves and interiors of my cabinets alone, I just did a very careful job of cutting in so that there are crisp, clean edges between the painted and upainted surfaces. I think it works well.
My cabinets had awful-looking laminate "boxes" and wood doors (honey-stained oak) that were supposed to match. My husband and I debated about tearing them out but decided against it. They may have been ugly but they were completely functional, and it seemed terribly wasteful to tear them out. So we opted to paint. We used a special primer (I'm sorry I don't recall the name)--and sanding was key, especially on the laminate surfaces. We painted the doors (front and back), the boxes, and the interior edges of the openings and left the interior surfaces alone. Turned out great.
BIN is great, but keep in mind that you will need to use mineral spirits to clean your brushes just like you would with oil-based paints. I'm currently painting my ugly 1980's wood cabinets white and I chose not to use the BIN because of the toxic fume issue and the cleanup issue.
Wow, what a difference it made in your new kitchen! Looks so clean and bright now.
I recently moved in with my boyfriend. Can't change our kitchen because it's rental - but even with furniture, painted wood vs. stained wood has been a real point of contention! He thinks it's a crime to paint wood, ever. But I say: if it's chestnut, vintage heart pine with clear grain, mahogany or burled facing, etc, then sure, painting is evil. But if it's just oak with dark, coarse grain, or yellow pine with lots of knots, then paint can be a big improvement if it's done well.
Just want to put in a plug here for folks thinking of painting their cabinets: if you change out your hardware, please donate it to your local reuse store or salvage yard! I work in the DC area at Community Forklift, and we LOVE to receive cabinet hardware, especially the knobs and pulls. It is always in demand here.
To find thrift stores for building materials across the country, check out these directories:
http://redo.org/SearchRedo.aspx
http://www.habitat.org/env/restores.aspx
http://bmra.org/listings/directory-map
You keep useful materials out of the landfill and support a local nonprofit...plus you earn a tax deduction for donating your hardware to a building materials thrift store. (By the way, your reuse store will love you if you bring the hardware set to them neatly packaged in a clear container, like a salad clamshell)
Thanks!
we just did a facelift on our kitchen as well by painting the cabinets. spent less than $50 and made a huge change.
http://ourhartbeat.blogspot.com/search/label/kitchen%20face-lift
the finishing touches aren't there yet, but i am loving the change!
Regarding BIN primer:
Make sure you get the shellac based type. They also make other primers that will NOT seal off the sap from knots in wood.
Lowe's and Home Depot sell the shellac base primer.
It has an alcohol base. Alcohol fumes aren't good to breathe so just open windows. The good part is that it dries really fast (minutes, not hours or days) and once dry, the fumes are gone.
Clean-up is with denatured alcohol or ammonia. I believe these are both preferable to mineral spirits.
You have to work quickly with shellac base primer as it starts to dry within minutes. You can't go back and touch up drips even ten minutes later or you'll make a mess of your finish. It's also thin, which means it drips and sags easily. Work on getting a thin, even coat and ALWAYS brush or roll into the wet edge.
I would suggest that after you finish sanding and wiping off the surfaces change out the drop cloth and re-dust. I didn't and wound up with sawdust trapped in the paint.
I am currently painting my weird veneer covered wood cabinets! I decided they were fair game since they were a pinkish beige. White painted cabinets are timeless! They make sense in older houses like my 1928 cape cod. Here are my tips.
Bin, sand (220 grit), TACK CLOTH every time you sand, repeat. Then paint, sand, tack cloth, paint sand, tack cloth. before you start clean with TSP(I think it' called).
My best friend in the project has been a tiny red 2 or three inch roller brush. Buy TONS of these!!! Let the primer dry totally before you sand too even though it takes minutes it really is not as hard as it would be if you wait and it can smudge. I'm spraying the doors since mine are beveled. I wanted to use oil but my lowes said they stopped carrying it, except for stain. I swear! It will take you lots of time so be patient and don't rush. I'll be posting pics at my blog soon. www.thetinycottage.com Your cabinets will look brand new but your hands may look ten years older!