Q: Our tiny bathroom is in dire need of an eco renovation. What are some things to keep in mind for this upcoming venture? We live in a small bungalow house with only one tiny bathroom that has seen better days. We unfortunately need to gut this room and start anew; from the moldy ceramic tiles, to the bath ("can't-get-the-stains-off") tub, to the leaky toilet. Needless to say, we feel over our heads with decisions. What is the best eco option for bathtubs? Which toilet uses less water? Not to mention we are on a very tight budget. Please help!
Asked by Mingle
Editor: Mingle, here's what our friends at Green Home Guide say.
Answered by David Bergman, David Bergman Architect
Green bathroom renovations, as you are discovering, can be both expensive and complicated, in part because nearly every building trade may be involved:
- carpentry,
- plumbing,
- electric,
- tile and stone,
- painting,
- maybe HVAC,
- and who-knows-what-else.
And that’s assuming it’s just an interior renovation.
Levels of renovation
In your case, I suspect you will end up at one of these levels of renovation and the determining factors will be:
- the condition of the tub
- whether the mold on those tiles has gotten into the wallboard.
- And a third factor may be the condition of the pipes in the walls.
A "gut" remodel
If the wallboard has mold in it, you’ll almost certainly want to replace it (use cement board in wet areas), which means stripping the room down to its framing, a "gut" renovation. Similarly, if there are problems with the existing pipes, that will mean opening up a serious part of the walls and/or floors to replace them. And if there are exterior walls involved, that’s the time to take advantage of exposing the framing to upgrade the insulation.
Replacing rather than refinishing the tub
If you’ve found that you need to go that “gut” renovation route, then it will probably make sense to replace rather than refinish the stained tub. In general, we want to avoid unnecessarily sending materials to landfills, and there are methods of refinishing scratched and discolored tubs, but how well they work and how long they hold up depend on what the tub is made of and how the work is done. The process also tends to involve some nasty chemical finishes. The argument against replacing the tub, aside from the cost of the tub and the waste, is that, unless it’s freestanding, a tub gets installed before the wallboard, so removing and replacing it requires demolishing parts of the surrounding walls.
Economic and ecological decisions are often aligned
If you want to look at the project in terms of getting the most bang for your buck, the good news is that the economic decisions and ecological decisions often coincide. Over the lifetime of the bathroom, your greatest financial savings will come from energy and water efficiency. While the initial construction costs (as large as they may be) are incurred once, your utility bills -- and the environmental impacts of the associated consumption of electricity and water -- will be arriving monthly. So whether you go the full renovation or the fixture and fitting replacement route, it will make sense to focus on that consumption.
Make sure you get a high-efficiency toilet (HET). These are the newer generation, with even lower water requirements than a low-flow toilet. For homes, I often specify dual-flush models. (I’m not as fond of them for public bathrooms because the users may not be familiar with how to properly use them -– you know, which button to push when...) As Molly McCabe mentioned in a recent post, look at the MaP ratings to research the best HET models (see "How do you figure out if a toilet is low-flow?" for more information).
The showerhead and the sink faucet should also be low-flow. Those are both easy to change, by the way, so we should all be doing that whether or not we’re renovating. (Most faucets accept a standard aerator that screws into the spout, cutting down the flow rate.) It doesn’t sound like one of your options will be a large tub, but of course those big luxurious models take a lot of water (heated!) to fill. The other half of your utility bills, of course, is electricity and here, too, the eco paths are pretty simple: use energy-efficient lights and/or occupancy sensors. (Many building codes have specific requirements now; be sure to check yours.) Those sensors are much friendlier than they used to be; some of the early models tended to turn off if you were sitting still for a while, say, in the bathtub.
Using natural daylight and light colored surfaces can cut down on your need for artificial lighting. For lighting, LEDs are still fairly pricey to purchase, but if you can look at the longer-range picture, they will save you money later on when you add up electricity usage and bulb replacement costs.
(Image: Edgaroso via Apartment Therapy)

Sprout Side Table
David's answers are spot-on. As a fellow bungalow owner and architect, I'd advise you to look into reclaimed materials (maybe a bathtub on craigslist), and pick the things that are as durable and long-lasting as possible.
We just did a remodel of a small bathroom. Fortunately, we have copper plumbing and it all looked good, no mold and or any other down deep problems. I am moderately handy but by no means an expert. I had never done any of the things I did. I scoured the Internet (articles and videos tutorial on YouTube) and spoke to friends. BTW, I would make sure to research any info you get from a Home Depot employee. We spent about $1200 for a 5x8 bathroom. We did not replace the tub. I would add another 400-600 for that depending on the tub and assuming you do it yourself.
-toilet. We got a dual flush Toto. Aquius II. .9/1.6 gal per flush. I personally think Totos are some of the best toilets. This toilet looks great too. I love the skirted design. DO NOT get a Kohler. They look great but horror stories.
Check out terrylove.com for tips on installation. Make sure to measure your rough in. A 12" rough is pretty standard. Fancy talk for the distance from the wall to the center of the toilet hole/drain in the floor. Also check the specs needed for the water line location. I think it's 6-8" to the left of the center of toilet drain.
$335 out the door. (including tax and slow close seat/lid.
-tile.
We scraped and floor to the subfloor (plywood floor base). Put down hardybacker board. Then put tile on top. Home Depot has tile workshops. Very doable.
$90
-vanity, sink, faucet
We went a little cheap here. We got a 32" vanity from Ikea for $200, sink for $100 and modern faucet from Home Depot for $88. The vanity is birch veneer with 2 drawers. I think it looks great but we all now ikea is not know for workmanship and materials. I give it 5-7 years of looking good.
$500 for everything. (tax, caulk, some new drain pipe).
-mirror/cabinet
Ikea. Disconitued model.
$67
-lights
Home Depot
$60
-baseboard.
$20
-paint. Benjamin Moore Natura. Zero VOC. Primer and paint. 1 gallon each. $43/gallon. Yes, expensive.
$100
We did not change out our tub. We have an ugly fiberglass one but we just keep the shower curtain drawn. If we had a cast iron tub, I would get it reglazed (~$250). We did it in a previous home and the tub looked brand new! The bad thing are the fumes. I would get it down on a fri before leaving for the weekend, then leaving the window open and using a fan. Replacing a cast iron tub is not easy. They weigh about 300lbs. I'd reglazed and re-tile.
Bottom line is it is very doable. Good luck.
Wow Surfcam, thanks for such a detailed comment! I'm thinking about remodeling our bathrooms and that really helps.
Anyone else have a recommendation for a specific model of toilet?
Wow. I started reading this question and said to myself,"this sounds familiar" - low and behold it was my own question. Ha ha. Thanks for posting this here. Its great to get your readers comments and stories.
-M
PS - we still have yet to tackle this tedious nightmare!!