Other advice, don't snub used machines. Some of the best machines I've ever used are old Vikings from the 1970's! (If you find one snatch it up!). And stay away from modern singers. They're total crap. Kenmore makes good beginners machines that will hold up over time. Happy sewing!

When actually shopping for one (especially if it's your first) - get something super simple, and buy from someplace like Target. That way, if it doesn't work out for you, it's an easy return.

I've found that the most basic, bottom-of-the-line Singer works perfectly well for almost any project I come across.

I get that this is a free site, but shouldn't the one writing the article "consult a reputable source" ... just a thought.

Anyways, my advice is to get a machine w/ metal -not plastic- components. If you know someone who services machines from the 80s then buy vintage because they tend to be really nice. And spend some real money... cheap machines are the worst.

I've been told to avoid Singers at all costs. And this was by someone on Craig's List gently steering me away from a machine she was selling because I mentioned I was a beginner! That always impresses me.

My advice is take a class if you are a beginner.

True, my father bought me a used Dressmaker because access to a sewing machine was required for my required home ec sewing classes 39 years ago, and I still use it. Also, I notice they offer classes at JoAnn Fabrics stores and night classes at the local college. They may be a good way for you to break the ice with your new sewing machine.

I've had a sewing machine for three years and never touched it due to intimidation. I think I will take the plunge. Thanks for the inspiration!

Amazon and Pattern Review were the 2 places I relied on for review info before selecting a machine. Definitely evaluate what you really plan on using the machine for. If you only plan on hemming or making basic repairs to clothes, you probably don't need to spend the extra money on a fancy embroidery machine.
Also, don't underestimate the value of an older machine but definitely look into the cost of a good cleaning and repair. Sometimes you can save more money getting a new machine than it would cost to have an old one cleaned and parts replaced.

I would recommend taking a few classes or borrowing a friend's machine before buying. In Chicago, the Singer Factory Outlet offers 6 2-hour classes for only $60! And it's a great way to give it a shot before investing in your own machine, since they have ones there you can use. Plus, they give you all sorts of tips and tricks! And, when you're done with the class, they've got machines--new and used--that you can buy. I personally have a brother machine, and I love it!

I've had a Singer for about 6 years and love it! Taking classes helps immensely (I took a 6 week course at an adult education center), but you have to keep practicing so you don't get rusty even on scraps of fabric.

I completely disagree with bangs. Don't buy your machine from Target, buy your machine from somewhere that you can try it, such as a sewing machine specific shop or a local fabric shop. Not only do they have return policies, too, but they will give you knowledgeable assistance, will usually give you a free lesson on the machine, and they will be able to service your machine.
A new, bottom of the line Singer is not the same quality as other brands you could buy for the same amount of money. Old Singers are high quality, though. I'm not much of a fan of Brother either -- mine just doesn't sew as smoothly as other brands, and I couldn't wait to get a new one. My Jenome is fabulous, and I've heard great things about Bernina and Pfaff. Don't get something you'll want to replace immediately.

I do agree that you don't need many features, especially when you're starting out. With a straight stitch and a zigzag stitch, you can tackle anything. On the other hand, a few more features don't drive the machine price up much, and they could mean that you won't want to buy another one a soon as you get comfortable with it. Try different machines in the store. You'll feel the differences in quality, and ask the sales person which features they use most to help you decide which machine to get.

Go to a repair shop and ask questions. Then buy a simple, used machine. If it's European made, that's a huge plus because it's probably all metal. Either get it at or take it to a repair shop and have it cleaned and adjusted. They'll show you how to oil it (crucial!!).

I'd suggest sitting down to master one thing at a time. Like thread and unthread it over and over. Then leave it for the day. Do the same with the bobbin. Then try a buttonhole. Do a bunch on multiple scrap material. Then do some zippers.

It's so empowering!!

BTW: Your sewing area will NEVER look like this.

Never buy a Singer or a Brother (Brothers make reasonable embroidery machines though, I've been told). In fact, there are only two brands which still make good machines: Pfaff and Husqvarna Viking. Bernina was always good too, but since they moved production to Asia, it's fallen in quality. Janome is good too, I hear, but I have no experience with that brand.

Also, buy a second-hand good one, not a cheap new one. If it's mostly made of plastic, it's not going to be good.

And buy it where you can get good service. It will save you lots of money and frustration.

I ditto beginners taking a class. I found a local store that sells & repairs sewing machines and equipments and stuff and they offered a variety of classes including for beginners. You could bring your own machine or use theirs. The teacher showed each of us how to use our machines and we did projects each week that taught different skills. It was so worth the money.

They also said to not buy new Singers and they won't even repair Singers.

Although I have had fabulous luck with old sewing machines, I agree a newbie should buy their machine from a store specializing in sewing machines or even a repair place where someone will take the time to help them get started. Don't buy too small a sewing machine as they are not as stable as the regular sized one and this can frustrate a sewer. My first machine was a smaller one, an Elnita, and it drove me nuts.

yikes there is a lot of misinformation just in these few comments. Buyer Beware!

I highly recommend the following (long) blog post about one person's quest to figure out who makes which sewing machine. Short answer: every brand (even Viking) farms out out the making of at least one of their machines, and most of them are made by the same small group of companies.
http://www.evidently.org/2007/02/too-much-information/

In support of previous comments:

Go to a place where you can try them, including some of the nicer machines. Do NOT be intimidated by the seller. They will likely not have prices posted - don't let this bother you. Ask them prices, write them down or memorize them, and plan to go home later and look them up. The salespeople are not on your side, so you want to be prepared with a good idea of how much you want to/can spend.

Don't underestimate the level of machine you will want. A straight stitch/zigzag machine is nice, but if you need to upgrade to something with a few more decorative stitches in a year, then you've wasted your money.

Places like J*anns will likely not provide support or service for any machines they sell. Even if they tell you that they will. If you buy online, you might save enough to make it worth it, but the local sewing stores will charge you as much as they want when/if you need repairs. That being said, most good machines like Janome's won't need repairs unless you really get a lemon.

Baby lock is a slightly less well known brand, also related to Brother but usually with slightly higher end parts (i.e., more metal).

When you do get your machine, the single thing that will make or break your projects is tension. If you have bad tension, the stitches look awful and pull out, with looped string all over the place. 99% of the time, this is because you loaded the thread incorrectly or are using a dull needle. Take all the thread out and rethread.

Personally: I have a low-end, mechanical Pfaff that I use for straight stitch/zigzag and that I love, and a low-end baby lock embroidery machine that I use for the decorative stitches and embroidery. Never though I'd need two until I had a baby girl who *needs* outfits with little swirls all around the hem.

The vintage Singers from before about 1960 are fine. If you can find an old pre WWII Featherweight, they are FANTASTIC machines for quilt piecing. But they don't have a zigzag stitch and don't handle double knit fabrics well.

I second buying a good (metal parts) reconditioned machine from a local sewing machine dealer/repair shop. Start with projects that just use a straight stitch (like potholders or placemats, hemming some kitchen towels, making shopping bags).

There are some good online resources and even classes (on Craftsy.com and other places).

I’m going to go the opposite direction from everyone else. If you’ve never done so much as a hem, you don’t need a European machine. Or a machine from a specialty store. Or a machine that costs more than $100. Unless you know for a fact that you’re going to enjoy sewing (and how could you, if you’ve never done it before?) you need a cheap machine. A beginning sewer will be doing a lot of straight lines. Throw pillows, curtains, basic repairs. ANY machine can handle that. Singers may not be all that these days, but they can handle basic jobs. Shoot, I've made a steel boned corset on a $90 Target Singer when my primary machine was at the shop and I had a commission due.

You will outgrow it if you find you really like sewing. But… outgrowing it and getting something new is better than discovering you don’t actually enjoy sewing as much as you thought and being out a good chunk of change.

I’ve seen too many friends look at the things I make or thigns on blogs, say “oh, I need to learn to sew,” drop three or four times that on a midrange Euro machine from some specialty shop, and use it twice. They have the best intentions, but discover they actually don't find sewing at all fun. Now they’re out several hundred dollars and have a midsized appliance filling the bottom of a closet.

$100… well, it’s not cheap, but you won’t kick yourself over it if it ends up a glorified paperweight.

I'm a beginner and my Singer works just fine.

I agree that having some way of trying out sewing in advance is ideal. However, I think that in recent years the cheaper machines (<$70) have actually gotten worse. My Pfaff was $129 and has lasted over a decade with very heavy use. But I have had 3 friends who started sewing in the past year and I've tried to help them with their Walmart- or Joann-bought machines only to find that they just don't work well. On some, the tension on a straight stitch in plain ol' quilting cotton fabric varies noticeable over the course of a 24" seam. Or the electronics in the machine fail within a year.

This sort of thing will quickly convince *anyone* that sewing is not fun. There are undoubtedly some great <$100 machines out there, but it still pays to be careful and cover your back by getting something that has a real warranty (including shipping) or from a store that backs up your purchase and will allow returns.

Don't get your machine from a big chain store like Target. The Singers they stock there are made special for them, and it's impossible to find replacement parts. My repairman said that in the eyes of Singe they're disposable, but fortunately they were able to pilfer parts from old machines they had lying around their shop.

Ditto re the suggestion to take a class before you buy a machine if you don't already know what kind of machine you want or don't already know whether you will like to sew.

Sewing itself very very easy. Having the PATIENCE and DISCIPLINE to take the time to go through all the steps and techniques to make increasingly complex items is hard.

Here's what every post above missed:

A sewing machine is only one part of the whole tool set you'll need to be happy with your project results. I'd argue that because you can stitch with a basic needle and thread, the more important tools are a good reference book, a good steam iron and pressing hams (for pressing shaped seams), a very sharp pair of scissors and a cutting wheel, a large flat work surface (waist high), a seam ripper, and sharp straight pins. Oh a good lighting. Without these basic things, your sewing experience will be frustrating.

Focusing on the machine only is like focusing only on a pair of skis when you also need boots, poles, and appropriate clothing.

Used 80s singer from eBay here and it's working just fine for all of my home decor sewing needs.

@Thea77 - Bernina machines are still made in Swizerland. As far as I'm aware, the exceptions are two of the sergers which are made in Asia (Thailand I think).

I would say that if you haven't sewn before, take some classes first, then determine how often you're going to do any sewing, where you're going to do it, and what you're going to sew most often. With that info, you'd be better prepared for buying a machine. Personally, I would steer clear of the cheap machines - the parts are flimsy and if you're a beginner sewer, you're probably more likely to break it. But, if you're only going to sew like once or twice a year, then you probably don't want to invest in something that is higher quality either. I bought my first machine from a dealer near where I live - it came with a free class, and the first service was also free (you should service your machine every other year, or more frequently, depending on how much use it gets).
If you're going to buy one second hand, make sure you can see the machine in person first. That way, you can see if it works properly, and avoid any issues w/ it getting damaged in transit.

I agree that the machine is only part of the sewing equation, though an important one. I have a 25 year old Bernina...all metql, heqvy as all get out. It might be what I'd have to grab if there was a fire! Sews perfectly. If there's any way, get the Rowenta iron with the steam tank...steaming seams makes for professional looking items. Most projects should have far more ironing than sewing time!

A vintage machine is going to be much better than a new machine, unless you are planning to spend thousands. Singers from pre-1980 are the best, and you can get them for less than 100 bucks in great working condition. I started sewing on my mom's 1958 Singer, and purchased an early '70s Singer that I have used ever since. Recently, I picked up an early '60s Singer so that I can have a couple of machines going and not have to change thread colors so much. The old Singers are built like tanks. Plus, outside of perhaps a serger or overlock stitch, straight and zig-zag are all you need. Overlocks make for making quick garments that look like off-the-rack. However, if you want to delve deeper into sewing and techniques, straight and zig-zag stitches are all you'll need.
To get started, outside of the machine, make sure you are using the right needles for the fabric and change your needle often, particularly when working with silks and linen. Also, match the type of thread to the type of fabric. A good pair of fabric-only shears are the other important thing. As you progress, you can add to your sewing items.
At work, we have a Husqvarna. It cost roughly $500. It would be better used as a paperweight. I've found that it really just proves the point that either go vintage and spend few dollars, or go new and spend insane dollars.
All that being said, this article could have used some more substance, like some of the things mentioned in the comments.

Trying out machines at a machine shop like the ones available at Joann Fabrics is a good idea. They often include a class to help you learn your machines fuctions if you buy from them.

I'll add this: start with something basic and inexpensive (used or new low-end and buy what's EASILY REPAIRABLE near you so checkout repair sites first to get a feel for what they service), next spend time getting used to sewing with a machine, then and only then upgrade to a more luxe machine IF your current machine doesn't meet your needs. I have 3 machines, one from my great grandmother (got rid of another from my grandmother), one from my mother, and a top of the line European sewing/embroidery machine. I probably use my mother's 1950's Singer more often than the top of the line machine but, when I need that top of the line machine's features, they pay off big for me (like sewing through up to 6 thicknesses of denim or upholstery fabric when doing slipcovers - and - making monogram embroidery quickly). Start simple, if you want to save money in the long run, and only upgrade when you have a TRUE need for added features.

If you can find a place to try out multiple machines, great, otherwise you can ask for as many demo's as you like at most shops. And there are a zillion online tutorials about how to use most machines and then can be a boon to those new to machine sewing.

i did sewing and repair work as a kid and ended up buying something similar to what my mom had in the house for her basic mending work - an entry level kenmore. it was familiar, relatively inexpensive and more than enough machine to handle the few projects that i had already eyeballed in my "sewing projects" bookmarks.

i will say that having a small stash of projects in your queue that you are uber excited about should come BEFORE buying a machine. that way you have something to get started with right away and you have a sense of what you may need out of a machine.

OH! and don't forget to tap your friends. i borrowed a machine for a couple of days from a friend to do a quick project and figure out if i was really going to enjoy sewing as much as i thought i remembered. great way to whet the appetite too. :)

I second tapping your friends before and after. I've helped several people get started (from one-on-one to a couple of morning sessions with 6 of us). Find someone who can walk with you through a whole project a time or two - from fabric & pattern selection, cutting, to sewing and finishing.

I recommend haunting estate sales/thrift stores/etc. for older machines. The only critical features for most sewing are straight stitch, zig zag, and reverse. A slow/fast control is nice. My aunt has a small fleet of old Bernina's she uses with 4H kids, I have my mom's old Singer Golden Touch & Sew (the last one with all metal gears - bought used in 1972 - the weak link seems to be the foot pedal control, but the knee control still works), a friend found an early 80's Singer (one of the last ones with the exposed tension) "broken" and free to a good home at a thrift store. "Broken" meant that the tension was unscrewed all the way. Took 2 minutes to fix. A couple years later, one of the gears broke, she took it apart figuring she had nothing to lose, found a gear for $20 online, and put it back together.

I've been sewing for 50 years. I used my mom's 1947 Singer Featherweight until I was about 30, then I got a Bernina Record for a few years, then moved up to a Bernina 1230 which I will probably use the rest of my life. I taught my kids to sew on it. At first I thought it was too precious for them to use so I bought them an old all-metal machine (Singer, I think) from my dealer. The kids were really frustrated with it and finally I figured out why---the thing wouldn't sew straight! The feed dogs fed the fabric through at an uneven rate so that you constantly had to fight to keep the fabric feeding in straight. I got rid of it and let the kids use my Bernina, which was more than sturdy enough to endure whatever they did to it.

Anyway. Not all old metal machines are great, either. I think maybe the best thing you can do is find someone who sews and go with her to try some used machines from a dealer. As a newbie, I don't think you can know enough to make an informed choice. There are too many nuances to consider.

Ditto to whoever said that all the other stuff matters a lot: a big enough work area, good lighting, a good iron and ironing surface, sharp pins (I like 1.5" to 2" ball head pins), and SHARP SCISSORS! Dull scissors are the worst. And once you get good scissors, never use them for paper or cardboard!

Oh, and used Berninas do show up on Craigslist and yard sales if you are patient. I got an old pre-electronic one recently on CL for $60 and my mom got one at a yard sale for $50. Keep your eyes peeled.

get a machine from your local thrift store, then take it to a repair man. the whole ordeal will set you back only about $100 and you will have a sturdy, hardworking old machine. it seems that new machines are made of plastic and so filled with stitches that most people will never use, are just put on the machine to make it look fancy. your machine should go forward and back, and have a nice zigzag, thats about it.

If you're interested in sewing but haven't tried it before, I would recommend asking someone to borrow a simple machine first (don't go out and buy a cheap one - if you don't like it, you've wasted your money, even if it was cheap).

I borrowed a very old Kenmore from my mother in-law and did some easy projects on it to start out with. I discovered I liked sewing, so I bought a new Kenmore for myself. It was about $250 and I really, really like it. It isn't very fancy, but it does exactly what I need it to do. It is easy to clean and operate and it has a little bit of weight to it, but I can still carry it around easily. I've had it for about 3 years and I've made lots of bags, pillow cases, a simple quilt, etc. on it with no problem.

I recently rescued my mom's 1970s Kenmore machine. With a bit of oil and a little cleaning up it's been great. I've never sewn before and was amazed at how well the machine had held up (It had been sitting in my dad's garage for 20 years). If you're serious about sewing, get a vintage machine, especially one from a manufacturer that still supplies replacement parts for older machines. The metal parts make a big difference in terms of durability.

When you're picking out a machine, remember, the older the machine the better. Newer sewing machines are made of too many cheap plastic components and won't hold over the years. If you can't tell how old a machine is, try lifting it. Older machines are made of more metal parts so they'll definitely be heavier!!

Once you're done sewing and/or you want to change thread color, NEVER pull the thread "back" to roll it back on the spool!!! you're just screwing up the tension and the sensitive springs and wires! You think I'm kidding but these machines aren't designed for the thread to go "backwards." So when you think you're saving yourself a few inches of thread, you're also slowly but surely throwing the tension off on your machine. My advice, just cut the thread from the cone... put a new cone in, tie the new cone's thread to the left over thread that's still on the machine and pull it through all the loops... Threading, of course, the needle separately.

Hope this helps someone out there interested in sewing! It's lots of fun! good luck!