We've become painting machines at my house lately -- with some so-so results and some great results (we're getting better one room at a time). I've been known to rush through a paint job, but have come to learn many measured ways of improving the outcome. This top five list from Popular Mechanics is a great start for either interior or exterior guidance; if you've got other tried and true tips, go ahead and add them to the list:
1. Tint the Primer
To further enhance the coverage of the topcoat, try this pro tip: Tint the primer toward the finished color by mixing a small amount of topcoat paint into the primer. (Be sure the primer and topcoat are both latex-based or both oil-based; never mix coatings with dissimilar solutions.) This will greatly enhance the ability of the topcoat to hide the prepped surface completely, especially when painting a lighter topcoat over an existing darker color.
2. Invest in Canvas
Canvas drop cloths are durable, and rip- and puncture-resistant. They lay flat as you walk across them, presenting less of a tripping hazard; seldom, if ever, must you tape canvas to the floor. Canvas also absorbs paint drips, unlike plastic drop cloths that become slippery when spattered with wet paint. You're much less likely to pick up paint on your shoe soles from canvas. Canvas drop cloths can easily be folded around corners and doorways—something that's virtually impossible to do with plastic sheeting. Plus, canvas can be reused countless times.
3. Roll With a Pole
Extension poles come in various sizes, but one that extends from about 18 in. to 30 or 36 in. offers plenty of reach for painting rooms with ceilings that are 9 ft or lower. There are also extra-long extension poles that telescope up to about 18 ft for painting cathedral ceilings and loft spaces.
4. Paint Off a Grid
I stopped using paint trays years ago, and have never regretted it. Now I roll paint directly from a 5-gal bucket using a paint grid, which is a rectangular, rigid metal screen that hooks onto the rim of the bucket. Start by filling the bucket about halfway with paint, then hang the grid in the bucket. Now dip half of the roller sleeve into the paint, and roll it against the grid to remove excess paint, which drips back into the bucket. At the end of the day, just drop the grid into the bucket and snap on the lid.
5. Record the Color
Before replacing the light-switch covers and electrical-outlet covers in a newly painted room, I write the vital information (brand name, paint color, paint number) onto a piece of masking tape and stick it to the back of a switch plate. And there it'll stay until it's time to repaint.
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All the tips are wonderful but "5. Record the Color" is just brilliant!
we actually kept a "house binder" with color info ( chips) along with appliance manuals, etc... we really cared for our old space and come selling time, having the binder to show interested buyers helped to show that... conversely, an identical unit (for sale at the same time (for less $)) in much worse shape (even after only 4 years of existence) remains unsold to this day (1.5 years later)...
as for painting, we've become real fans of the painting pads -- especially for wood trim. we've a lot of exposed beams in our current home that need repainting. a gentle sanding and a wipe-down with a damp microfiber towel makes a nice surface and i've discovered (with the pads) if you start painting while the surface is still slightly damp, the paint "wipes" on more smoothly... an entire 10 foot beam takes less than 10 minutes to paint this way (minus the prep, of course)... the pads leave no brushmarks and the paint goes on quite smoothly.
I now only use RollerLite rollers, and haven't had one paint mess or accidental ceiling splotch since. It's so much easier to use than a big traditional roller. I buy the roller covers in 6-packs!
I have never painted where I needed more than one gallon of paint, so those five gallon buckets with grids might be nice, functionally, but they would be overkill for my reality. Same with the investment (and then storage) in canvas drop cloths. They may be better, but they create more financial and logistical issues than they are worth to me.
What great tips! I am much more excited to paint now...
Do you have any links or images of the paint grid?
Tinting the primer is a great one, but if using a dark or vibrant color, gray primer does the trick as well. And it is alwas worth investing in good primer and good paint.
My tip, kind of the inverse of #5, is to always write which room(s) I used that paint for directly on the bucket. Come touch up time, it's much easier to dig through the partially used paint cans if they're labeled.
SherryBin--you don't need to buy an entire five gallons of paint, just a five gallon bucket. pour your paint into the five gallon bucket while you're using it, stick the grid in, and have at it. five gallon buckets tend to be much more user-friendly as far as opening and closing easily, not getting the rim all gunky with dried paint, etc. close the bucket up every night until you're finished, then pour the leftover paint back into the one gallon bucket for storage, and rinse out the five gal and grid for the next project.
Or you could find a mini-grid and a mini-roller, as they did in another post
http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/ny/painting-fixing-repair/best-products-pro-paint-grid-from-shur-line-a-cheap-tool-to-make-painting-easier-069219
I haven't tried canvas drop clothes, but I can tell you that red rosin paper is far preferable to plastic drop cloths. Red rosin paper is made of recycled fibers (& rather than red it looks dark mauve to my eyes). It comes on big rolls that can be found pretty cheaply at home improvement stores usually close to the paint or flooring departments.
You can use the Grey primer for any paint color. Paint companies have different levels of Grey for different shades of paint. This way you can use the same can of primer for future painting, provided it is a similar shade.
If you do decide that you want the primer to be the same color as the paint you should definitly have the paint store tint the primer at 75% of the formula for the paint. That way if you decide to take a break while doing your topcoat you will be able to see the difference between where you stopped painting the topcoat and where you only have primer.
As for tip #5, if you set up a cash account with a paint store (I know Sherwin Williams has these) they will record your paints and keep them for about 6 years. So that you can tell them to make of the paints named "Living Room Walls" and when you need to touch up in a few years they will know exactly what paint color and type you got before.
And finally, bucket grids come in 2 gallon and 5 gallon sizes.
@shminta:
Bucket Grid -
http://www.sherlink.com/sher-link/catalog/BuildTree2Action.do;JSESSIONID_WLCS_COMMERCE=JkcBssTpRn1rJyKJds3SGqjYQtG4k1rdk8TdKqh1ry1sxl8QwYdM!-1822520731!1770276842?wlcs_catalog_item_sku=1440072&onlyDetails=true
A 5-gallon bucket does seem like overkill - especially for smaller DIY projects for those of us who are not professional painters. I heard Lou Manfredini on WGN talking about the paint glider ( http://www.paintglider.com ) and he seemed to think it was a good alternative to a regular paint tray. It seems to have some of the advantages of using the bucket, but is smaller and seems more manageable. But I don't know if it's just a gimmick or if it's actually useful. Has anyone used it before? Does it work?
Hey, I use this paint glider every day in my work. I do concrete resurfacing and use about 30 gallons of stain sealers or more a week. This thing does not spill and holds a gallon. I slide it around on the concrete and it doesn't spill. I do vertical work and horizontal work and it actually works great. I don't clean the Paint Glider when I am done. I have four of them and when the sealers or paint dries, I just pull the paint in the bottom of it out. It comes right out like a scab. The aluminum trays spill and you can't carry them without spilling. My men use these and I have reduced my costs on spillage. Usually they carry the aluminum tray full somewhere and spill it on the guys lawn or driveway after I was done resurfacing. Not any more. If you do painting for a living, I would suggest buying four of these, then you can change paint colors and they stack nicely. Plus you can put the paint brush in the little hole it has and paint doesn't get all over the handle of the brush or topple off a bucket or tray. It is a cleaner way to paint. Much cleaner. It is no gimmick. By the way, I have used this thing over two years. I even changed my oil out of my car and used it, then cleaned it out.
"Record the color" is a great idea!
Another tip:
If you don't use custom paint colors and usually mix your own paint color by hand like I do: Because I would not be able to reproduce it, I usually fill a little of the leftover paint into an empty jam jar. I write info like "living room, oct 2009" on it and keep it so I can paint over little scratches or stains in the future.