I recently had the pleasure of spending a weekend in Prague, which, besides being one of Europe's most beautiful cities, is also one of the most affordable. Along with a friend, I spent two days seeing the sights, drinking Czech beer and sampling the local cuisine — all for under $100.
We explored the city from our home base at the Hotel Casa Marcello, tucked into a winding street in Prague's old Jewish Quarter. The rate (about $100 a night) includes breakfast, and from the hotel all the destinations listed below are easily accessible on foot, if you don't mind walking a little. I'm betting you won't — Prague's gorgeous, twisting cobblestone streets are a big part of its appeal. (All prices are given in approximate US dollar amounts and will, of course, depend on exchange rates.)
Day 1:
• Our first stop was Prague Castle, across the river and up (quite a lot!) of stairs from our hotel. Tickets for the short tour (about $12.50) will get you into St. Vitus' cathedral and the old royal palace, where you can view the very window where the famous Defenestration of Prague took place.
• After you're through at the castle, it's a short walk to the Strahov Monastery, where monks have been brewing beer since the 17th century. Lunch and a couple of beers set me back $15. Reservations are reccomended; the brewery can get quite crowded.
• Bonus: The Strahov Monastery, besides serving some delicious beer, is also home to the gorgeous library where one of the dates on this season of the Bachelorette was filmed.
• Later that afternoon, we headed over to the Old Town Square to do some sightseeing and get dinner from a street vendor ($5). On the hour, you can watch the movement of the mechanical figures on the Astronomical Clock. The very ambitious can climb the 172 steps to the top of the tower in the Old City Hall to get rooftop views of Prague, although I passed on this, having climbed what felt like a million steps to get to the castle that morning.
• After dinner, we wandered towards the river to watch the sun setting from the Charles Bridge. Dating to 1357, the bridge is one of Prague's most picturesque spots, and has a great view of the castle.
• Crossing the river, we headed south to the Most Legii, another one of Prague's bridges, from which one can descend via staircase to the Strelecky Ostrov, a park-like island in the middle of the river. There, from a sandy beach (!) in the middle of the river, we watched boats go by — and heard five or six different languages being spoken.
• Later, we enjoyed a few beers ($5) at a beer garden by the river, while listening to live music and watching an impromptu fireworks show.
• Heading back to our hotel in the Jewish Quarter, we stopped by the Absintherie, right next to the town square. After some friendly Britons dissuaded me from ordering an absinthe mojito, I decided instead on a flight of 4 different kinds of absinthe (about $12.50). Some of the absinthes (a few of which contained thujone, an ingredient that's been banned in absinthes sold stateside, due to its supposedly hallucinogenic effects) were better than others. Sadly, I did not get a chance to try the absinthe ice cream.
Day two:
• On the second day, we walked a few blocks from our hotel to the Old Jewish Cemetery, which for 300 years was the only place where Jews in Prague could be buried. In some places, the graves are up to seven layers deep. Admission to the cemetery ($15) also gets you into the Pinkas Synagogue, which has been transformed into a memorial for the victims of the Holocaust in Prague. The names of nearly 80,000 men, women and children are inscribed on the synagogue's walls.
• From the Jewish quarter we headed south to U Medvidku ("At The Little Bears"), a brewpub that has been making beer since 1466. Though they were out of the pub's signature beer, the unusually strong XBeer-33, we did get to try Czech Budweiser (or Budvar), which is entirely distinct from (and in my opinion, much better than) American Budweiser. I especially liked the Budvar dark, which had a chocolately, malty finish. Lunch and a couple of beers at the brewery cost about $15, including an appetizer (the drunken plums — plums soaked in plum brandy and cooked in bacon. Highly recommended.)
• Along the river, just a bit farther south than U Medvidku, is Frank Gehry's famous 'Fred and Ginger' building (or 'The Dancing House'). Since we stopped by on a Sunday, the bar was closed, but on most days, the purchase of a cocktail at the building's bar entitles you to view the city from the roof deck.
• Our next stop (and one of my favorites of the weekend) was a boat rental place on the Slovansky Ostrov, an island in the river just north of the Dancing House. For about $6 per person per hour, we rented a paddleboat and cruised around the river, where we had a spectacular view of Prague from the water.
• Tired from our boating adventures, we headed back in the direction of our hotel, stopping for dinner at Lokal, a beer hall specializing in traditional Czech specialties with a modern twist. While watching the finale of the Eurocup, we enjoyed sausage and Slivovitz, a very popular plum brandy. My friend didn't enjoy the plum brandy much, but we both agreed that the Pilsner Urquell there was the best beer we'd had in the city. The beer comes directly to Lokal from Pilsen, where it's made, about an hour away, and is stored in the beer hall's huge tank (seen in the photo at left), which ensures that it's super-fresh. The best part? Dinner, two beers, and a glass of plum brandy cost each of us only $10.
So there you have it — a weekend in Prague for under $100. If you're planning to be in Europe, why not stop on by? You'll be glad you did.
(Images: Nancy Mitchell)


Shaw's Original Fir...
Praha is on my list! Friends have said it is the most beautiful city in the world.
Great post. I think I also did a free walking tour of Prague (just google).
Also, I think any AT fan would probably like the Mucha Museum (pretty centrally located, small fee for entering). If anything, the museum shop is free for browsing (I bought a book of prints :) ).
Gorgeous - my father's family line starts in the area, and I'd love to go one day! In the mean time, I'll just pine away from how much this makes me want to revisit Romania...
Great test for this city, probably the most affordable European city. I spent a summer going to school in Prague, lived very near Strahov Monastery and went to school next to the Jewish cemetery. At the time I had a low paying student job at my university in CA and when I got home I had my paycheck for half a month from before I left, it was like $350 and it covered all of my expenses while I was in the city. Had the best pizza ever there. Beer is cheaper than soda and water as all my drinking friends kept telling me. A few other things you can do for free: the National Museum is free the first Monday of each month and Vysehrad is free and offers the best views of the city (shh it is also like the best kept secret in the city because it is off the beaten path).
While there in college I vaguely remember a night drinking beer with brick oven pizza's in the basement of some building and stumbling out $5 poorer. Great city even if it wasn't cheap. I wonder if the Kmart's still there?
I am going in December, could you recommend a hotel?
I loved the beer garden in Letna Park--also a place with great views of the city. We also toured the Staropramen Brewery, the admission to which included very generous tastings of brews I'd never seen in the States. And, um, we did other things besides drink beer, I swear...
Prague is my very favourite city; it is quite simply the most beautiful city, and no, I'm not biased because I was born there!
My husband's (and dad's) favorite pub is U Medviku, so a great choice (not as touristy as some others). Besides drinking great Budvar (which is my favourite beer), you can try sampling more artisanal offerings: just check out the NYT article from a couple of years back.
An authentic, not very touristy, place to eat is the Café Louvre on Narodni, a couple of blocks up from the National Theatre, and down from the "My" department store. (no, the K-Mart is no more: the former Maj department store is now a Tesco, but is called My, a homonym of the original communist store name).
Kafka and Einstein used to eat there, and I've run into some famous Czech actors there on occasion (the fellow who starred in Kolya). Whenever we are in Prague, we rent an apartment in the neighborhood and eat at least half our meals at Café louvre; we're pretty much regulars there.
I recommend buying tickets for the LONG tour at the castle because you get to see much more, and can use them over 2 days.
The tent restaurant on Slovansky Ostrov is a great place to eat.
For kids, there is a Duck Boat which ferries passengers between the embankment in front of the Slavia Café (also can't miss that place; it is wonderful, and there is a statue of Havel in the entrance, as it was his favourite café), the children's island and the opposite shore. Our kids love it.
Another great place to eat is the Klub Architektu (the Architects' Club). You have to go through a gate, into a courtyard and down in to a basement, but the food is very nice, and it is well-priced.
Try and find a tour guide who can take you on an architectural tour of Prague; it is really worth it. That is what makes Prague so very beautiful -- her architecture. I know of no other city where you can go from the Romanesque, to the Medieval, Renaissance, oh and the glorious Baroque (!), Rococo, Classicist, various revival styles, Art Nouveau, Art Deco, Cubism (probably the only cubist villa in the world), as well as modernism (even under communism, they produced some nice architecture, like the addition to the National Theatre and the My department store), all the way to the present day, with the Fred & Ginger building and the Smichov mall designed by Jean Nouvel. DON'T MISS the Bauhaus modernist villas of Pod Baba -- a good architectural guide should take you there.
If you are in Prague for more than a week or so, or if you are going with kids, don't miss the Prague Zoo. Seriously. I hate zoos, but I love the Prague Zoo. You can take a boat down the river to the zoo (ask at your hotel or check online; it may be hard to find), which makes the trip even more fun. The zoo itself is more low-key than other zoos, with a lot of gravel paths, and natural landscaping which allows the animals to blend into their environment in a way I haven't seen elsewhere. Apparently Forbe's agrees it's great because they ranked it 7th best in the world.
@stonequeen, for hotel recommendations check out trip advisor; I would advise you to stay with PragueCityApartments. We've stayed with them probably 8 times over the years, and can highly recommend them (our favorite building is the Karolina -- very close to everything, including a major supermarket).
As much as I love Prague, I have to speak to the absinthe phenomenon in Prague...
Absinthe was invented in Switzerland, and true absinthe (and the best) is still produced there. Prague never had an absinthe culture such as that in Paris... Absinthe showed up in Prague in response to the tourist trade -- an enterprising Czech's way of further romanticizing a city which honestly didn't need it. The "absinthe" you can find in Prague is essentially wormwood vodka, completely lacking the depth and complexity of true absinthe. Try the real Swiss stuff, and you will see.
However -- besides Czech beer, I can strongly recommend Czech wines, and not just Moravian ones. Bohemia can boast 2 wonderful wines from Mělník, Ludmila Red and Ludmila White. If you come across them in Prague (wine stores sell them or at restaurants), try them!
Rather than climb the stairs to the castle, save your feet and spend $1 to ride the tram which goes around the back and drops you off at the top of the hill. See the sights (climb the Cathedral tower for a better view of the city than from the clock) and then walk down the hill back towards old town. If you don't want to walk all the way back, hop on another tram (or underground) at the bottom of the hill in lesser town.
Prague is THE most beautiful city in Europe.
Thanks for the trip down the memory lane, my eyes got quite misty. I lived in Prague for 3 years prior to moving to Canada.
I haven't checked any sources but if my memory serves me right, the Charles Bridge was built in 1348, not 1357 (but it possible the construction commenced in 1348 and went on till 1357). Legend has it eggs were used to bind the mortar.
The Charles University dates to 1348, but Charles Bridge to 1357.
The appalling recent renovation (not restoration) of the Charles Bridge are truly tragic... :-(
The charm and beauty of this city surpassed my expectations, even in its frozen state in early January! I couldn't agree more about the pizza...corn as a topping is genius! Beware, I spied an Ed Hardy shop in the city center.
I loved visiting Prague. We spent the majority of one day at the castle, climbing the steps, and in the surrounding area.
Thanks for the post, it takes me back a bit.
It's not just legend that eggs were used to help bind the mortar of Charles bridge! A few years back when flooding caused a lot of damage to the bridge, they took the opportunity to take samples of inner parts of the bridge dating to its origins before they restored the bridge as necessary. Testing of the samples found egg proteins.
I visited Prague in March and absolutely adored it. It's very easy to spend a few days there on a low budget.