The switch is a safety feature, and it seems the logic is that US line power is safer at 125V, as opposed to ~240V in most other countries. The lower voltage in the US is terrible for appliances BTW, since current is the limiting factor: a 10A appliance in the US can run at ~1250W, while 10A elsewhere could run at ~2400W...:(

Actually, the switch has proven more than just a safety mechanism. It works to reduce electricity waste.

The industry hadnt care, maybe it's time to bring this to market.

I've seen this in some outlets in bathrooms that are not large enough to have the outlet the required amount of space away from water outlets. I haven't seen this nice flip toggle type switch though; I have only seen tiny little flush ones sort of like the hard reboot button on a computer tower.

I am doing this completely from memory and may need correction, but the UK and probably australian systems use what was called a split perimeter loop wiring layout; instead of running a pile of wires back to the fusebox like north americans, they ran a high capacity wire around the space and the fuses were right at the outlet. So you have to be able to turn off the power at the outlet to change the fuse.

We lived in Europe for a couple of years and really miss that now that we are back in the US. I think though, sadly, that companies assume Americans would be too lazy for it. I'd put them in a heartbeat though.

Just to add to Lloyd's point - whilst we do have circuit ring mains, the fuses (in UK appliances) are in the plug and not the socket, as they are intended to protect the appliance because of the high voltage used in the UK. Each house also has a central consumer unit with the main circuit fuses in them, protecting the circuits themselves.

And more than you want to know, I'm sure but in case anyone's still reading: the on/off switch was originally one of the safety features when the UK switched to three-pin earthed sockets in about the 1950s (the other main safety feature is that the live and neutral connections have shutters over them, opened when the earth prong of the plug is inserted - it stops kids sticking things into the socket). The on/off switch also adds convenience and, yes, these days makes it a lot easier to switch things off to save electricity.

Strange. We always have on/off outlets in the UK too, although I've noticed that they don't always have them (or rarely? Not sure) in continental europe either. Doesn't seem to make sense not to have them.

I live in continental europe and we call this kind of outlet an ENGLISH OUTLET. yes, that's their name over here. As far as I know they are not common in mainland europe but we've got a few installed to cut electricity use. In europe you can buy them in normal hardware stores though.

Europeans & English have many more ways of saving power than we do. I hope we will adopt more of them over time. The first place I saw compact fluorescents was in Prague in '99. We had on-demand gas water heaters in London in '81. Our water heater in Wales had a timer so that baths were only possible certain times of day. Also there a tank in kitchen that we filled with water & heated just for washing dishes (cold water only in kitchen otherwise). Timer light switches in public halls in various aprt. buildings--you turn the timer switch, climb the stairs and then the lights go out! Wish I had that on some of mine.

You can buy an after-market add-on like this: http://www.coolest-gadgets.com/20081102/outlet-switch-turns-off-your-appliance-completely/

There are also older models for the US, like this:
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=outlet with switch&oe=utf-8&rls=com.ubuntu:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=14164673424391339736&ei=PjKcS67cKoSuNtLvvOYN&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=5&ved=0CCMQ8wIwBA#ps-sellers

Sorry about the long link. Harriet Carter used to carry a similar product, but I can't find it now. I was recently researching this, and you can also buy power strips with individual switches for each outlet. They are only slightly more expensive than regular power strips.

Whoops, link didn't work. Here's a better one:
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-109-05225-WSP-Combo-Switch-Receptacle/dp/B00004YUMX

This is gonna be boring, but I might as well unload it. Not saying either method is right or wrong, better or worse. First, switched receptacles are available in USA, but are not standard practice for all outlets. Actually USA receptacle and switch systems are modular and the cover plates come in all kinds of multiples and configurations. The modern ones in UK seem to be all fixed "ready made" configurations. So in USA you can add a switch to any receptacle with a two gang box to accomodate both items. Note also that USA receptacle modules normally have to outlets one above the other, so typically you would be switching both at the same time. BTW: The house supply in USA is two phase, allowing for both "220V' and "110V" circuits - the former being mainly used for large water heaters, spas. cooking ranges. In USA all appliances are required to have their own on/off switches (DK about the UK). Usually manual but can be automatic - e.g. "semi-automatic" such as a central vac, garage door opener or "fully automatic" such as a thermally controlled roof/attic fan. Typically it is a whole lot easier and more convenient to reach for the appliance switch than go groping around the walls or under and behind furniture for the receptacle switch. But also note the standard location of US receptacles is about 15 inches above floor level which in not the case in other parts of the world.
Relying (note "relying") on switching off appliances at the receptable rather than the appliance can be a dangerous habit - and frankly why would you switch off both? Moving the appliances to another receptable that happens to be on without checking the appliance switch state would turn it on immediately, which could be hazardous - and in the case of 240V systems, probably create a hefty spark at the receptacle and over time burn the contacts. For table lamps for example, many switches do not obviously indicate the status. Regarding "engery efficiency", in this case it is a human choice. If they are going to choose to be green and bother switch off power at the receptacle in UK they are going to unplug it at the same location in the USA. Though that is really only relevant to appliances with a standby mode which one would be choosing to disable. Anything else is "off" when switched "off", so no saving to be had. All the energy saving features of timers etc. mentioned by Charlotte are also commonly available in USA. However "multipoint" water heater systems in USA are typically (i.e. these days) instant heaters, not storage tanks and activated only by water flow - even more energy efficient (and no doubt same as modern UK systems). New commercial installations in USA now often include motion sensor light switches with build inactivity off timers. All offices, conference rooms bathrooms, etc where I work are that way - with manual off override too.
BTW: A bit off topic, but these days GFCI protection is required for essentially all receptacle circuits in USA - is this the same elsewhere? Also in USA receptacles must be sufficient in number that no point on a "continuous" wall is more than 6 ft from one. So all these things plus those mentioned by previous posts may factor into the codes in various countries. USA has used circuit breakers rather than fuse panels for many years, and since fused appliances or plugs are not always used in USA, they are more convenient. USA codes require certain wire gauges for specific circuit load capabilities and distances. They do not believe in (excuse the inference, not intended) being cheap on the wire gauge by letting the current flow both ways round a ring main (and incidentally if it were not fused at the receptacle, allowing a fault at the appliance to pull max current in both directions and double at the distribution panel). Granted there are advantages and disadvantages to both systems.
So in short our codes are different in many ways, but each is designed as a cohesive set of requirements, neither being necessarily better or worse.

That is very interesting. Thanks for posting it.

I think what most people would like the aussie/uk style receptacle for is coun ter top repceptacles so that you so your wall warts (charger/adaptors) can be shut off without being unplugged. More convenient and saves energy.

I've just come across this thread searching for switched outlets for Japan which uses the same plug type as the US (for standard domestic use at least). I haven't found any yet even though switches for individual outlets at the end of an extension lead are common.

Switched outlets are without doubt an environmentally friendly convenience. Regardless of the position of the outlets it is always easier to use a switch than pull out the plug. In fact if the outlet is not easily accessible it is much easier to use a switch than have to unplug. The claim that US appliances must have switches is misleading. I think many people would be surprised at how many appliances draw a small amount of current even when switched off ... and yes I do mean switched off, not just in standby mode.

The relative merits of wiring standards whilst maybe interesting, don't really have any bearing on the decision to have switches or not.

And for those not familiar with the UK, central fuse boxes have not been used for many years. They still exist in older houses but circuit breakers have been the norm since sometime in the 1980s I believe (and were available as an alternative to fuseboxes long before then). Of course language doesn't change as quickly as housing standards and there are still many people who refer to the "fusebox" even if it is a set of circuit breakers.

As for the outlets themselves, yes the UK has fixed configuration but only in the sense that the faceplate and socket/switches are a single unit. The boxes are standard (whether the more usual metal box for flush mounting or plastic type for surface mounting) so any new replacement socket (switched or switchless) can simply be put on
an existing box ... obviously double outlets and single outlets are not compatible with each other ;-)