Burning Man: All-Clad Emerilware pots n' pans

Burning Man: All-Clad Emerilware pots n' pans

Grace Shu
Sep 20, 2007

All right, this is more like a rant than a ooh-This-Is-Amaaazing review. I've heard from a good, reliable handful of culinary-minded folks that All-Clad makes pretty decent cookware, especially for those of us (OK, me) who consider cereal a solid meal worthy of being labeled "dinner." So, I futzed around the internet and found a 10-pc All-Clad Emeril-endorsed set marked down to $199 from $350, and thought to myself, "Self, perhaps you will be motivated to make a brisket! Or meatloaf! Find your inner domestic goddess! All hail the Martha! BAM!"

When I got the set and was whipping out a hot meal (cough-Skillet Sensations-cough) with the greatest of Emeril-ease, I grabbed the handle to expertly shake the pan around like they do on Food Network...and as some of you may already have guessed: I burnt my hand. And not just, ouch that burns...but more like "HOT [expletive] DIGGITY DAMN THAT HURTS LIKE A [expletive]! [Expletive]!"

So. Now, I am $200 and a few layers of skin short of being a satisfied All-Clad customer. Is it just poor design that a stainless steel pan have a blazingly hot handle? Or is this my culinary (and lack of common sense) ignorance rearing its ugly head?

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