Do you know what kind of looks you get when you go to the hardware store and tell the clerk you want to make a door? They point in the direction of "Doors & Windows" and mutter something about helping someone else —that's when you know it's time to take matters into your own hands. Why would you want to build your own door you ask? Because molding and headers are so last year!

My husband and I needed a temporary door until we finished some construction and drywall work on the lofted space above our living room. Ideally we'd like to use industrial barn hardware and keep the sliding effect, but until we finish the planned construction, we built our own just in case something wild and crazy happens. Although we intend for it to be temporary, its construction is simple and easy to do for permanent places as well! Materials come in right around the $35 price point (depending on finishing accessories like handles and such) which makes it a win in the style category and for your pocketbook! Here's how we made it:

What You Need

Materials
2 plumbing flanges
1 (possibly 2) plumbing angle brackets
Length of plumbing pipe
3 "hinged loops"
2 full sheets of masonite
1 bundle of 2x2's
2 small wheels
Assorted nails/brads
20 wood screws

Equipment
Nail gun or hammer
Screw driver
Level

Instructions

1. Build The Frame
You don't need architect's plans to build a door, you just need a drill, or even less — a screw driver. Check out the photo above to see how the 2x2's were assembled (one screw joining each board). It will feel flimsy and wobbly, but that's ok. The goal is to make a structure that is the same dimension as your masonite.

2. Cover It Up
Your masonite can be nailed down to your frame, glued with adhesive, or tacked down with brads. If you glue it, allow to dry overnight undisturbed. If it was nailed, carry on to the next step!

3. Add Wheels
Determine which end of your door will be the bottom and attach your wheels. We used ones that only rolled one direction. We didn't need our door having any more challenges to overcome, so side to side was all we needed — and bonus, they're cheaper!

4. Add Hinged Loops
We're sure these pieces have a real name, but they're the product of wandering around the hardware store looking for something that was the right size. We finally found them over with the flashlights and tie downs and other locks. We suggest drawing a picture before you ask where they're located as you might get some puzzled looks. Attach them to the top of the door with wood screws.

5. Add Pipe
The first step to assembling the hardware is to slide the pipe through the hinged loops on top of the door. This pipe should be cut at the hardware store and it's size will be determined by the size of your space.

6. Add Angles & Flanges
To the end of your pipe, add any angled pieces required and flanges to the end.

7. Level & Mark
This step is best done with 2, if not 3 people. It seems like it will be easy, but in all reality, the more hands the merrier! Place the level on top of the door. Hold the door in place and mark holes for your screws to attach the plumbing pieces to the wall (you don't have to mark them, but if for any reason the door shifts, it's easier to know where things line up). You want the pipe to be just under the loops when they're fully extended up.

8. Screw Baby Screw
Attach the plumbing hardware to the wall.

9. Check Your Work
Try sliding the door open and closed. If all was square and level, things should roll just perfectly along the floor. If you like, you can add a small loop on the inside of the door. Some spaces might allow you to eliminate this step, but ours didn't.

Additional Notes:
This project works especially well on floors that are level. If your space is old and has a good dose of "character" there's a good chance they might be off slightly. You can raise the plumbing pipe inside the loops to help balance this out. Check to see how much your floor is un-level by to determine if this fix will work for you before beginning.

Images: Sarah Rae Trover

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