I love delicate porcelain. Plates, bowls, vases — I've even started collecting pieces from White Forest Pottery, much to my wallet's chagrin. What I don't love are the moments right after you accidentally chip one of your prized possessions. But before writing them off completely, I thought I'd see if there was anyway I could salvage my beauties. While I realize they will never be 100% perfect again, my attempt at salvaging them was quite worthwhile.
What You Need
2 part clear drying epoxy
clear glaze
fine sandpaper or fine glass paper
oil-based artist paint or chalk pastels/artists' powder pigments
masking tape
q-tips
alcohol
toothpicks
paintbrush
Instructions
1. Before beginning, I researched many different ways to repair broken or chipped porcelain (although, you should be able apply this to most ceramic pieces). I had a couple different chipped dishes, so I tried out a couple techniques that I thought seemed to make the most sense. I would like to note that this was a bit of trial and error, until I figured out what would work best for each application. Hopefully, you can use what I learned throughout the process to help guide you along. See "Additional Notes" below for a few pointers that I wished I had known before starting.
2. Clean the surface with rubbing alcohol to remove any residue. You may need to use bleach if there is any discoloration on the chip or repair piece to prevent a dark line from being noticeable after the repair. Determine whether the chip lines up (and practice matching it up). If you don't have the missing chip or you only have part of it, you may still be able to repair it using the epoxy as a filler if the chip isn't too big.
3. If you have the chip, or sections of the chip, I found it useful to mask the back of the dish with masking tape to provide support. It will also allow you to build up the layers on larger chips. Make sure your tape extends just slightly beyond the rim of your dish. If it's a clean, nice break you may be able to skip the tape. Mix your epoxy according to the directions and make sure to protect your work surface. Put a small bead of epoxy on your toothpick and coat the edge of the chip sparingly with the epoxy. Place the chip in its aligned position and press gently and hold for about 60 seconds. Carefully scrape away excess glue with a toothpick. If you don't need filler, you can skip to step 6.
4. If you need filler for areas around the chip, like I did, make up your tinted filler by mixing your oil-based paint or powder pigments/chalk pastels (scrape coordinating pastels with knife until fine), with your epoxy. Try not to add too much pigment as it prevents the filler from setting properly. Filler should have a yogurt-like consistency. Make sure you have masking tape behind the missing section for support. Put the filler onto the end of a toothpick and fill the area around the chip, extending slightly beyond the edge. Don't worry if you can't get enough built up to replace it properly, once it dries you can always repeat this step to gradually build up the layers.
5. Allow it to cure overnight before sanding it smooth, it should be hard to touch and not at all tacky. Remove the masking tape.
6. Once you are satisfied with the dried epoxy, use medium to fine glass paper or extra fine sandpaper to remove any excess filler, taking care not to scratch the glaze. During the sanding process, shape the filler to match the rest of the dish and rim. Continue the process until the filler is flush with the rest of the surface.
7. Once you have finished sanding and the surface is smooth, apply a thin layer of glaze. You'll need to gently feather it onto the undamaged sections so there is no visible join line. Allow the glaze to dry according to the directions.
8. One of my finished, newly repaired dishes. As you can see, I was able to repair a dish that was not only chipped, but I didn't have all of the missing pieces either. It's not perfect, but pretty close. Also to note, when I glued the missing piece onto this dish, I made the mistake of using an epoxy that dried yellow. The join line would have even been less visible if I had used a clear-drying epoxy. I did use clear epoxy when making up the filler. If this is a dish you intend to eat from, I would not recommend putting it in the oven or dishwasher.
Additional Notes:
1) When choosing an epoxy, make sure you use a clear-drying epoxy with a longer work time (I preferred Devcon High-strength epoxy with a 30 minute work time). This is important for 2 reasons. When trying to color match the epoxy/filler, you definitely will want the additional work time. Also, if you do not use clear-drying, it was nearly impossible to mix the appropriate color. If you only have one chip, with no need for filler, an epoxy with a 5 minute work time should be sufficient!
2) I preferred using the oil-based paint over the pastels. I found scraping the pastels into dust gave you uneven-sized particles. While they weren't noticeably to the naked eye, you could tell when you mixed them with the epoxy. This probably would not be the case if you used artists' powder pigments.
3) If you are using the epoxy more as a filler (because you are missing some of the chipped piece), mixing a little talcum powder will give it a thicker consistency.
4) Be patient! If you are using the epoxy as a filler, you might need to apply a few layers, allowing it to dry between applications.
5) Take proper precautions when working with epoxy. Use latex gloves (when applying it), and a dust mask (necessary when sanding), and protect your work surface.
Images: Kimberly Watson
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Sorry, but this is totally not worth it. If this even worked the images would show the detail and not have the final image in black and white with the repair out of focus.
This looks labor intensive, but you may have just saved my grandmother's Herend platter that my toddler broke last week. Thanks for being so detailed!
I'm not sure how the masking tape works exactly - am I putting it on the main piece of porcelain or the chip? Do I fold it over the whole "fracture" while it's setting like a cast/brace?
I suppose if you like crazing you could even break your piece further and then reassemble totally and not worry so much about the crack being visible, since that would be the point. Sounds... excessively labor intensive, but maybe someone enjoys working with their hands that way? XD
All right, but please don't do this anything worth money, or that has sentimental value. With the materials you're using, the repair will be a completely different color in a few years, and depending on the porosity of the object, may have permanently damaged it. I do this professionally, and my bread and butter is redoing repairs by the owner. If you care about it, take it to a professional, because it will be much cheaper to have them do it the first time than to have them undo your work and redo it. Major kudos for the safety precautions though--too often ignored!
I glanced at an article somewhere recently about repairing cracks in ceramics by soaking the piece in milk. Could this even be remotely possible? I meant to go back and read it when I had more time, and now I can't remember where I saw it. It was for hairline cracks, but I can't believe it. Anybody ?? Thanks. And yeah, I'd take the piece to a professional if I cared about it. It's amazing what they can do !
Artfemme11--Never heard of that, but I think it might possibly work. You might have to live with a sour milk smell, though, and possibly bacteria or even mold growth. I definitely wouldn't use it again after the treatment. For home repairs, I always recommend PVA (elmer's white glue), which has the added benefit that you can thin it with water to secure a crack. I would suggest this before milk. Similarly, you wouldn't be able to use it again (PVA is water soluable). Up with Elmers, down with Gorilla Glue, superglue, Krazy Glue and hardware store epoxy!
farkasmouse - If you look at the 4th picture, you can see a tiny bit of the masking tape peaking out above the dish. Because I didn't have all the pieces, the masking tape was applied to the back of the dish to give the epoxy a place to settle (otherwise it would have just dripped through). It is a little labor intensive and might be worth taking it to a professional if it's an heirloom - but if you aren't willing to go that route and it would otherwise be stashed away or disposed of, I do think it's worth the try.
ingridli - Agree 100%! But for me, it was try fixing it on my own or it would probably have just ended up stashed away. A couple of the pieces that I fixed are just hanging on my wall, and you can barely notice the chip now. I do have one sentimental piece that I didn't fix, so just curious, what is a ballpark price to repair something like this? ... and thanks for the kudos! Safety first :)
mattster - The final picture is NOT in black and white. I actually took it outside so there would be better light because the fluorescent I was working under would not allow a decent shot - just as I did in the 5th photo. I showed it from that angle so you could see the edge of it that had to be rebuilt. Look at the 5th photo, to the right of the epoxy filler, and you can see that the break line is barely visible. You can also look at the 7th photo, where all I had to do was apply the glaze. As for your comment on this being "totally not worth it", well that is your opinion. I'm of the mindset "waste not, want not" - so for me, yes it was worth my time and money (only cost me $4 for the epoxy).
great instructions. I hate to throw things out and would definitely try this. It beats just super-gluing it together.
KimberM--the place I used to work for would probably have charged something like $50. It really depends on who you go to, of course, and whether they think themselves above the little jobs. (If someone quotes a fortune, it may mean that they really don't want to do the job, perhaps because they're busy or just don't like the piece, and they're quoting high to make you go away.) If there are more pieces, more missing areas, or a previous repair to undo, the price will increase considerably.
I can absolutely understand wanting to take care of it yourself--I do all sorts of jobs around the house that I could pay someone else to do much better, but I just don't. And art restoration is, especially in these times, the epitome of unnecessary luxury. Got to get a plug in for my profession when I can though!
Elmer's Ceramic cement is a good contact cement for this purpose. It dries fast so you can hold two pieces together, wait ten minutes, then continue on to the next piece. I glued up two ginger jars that had been absolutely smashed. They aren't perfect, but, they are holding fast.
@artfemme11-- the milk repair was an old AT post for cracked, but not smashed stuff-- I don't think it'd work in this case, but here's the link: http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/chicago/tips/what-does-milk-have-to-do-witch-cracked-china-136442
I agree with ingridli...Elmer's water based glue is the way to go for any ceramic piece (and it is what every professional potter will tell you as well). I have used it successfully with not only decorative pieces that had a clean break in the kiln, but also my everyday dishware (for small chips and the like). I've handwashed these pieces AND put them in the dishwasher with no ill effects to the repair. I expect that these repairs will not last forever, but it has saved several dishes from the trash.
I agree, that is my opinion. Thanks for pointing that out. I can see now that the last photo isn't B&W, my mistake, but the repair is still out of focus. If this worked at all you would showcase the detail, not hide it. We even have a professional here stating that it won't even be the same color in a few years. You've spent more work ruining it rather than just replacing it or finding a use for it where the chip doesn't matter.
If it's a valuable or sentimental piece, then professional repair is probably wise advice.
But "throw it out, it's not worth the work"? That's a nice attitude to take! Even if it did discolour after a couple years, that's still two more year's worth of use you got out of it.
Even if I could afford to replace every last thing every time it got slightly damaged, I doubt I would. If something I loved broke I may choose to take it to a professional or try my hand at repairing it myself (now I know how).
Mtlyorel if you dislike these posts so much maybe it would be an idea to not click on a link titled How To Repair Chipped China. Just a suggestion.
Just a little story for fun...when I lived in Afghanistan, I used to marvel at the teapots in the chai houses. They were like crazy quilts; if there was a missing piece, it was sometimes replaced by a piece from a different pot, cut to fit and patched in. Each break was not only apparently glued, but 1/8 inch brass staples were inserted to strengthen the repair. The combination of the various china patterns...obviously antique and some of great age, some English, Chinese, Russian, who knows...and the lovely staples created an object of great beauty, the more repairs the better. It's the one thing from my time there that I miss not being able to acquire. THANKS for the link, deedl, I was just looking for the repair of a hairline crack, not a break, and that's the one !
Ok I can simplify this into one step- superglue the damn broken hunk and call it done! Superglue won't kill you. Clean breaks on china, since I was a kid, I've just ran a little superglue over it, put it together and you wont even see the crack. Holds up to washing, banging around. Why make such a process out of it geez.
I've never seen custom-color epoxy mixed like this. Do you think this could be used to make metallic epoxy? I have a project that is crying out for it!