I've painted many rooms in my day (I'm a little bit of a painting junkie), and like so many other things, once you get the hang of the process it's really quite fun. Throw on some old clothes, kick out the jams, and after a few hours of good old physical labor, you'll have a wonderfully transformed space.
I've found that getting my supplies in order makes a big difference when the time comes to start painting. Having all prep and paint supplies at the ready cuts down on frustration and helps the process move along more quickly. If you're getting ready to start your own painting project, here's a supply checklist that should cover everything you'll need.
Prep Materials
Before getting to the fun part, it's important to spend a few hours prepping your walls; patching holes, cleaning, and sanding are all important to achieving the best result.
• Spackle & spatula - Use to patch any holes.
• Metal paint scraper - Use to scrape off any peeling or cracking paint (if necessary) before sanding.
• Fine grit sand paper - Use to even out rough texture and smooth down any bumps.
• Mild soap & water solution - Use to clean any dirt or grease off walls before priming.
• Painter's tape - Use to tape off borders so paint doesn't bleed into areas you are not painting; also use painter's tape to cover hardware and outlets. I really like Frog Tape, which I've found to work great to achieve clean edges.
Painting Supplies
• Canvas tarp or plastic drop cloth - Use to protect floors and furniture (if furniture cannot be moved out of the general painting area). I've even used old newspapers in a pinch, but wouldn't recommend if painting in a carpeted area.
• Angled paint brush - Use to paint corners. Angled brushes help achieve clean edges without paint bleed, which can be tricky in corners if using a regular flat brush.
• 3-inch flat paint brush - Use for "cutting in", which is the process of painting the border around the taped-off area.
• Paint roller frame & roller covers - Use a roller for the majority of painting, since it's a much faster method than a brush. If you're painting a large room or a room with high ceilings, I would recommend using a painter's pole, which you attach your roller to for extended reach.
* Note about roller covers: Make sure to choose an appropriate roller cover for your project. All covers are not made the same, as some are designed for smooth wall surfaces, others for stucco or brick, and yet others are designed for extra smooth surfaces like metal.
• Paint tray - Use to hold smaller portions of paint as you work. Also useful to avoid dipping brushes directly into paint cans, which can contaminate paint with dust and dirt.
Paint
• Primer - Primer is an undercoat applied before color. If you are painting over an existing color, primer covers existing color and creates a blank slate so the new color will go on evenly and require less coats. Primer also contains binding properties that allow paint to adhere more evenly, so you can achieve a much more polished result in a shorter amount of time. Many paint brands now have the option of having primer mixed into the paint color, which can be a time-saving option.
• Interior Paint - Finally, the fun part! Beyond choosing the color, there are different types of paint and each type is suited for different purposes.
- Flat paint is suited for low-traffic areas and ceilings, since it provides a dull, no-gloss finish and is harder to clean.
- Satin and Eggshell paints are suited for higher traffic areas (e.g., living and bedrooms) since they are easy to clean and offer light-reflective qualities that are desirable in most rooms.
- Semi-gloss and High-gloss paints are suited for trim, windowsills, banisters, or smaller surface areas; these paints are not recommended for wall surfaces.
For those of you who are nervous about taking on interior painting, don't be. It may not go perfectly the first time out, but in the words of Bob Ross, the man, the myth, the painter of so many happy little trees...just so, so many little trees: "There are no mistakes, just happy accidents". Word. Now go paint some happy little walls!
(Image: Shutterstock)
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This sounds like a preparation for a C-section.
I paint frequently and all I use is a roller, a regular brush, and a tape. Oh, and the plastic "spout" thingy that you attach to the can of paint to prevent the paint in all the grooves of the can.
All I do is I put 2 sheets of wallpaper on the floor under the can where I pour the paint. That's it. No drop cloth, nada.
I would say careful with the sandpaper. Drywall, even though it is smooth, it does have a very fine texture and the sanded spots will be visible on the painted wall when you look against the light.
I'm wondering if there is a primer that would fill the wood grain on oak cabinets? I want to achieve a smooth finish on my kitchen cabinets without having to use some kind of filler. Any suggestions would help.Thanks!
@kalexander:
check out 10.3.12 post on little green notebook: http://littlegreennotebook.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2012-10-04T12:18:00-04:00&max-results=3&start=3&by-date=false
I don't think so, because the wood grain is really just grooves into the surface of a cabinet. Paint won't fill it in unless you use layers and layers of paint, and at that point you might as well use wood filler and sand it down to be smooth.
@kalexander - you might want to check out the Young House Love posts about painting their oak kitchen cabinets. They used filler on holes they wanted to reposition but otherwise "just" sanded, deglossed, primed, and painted and the results look pretty smooth. You can see a little bit of texture, but not enough to bother me. They used a high-quality self-leveling paint, which I think makes a pretty big difference but there's a lot more detail on their site (spread over several posts but I think this one is a good summary): http://www.younghouselove.com/2012/01/how-to-paint-your-cabinets-aka-hallelujah/ (Scroll down for a discussion of how much grain is visible.)
Pro tip: when you open the paint can, before you pour, take a hammer and nail and make little holes all around the grooved part of the can's lip. That way, it won't collect paint and drip down the sides and make a mess--it will drip right back into the can. So you won't need a pour spout. And you don't need a paint opener either, just use flat head screwdriver.
And what about the tip of putting a rubber band around the middle of the paint can (across the opening) to clean the paint brush on?
Don't forget about TIME! It always takes longer than you think it will. I like to tape off the room, move furnature, etc. the night prior. That way the next day it's straight to painting.
Wouldn't that end up snapping paint everywhere? I always just use the edge of the can.
I adore my Shurline edger. I am currently repainting all rooms in my home and I really appreciate this little tool quite a bit.
Second the edger comment. Also, except for the floor line and hardware I don't want to remove, I don't tape anything. In my old home where nothing is square or straight taping actually made it worse. I watched a pro do a small section and they don't tape. So when I started my bedroom a few weeks ago I went without tape. Edging is a little slower but prep time is way faster as is clean-up and my edges look better than with tape.
sand, then prime, then sand, then prime, then sand with a finer sandpaper then paint, then wet sand with fine sandpaper, then paint again and then maybe you'll get a smooth surface.
I agree with your painting supplies but nothing with make the process more enjoyable than easy cleanup.
Rejuv-a-roller Cleaner: The thing will clean the paint out of a roller in less than a minute. No joke. PAINT FREE. Now you can buy REALLY good rollers which make a heck of a difference.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010SDDTG/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i01
Brush comb: Getting paint of a brush will never seem so easy.
http://www.amazon.com/Purdy-140900520-Contractor-Stainless-Cleaning/dp/B003ZDOO2O/ref=pd_cp_hi_0
Roller/brush spinner. After you wash out the Roller or brush, dry it in seconds with this neat tool
http://www.amazon.com/SHUR-LINE-5200-Professional-Roller-Cleaner/dp/B00004Z4HL/ref=pd_cp_hi_0
Together these save enormous time, money and water. And they make the worse part of painting (ok taping trim is the worst part) actually kind of fun. For less than $50 your use these tools for a lifetime.
Yes and you get paint on the edge of the can. You're not using a lot of pressure to clean the brush=no 'snapping'. Also, paint falls back into can=little waste.
This post reminds me that I'm putting off a fun home painting project (kids' bathroom mural) because I have to find the right caulk. Any ideas from this lovely community about the best caulk to use on an interior bathroom window under primer and paint? many thanks!
These definitely helpful for most homeowners to do a D-I-Y painting. Like Denver residential painting, they also offer vast numbers of painting materials that you can use in your home.