Invest in a simple mat cutter and the world of framing is at your fingertips. Cutting mats is easy, inexpensive, and takes your artwork to a new level. It looks custom, even if you buy a readymade frame from a store.
What You Need:
Materials:
Mat board
Artwork
Tools:
Sharp straight blade, such a X-Acto knife or box cutter
Mat cutter, like this Logan 4000 Pull-Style Cutter
Straight edge ruler
Pencil
Protective cutting surface
Store bought frame
Instructions:

1. Make sure your cutting surface is clean. Cut a section of the mat board to match the dimensions of your frame. Tip: Use the backing that comes with the frame as a template by tracing around it.

2. Measure for your proposed opening. If your artwork is perfectly centered on the mat, this is easy. Subtract the width of the artwork from the width of the mat, then divide in half. That's how much space will be left on each side. If things aren't centered or square, you'll need to do the math for each side separately.

3. Based on your measurements, draw cut lines on the back of the mat board. Some mat cutters (like the one pictured) have a built in ruler/pencil mechanism that makes this easy. Follow instructions that come with the cutter and it will handily draw a straight line as a cutting guide. Otherwise, you'll need to do it old school with a ruler and your noodle.

4. Line your straight edge along the left side of the first cut line (I didn't have a straight edge, so I used the edge of a picture frame). Place the mat cutter against the straight edge, with the cutter's tick mark lined up with the top cutting line.

5. Press firmly down to engage the blade, and pull towards you until the tick mark hits the bottom horizontal cut line. Tip: I sometime pull the tiniest smidge past each cut line to ensure that the cut goes all the way through to the corner, and doesn't create a hanging chad situation (we all know how serious those can be). Practice makes perfect here.

6. Repeat this process along each cut line, until the middle of the mat pops out. Note that beveled edge. Pretty.

7. Center artwork behind the mat and secure with archival tape. Frame.
(Images: Dabney Frake)

Sprout Side Table
I am sorry, but there is nothing professional looking about your framing. Sorry to crash your parade. But your cut has gone way past the corner. I am an artist myself and bought the right cutting implement for this angled cut, and I could not get them precisse without your "gone beyond the line" corners... So I learnt from exprience, leave it to the professionals. I asked my local guy to show me his machines, no way I could do it with the precission that his machine can do it. And I have been cutting matts since the age of 15, and used to make my own canvases etc etc, but the angled cutting, I leave to professionals.
For those of us that can't afford professional framers (that is an incredibly inflated industry, if you ask me) this is a great alternative. And who looks at your art that closely that they would notice that tiny little cut. Maybe not 100%, but sometimes good enough is good enough.
One pro tip I use when cutting matts is to stop short of cutting to the corner. I usually come within 1 and 2 centimeters of the corner and then take a virgin blade, one new blade per four corners is my rule, and hand cut the corners. I then meticulously go over the corners and ensure a perfect corner. It is the first thing to look for in a pro cut matt to see if the job was done right. One other thing, make sure your blades are in great shape. Throw them out regularly, and store them well. I buy individually wrapped blades form light impressions or Pearl Paint.
Gotta agree with Anusha73. Those handheld mat cutters are really dificult to use and give really poor results. Art stores have more expensive cutters that have a long straight edge (they are about $50) and they are better, but still you have the cut corners issue. I'd say that if you just absolutely have to DIY this kind of project, don't waste time with the handheld cutter. Get the bigger more expensive one. Plan on clamping the mat board in some way so it doesn't wiggle while you cut it. And the reason you get the hanging chad issue is because of the bevel in the cutter, so "over" cut only by the width of the board, no more. Then you will get a better result (but still not nearly as good as professional.) Finally, get extra blades for the cutter, because they are only good when they are extremely sharp. This means they only work for a couple of passes and then start tearing, rather than cutting, the board.
But here's the thing: you're going to spend $50 on the cutter, you're going to need twice as much mat board (at least) so you can throw away your screw ups, which are inevitable, hang 5 or 6 pictures that don't look that great, and then you're going to have this big cutter thing cluttering up your house for who knows how long. Then in a few years, you're going to want to get rid of your awful wobbly frame job on what is most likely just a crappy poster. Save your money. Get real art. Have it framed properly, and enjoy it for real.
The overcuts are very noticeable. I used to cut mats in my studio art class on a jig that had a cutter for the horizontal and one for the vertical. I'd come within a few millimeters of the corner, and then hand cut the rest with an Xacto. The blades in the mat cutter was kinda crappy, so this technique this gave me much better results.
I agree those corners look a mess... skip the whole palaver and go to www.framesbymail.com, where you can order custom frames and mats that come perfectly cut every time. $6-7 for an 8x12" plain mat in a variety of colours - and you can get custom cut backing and plexi too. I swear by them.
I would agree with 2kidsandus about the industry being over inflated. I also noticed the cut mark being a bit too long, but as they say practice makes "better" so keep at it. I think it's a nice idea. Good job!
One thing that was also missed- the bottom needs to be weighted. Meaning the bottom part of the mat will measure more than the top of the mat. Not all sides will be equal. If all sides are equal and you stand back, it will look off. That's just the way the eye works. So it's best to add at least 1/4" (or more) extra to the bottom so that illusion doesn't happen. It was noticable in school if someone didn't weight the bottom. It helps to mark the back to know which end is the bottom too. Cutting your own mat board will save you lots. It's ridiculous how overpriced framing is. It's easy once you do it a couple times, and it feels good being able to do it and admire it after.
I have tried this and it is not as easy as described! I was very careful and it looked totally rubbish. Have given up and get them professionally done again now :(
GARETH NY, I will try that web site - great tip... I personally find doing this kind of work, a waste of my time and the results are never perfect (I am an artist, so I want my frames to look perfect - to those that "less than perfect" for this kind of display is good - kudos to you), I prefer to let a machine do a perfect job. Matting is not the place to get that "handmade feeling" :-)
Prints should never be matted and should be floated to show the edges of the paper.
I agree with most of the other commenters: the machine and a professional do it better. Little known tip: Chain arts & crafts stores like Hobby Lobby and Michael's will cut you a custom mat for just a few bucks, even if you're not buying a custom frame. I usually bring in my print or photo, pick out a premade frame from the sale or clearance section, and then ask the person at the framing counter to cut me a mat to fit. I think the last time I did this, the cut mat cost around $6.
I'm an artist and I cut my own mats for unusually sized projects and it is NOT easy, for most people, investing $30 in a tricky handheld mat cutter is not worth your time. It is painstaking, and you will mess up the first few times like the corners in this example, which I would never use as a finished mat. Mattes are very cheap in standard sizes in stores like Dick Blick or online, I wouldn't bother with this for most.
So much criticism! If you don't want to try it yourself, don't! For the mat in the example, if you carefully burnished down the over cuts you probably wouldn't see them. I cut a LOT of mats in art school. Yeah, it's hard to do by hand, but with practice you can get great results. Not everyone has the money to spend on professional framing. I don't think anyone I'd have in my home would be offended by my hand cut mats.
I don't think the picture is a good advertisement for the article, it does not look very professional. I am a stickler for details and this looks too messy.
However, I do appreciate the article because it came at the right time. I have some artwork to hang in salvaged frames and this has convinced me to have the mats cut by a pro, no matter what the cost. Sometimes, you just get what you pay for.
Having mats professionally cut is almost too easy compared to DIY. Check out AmericanFrame.com or PictureFrames.com. Just put in your dimensions and they will ship the mats to you. No need to buy yet another tool that will only come in handy once in a blue moon and, as evidenced by the above photos, doesn't even do a very good job.
ANNIEMAC85 has the best tip! Thank you... I didn't realize the chain stores would cut mats so cheaply. Yours seems like the perfect solution!
i agree with vixvax!! some people enjoy doing these things for themselves. it will be easier for some people than others, it does take practice. there are no rules about how you want to display artwork in your own home. you do not "have to" bottom weight. sometimes you have a found frame that doesn't allow for it. also, mat your prints if you want. it's all about personal taste. i am a professional framer and i would say make sure all materials touching your artwork are archival, if you want to preserve the item. handheld matcutters can work. sometimes i choose a handheld over a big matcutter. weight your straightedge & the board you are cutting to prevent things from moving. make sure you have something beneath your mat when you cut, like a scrap of matboard. overcuts can be cleaned up ususally, when they are smushed against the glazing it is not noticeable. i have plenty of overcut mats in my house from when i was learning, i've had no complaints.
I have had several mats cut a frame shops over the years. You get a professional look and it is not too expensive. Some will cut a mat that you supply for a nominal fee.
This mantra of "order online, order online, order online" drives me crazy. You can spend the same amount at a local business, support your local economy and get better service.
I don't think anyone I'd have in my home would be offended by my hand cut mats.
I don't think it's a matter of who is "offended", it's just a simple cost-benefit analysis. By the time you go out to the store, buy some mats and a cutter, spend hours measuring, cutting and so forth, what have you really gained? An imperfectly cut mat, most of the time. There are just better solutions that are arguably less expensive, time consuming and yield better outcomes. Plus they don't require you to buy yet another gadget.
I can't help but think that people who are saying just leave it to the professionals have never actually gone in with a bunch of art to get framed. Lucky for me, I just did! Two of those are custom framed, one of them with a double mat. Those two pieces with were framed at $375. The nude drawing (18 x 24'') is in a ready-made frame that was $60. I'm in Chicago, I don't know if this is an inflated price or not -- but it seems really absurdly expensive for three rather smallish pieces.
After that experience... I think I'll be trying to perfect my own mat-board cutting. Even if I go put down the $50 for the cutter and another $20-30 for the mat-board I'll mess up/use, it seems like a better idea.
tl;dr -- thanks for the tutorial, I'm going to try it out. Especially for smaller pieces.
I had a terrible experience with framesbymail. I ordered multiple frames. All were black and all were marred. I was using most of them in a dark hall but if we move I will have to get other frames or paint them the marring is so bad. Also, one of the plexi pieces was cut to the wrong dimension...of course for the ONE expensive piece of art I was framing. And they wouldn't replace it!!! Never again. You get what you pay for and since they aren't a brick and mortar store you can't really fight about the quality, etc. without paying more for shipping them back.
I was seriously excited to see this come up as a topic as I have been searching the thrift shops to find unique frames to hold my ever growing art collection. I am one of the people that can not afford professional framing, at all. I have two hands and am able body so I will do it myself and save a bunch of money. I also went to college for art and have cut many mats in my lifetime. I hated it with a passion but if it is going to save me money and I get to hang the art that I love up for display in my house then I will do the labor. As for the quality of the work above I think that it is up to the person who is doing the labor to decide what they are okay with having an over cut or not. It is your house, you shouldn't be decorating to impress other people you should be decorating it so you feel at home, or at least that is what I think. If I am okay with a little cut in a corner on a mat that you can only see if you are 3 inches away then who cares if someone else doesn't like it. As for rules with how much framing of mat should be on bottom vs the top I think you should do whatever you like and looks good for you. Again it is your art. Display it however you want. Turn it upside down if you really feel like it. Saying things like "you should never frame a print" or "You should always make the bottom of the mat thicker" are personal opinions, there are no rules with art or what you want when decorating your home. It is YOUR HOME!
Rant over. Happy Matting.
Two comments.
Get archival mat board -- the non-archival kind has acidic content that will discolor anything over time. Even if you THINK you don't care now, you may be surprised at how long you want to hold onto something. I have a sketch I did on a trip that I matted "for now" in a pre-cut oval craft store mat, and now the white drawing paper has a dingy brown edge at the opening of the mat. Permanent damage. If it had been the work of another artist I'd be even more bummed. The only solution is to cut a new mat a bit smaller in opening to cover the damage...
Watch yard sales, flea markets, and thrift shops for usable frames. I just got a pretty bad watercolor painting of somebody's house for a dollar. It was matted and framed under glass. I took things apart, Windexed the glass, cut fomecore to fit, covered the fomecore with some attractive art paper I happened to have, and mounted a piece of Chinese calligraphy that had hung for years taped to the wall in the Library where I work. I thought about salvaging the mat, which I probably would have painted since it was a little dirty looking, but it wasn't a perfect fit for this piece, so I scrapped it. The framed, mounted calligraphy is now hanging in the Library once again, looking much more like a serious work of art. For a dollar. You can do this too!
I am often disturbed by the snarky, rude, well, just mean tone of the comments on AP. how about treating those brave enough to post as they were humans too?
hey all...
i am a professional framer. the mats dont look that bad, but would look much better if you allow a pro to do it. we use a computerized mat cutter. we know how to measure and dont mind cutting mats for your frame.
to whom ever stated that frames are inflated....what isn't????
again, you get what you pay for. we professional framers take alot of pride in our product, which means we want the art to look the best it can. close to perfect as possible is what i strive for.
SHOP LOCAL!!!!
If you're careful, cutting your own mats is easy. I use the same Logan matcutter as above and as long as you start and stop exactly on the line and rotate the mat counterclockwise you're golden. As for the picture frame as straightedge? buy a metal yardstick and use a couple of clamps on a cutting board and it'll keep the board nice and tight so you can focus on the cut. And shop local dammit.
The only problem with the post is that it implies it's easy to get pro results. It's not at all easy. I think that's what people are taking exception to.I tried with the same tools as the article suggests, and I have a very steady hand. I've gone back to letting frame stores cut it for me because the end imperfections such as overcuts bug the heck out of me. Mat board is not cheap either. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. But if you aren't a type-A nut, then go for it! I also don't cut my own hair.
Why let the pros have all the fun? Cutting mats is a precise craft, and certainly someone who does it several hours a day is better at it than I am. However, I find mat-cutting and framing to be a relaxing activity, and I get a lot of satisfaction from it (as with many other DIYs). Plus, I can easily switch prints into different size frames/different color mats, thus saving me the agony of deciding on the perfect mat/frame combo for a particular print.
Yeah Amkane! Everything you said is spot on! I am a professional framer, and we do take a lot of pride in our work! The above art piece would look outstanding with a warmer tone mat ( and floated like mentioned above) and a black frame. If it is something you love and value, a good framer can make all of the difference.
I have never had an issue getting my art framed at Michael's, but maybe I just have a particularly good framing department at my local store. I always wait for a good coupon and never feel that I'm paying too much.
Thank you for the post!
I've really loved owning my own mat cutter. It has definitely saved me money, which has allowed me to do more framing and really have fun with it.
At art stores like Dick Blick, you can get frame segments to make your own custom sizes if needed. They also have sheets of acetate that you can score and snap to fit into custom-sized frames -- it's definitely cheaper than having glazing cut by a pro, and honestly it looks the same as glass.
If I find a cool frame at a thrift store, I love that I can DIY the glazing, mat, and backing myself. I've made some awesome gifts that would have been cost-prohibitive if I had taken them to a pro. It's also so fun watching a piece of art (or ever just a postcard) be transformed and elevated by framing.
The "custom framing is over-priced" comments are a bit uninformed. Maybe custom framing is out of your price range, but if you ever purchased framing from a professional you can see a great difference between what they do and the frames sold at Ikea.
I would never spend $700 on a pair of Chanel shoes, but that does not mean they are overpriced - they are just more than I can afford, or want to spend. I would however, spend $700 on a painting. To each his own.
I think so many people are used to cheaply made junk from China, that they have a hard time appreciating what goes into any custom-made product; whether it be clothing, furniture, jewelry or frames. Remember, these custom-made items are not mass produced in a factory by someone making $15 a day. They are made just for you, to your exact specifications with high quality materials by professionals who have studied and perfected their craft over a number of years. They are made one-at-a-time. They are special and unique and made just for you. There is a lot more to them than you might realize.
Thrifting and Ikea are fine. But just as I don't want a house full of Ikea, nor can I afford a house full of vintage Danish masterpieces - I don't want all of my art framed on the cheap. Some pieces are fine in a store-bought frame, others, like the oil paintings my grandmother painted deserve a little better.
I purchased a $200 mat cutter from a craft store (cheaper with a coupon) and my mats are perfect. It was expensive, but I like photos and artwork and so it will pay for itself in the long run. I also cut mats for my friends. The cutter is super easy to use - I practiced on the first mat and by the time I moved onto the second one, it was perfect... definitely professional quality. If this is something you really want to do, go on amazon.com and read all the reviews there. That's what I did and they were super helpful.
I've used FramesByMail, AmericanFrames and PictureFrames.com quite a bit and they really are far cheaper than going to a regular frame shop and I've been very happy with the results. If you already have a frame, you can order just a mat from PictureFrames.com which is pretty convenient.
Tara, I've had problems with certain frame types from FramesByMail, particularly the cheaper black plain ones. In general, the wood ones are much more dependable, but they often aren't perfectly aligned. For the price, this is usually something that doesn't bother me too much. For nicks and scratches and damaged plexi, I've emailed them photos and they've always sent me replacements without a charge.
For nicer pieces of art and for photography, I hate the plexi these online places offe. None of the major websites sell glass because it so often cracks in shipping. What I've learned to do is to try to find antique frames, buy the glass locally and order the mat online. Or sometimes I order the frame and mat online, and buy the glass myself.
Whatever combo you do, it's always much less expensive than a local frame shop. Particularly if you're framing something that didn't cost you much in the first place. And I have tried to cut mats myself. I'll never make that mistake again!
If you aren't too picky about the look, just freehand it with an exacto. I did that here for a watercolor that is only seen from a bit of a distance and didn't have to shell out for a mat cutter. I told myself that I'd go back and try again or get something professional done at some point, but it took this post to remind me of that! If the photo of the AT project was taken from a distance the mat might not appear as offensive to some. Basically, I would consider where you plan to put it and invest accordingly.
I've actually been looking into how to cut our own matting, my husband has a ton of sports memorabilia, especially signed photos or index cards that we've been trying to display that come in odd sizes. I do love to "DIY" but I have to agree that the over cut is totally noticeable to me. Maybe something that is larger and you don't need to see close up... But this would absolutely not work for the stuff we would want to frame in matting.
THIS IS VERY DIFFICULT TO DO YOURSELF. The over-cuts are extremely noticeable and impossible to avoid. Our tip for budget framing (as a few have already mentioned): head into your local craft store, such as Hobby Lobby or Michael's, and get a mat cut to your specifications. A plain mat with custom cuts is less than $10! You will go through multiple mats GUARANTEED if you try this yourself at home. It's much more economical (and professional looking) to let someone with the right equipment and know-how do it for you!
I'm surprised AT's example has such blatant overcuts. I've had satisfactory results with Logan's Team system which consistes of the bar and cutter. I also use Dragnonphyer's technique of using an X-acto knife for last little tiniest cut to release the corner.
More than anything, patience is required; first, for safety and second to avoid making a crappy looking mat = waste. The AT example would have been ok with one overcut solely to show what to avoid, but two; nuh uh.
My etching "Path" looks wonderful matted and framed. Thanks for using my work for matting demo... great info! Elvia Perrin
First, I would never have used that photo with massive over cuts for my article. Do it over until it's done right.Good enough, is never good enough in this situation.
Over the decades I have cut thousands of mats, in the beginning I used a utility knife. In school, I was lucky enough to have access to a C&H rail cutter. Over the years, in my professional and personal, I have made the best friends in the world - - local professional picture framers.
One place I would NEVER send any of my clients, even ones I don't like, is to a place like Michael's or Hobby Lobby. First, they are over priced (which is why they have a sale every other week). What I have found is that neighborhood framers (yeah, those "expensive" guys) are actually day-in and day-out cheaper than what you will get with a stupid coupon.
Most framers have a lot of "scrap" mat board. If your project is small, it can probably come out of that. As for bringing your own mat board to have them cut - - do you bring your own food to a restaurant to have them cook it? Just don't.
On-line.... great if you love it. But do you know for sure that you got a rag or alpha-cellulose mat that protects your photo - - instead of a paper mat with acid that will burn you mat over time? I didn't think so. Sometimes, the "good deal" is the "worst deal".
The best deal you can ever make, is with a professional framer. They work hard, and study the best practices to protect your art, and make it look great - - instead of cheap IKEA white mat and black frame.
Find old frames if you are on a budget, by all means. Then take it to a pro. Use a darker mat than your art, and pay the extra (it isn't much over the next 20 years) for a UV filtering glass. Have them professionally fit it for you.
Save your DIY time and skills for something that is really expensive - - like growing your own food, making your own furniture and performing your own surgery on your appendix.
Renterforever- AGREED! I stopped reading comments after yours because of the just nit picky, and sorry, snotty, comments I'd read above. Reminds me of those grammer nazis or spelling nazis that sit around leaving epic novels of comments berating someone on their errors in a post or comment. But thanx to the people that while giving their opinions also had constructive advice. Oh, and pretty much everyone's mattes were crap in art school anyway. But I digress...
Thank you for this post- even if things aren't "perfect" this is still helpful for those of us that want to do something on a rainy day (I will be using that weighting tip tho, I forgot all about that from school). And yes, if you don't have the time go to a Hobby Lobby or whatever crafty store in your area- they aren't always cheap at all, but they are a hell of a lot cheaper than online most times.
You perfectionists just keep going to your pros, more power to you, but there is no reason to be mean about it. (I feel like I'm explaining something to my 2 yr old, sheesh.).
OK, couple of things.
1. It IS possible to cut decent mats yourself. It is. You need good equipment and some practice, but it can be done. It might never be as perfect as the pros' work, but you can get pretty good at it.
2. If you have a mat cutter system---not just the knife thing but also the straightedge and gauge---you can frame a lot of things that you probably think aren't worth paying a pro to do. This is worth it just for the FUN! It's creative, it's fun, and you end up with lots of nice things to hang on your wall that aren't from Bed, Bath & Beyond's "wall art" department.
I did this years ago with an Alto EZ Mat Cutter system that I got used. Retail price is $120 or so. They are easy to use and I have had very few screwups, believe it or not. I've cut over a hundred mats at this point. I buy acid-free matboard from the craft shops, often scrap pieces that they cut from the inside of big mats. I frame small drawings and watercolors by friends and family, greeting cards, MANY photos, posters, pretty calendar pages---whatever I like, because it's CHEAP AND FUN.
I've bought used frames, frames on sale at craft stores, frames at IKEA, frames wherever I find them. It helps that I prefer simple frames, especially narrow black ones. it's not that hard to find an affordable ready-made frame to fit a given piece of art and then just do your custom mat.
It's do-able, people.
Hey--your link to the mat cutter doesn't work!