I'm always on the lookout for trees that are interesting yet appropriate for my small urban garden. Not every tree thrives by having their roots crammed into a tight space or container. Instead of making an impulse buy — only to see your latest find in a sad state of disarray months down the road — it's always wise to do a little research. Here are a few suggestions that are perfect candidates for confined spaces.
Japanese Umbrella Pine - I bought one of these beauties last year, after numerous trips to my neighborhood garden center, I finally decided to spring for it. While it's not a true pine, what sets this apart for me is that it's almost just as striking in the winter as it is during the growing season. The Umbrella Pine is a compact slow-grower, with shiny dark green needles that form a pyramid shape. It prefers sun over shade, morning sun being the most ideal, and does best in moist-acidic soil. For the dwarf variety, you can expect it to grow about 3 feet over 10 years.
Dwarf or Semi-Dwarf Crape Myrtle - It's a gem seen often in Southern gardens, known for it's frilly flowers that range from pink and red to lavender and white with a long bloom-time. But honestly, I love it even more for its green to silver peeling bark. Crape Myrtles also produce a brilliant fall foliage, they're highly disease resistant, drought-tolerant after established and grow from 3-15 feet tall depending on your variety. Crape Myrtles produce the most flowers when they are located in full sun exposure with proper air circulation.
Japanese Maples - I acquired one of these lovely trees last year, granted it wasn't cheap! There are many varieties out there to choose from, mine is a Dwarf Virdis Laceleaf Japanese Maple. This variation has green lace leaves that turn yellow and orange in the fall before they drop off for the winter, with an average height of about 4-6 feet tall. As with most maple cultivars, it prefers moist but well-drained soil and while it likes the sun, it's best to give it some shade in the afternoon to avoid damaging its leaves.
Flowering Dogwoods - My grandmother, an avid gardener, is a big fan of the Dogwood tree. Not surprising since she's fond of the colonial garden style and after all, they are the Virginia state flower and tree. When I asked her opinion on what tree she would recommend for my urban garden, the Dogwood made it to the top of her list. She said, "you can't beat it for its showy flowers and I love it even more because it's not a messy tree", (unlike her gorgeous, but enormous Magnolia Tulip tree). Dogwoods grow to an average height of 15 to 25 feet and provide interest in all seasons, starting out with flowering in early spring to deep-green foliage in the summer. During fall it turns to purple-red foliage with bright red berries that aren't actually berries but small clusters of fruit called drupes. The fruit will attract a variety of birds and the texture of the bark provides an interesting winter backdrop. The Dogwood loves moist, fertile slightly acidic soil and prefers a semi-shaded area. If you plant them in full sun or deep shade they will have a harder time producing flowers.
Fig Tree - If you're interested in a small space tree that can also produce fruit, I highly suggest taking a look at the Fig Tree. Ever since a friend showed me hers, one she planted in a large container a few years ago, I've been intrigued. And why not? Edible fruit, what's not to love? Fig trees grown in a properly sized container can produce just as much fruit as those grown in the ground, but they do require slightly more care such as fertilizer, lime and water. It's also wise to repot your tree every year or so, going up only a size or two in containers, but make sure this is done during the dormant season. Take a look at this post from the Kitchn for information on the Chicago Hardy Fig.
As always, when purchasing any plant, make sure you know your zone requirements to determine if the tree is suitable to your growing climate.
(Images: 1, George Weigel; 2, GardenWeb; 3, Kimber Watson; 4, Better Homes and Gardens; 5, Joanna Miller and Logee's via theKitchn)
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I'm not so sure about the umbrella pine.....maybe in a regular garden or a big container. I had one on my terrace that actually got to about 10' (it started at about 4') within six years of being planted....finally had to cut it down because it was too large to fit in the freight elevator and planted in the building's garden.
Japanese Umbrella Pine can reach 30' tall and 15' wide, just like any typical pine. It is a slow grower, but I still wouldn't plant it close to any structure or in a small space. I AM totally in love with this tree now though, and plan on scouting a nice spot for one in my yard this weekend. So thanks!
Just ordered the fig tree, didn't know there was a cold-hardy fig out there!
I'm bummed to see the major error on the umbrella pine. These things are so easy to check.
Maybe she meant the dependably restrained Mugo Pine? There is even a dwarf strain of Mugo that is used for bonsai. Plant a Mugo Pine next to a Japanese stone lantern, add a small Japanese maple with a cascading growth pattern, a few well-placed rocks, and you have an a big garden in a small space. Snow on a Mugo is a thing of beauty.
That brings me to the entry on Japanese maples. Your laceleaf is not, technically, a "variety" but a selection. Japanese maples cross breed endlessly, which is why new selections appear constantly and why when you purchase a named selection (rather than an unnamed cultivar or a species tree) it will be grafted to root stock.
Japanese maples are understory trees that require protection from afternoon sun (with the exception of a few larger, upright selections like Emporer One, Bloodgood, Sangokaku coral bark, and a few others). Laceleafs are the least sun tolerant and should be sheltered from direct exposure. Their leaves have so little surface area, they fry in the sun.
No Japanese maple likes the wind, which can be an issue in urban settings, so think "shelter" when placing your trees. They neither need nor enjoy constantly wet soil, but they must be watered frequently because most of their roots are in the top few inches of soil.
Potted maples should be unpotted and root pruned, if they are not potted on, every two or three years depending on growth. If you use liquid fertilizer, dilute to half strength to avoid leaf burn. They do best in a pot that is wider than tall.
Japanese maples are my thing. I like to see them treated right.
Rural and Rueful (I love that handle!) wrote:
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Japanese maples are understory trees that require protection from afternoon sun (with the exception of a few larger, upright selections like Emporer One, Bloodgood, Sangokaku coral bark, and a few others). Laceleafs are the least sun tolerant and should be sheltered from direct exposure. Their leaves have so little surface area, they fry in the sun.
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While this is correct and stated basically anywhere, my own experience is different.
I have a Bloodgood Japanese maple, and my neighbours on each side have one, too. They are growing in our front yard, will full sun exposure all day long. They survive amazingly. I have a total of 5 Japanese maples, Bloodgood and Inaba Shidare at the front (where the sun is beating down mercilessly) and a Viridis, Crimson Queen and another Bloodgood in the back yard.
The Viridis and the Crimson Queen (this one is my only potted JP) have almost the same sun exposure as the trees in the front yard (both get a bit of shade in late afternoon but in grande scheme of things, the amount of shade is minimal). The Bloodgood in the back yard has the most amount of shade and it is my worst performing Japanese maple. So go figure.
I also find that the red lace leaf varieties, like the Inaba Shidare and the Crimson Queen, tend to lose the reddish colour when in shade and the leaves are more or less green. The more sun the more red the leaves are.
The prices of Japanese maples go down each year. I have a small fortune invested in them but I just had to have them. :-)
I had to fight an urge to purge a small Viridis just yesterday, a small one, in a pot, for $49.99. Then I reminded myself that I have no more space so I left it where I saw it.
M
Interesting -- while my umbrella pine overtook the terrace...my Japanese Maple has done incredibly well -- even with a lot of sun in NYC.....go figure.
To Rural and Rueful -- my umbrella pine was put in by a professional gardener....I had to let them go because they weren't as good on maintenance as they were on installation....maybe if the pine got a regular root pruning it wouldn't have gotten so tall.
That should have read Dwarf Japanese Umbrella Pine, thanks for the correction all you gardeners :) They are perfectly suited for for small yards and even containers. You can expect it to grow about 3 feet over 10 years, although the dwarf variety might be a little harder to source!