How to Soundproof a Ceiling (So You Can Still Like Your Upstairs Neighbors)

Whether you live in a standalone house or an apartment complex, soundproofing your space so that you can sleep, concentrate, or simply relax is paramount. After all, no one wants to hear their upstairs neighbor hurling through a cardio routine or fall asleep to the sounds of their spouse’s favorite action movie pounding through the basement. Luckily, soundproofing your ceiling isn’t as intimidating as it may sound.

Depending on the style of ceilings in your space — and the type of sound leakages you’re experiencing — reducing noise could even be a DIY project. The good news? Whether you own a condo or are renting a home, you can make structural and non-construction changes that help cut down on noise pollution. Whether you’re plagued by heavy footfalls, crystal-clear conversations, or a wailing infant, here’s the step-by-step guide on how to soundproof your ceiling and relieve your eardrums.

If you own your space — whether that’s a house, townhome, or condo — you can permanently ban noise from your rooms. While some areas can do without soundproofing, such as a bathroom or dining room, other sections need to be kept quiet. Here are a few permanent ways for homeowners to add noise control.

Before diving into this project, you need to figure out what you’re working with — and that means determining what kinds of sounds you hear. Ceiling soundproofing is designed to cut down on two types of noise: impact and airborne.

Impact noise is a sound like footsteps or a chair dragging across the floor in the apartment above you, says Yanky Drew, the CEO of Trademark Soundproofing. Sound waves travel through the structure itself, reverberating down to you.

Airborne noise would be things like voices or music, and it travels in waves, moving through open spaces within the structure. The final type of sound is flanking noise, which typically comes from the outdoor environment and won’t be helped much by ceiling soundproofing.

Soundproofing your ceiling will cut down slightly on impact noises from above, Drew advises. Still, it’s better for airborne noise, so he recommends it for folks who are looking specifically for “more privacy and a quieter environment.”

Once you’re confident that what you’re hearing is airborne or impact noise, you’ll need to figure out what type of ceilings you have. The two types are standard drywall, an open expanse of smooth material, or suspended, which are also called drop ceilings. Suspended ceilings are made of framed-out tiles and are usually installed to hide ductwork or plumbing.

Because drop ceilings already have extra space for noises to bounce around, they tend to be more challenging to soundproof than drywall ceilings — but not impossible.

Soundproofing is the type of project that can expand to fit any guidelines you give it, so take a moment before getting started to consider how much you want to take on (read: whether you’re able and willing to remove your existing ceiling to make modifications, or whether soundproofing your existing ceiling is the move).

“Speaking to an expert pre-construction can save you a lot of aggravation and money,” says Drew, and Kreutzjans concurs: “The best advice I would give DIYers is to do your research on the products you are buying and understand the project at hand before diving in,” Kreutzjans says.

Four main factors can help disrupt sounds on their way to your ears. To notice any sound reduction, you’ll likely need to combine multiple elements, and the most effective methods will utilize all four. Here’s what they are and how each works.

Decoupling is separating elements within your ceiling to disrupt the travel of soundwaves through the structure to cut down on impact noise. Drop ceilings are already decoupled by design, but drywall ceilings will require a construction project.

Absorption is filling an open area with a low-density material like fiberglass, mineral wood, or foam designed to soak up airborne noise. This step is especially crucial for drop ceilings.

Mass is adding another layer of material for airborne sounds to pass through before they make it to you, like an additional sheet or two of drywall.

Damping is applying a chemical compound that can dissipate sounds into heat energy. 

If your soundproofing project needs to stay small and budget-friendly, adding mass in the form of drywall is the way to go. A single layer of drywall will help a bit, but do a double layer if you can — ideally in conjunction with a damping compound. Green Glue is one popular option.

Kreutzjans recommends sandwiching one layer of a vinyl dampener, like Auralex’s SheetBlok, between two layers of drywall for the best low-cost results. At the same time, Drew notes that barriers like mass-loaded vinyl are worth their weight in gold.

Of course, if you’re in a rental situation, you probably don’t have the freedom to add drywall or a permanent chemical compound. “Because renters can’t make major modifications, the best approach is adding mass and absorption to reduce airborne noise,” says John Parks, co-owner of Advanced Insulation System. Here are a few of the renter-friendly solutions Parks and a few other experts recommend.

“Stick-on acoustic panels (like fabric-wrapped foam or fiberglass panels) can absorb sound and reduce echo,” says Parks. Not only are these panels lightweight, but they are easy to install and can be removed without damaging ceilings and walls. 

If the ceiling is made of tiles, such as with a drop ceiling, Tyler Hadley, the marketing director for DDS Acoustical Specialties, suggests purchasing tile covers that are designed to muffle noise. “Ceiling tile covers are a product that sandwiches a mass-loaded vinyl noise barrier between layers of fiberglass and are made to the size of your ceiling tile,” says Hadley. Installing tile covers is simple — all you have to do is get above the drop ceiling and lay the covers on top of existing tiles.

Often referred to as MLV, hanging mass-loaded vinyl barriers help to add mass while blocking sound waves. Parks adds, “While more effective with drywall layers, renters can suspend it with tension rods or ceiling-mounted curtain tracks to avoid permanent alterations.”

The more layers sound waves have to travel through, the more it’s muffled. That’s why adding thick curtains or noise-absorbing fabric can help muffle footsteps, voices, and loud TVs. Parks says high ceilings can often amplify noise as it bounces around, so cloth can help reduce reverberations. 

While this isn’t a ceiling treatment, adding soft things — pillows, upholstered furniture, and rugs — helps to absorb noise. Parks also recommends staging bookcases beneath the source of the noise, which “helps dampen reflections and reduce noise transfer within a space,” he says. 

Although it can be intimidating to talk to your upstairs neighbor, especially if you’ve never met them before, a quick chat may help the situation — and it’s free. “Sometimes they don’t realize how loud they are being, so talking to them can resolve all or most of that problem,” advises Adam Hamilton, the CEO of REI Hub. They can add rugs if they don’t have them already.

As with any home project, there are a lot of factors that impact the cost of soundproofing. “It really depends on the square footage of the ceiling and the technique being utilized,” advises Hadley. For example, if you choose to add drywall with MLV to the ceiling, it will cost around $3 to $4 per square foot. 

Noise barrier ceiling tile covers are approximately $40 each for a 2’ square tile, or $75 per tile for a 2’x4’ tile, so you can measure and count your tiles to calculate an approximate cost. Hadley also says that hiring a professional would depend on the scope of the project you have in mind.