Learn the Parts of a Toilet, and You’ll Save So Much Money on Easy Repairs

It can be pretty inconvenient when things aren’t functioning correctly in your home. And while you can probably get away for a few days with a drippy faucet or nonfunctional light fixture, having a toilet on the fritz can be a serious setback — and a downright gross one, at that. While some fixes require a plumber, such as a cracked bowl or gurgling sounds when flushing, other issues are surprisingly easy to fix. But to do that, you have to know your toilet parts.

If that sounds intimidating, don’t stress: Toilets are remarkably similar to each other, and these fixtures are a whole lot less complex than they might seem. Beyond just fixing your toilet when it’s broken, being familiar with toilet parts can make it easy to do routine maintenance that you might have otherwise paid a pro for. In other words, learning the parts of your toilet can help you save money! Here’s your guide on the basic parts of a toilet and how to care for them so you don’t have to deal with the unexpected.

Before I get to the inner toilet components and how they help flush, it’s necessary to have a quick overview of what’s on the outside. Nate Hudelson, a master plumber at Schlueter Plumbing in Cincinnati, simplifies it into two main parts. “Toilets consist of two major components: the upper part, which we call the tank, and the lower part, where deposits are made, which we call the bowl,” he says. Here’s what you’ll find on the outside of a toilet.

The tank is essentially the upper part of the toilet, which is also behind you when you take a seat. “This is the back part of the toilet that holds water used for flushing,” says Michael Wood, who works with the United Kingdom heating and plumbing company Rightio. You shouldn’t have to replace your toilet tank unless it gets cracked. The lid may get damaged at some point, but it typically comes separately and is simple to replace. 

The toilet bowl is one of the most essential parts — with the most unseemly duties. “It’s where you sit when using the toilet,” says Wood. “This is the round part of the toilet that holds water and waste.” Like the toilet tank, the bowl should last. Replacement is only necessary if it gets broken or fractured.

The toilet bowl is where you’ll be working if you ever need to unclog a toilet.

While you could sit on the bowl itself, the toilet seat makes the entire experience more comfortable. According to Wood, the seat is usually made of plastic or wood, and you shouldn’t need to replace it more than every five to seven years, depending on the construction and whether the seat shows signs of wear, staining, or damage. And — sorry, if you’re already squeamish about toilets — the seat attracts germs and bacteria over time. “A new seat ensures better sanitation and reduces the risk of bacterial growth,” says Wood. The good news is that replacing a seat is an easy DIY that you can perform with a screwdriver.

Although the handle is on the outside, it’s the mechanism that has a lot of control over the tank’s inner workings. Depending on your toilet’s design, the handle can be a simple lever or a set of buttons on the tank’s front, side, or top. “Pushing the handle sends stored water from the tank rushing into the bowl to carry waste down the sewer,” says Wood. The handle may come loose and need tightening, but it’s also a sturdy toilet part that you shouldn’t have to replace.

The shutoff valve below your tank cuts off the water supply. “The shutoff valve at the wall should be tested somewhat regularly, just to make sure it will work in an emergency,” says Roy Barnes, who co-owns Service Force Plumbing in Maryland with master plumber Hendrik Vandepoll. If you need to replace the valve, Barnes recommends a 1/4-turn valve rather than a screw valve, as the 1/4-turn is easier to close in case of an overflow situation.

When you open the toilet tank, you should see a round, plastic plunger on the bottom called the flapper or flap valve. Its purpose is to open and allow the tank to refill with water. “The flapper on your toilet is the most inexpensive part, but it can also be the most expensive,” says Hendrik Vandepoll, co-owner of Service Force Plumbing. Over time, chlorinated water will harden the rubber, causing the flap to stop sealing, resulting in a running toilet and an inflated water bill. 

Sometimes called a lift wire, the toilet chain attaches the handle to the flapper so that the inner parts can respond to pressure from the toilet handle. Hudelson says you “lift the toilet flapper to release water into the toilet bowl.” The chain can snag, detach, or break, but adjusting or replacing it is an easy DIY task. Because the chain is metal, it will rust over time and must be changed more frequently.

As you look inside the tank, you should see the fill valve. “This is the part typically on the left that lets water enter the tank and should shut the water off when the tank is full,” says Hudelson. According to Vandepoll, the fill valve’s rubber diaphragm can also harden and fail over time, so keep an eye on it to ensure the rubber is still pliable. Replacement usually involves a professional.

Inside the tank, the flush valve is hard to miss. “This is the big thing in the center of the tank that lets the water out in a measured fashion and typically has a flapper to do so,” says Hudelson. Your flush valve should function properly for at least five to seven years.

The overflow tube is a safety mechanism that prevents the water from overfilling the tank and spilling over, which could damage the floor. A toilet tank that isn’t maintaining a proper water level may require a new overflow tube.

The refill tube connects the fill valve to the overflow tube and helps to refill the toilet bowl after flushing. “If the refill tube is damaged or misaligned, it may need to be replaced to ensure proper water flow,” says Wood. Thankfully, you can easily swap or adjust it if misaligned or damaged.

Have you ever wondered what the hollow, bulbous thing was inside your toilet tank? It’s the float, which helps control the tank’s water level to keep it from overfilling. The float does precisely that: It floats up and down with the water line as the tank empties and refills. Once the float reaches the proper level, the attached valve will cut off the water supply. Replacing your float every three to five years is recommended.

Also known as a tank O-ring seal, this tank-to-bowl gasket connects the two main toilet parts. “The gasket between the tank and the bowl is made of a rubberized foam that can fail over time,” says Barnes. “So if you see wetness below that connection, it is likely time to change the gasket out.” It’s best to call a professional plumber to do so.

A floor flange works with the wax seal (or wax ring) to secure the water pipes to the floor. “Finally, the wax ring that seals the toilet at the floor can wear out over time, especially if the toilet starts rocking a little bit,” says Vandepoll. If a leaky seal goes unnoticed, the subfloor can deteriorate or grow mold, and any leakage in this area requires a plumber’s help.